maaaslo

this lacquer is good to impregnate the printed pages with, after the print. to stabilise the ink used. just spray over using either airbrush, or you could brush it over in thin layer...
 

ahem
http://www.papirove-modely.cz/velkynahled/173530
this here, my friend, is a part of cockpit of the arado plane, from bismarck. and there are parts even smaller. the red "thing" next to it, is a painted tic-tac candy. there are a-a guns that are made off like 20 parts, most of them are too small to grab in your hand.
picture is a courtesy of Martanek411, who is building Bismarck, yamato, Tirpitz, scharnhorst and hood at the same time. what can i say, masochist at the least...
 

ahem
http://www.papirove-modely.cz/velkynahled/173530
this here, my friend, is a part of cockpit of the arado plane, from bismarck. and there are parts even smaller. the red "thing" next to it, is a painted tic-tac candy. there are a-a guns that are made off like 20 parts, most of them are too small to grab in your hand.
picture is a courtesy of Martanek411, who is building Bismarck, yamato, Tirpitz, scharnhorst and hood at the same time. what can i say, masochist at the least...
 

this lacquer is good to impregnate the printed pages with, after the print. to stabilise the ink used. just spray over using either airbrush, or you could brush it over in thin layer...
 

this lacquer is good to impregnate the printed pages with, after the print. to stabilise the ink used. just spray over using either airbrush, or you could brush it over in thin layer...
 

ahem
http://www.papirove-modely.cz/velkynahled/173530
this here, my friend, is a part of cockpit of the arado plane, from bismarck. and there are parts even smaller. the red "thing" next to it, is a painted tic-tac candy. there are a-a guns that are made off like 20 parts, most of them are too small to grab in your hand.
picture is a courtesy of Martanek411, who is building Bismarck, yamato, Tirpitz, scharnhorst and hood at the same time. what can i say, masochist at the least...
 

Hello, olla, ahoy friends and collegues.
i think the time just come, that even i create a thread with my work. Not that there is much to show, hehe...
i am building Hms victory, as title of the thread would also tell you.
by no means i build with much of, what you would call skill, its just mere attempt to finish off what i started as a slightly younger enthusiastic modeller with no clue.
i have already described my attempts at building this ship elswhere on this great forum. For those who did not catch it, it whas where i described it as a kit for learning (that for learning what i can and cannot do) and that it is sodomised. The latter i still stand for. In the pictures you will see, why i say so.

my appologies for the choice of surrounding for the pictures. My and the admiral we live in a small flat and i dont have a dedicated workshop.
for those building the same model, i am on issue 69, building and fitting out fore mast.
 

The gallery sits on slightly out of allignement. Nothing i can do now, and i have learned my lesson. Next one will be built a lot better.

You can see, i had to use a lot of filler. It does not bother me, first planking job. Because of that, i had to settle for painting, to cover the botched job.

Also, i dont think this was entirely my fault, but bow looks different to what it should. I have faired it to the point where all the planks were sitting flat. Maybe i over did it... 

Main mast was done according to the instruction, which are btw very, very detailed. Just not correct. Very schematic and simplified.


Main yard. Instruction called for twisting the wire into coil and attach it to the yard. I hate the way it look and will re do it using just thread. Should i stiffen the thread using ca glue or pva?



I tried to imitate the cannon tackles. Looks so bad... good thing is it wont be visible. Those blocks are just way too big for the
scale.

Also, i have not had bees wax just yet, when i finished the railings, thats why the line looks so not hanging much...

I will take any criticism, altough its too late to fix much of it. For encouragement i thank you in advance.
next update will be after the finished fore mast fitting out.
one question: what kind of primer to use on hull? I know car primer, but which one?

Hello, olla, ahoy friends and collegues.
i think the time just come, that even i create a thread with my work. Not that there is much to show, hehe...
i am building Hms victory, as title of the thread would also tell you.
by no means i build with much of, what you would call skill, its just mere attempt to finish off what i started as a slightly younger enthusiastic modeller with no clue.
i have already described my attempts at building this ship elswhere on this great forum. For those who did not catch it, it whas where i described it as a kit for learning (that for learning what i can and cannot do) and that it is sodomised. The latter i still stand for. In the pictures you will see, why i say so.

my appologies for the choice of surrounding for the pictures. My and the admiral we live in a small flat and i dont have a dedicated workshop.
for those building the same model, i am on issue 69, building and fitting out fore mast.
 

