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johncole

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Everything posted by johncole

  1. "In for a penny, in for a pound" Chuck, I'm following this with great interest. I'd also like to be included in the group build if there is still room. Many thanks in advance. John
  2. Tom, Nice build. I have this model in queue for when I'm feeling especially brave (and more skilled). My unsolicited vote for the deck stain is weathered oak. It looks really good to my eyes. John
  3. Shore leave has been cancelled, I'm back to work. I'll post progress as things get done. Next up: Install rat lines John
  4. Here's another good Puritan link: http://america-scoop.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=701:les-photos-de-puritan&catid=67:puritan&Itemid=893〈=en You can scale the parts from the photos. It's not an entirely accurate method, but will give you a nice representation. Hope this helps. John
  5. Thank you Bob and Andy! Yes Andy, bad angle. Looks like I was drinking while installing the mast.. The kit has some (ok, a lot) inaccuracies, and I was able to locate some old pictures online. Mayflower was built immediately following Puritan, so some of her details can be adopted. Study the pictures closely, because these boats changed their sail and furniture setups often. See link: http://www.jsjohnston.org/index.html Also, do a google image search for 'Puritan yacht' I believe there are some bow problems too, the kit likely has the wrong profile. No matter, and I don't
  6. Check out post #1, 6th pic from the top. You'll see the 3/16" sq added under the false deck and between the bulkheads. I'm not sure these were even needed, I just wanted to give the stanchions a bit more to adhere to. I had to take a break from my model due to other obligations, but I'm back at it. Standing rigging continues. Ratlines are next, then on to some sail work. John
  7. I bought my kit in the late '80's, so it's machine cut (routed). I would think the laser cut parts would be more accurate to the drawings? Anyway, I did put together a base board and bonded six small blocks (three pairs of two each) to hold the keel upright and straight. The middle two blocks are set apart a bit wider to accommodate the keel pocket doublers. You may not *need* a keel holder like this because of how the deck is installed. The deck slots key into the bulkheads, and it's important that everything fits well before gluing it down. I did quite a bit of trimming on the deck s
  8. Please follow along! It was your earlier posting (August I think) that jump started me to build my kit. We probably have the same kits. I elected to try a single planked scheme using bass wood, but the double planked way will also work really well. I was trying my hand at single planking to help develop some skills. Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any Q's. BTW, I'm progressing along with masts and rigging, but I'm having some photo software issues. More soon, I hope. John
  9. Rick, It looks good so far! I believe once the hull is taken away from the molds, it will make more sense. BTW, I bought this model in 1988 (the older yellow box version). I opened the kit, read the plans, and was immediately overwhelmed. I then built another kit that I believed was better suited for my skills, but truth is, I should have done WB instead. This forum is responsible for allowing so many novices the chance to enjoy this hobby, to start their first kit, and then see it through to completion. Just might have a go at my own WB now! John
  10. Some rig fittings have been installed on deck, and now it's official: the boat is named! John
  11. Mast building continues, and I'm ok with the results so far. The boom has an interesting detail that I wanted to simulate. The main sail attachment to the boom used many small steel fittings. The kit plans show a rope spiraled through the sail and around the boom. I would have likely done this too, but I've discovered Johnson's yacht pictures of Puritan and Mayflower. Pictures like these are really a blessing for scale details, but also impart the burden of "doing it right". Below shows my sequence of making them. John
  12. Bob, I'll be watching closely how you figure out unknown rigging details on your model. I've got a couple of 'unknowns' myself with my build. I agree with your observation; these boats were rigged as conditions and materials permitted. I really like how your Lettie is looking! John
  13. Hello shipmates, Work on the mast is going well, and I'm taking lots of extra time to sort out the standing and running rig plans. The urge overcame me completely and I HAD to stick the mast into the deck. What inspiration!! I might have to make the boom again, the wood I chose (ash, I think) to replace the kit's warped piece looks weird with it's big, open grain. I had no idea how it would finish with stain until I had it shaped and sanded. Oops. Lesson learned: Test wood and finishes first!! But most everything else seems to be going ok. This sloop is at the outer edge of my abilit
