GuntherMT

I thought I could add more story and pictures to one post, but I guess not.
(I'll learn the editing as I go).
 
Cutting the Rabbit. Here I am, slinging my blade (notice no blood, yet). Worked rather well.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Laying the keel, so to speak. I’m doing what an amateur shouldn’t; deviating from the plans. The Center keel is so thick, ¼” that the laser cutter wouldn’t properly cut through it. So they made a port and starboard center keel of 1/8” each and they’re to be glued together.
 
The plans say, after doing the ½ bulkheads on each side, THEN glue it together; but I watch the video of this young lady building it a different way:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFT_cmY7NVI
 
Here’s port and starboard center keel glued together.
 
 
 
 

After assembling the keel and frames, I started planking the aft deck which, if we're being honest, is more like veneering. Nothing too complicated here except to be aware of the thin "planks" splintering pretty easily. They're pretty thin.
 

 
And another word of warning is to make sure you're pushing the the deck into place carefully. It's a tight fit and the planks will buckle up pretty easily when they come into contact with the side walls. Or, just use a lot more glue than I did. 
 

 
And it's set in place.
 
After that I formed, the sides of the deck with a quick soak and curling iron. I learned pretty quickly that it's better to keep the iron temperature relatively low otherwise the heat makes the wood a little bit warped and kind of cooked. Otherwise, it wasn't too much effort to get it glued down sanded/filed evenly with the reinforcements and then line it up with the main deck:
 

 
Next I'll be venturing into real planking with the hull. 
 
In the mean time, I wonder if anyone can help me understand the process of finishing the wood. I've stained wood before but this model calls for varnish. The instructions say:
 
 
Does anyone have link to a product for "satin-finish nitrocellulose varnish" or a recommendation of what they prefer to use? I searched for this online but it's a little bit confusing about which product to purchase. 
 

I recently finished my first build so next I've decided to start on the fishing yacht, Pilar. Why Pilar?  For anyone that isn't familiar with this boat, Earnest Hemingway commissioned Pilar in 1934 and he had many adventures with it throughout his life. I studied literature in college (now completely unrelated to my current profession), which is why I think I became fascinated with his boat. I'm starting to see a pattern of the types of builds that interest me; Winslow Homer painted Grand Bank Dory's (my first build) and Earnest Hemingway's beloved fishing yacht draw a connection between art, literature, and the sea.
 
On the technical side though, the reason I picked Pilar is because I'd like more experience with planking and metalwork both of which this build has a multitude of. In fact, it looks like every single mm of the Pilar is planked in some way so I expect to come out the other end having more than enough experience (and either loving it or hating it).
 
Onto the build!
 
Here is the Pilar on the cover of the Constructo box. It arrived packaged within another box for shipping so it was in great shape. No visible external damage:
 

 
This model was quite a bit more expensive than my first one (nearly double) so I wasn't sure what to expect. I assumed the price was a reflection of all of the different wood for planking but I think that price also reflects a very organized kit with wonderful full color instructions:
 


 
I quickly managed to assemble the false keel and was really happy with how straight everything was at this point. It was solid, true, and I could dry fit easily before gluing everything in place:
 

 
I was also happy that this boat isn't massive. I have very limited working space right now and I was relieved to see that it's only about an inch longer than my first build. I have just enough working space! 😬
 

 
Moving onto the center deck, I'm finding that the provided board for various pieces (including the center deck that I need for the next step) are warped and I'm not really sure what to do about it:
 

 
Should I stop, soak the panels, and try to flatten the entire thing out? Or would it be easier to do that for individual pieces as they're needed? I think the former but I would like to hear what others have done in this situation too.
 
Thanks for following along! This should be a fun one. 
 

Ok, this being my second wooden ship model (first was a Bluejacket Swampscott Dory), I’m prepared to take the plunge into sharing my ignorance. I’ve been closely following the logs of experienced builders of this model and similar schooners, and I hope to learn by doing. Having just completed bulkhead framing, I thought it would be helpful to pass on some initial thoughts to newbies like me, who are considering this model: 
1. A Dremel tool is proving remarkably helpful for sanding, shaping, fudging, etc.
2. When completing the initial steps of gluing the keel halves (port and starboard), take the extra step of inserting a piece of scrap wood or two from the bulkhead sheet into one or two of the bulkhead slots before gluing and weighting/clamping. Do this regardless of whether you glue fore/aft sections before p/s or after. Any minuscule deviance fore and aft at the slots will create a lot of work in the next step of inserting and gluing the bulkheads, since there is virtually no tolerance in the laser cut pieces.  As an alternative to the order prescribed in the instruction, you may want to glue up the entire keel bulkhead assembly at one time, then check alignment with the plank sheers before the glue dries.
3. In the event you choose to ignore item 2 above, see item 1.
4. When attaching the keel-stem per the instructions (i.e. after chiseling out from the beardline), I found it helpful to use toothpicks (the good, round hardwood ones) as dowels after the glue has set. This wasn’t for alignment—which was pretty easy— but rather to add strength to the joint, which has been glued along a rather narrow interface. I just drilled (again Dremel) conforming vertical holes through keel-stem and main keel piece and glued them in place. 
That’s all for now. More headaches to be identified as I trip over them. 

