kees de mol

And another part. Sorry for not posting anything last months. Covid hit the carecenter where I work very hard and lot of my clients died. from 19 employees, 11 were sick at home so I had to work very much and long hours. I never got sick and today I got my first vaccin so hope for the best.
 

And another part. Sorry for not posting anything last months. Covid hit the carecenter where I work very hard and lot of my clients died. from 19 employees, 11 were sick at home so I had to work very much and long hours. I never got sick and today I got my first vaccin so hope for the best.
 

And another part which was very rewarding to build. All made of reclaimed wood

And another part. Sorry for not posting anything last months. Covid hit the carecenter where I work very hard and lot of my clients died. from 19 employees, 11 were sick at home so I had to work very much and long hours. I never got sick and today I got my first vaccin so hope for the best.
 

And another part which was very rewarding to build. All made of reclaimed wood

Made some fishbuns

Thanks to all for the comments and the likes – it is always greatly appreciated.
 
 
Hello Ron.  I'm glad you found my log and thank you for the kind words.  Thanks also for the comments regarding the dory, but I'm going to respectfully disagree on the dory's purpose for the following reasons.  First, as I researched these small western-rig boats, I found references to the roof mounted dories as indeed being lifeboats.  I agree with you that present day F/Vs mostly do not carry lifeboats, only inflatables.  But even as late as the 1970s they did. In Peter Prybot's book, White-Tipped Orange Masts: (Gloucester's fishing draggers in the 1970s), the author states that the eastern-rig boats carried two life boats atop the pilothouse and smaller boats carried one.  Here is an image of eastern-rig boats in Boston in the 1960s/70s all carrying dories painted in the same high visibility color.
 

 
The image above doesn't prove anything by itself, but it shows that the boats were common in an earlier time.  As the decades passed and the dories became increasingly rare, it must have been due to the movement toward CO2 canister inflatables.  If the dories were part of the fishing gear, they would not have vanished because the basic method of trawl fishing during this period didn't change.
 
A second reason I believe the dories on these small draggers were not part of the fishing gear is that I have never read where auxiliary boats have ever been used in conjunction with otter trawl gear.  I don't see how the dory would assist in that process or what it could do that the winch or boom hoists could not, especially considering the weight of the gear (wire rope, otter boards, roller gear, etc).  And my final thought is that without a davit, getting the dory down off the roof and back up routinely seems impractical.
 
Of course I could be totally wrong about all of this, but certainly without some way out of the frigid New England water, a person would quickly suffer from cold incapacitation followed by hypothermia in short order.
 
Thanks again Ron.
 
 
Finished
 
This simple diorama base has been a painfully slow slog.  I re-did it several times with each version being tossed into the trash.  But I have surrendered and it is done.
 
I began with a framed platform that measures 7.5” x 13.5”. Like the model, it shows signs of wear.
 

 
 
I then made a landscape foundation of Hyrocal.  This is great stuff – mix with water and it cures hard as a rock, doesn't shrink, crack or flake apart.  I poured this mix onto a piece of waxed paper so I could work the stuff away from the base in anticipation of do-overs.  The rock out-crop is also Hydrocal that I formed in a flexible mold manufactured by Woodland Scenics.  Trailer tire tracks are laid in.
 

 
 
I glued the slab onto the base with crazy amounts of PVA and filled in around the perimeter with a fresh batch of the Hydrocal. There is an interval of time before it has cured (hours) where the stuff is “green” - hard, but very workable with carving tools. I then cut and glued down the wood blocks that will support the boat.
 

 
 
Slide switches and a battery holder for the LED lighting are mounted to the underside.
 

 
 
The Hydrocal was painted with a brown gouache and then landscaping materials are added on top.  The rock out-crops are also colored with gouache.  The “dirt” is pulverized cat box absorbent (unused mind you).  It's placed into a plastic zip bag, smashed with a hammer and then sifted into piles - powder, fine and course.  The scant vegetation is dry bits of things from the flower garden that were then painted with acrylics.  And the scattered rocks are, well - small stones.
 
Once things were arranged to my liking, I sprayed wet water (more like a heavy mist) over everything until good and wet.  This helps the adhesive to flow.  Before it had a chance to dry, I used a craft style syringe/eye dropper and applied a 50/50 PVA/wet water mix over the entire diorama.  A lot of this mixture was applied- everything soaked but no puddles.  Below is how it looks when dry.  I can shake it vigorously upside down and nothing falls off, but that's not a recommended practice.
 

 
 
I make up a few details. An extension ladder colored with acrylics and pigment powder.
 

 

 
 
And a step ladder.
 

 
 
A 55 gallon drum filled with scraps.  The drum is injection molded plastic from Tichy Train Group.  It is based painted rust enamel then over-painted with acrylic, chipped and pigments applied.
 

 
So I grab the boat and bring it over to the base for final mounting.  Before I make it to the base, I sneeze violently and the boat jumps from my hands like it was possessed.  I watched in slow motion horror as the model pitchpoled end over end and landed on the floor like a cat, right side up and flat on its keel.  I could barely believe my careless stupidity or my undeserved good fortune.  The model remained in completely undamaged condition with only the engine stack having been slightly loosened.  Sometimes the gods smile upon you.
 
The LED wiring is run down through holes in the wood blocks and the boat is attached to the base.  Details are glued on and boat stands are added.
 

 

 

 
 
A worker in a pensive moment contemplates the world and his place in it.  The figure is by Arttista.  And at the last minute I decided the scene needed saw horses and a couple of planks.
 