The gallery sits on slightly out of allignement. Nothing i can do now, and i have learned my lesson. Next one will be built a lot better.

You can see, i had to use a lot of filler. It does not bother me, first planking job. Because of that, i had to settle for painting, to cover the botched job.

Also, i dont think this was entirely my fault, but bow looks different to what it should. I have faired it to the point where all the planks were sitting flat. Maybe i over did it... 

Main mast was done according to the instruction, which are btw very, very detailed. Just not correct. Very schematic and simplified.


Main yard. Instruction called for twisting the wire into coil and attach it to the yard. I hate the way it look and will re do it using just thread. Should i stiffen the thread using ca glue or pva?



I tried to imitate the cannon tackles. Looks so bad... good thing is it wont be visible. Those blocks are just way too big for the
scale.

Also, i have not had bees wax just yet, when i finished the railings, thats why the line looks so not hanging much...

I will take any criticism, altough its too late to fix much of it. For encouragement i thank you in advance.
next update will be after the finished fore mast fitting out.
one question: what kind of primer to use on hull? I know car primer, but which one?

Hello, olla, ahoy friends and collegues.
i think the time just come, that even i create a thread with my work. Not that there is much to show, hehe...
i am building Hms victory, as title of the thread would also tell you.
by no means i build with much of, what you would call skill, its just mere attempt to finish off what i started as a slightly younger enthusiastic modeller with no clue.
i have already described my attempts at building this ship elswhere on this great forum. For those who did not catch it, it whas where i described it as a kit for learning (that for learning what i can and cannot do) and that it is sodomised. The latter i still stand for. In the pictures you will see, why i say so.

my appologies for the choice of surrounding for the pictures. My and the admiral we live in a small flat and i dont have a dedicated workshop.
for those building the same model, i am on issue 69, building and fitting out fore mast.
 

The gallery sits on slightly out of allignement. Nothing i can do now, and i have learned my lesson. Next one will be built a lot better.

You can see, i had to use a lot of filler. It does not bother me, first planking job. Because of that, i had to settle for painting, to cover the botched job.

Also, i dont think this was entirely my fault, but bow looks different to what it should. I have faired it to the point where all the planks were sitting flat. Maybe i over did it... 

Main mast was done according to the instruction, which are btw very, very detailed. Just not correct. Very schematic and simplified.


Main yard. Instruction called for twisting the wire into coil and attach it to the yard. I hate the way it look and will re do it using just thread. Should i stiffen the thread using ca glue or pva?



I tried to imitate the cannon tackles. Looks so bad... good thing is it wont be visible. Those blocks are just way too big for the
scale.

Also, i have not had bees wax just yet, when i finished the railings, thats why the line looks so not hanging much...

I will take any criticism, altough its too late to fix much of it. For encouragement i thank you in advance.
next update will be after the finished fore mast fitting out.
one question: what kind of primer to use on hull? I know car primer, but which one?

it was just an example. to stabilize the print, paper modellers especially in Poland, use nitrocellulose's lacquer. i only did quick research and frankly did not read what it does or the description. the one i found you is being used for fixing up guitars. maybe they sell similar product at your side of the pond. but clear and matte, without aging. i don't know what would it be marketed under in there...

you might meant 1:100. otherwise, i don't think you have been building a boat. more like a city... just a pun...

you might meant 1:100. otherwise, i don't think you have been building a boat. more like a city... just a pun...

Cut the tab off and glue edge to edge...
 