 
 
 

I am new to this site as well as being new to model ship building. I have had this kit for quite a few years and just never got around to starting it. With COVID 19 keeping us more at home I thought it would be a great time to start building model. 

I am using the John Earl instructions along with the kit instructions. This has been very helpful along with the build logs I have found on this site. After getting the hull planked it was on to deck planking. At this point I decided to invest in thinner basswood strips so as to be closer to scale. I also opted to use a black sharpie on the edges to simulate the caulking. As per the John Earle suggestion I put the waterways in place first and then fitted the deck planks so they were at the same level. However I decided not to follow the curve of the water ways on the afterdeck. The earliest picture I took of my progress is after completing the hull planking. 

I am getting ready to start my second build. I’ve chosen to build the sardine carrier Pauline by Bluejacket Shipcrafters. I hope you will indulge me as I start with a brief history of sardine carriers.*
 
Having spent a lot of time traveling up and down the coast of Maine between Portland and Mount Desert Island, both by car and boat, I have come across a variety of ships and boats. As I have noted before, I have always been drawn to working boats/ships.
 
The Pauline, among other sardine carriers, has a unique spot in Maine’s maritime history. The areas along Maine’s convoluted shoreline known as the Midcoast and Down East were a favorite feeding ground for herring; sardines being an immature type of herring.
 
Around the later 1800s sardines became a thriving industry in Maine and bordering Canada, as the first sardine canneries began popping up along that part of the coast. Herring were seined and additionally caught in weirs. Weirs were roughly circular enclosures of pilings and/or saplings, lined with nets, in which the herring swam into with the tide to feed. When the weirs were full the fisherman would come out (usually in a dory) to the weir, drop a seine net around the weir, trapping the herring. Once the fish were trapped in the net a “carryaway” boat, would come and transfer the fish to the cannery.
 

 
The carryaway boats were usually schooners, as they were abundant in the area and large enough to carry the catch. The nature of the sardine industry, mainly the fact that the small fish were highly perishable and speed getting to the canneries was critical, caused the carryaway boat to be changed from a schooner to a sloop-rigged, double-ended vessel. They were referred to as pinky type, but did not have the built-up bulwarks of the older pinky schooners. The sloop rig was faster than the schooner and was also able to carry more fish, due to larger holds.
 
The pinky, although larger than the carryaway boat, was still too small to handle the demand, and when faced with a heading tide or no wind, too slow. Symbolic of the demise of the sailing sloops—and all sailing sardine boats for that matter—was the steamer.

Fast forward to the end of the Nineteenth Century, beginning of the Twentieth Century and gasoline power pretty much marked the end of sailing sardine boats. Initially, the carriers were boats designed for sail, but retrofitted with engines. Eventually vessels were designed specifically to carry sardines.
 
The Pauline was built by the Newbert & Wallace yard in Thomaston, Maine. The Pauline was built for The North Lubec Canning Company in 1948. She was built with 4” double-sawn frames and 2” hard pine planking. She was built to have three watertight bulkheads, with the engine room in the after compartment and the living quarters up forward. That way there were two fish holds amidships, so it didn’t make any difference how much of a load was on board - she still trimmed well. Pauline had a length overall of 83’. She was known as the “queen of the fleet”. She was one of the best kept carriers on the Maine coast. Her captain, Henry Dodge and mate, Carl “Swede” Carlson, taking over in 1965, kept the Pauline looking like a yacht.
 
After 40 years, working as a sardine carrier, in 1988 the Pauline was purchased and converted into a passenger vessel. She was used coastwise Maine until sometime in the early 2000s. She sat unused for years at the Billings Diesel & Marine shipyard in Stonington, Maine. A few years ago, Harlan Billings, late owner of the shipyard, donated Pauline to OceansWide Inc., a 501(c)(3) nonprofit. OceanWide is currently raising the funding to restore Pauline to her original appearance as a sardine carrier.
 