 
And some other direct lighting shots.
 

 

 

 

 
Some indirect lighting photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Well, this model is finished and it has been a pleasure sharing it with you.  I thank everyone who looked in on the build and all the folks that clicked the “like” button.  And to all of you who have generously given comments of support, suggestions, information and expertise – I thank you so very much.
 

 
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary
 

Beautifull build

I made a resistance soldering unit for further solderingwork on the wilhelmina. Tried to post a topic elswhere on the forum but I got a message that I had an IP-block 

Ik started working on the masts 
 
 
 

I definitely understand why you build this ship. What a beauty! And your modelingskills are also very good.

Beautifull build

I definitely understand why you build this ship. What a beauty! And your modelingskills are also very good.

very noce build

I definitely understand why you build this ship. What a beauty! And your modelingskills are also very good.

I definitely understand why you build this ship. What a beauty! And your modelingskills are also very good.

Get the deck "plating" on, and start fiberglassing.
 

 

Thank you Steve, Geert, John, Richard and Allan, and everyone else who has looked in or left a like. I hope to catch up with your respective builds over the next few days. But In the mean time a little more progress.
 
I put coat of poly around the porthole cut outs before gluing the brass surrounds in place.
 

 
I also made and attached the brass catch bars around the small shelves before starting to glue the deckhouse sides on to the previously constructed internal base which included the chart tables / cupboards etc. Its difficult to see but I also attached the between window recessed planks that the curtains partially sit behind. The walls were glued with PVA glue and held by elastic bands until dry.
The forward wall of the deckhouse is heavily instrumented and the above table bulkheads, into which the instruments fit, were also added at this stage.
 

 

 
I then started on the instruments. I think the builders had a job lot of computer screens because Germania has more than I can imagine a use for - at lease 4 large screens plus 2 laptop sized screens so far as i can tell.
 

 
I did a bit of head scratching as to how to simulate the screens before I found a couple of inserts for holding CD's in long dead printers. These had some nice profiled ribbed sections of about the right size.
 

 
I started by slitting off the appropriate strip before cutting out the holes for the screens on the mill using a .080" diameter end mill.
 

 
The cut outs had to be spaced to avoid unwanted profiles / features.
 

 
The screen surrounds measure a half inch square.
 

 
I printed off screen images of the computer screens and instruments and manipulated them using photoshop.
 

 
I also created a pattern for the seat covers and curtains using powerpoint and printed this on paper.
 

 
I then started assembling the various screens into the screen surrounds and mounted the instrument images on backing pieces as appropriate.
 

 
The instrument panel and keyboards were then installed.
 

 
I tried making curtains from fabric but it was too bulky so I eventually settled for paper.
 

 
The couch seat and back cushions were made from softwood and covered with paper.
 

 
And that is all the progress I made this week.

Thank you Gary and Richard.
Pat - thank you for the compliment but I think you undersell your own work.
Michael - I am sticking with my "6 days off, one day on" plan for the moment. I seem to be adding to the household list which is a bit worrying.
 
Thanks to everyone for the likes.
 
 I though I had better make the hinges for the 2 doors. They are a bit bigger than scale at 1/4" long but sometimes I need to compromise.
 
I started with a piece of brass sheet .006" thick. I cut a strip and folded this to form a right angle.
 

 
I folded this over a .020 steel wire and then carefully cut away one side to create the P shape needed. The steel wire was then pulled out.
 
I then filed away parts of the P using a former made for a previous build.
 

 

 
This was then cut down into .250" lengths to form the 2 parts of the hinge.
 

 
I then carried on with building the cabin. 
 

 
I didn't have any details of the cabin door internal steps so I guessed what they would look like.
 

 
The balustrade around the stair well was made and brass tube and wire was used to form the small section of handrail and the compression strut which controls the folding down of the balustrade.
 

 

 
The inside portholes were simulated in brass.  A tube was turned to the correct thickness and 3 axial slots were cut to take 3 small square section tubes. The tubes were soft soldered in place.
 

 
 

 
The outer surface of the square tubes was then turned away on the lathe.
 

 
And finally the porthole rings were parted off.
 

 
And that is this weeks work.
 

Now, I need to correct a couple of mistakes.
The actual frame count is 16 as No 17 would be the transom. Furthermore, there only 14 frames in the above arrangement as somehow I missed two!
 
In any case, the templates have been glued to the 6 mm plywood sheet. This is very thick plywood bought from Cornwall models, it is very good quality with no voids, it reminds me of marine plywood although the wood is soft birch. The little Dremel Motosaw is actually doing a pretty good job and is cutting the plywood with relative ease. The frames at 6 mm thick I think will be sturdy enough for the job.
 





All frames will need to be finished to the exact lines. Then, somehow a mirror paper pattern will need to accurately be glued to the other side to allow for the inner bevel to be cut.
There is a lot of cutting and finishing to be done though!

Everyone thanks for the thumbs up. 
 
the chapter sloops.
 
I finished the last one of this section and added some more details , still need to make 2 more,
but I have to wait a little bit more on them, unfortunately they send me the wrong hulls, they where 13.5cm instead of the ordered 10 cm. 
 
so I will continue on the rest of the structure that still need to be constructed, like the compass platform and the fire control and mast. 
 
below some pictures of the sloops 
 
 

I made a resistance soldering unit for further solderingwork on the wilhelmina. Tried to post a topic elswhere on the forum but I got a message that I had an IP-block