Is that ink or laser printing? You can stabilise the print using either hairspray or 
http://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/clear-satin-nitrocellulose-guitar-paint-lacquer-aerosol-400ml/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9YTJBRD0vKClruOsuOwBEiQAGkQjP4cYfBrgkOQWTuieve3tFV5h_drl3leh0JehAJo0YvQaAlBQ8P8HAQ
 
(just an example)
Also, and i kid you not, you could literally lick the part you want to roll and then roll it. By wetting the paper, you give it a lot better  roll. Also i dont know if you noticed, but if you wet the paper, you could also peel a layer of, thus making it thinner and easily rollable.

my apologies, i should really correct myself.
these engraving tools are not being used for cutting out small circular parts, they rather use them to make rivets. small rivets with rounded head. you could use that to enhance your casemates and other parts of the ship. for cutting out small circular parts the use technique of placing just a tip of scalpel (x-acto blade) and going around the diameter of the part. like stabbing the paper. in the end you end up semi-circular cut-out of rather ruff edge, but since the parts are mainly small, you cannot see the difference. i just realised that my vocabulary is still not good enough, i sound like a foreigner...
also, paper modellers do not use any kind of markers to touch up edges. rather try to use semi-dry paintbrush dipped in acrylic or other paint of your choice. just like dry brushing. marker tends to change the colour after some time. i had some level of success using just colour pencils. paper modeling is rather cheap, but to get to the result Doris or firdajan shows, it takes a loooong time... i have made a few hulls of hms Cleopatra from shipyard ( i think 4 in total) and three of them flew to the bin. the last one is done to such level i am happy with it. i had to put it aside as life got in a way, but am contemplating on the idea of resurrecting it. if you need more help or info, i am happy to help. firdajan might be willing too. on our papermodelers.sk forum, we have a thread where the basic tools and techniques are described. if there would be demand, i could try to translate.

Couple of points:
did you check the dimensions of printout of the model against the file you printed from? Some printers do change dimensions just by a fraction, enough to ruin your work...(learned that a long time ago)
you heard of tabs? Lot easier to glue larger portions to the deck than creating a thick base on the deck- risk of warping the deck as you are using moist glue (paper+moisture=disaster).
you mentioned yamato, bismarck... as a second pper model, i would aim slightly lower... perhaps these would be a good way of learning the skills needed to build yamato... http://digitalnavy.com/downloads.html
paper modelers do glue their parts on thicker card. This allows them to stiffen the parts, especially the structurally important parts like formers and decks. Use white glue, on the card(not on the part printout) and let it dry on flat surface under a lot of weight.
small parts and fittings can be soaked in superglue. this way you can avoid paper from sepparating itself into layers.
for cutting out small diameter circles, guys in our slovak forum came with ingenious trick- they use jewelers engraving tools to do so http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Swiss-Set-Of-23-Grain-Tools-Plus---Handle-prcode-999-2355
ideal to cut out those tiny rivet heads.
also get a compass cutter -
very handy when you need to cut a perfect circle.

my apologies, i should really correct myself.
these engraving tools are not being used for cutting out small circular parts, they rather use them to make rivets. small rivets with rounded head. you could use that to enhance your casemates and other parts of the ship. for cutting out small circular parts the use technique of placing just a tip of scalpel (x-acto blade) and going around the diameter of the part. like stabbing the paper. in the end you end up semi-circular cut-out of rather ruff edge, but since the parts are mainly small, you cannot see the difference. i just realised that my vocabulary is still not good enough, i sound like a foreigner...
also, paper modellers do not use any kind of markers to touch up edges. rather try to use semi-dry paintbrush dipped in acrylic or other paint of your choice. just like dry brushing. marker tends to change the colour after some time. i had some level of success using just colour pencils. paper modeling is rather cheap, but to get to the result Doris or firdajan shows, it takes a loooong time... i have made a few hulls of hms Cleopatra from shipyard ( i think 4 in total) and three of them flew to the bin. the last one is done to such level i am happy with it. i had to put it aside as life got in a way, but am contemplating on the idea of resurrecting it. if you need more help or info, i am happy to help. firdajan might be willing too. on our papermodelers.sk forum, we have a thread where the basic tools and techniques are described. if there would be demand, i could try to translate.