Pauline was pulled earlier this past summer and is now sitting on the hard at Billings where she is waiting to be moved to another yard.
This summer I moored my boat at Billings yard in Stonington and took a picture of Pauline on the hard. I for one can’t wait to see her restored back to her beautiful old self.
 

 
*Credits for above:
Coastal Maine, A Maritime History by Roger F. Duncan Countryman Press, 2002.
Sardine Carriers by Michael Crowley, WoodenBoat Magazine, issues 58 & 59, 1984.
Pauline, A Working Sardine Carrier by Maynard Bray, WoodenBoat Magazine, issues 59, 1984.
Iconic Sardine Carrier Pauline to be Restored for Education by Stephen Rappaport, The Ellsworth American, July 17, 2020.
 
I began this build by driving up to Searsport, Maine and picking up my kit directly from Bluejacket Shipcrafters. It was a real thrill to be able to walk their showroom and see all their models completed and displayed. I would like to express my gratitude to Nic Damuck and crew for being so welcoming, especially Nic, for taking the time to take me on a tour of their fabulous facilities. If you are ever in this part of the country, stop by, you won't be sorry.
 
 
 
 

Here is an image of the kit contents:
 

 
I have been spending time gathering items needed for my build and familiarizing myself with the instructions. This build looks to be, for me, way more challenging than the Red Baron. I plan to take my time. I am still learning to work with wood and the tools that I am acquiring.
 
Starting out I am shaping and smoothing the deck surface.
 

 
I am including a picture below of the sardine carrier Jacob Pike. I took the image this summer while stopping in Boothbay Harbor, Maine. The Jacob Pike is currently moored there. She was built in 1949 in the same yard as the Pauline.
 

And now; Drum Roll; My first attempt at planking. The make-or-break of a POB build. Now that I have the hull planked, I'm pretty pleased that it came out as well as it did. After all, this is a first attempt. There will be much sanding and some mistakes were made. It's a painted model so the mistakes will be hidden.
 
Two observations:
The prototype was not a perfectly smooth hull. In pictures of the original you can see the planks.
The planks were wider than the Model Shipways plans indicate.
Plan Problems:
The way the planks lay on the counter and transistion to the keel was not clear from the plan and the manual. It took some experimentation to figure it out.
The stern post in the plan is a different length than the laser cut implementation by about 1/2 inch. thus there are 12 planks shown from the top of the post to the Garboard but only eight fit on the actual model.
 
Unfortunately, I did not realize this before planking and I went with the provided plan. This is not a serious problem in a painted model. I will remember not to make the hull completely smooth though. Some slight plank shapes should show through the paint.
 
Looking closely at the model after planking I can see a dramatic improvement as the job progresses. I was experimenting at the beginning and learning technique. By the time the last planks were laid they were looking uniform and well butted.
 
Throughout I used that iron of my wife's. She doesn't iron anyway. It worked very well for bending. High cotton setting and a little bucket of water next to it. I simple dipped a plank in the water and held it against the iron. The water turned to steam and penetrated the wood. There was little wetting and my planks were dry by the time the bend was done. After the first steaming I could soften the wood with heat only. This kept the planks dry. I could even get a bit of lateral bending out of the basswood.
 
Another tool that was essential was a miniature plane. This was a nifty, nicely made tool on sale for $4.75 with Amazon Prime.

 
To shape planks I clamped it upside down in a relatively heavy vice. I could then mark the plank with it's shape and draw it across the blade of the plane. It was even possible to calibrate it to .005" per cut. That way I knew just how much to cut. With a little practice I could get nicely shaped planks quite easily.
 

 
It took considerable experimentation and research to get the hang of using battens and measuring with tick strips. The plan also was difficult to read the proper taper of planks from. In the end I simply made up the tapers using my own measurements taken with tick strips and calipers. I took plenty of breaks to avoid getting sloppy.
 
As per recommendations on other planking practicums, I tried to bend my planks to lay perfectly in place before gluing. The PVA glue worked very well as a result and I needed to do very little clamping, and none for most planks. The PVA would set in about a minute. 30 seconds in thin coats. Just enough time to get the plank positioned correctly. For that short a time all I needed was my fingers to hold planks. I could use one hand to hold the plank and the other to wipe excess glue.
 