  14. It was a productive weekend. I made some metal bits to mount the bowsprit, and everything eventually fit into place. I think the hull and deck are nearly done, except for boat davits. Next up; building the masts. This will be really interesting for me since I've only built the AL Swift before this. I know this rig is just a sloop, but it does have some degree of detail that I'll have to study so I don't goof up and install things in the wrong places. Mamoli seems to have a concise rig plan, but there are some differences when compared to old photos. John
  15. Thanks so much Nils, David, and Pete. Nils, I've seen pictures of Genesta, but I'm not sure if I'm seeing the correct boat you describe. I'll do more research to see. I'm very new to ship modeling, and there is so much I do not know. David, that's a really good question about paint or clear finish on the hull. My original goal was to get the planks fitted very tight and seamless, and the wood smoothed out so that minimal paint would be used, like a wash maybe. I wanted the boat to simulate Puritan closely, and I had hoped for a finish that showed some of the plank definition. But since
  16. Hello all, I keep chipping away at my Puritan, and while I'm pleased with how things are coming together, I'm imagining what improvements to make on my next model. I made new skylights, the kit castings were a bit bulky. These were a LOT harder to make than I thought they would be. I made moulding for the frames, and used .015" wire (guitar string) for the rods. The winches..ouch! They seem way too big, but I'm using them anyway. Thanks for checking in. John
  17. Eitan, I'm following your build closely, it's looking great. Still awaiting a response from Mystic... John
  18. I've been working on the deck furniture and fittings, while discovering just how much time it takes me to complete a particular part. Do I even need to mention the do-overs?? ;-) There's a common native tree here in N. Calif called manzanita. It's very twisty, dense, hard wood. I gathered a few small dead limbs and made some lumber. It's not really suitable for much, but I'm finding it interesting to work with. I made the aft bits from it, and will also use it for the bowsprit mounts (I don't know the correct term). John
  19. Thank you Bob, such nice words from an excellent craftsman. And thanks for the likes, it's quite humbling with this group! I finished the centerboard last evening. The kit supplies this rather large chunk of cast metal, the purpose is to help with ballast for a functioning model. The full size boat also used a ballasted centerboard, so I figured I could shape this casting up to work out ok on my model. Foil tape simulates the copper leading edge. Note: I did learn that the centerboard should probably be another 5-6 ft long, but I caught it too late. Also, the shape (according to the Ma
  20. Thank you gents. I like how it's coming together, but that's not to say I haven't made some mistakes! Previous modeling experience helps me recover from them. I got the waterline figured out, then masked and painted the 'red lead' below. Next up, getting the centerboard finished. That will complete the hull, then it's on to the deck details (YES). John
  21. Thank you Mates. Today I set up my airbrush and applied some paint to the hull. It came out OK, and I kind of like the slightly irregular surface. I didn't want it to look like a smooth plastic hull. Well, no problem there! Next up, I need to establish the water line and apply red lead paint. John
  22. Sand, seal, prime, sand some more. WHAT??? This can't be MY hull!! It's full of small pin holes and seams! Dab on some spot putty, sand some more, it's getting better. Repeat this three more times, OK good, it's getting better.. (I wanted to preserve a hint of wood grain under the finish, but I'm not so sure now). I'm definitely getting a clear appreciation for the other builders on this site. I think it's ready for paint! John
  23. Thank you Eamonn, it's much more enjoyable than my first build (AL Swift) because I took away some good lessons. I have so much more to learn, and this site is really a gem in seeing how others accomplish their art. I did get a few more things done. The lower keel area of the hull had copper sheets nailed and soldered, creating a very smooth finish. I simulated this by using aluminum tape (it will be painted over), scored to simulated the seams. Also, while the kit castings are pretty good, the cross tree (?) at the bow is kind of bulky and curved, so I carved a new one from holly. BT
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