Cut the tab off and glue edge to edge...
 

it was just an example. to stabilize the print, paper modellers especially in Poland, use nitrocellulose's lacquer. i only did quick research and frankly did not read what it does or the description. the one i found you is being used for fixing up guitars. maybe they sell similar product at your side of the pond. but clear and matte, without aging. i don't know what would it be marketed under in there...

Cut the tab off and glue edge to edge...
 

Is that ink or laser printing? You can stabilise the print using either hairspray or 
http://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/clear-satin-nitrocellulose-guitar-paint-lacquer-aerosol-400ml/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9YTJBRD0vKClruOsuOwBEiQAGkQjP4cYfBrgkOQWTuieve3tFV5h_drl3leh0JehAJo0YvQaAlBQ8P8HAQ
 
(just an example)
Also, and i kid you not, you could literally lick the part you want to roll and then roll it. By wetting the paper, you give it a lot better  roll. Also i dont know if you noticed, but if you wet the paper, you could also peel a layer of, thus making it thinner and easily rollable.

my apologies, i should really correct myself.
these engraving tools are not being used for cutting out small circular parts, they rather use them to make rivets. small rivets with rounded head. you could use that to enhance your casemates and other parts of the ship. for cutting out small circular parts the use technique of placing just a tip of scalpel (x-acto blade) and going around the diameter of the part. like stabbing the paper. in the end you end up semi-circular cut-out of rather ruff edge, but since the parts are mainly small, you cannot see the difference. i just realised that my vocabulary is still not good enough, i sound like a foreigner...
also, paper modellers do not use any kind of markers to touch up edges. rather try to use semi-dry paintbrush dipped in acrylic or other paint of your choice. just like dry brushing. marker tends to change the colour after some time. i had some level of success using just colour pencils. paper modeling is rather cheap, but to get to the result Doris or firdajan shows, it takes a loooong time... i have made a few hulls of hms Cleopatra from shipyard ( i think 4 in total) and three of them flew to the bin. the last one is done to such level i am happy with it. i had to put it aside as life got in a way, but am contemplating on the idea of resurrecting it. if you need more help or info, i am happy to help. firdajan might be willing too. on our papermodelers.sk forum, we have a thread where the basic tools and techniques are described. if there would be demand, i could try to translate.

Is that ink or laser printing? You can stabilise the print using either hairspray or 
http://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/clear-satin-nitrocellulose-guitar-paint-lacquer-aerosol-400ml/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9YTJBRD0vKClruOsuOwBEiQAGkQjP4cYfBrgkOQWTuieve3tFV5h_drl3leh0JehAJo0YvQaAlBQ8P8HAQ
 
(just an example)
Also, and i kid you not, you could literally lick the part you want to roll and then roll it. By wetting the paper, you give it a lot better  roll. Also i dont know if you noticed, but if you wet the paper, you could also peel a layer of, thus making it thinner and easily rollable.

More tiny rolling. These Ventilators are the smallest ones on the ship - 8mm high by 0.8mm diameter. I was particularly happy with the way the cone turned out, especially as I used the 160gsm paper :
 


 
  Danny

dear Alexey
by no means i wanted replacement parts for free. oh no. i do not need them as i have altered the screw for a slightly larger one, like those used to fit computer hdds. now the attachment being used holds secure.
 

regarding the motor, i have taken a short video. please apologise shaky hands. i had to work camera and controller unit at the same time.
as you can see, no load. i use the same adapter you posted. machine did only work for less than one hour in total during its life. sound does not bother me, as i normally listen to quite a noisy music (industrial noise some call it). it runs relatively smooth, taking into consideration how much the screws are tensioned to hold it together. i would probably have used different pinions collars as i have mentioned in my earlier post as these are rather flimsy and do get thread destroyed quite soon.
IMG_6443.MOV
i would also have a suggestion for a tool to be offered. same as the tool for holding the deadeyes but with two pins forming letter V, for accurately setting the bottom two holes on deadeyes. i know you can use crocodile clip, but i would very much like to avoid marking seized deadeye with marks from the clip.
p.s. i just realised how big the video is (213mb) im sorry for that.