I put a small drop of glue on each bulkhead and a bead on the mating side of the plank. After putting the bead on I ran my finger down the side to spread the glue in a thin coat. Set up time was just right. The planking appears to be very solid and strong.
 
Below are in-process pictures:
 


 
Ready to close!
 

 
Looks really cool on the inside too...
 

The waterways are important to get right as they set the upper run of planking. The manual and plans have really good detail and examples of the waterways and an enlarged diagram of their installation. This went well except at the great beam where the bulkhead was slanted a tiny bit fore-aft. Some experimentation indicated this was not going to be noticeable once the planking and waist were installed. Oddly there was an extra piece for the great beam in the cutouts.

 
At this time the knightheads were installed.
 

 
At this point I discovered an inaccuracy in the kit. The bulkhead posts are all short by 1/32 inch. careful measurement confirmed the posts are 1/32 short compared to the plan. ALL the posts. There must be some systematic error in the laser cut programming.
 


 
Two ways to fix this. Add a 1/32 strip under the main rail or replace the posts with the correct height. Either will work as the difference would be hidden by the waist and main rail. Still, it's extra work and an annoyance. I'll save this for later.
 
At this point I got impatient and decided to try making the scuppers with a handheld Dremel tool. Lesson learned: Bad idea. Now just a mess to clean up and redo. Another "tackle this later" item.
 

 
I also experimented with cutting and installing stantions. This did not go too well either. I had trouble getting a uniform height which will be needed to set the main rail correctly. I experimented with my usual methods of getting uniform cuts but these are too tiny for those. I'll have to figure out something new. Suggestions are welcome. Looks pretty though.
 

Next the stern blocks. An area of difficulty for me as my carving skills are abysmal. The plans do not give a good account of the stern. There are several exemplar drawings which are only orthogonal. Some dimensions and a guide for the angle of the counter would be helpful. As it is, it's pretty much up to the old eyeball. A tiny piece of angled keel is all there is to go by for the angle. The plans show small inserts in the stern blocks for the counter timbers, but they are not sufficient to hold these pieces and the angle is not shown.
 
This turned out be be an iterative process. I created some rough blocks that fit against the last bulkhead which did not give the proper tapered shape and provided an uneven curve.
 

 

 
The counter was built up and shaped with multiple passes of wood filler and sanding until the side pieces and timbers could be set.

 
Then lots more wood filler and sanding to shape until it was sufficiently accurate to plank inside and out.
 

 
Still pretty crude, but getting there. Good enough to plank at this point. Still some shaping to go.

The counter area is not well explained. Neither the plan nor the manual had a good explanation or diagram. However, between the two I was able to figure it out correctly. After the bulkheads are installed notches are cut for the "horn" timbers. These are set into and flush against the last two bulkheads from the bottom. This leaves the keel out the depth of the hull planks which butt against the keel in this area and glue to the horn timbers.

 
 

The wood the bulkheads were in was slightly curved. I found that steaming with a household iron worked pretty well for flattening. I don't think my wife realized what I was doing with her iron. The iron was set on the high cotton setting. Iron the bulkhead until hot and let them dry on a flat surface with a weight on top.
 
Next the bulkheads were faired. The bulkheads and their tapers are shown on the plans individually. I found the tapers to be accurate. Again the taper lines need to be transferred to each bulkhead and the bulkheads carved before assembly.  Be sure you taper the correct side of each bulkhead. I marked them with the correct side and the bulkhead letter to be sure. A Dremel with a sanding drum worked pretty well here.
 
Installing the bulkheads is straightforward but finicky. They must be aligned square to the keel and vertically. Mine were nicely squared lengthwise using square blocks and clamps, but one had the fore-aft slant off a bit . In retrospect I should have shimmed them tight in the slots which would have prevented this. The laser cut fit is pretty loose.
 
To ensure they were correctly spaced I cut spacers for insertion between bulkheads at their outer end. This also adds strength and ensures any residual warpage is removed. As recommended, do both side spaces at the same time for each bulkhead to avoid the dreaded "Banana" warp. Keep an eye on the tops. They must be flush with the keel to accommodate the deck.

Of the two methods of creating the mast sockets I chose to use two half blocks around the preformed slots. As pointed out in the plans this method allows the mast to be removed later if needed. It also allows for shims to be glued in the hole to adjust the mast alignment.
A block the depth of the mast slot and three times the width of the false keel was cut. The block has a hole drilled that provides a snug fit for the mast. Then a section is cut from the block the thickness of the false keel. The two halves are glued over the mast slot using the mast dowel to keep everything aligned.

Also note the keel seams have reinforcing blocks glued in place. This adds strength and discourages warping of the keel. Don't forget to sand these pieces flush with the top of the keel. The Model Shipways kit does not include a sub-deck as the Billings Boats kit does. The deck is laid directly on the bulkheads.

The next problem was bearding. The plans have good details of the bearding. The problem was to transfer the lines from the plans to the wood. I chose to do this using the wax paper as it was fairly rigid, translucent and comes in long rolls. Tracing paper also works but is often flimsy. Trace the bearding lines and alignment lines from the plans, then use contact cement to attach the wax paper to the wood. From here, you can cut the bearding lines through the paper. I chose to mark the lines with a scalpel and remove the wax paper. This provided a nice clean line and no paper to get in the way while cutting the bearding. This went well using a chisel blade Xacto knife except for the large area of bearding near the stern. I could not get the shallow angle required because the handle of the chisel interfered. This area ended up being a little chewed up.



I was able to smooth this enough it would not affect the planking. A chisel with an angled handle would be helpful here.

First step is to assemble the keel. This is when you first get an idea of the real size of the project. Bluenose is a very satisfying size. Another reason to pick this kit. Having three sections is not ideal. Sections are carefully fitted and glued. The assembly is placed on a flat surface with wax paper. Wax side toward the wood. Another layer of wax paper and weights on top. After drying there is a nice, straight keel. Double check for flatness. It's not too late at this point to make corrections.

While waiting for the kit to arrive there were lists of small parts and tools to acquire as part of upping the skill level. A craftsman needs the right tools to do a good job. No more hacking away with the wrong tool! After all, my wife is always telling me I shouldn't be so tight. The build logs and forums on MSW were very helpful with sources and suggestions.
 
After reading the tools and tips forum I decided to go with PVA glue. Ordinary Elmers Glue-All works well. It's strong and has a convenient working time. I experimented with using both PVA and CA. CA had been frustrating to use on my Cutty Sark. I had inconsistent working times. I also find the CA tends be absorbed quickly in wood and causes problems with discoloration.
 
The kit arrived after a week. I spent some time organizing parts and separating and marking wood.
 
The plans are generally nice. There are multiple views and lots of detail drawings. Some of the detail drawings are not to the same scale. Some are general representations. Be careful! One thing I did not like about the plans is details are not always organized with construction steps they apply to. That led to a lot of flipping sheets back and forth. Overall I'm happy.
 
The manual is, as noted in MSW blogs, rather lacking in detail. I was able to supplement the manual with how-tos and info in forums. It does have key steps outlined.
 
I ordered the paint set recommended for Bluenose from Model Expo. I later read a post complaining about the airbrush compatibility of Model Expo paints. That was only in one blog. Hopefully my experience will not be the same.
 
I looked into getting a practicum. After reading the MSW forums I decided against getting one. There appears to be enough info and build logs that it would not be that useful. I've bookmarked key topics for quick reference.
 
I think I will purchase at least some of the deadeyes from Syren as recommended in many build logs. In particular the heart shaped upper deadeyes for Bluenose are not provided as discrete parts. They are laser cutouts in basswood that need to be drilled and will not match the rest of the pulleys and deadeyes.
 
There are lots of small parts and brass wire and strip. The winch machinery near the bow is provided in cast metal. These are somewhat crude and will need quite a bit of finishing. I see that some bloggers here have made their own metal parts and done a beautiful job. That requires a lath and milling machine. I think I will try salvaging the provided ones before investing in those tools.
 
As pointed out elsewhere, the provide flag is not correct for the era of Bluenose. Also there are no decals for the lettering or decorations. I'm open to suggestions here. I've not seen an ideal solution in the build logs yet.
 
 

Greetings MSW users. While researching my project I've found MSW to be a wonderful resource. I especially appreciate the friendly and encouraging atmosphere. No build is too small or question too dumb. All are treated respectfully. So unlike much of our world today.
 
I began modeling while in elementary school and continued through secondary school. Mostly cars and airplanes. Simple plastic models and a few wooden airplanes. The hobby taught me about tools, patience and an appreciation for detail. These skills translated well into my later career. I drifted away from the hobby during college and many years of working. After retirement I began to think about building wooden ship models. Something I had always wanted to do.
 
For my first project I bought a solid hull Cutty Sark model by Scientific Models on Ebay. This 1:200 model was about the size of a plastic Cutty Sark I had built during secondary school. While it turned out OK for a first attempt, It was not large enough to do complete rigging. Only the standing rigging and sheets were practical at that scale. At least for my limited skills. Many fittings and details were only approximate representations. The hull had been started and there were a few parts missing when I obtained the kit.
 
Why Bluenose? I was casting about for an interesting but not too complicated POB kit to challenge me and build skills without being overwhelmed to the point of giving up. My wife was pushing for a fairly large sloop rigged boat to become part of our decor. I picked Bluenose for the beautiful and sensuous lines. It also had interesting fittings and rigging, but was not so complicated as a man-of-war or square rigged schooner. The history of the ship was intriguing. Many research materials and build logs are available.  Plus my wife found it acceptable.
 
I studied build logs and researched model kits. The three most popular Bluenose kits were Artisana Latina, Billings Boats and Model Shipways. Artisana appears to be the least accurate. Photos and comments in general were not very favorable. The Billings is very popular and it has some construction advantages. However the build logs complain about inaccuracies. Model Shipways kit appeared the most accurate. I was also impressed they allowed for mistakes by including extra wood. I did find at least one inaccuracy in the plans as will be noted later. None had highly rated instructions or plans. At this skill level that shouldn't be a problem though.
 
 
 

Since receiving my DOK kit last Monday I have been following your log with great interest. 
 
I am sure that it has prevented me from falling into some of the issues that you have encountered - particularly as I have an additional 16 years worth of excuses for having my own  "senior moment "or two!
 
My build has been going quite well and I am now at the point were I am about to start the second planking - though I have had a coupe of issues:
 
1) Inevitably  I managed to break a couple of the temporary cross beams whilst handing the model  during the first planking  - I notice that you also seem to have had an issue with this!
 
2) Also being quite clumsy I managed to break off the figurehead mount on the bow - I knew that I was likely to do that and I did! But never mind I think that I have managed to repair it when putting on the Bow Outer Facings.
 
You may be interested that I didn't need to insert the stealers that you have used at the stern. I think the reason for that is that I tapered some of the early planks around the initial bend. Looking at the pictures in instructions it looks like this is what was done on the original prototype. It would probably be helpful if this was pointed out in the text associated with these steps. However, it must be said that the overall standard of the instructions is excellent!
 
Best of luck with your build.
 
Dave
 

I'm making slow but steady progress with my first planking. I ended up fitting a short steeler plank around the bow area as I was fitting planks 7 and 8. In reality this was not strictly necessary but it I think it helped.

 
After fitting the 8th plank I found it necessary to adjust the position of the 9th planking order for it to run along its natural path, as can be seen in the photo below.

 
I tried to leave a gap, at the widest point equal to either 3 or 4 plank widths for the infill. I ended up with a gap of approx. 3.5 plank widths. Fortunately this was not an issue as the final short filler plank did not require much effort to shape it to fit. 

 

good evening everyone

what the hell are you doing here i ask you say

well i fancied a break from ship building, and wanted to try something different, i not expecting it to take years to do either, so i could be back to the sawdust within weeks

well this is a kit by Aedes ars and they have a range of historical buildings in their catalogue, i picked this one, as the castle i fancy are now wrapped up for Christmas to me
this is the link to the subject
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stari_Most
i ordered it last night and it arrived 18 hours later

apart from tools everything is in the box

                                         

Started the planking with watered down wood glue and it's working beautifully, especially with the pencil simulating the caulking. Only got a few planks on and cured but I can already see a huge difference from my first attempt. Hard to tell in the picture with all the measurements, but once done and varnished it'll be awsome.

I now have 1:64th carronade kits available. These are:
 
12 Pounder early carronade with choice of truck or sliding carriage. (These really are quite dinky...)
18, 24 and 32 Pounder carronades. They are sold as singles and include the black resin barrel, PE and laser cut pear carriage parts. For the 18, 24 and 32 Pounder carriages, there are choices for mounting on the deck or on the lower gun port opening ledge.
 
In the pics, the trunnion bracket on the carronade barrels overhang the upper bed slightly, it does not on the production kit parts.
 
https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/carronade-kits/
 
Also available now is the 18 Pounder short barrel.

I like the Byrnes saw/basket ball analogy. I also took the plunge and bought one and I am building my ship model on a boat, in the engine room. Very compact and easy to move/store. Well worth the money. You can see how small the saw is relative to the model in the second photo.
All my planks are ripped from pre milled billets from Syren, affordable and exceptional quality wood when finished.
JJ