GuntherMT

Good afternoon everyone...  I'm happy to say that the coils (and loops) have been completed. As many of you now when building this model it's difficult not to beak something off during construction.  The "pointy things", as Shipyard Sid calls them, probably have seen breakoffs and replacements a dozen times at least.  Since it now seemed to be safe,  I finally mounted the ensign staff which,according to the construction manual, should have been attached a long time ago.  I didn't do it then because it is just another "pointy thing" beckoning to be broken.  I still have the lanterns to attach to the stern and foremast which will be the next step as I wait for the ship's boat parts to arrive from Jotika.  Here a couple more photos which, with the rest previoius posted, should show all the coils includong the little one at the bottom of the mainmast---often missed.

Gun rope coils moving right along

Made some more progress today.  Weekends with no plans are pretty good for getting stuff done if I actually work on stuff!
 
Began by fairing the poop deck, which was pretty easy, just a sanding block needed here.
 

 
The notches were not correct in the sub-deck, so I had to adjust them.  The deck was too short as well, but looking ahead to the deck finishing, you end up cutting the leading edge of the sub deck off later to place a trim piece there, so I just shifted the sub-deck rearward and adjusted the notches accordingly, rather than having to trim it off later.
 
Used more pieces of the basswood deck planking material that I won't use for the build to 'clamp' the sub deck rather than using nails or pins.
 


 
Then installed the support beams for the quarter deck and the rear of the main deck.  Used a little collar pin that I think I got from Micro-Mark to hold the forward quarter deck beam in place while the glue dried.  Got them sometime after I could have used them on the Carmen because they looked like they might be pretty useful, and this is the first time I've used one.
 




 
After this, the fun part began.  Fairing the main deck.  This was quite a challenge, as the bulkhead extensions really get in the way of doing much work with a reasonable sized sanding block, and I was quite worried I'd break one off.  I ended up putting a fine grinding stone on the Dremel tool, and held it vertically using the 'flat' face of the stone (cylindrical shaped stone) to grind away on each bulkwark top, and measuring with a plank that extended most of the length of the deck.
 
The bulkhead F that I had shimmed up, I ended up completely sanding down the shim back to the bulkhead material, and then ended up shimming the other side of that bulkhead.  The best laid plans and all.  At the end I had added full shims to the top of 4 bulkheads, and half-shims to another couple before I was happy with how the plank laid from the center line out to each set of extensions.
 

 
After a lot of notch trimming, and breaking off a few pieces of the edge of the very fragile sub deck, I got it glued on, and clamped with the same 'plank & rubber band' system I used on the other sub-decks.
 

 
The odd streak near the center line of the main deck is just a dark spot in the wood.  When I first saw that on the pictures, I do admit to having a bit of a panic moment, wondering how I had a big split in the deck without noticing it.
 

 
Next I'll begin fairing work on the hull, and working on the stern transom.

Thank you Slog.
 
I've finished the reinforcement blocks finally, although I chose to completely fill the final two gaps at the bow rather than use the blocks, in order to help me see the 'flow' of the hull up there when I get to fairing.
 
While doing the reinforcement blocks, I used the opportunity to correct any minor out of square issues with the bulkheads.  I did this by measuring at multiple points along the top of each bulkhead, always taking my measurements off of bulkhead 'O' which I took great care to square up with all the stern bulkheads and the keel.
 

 
After measuring to determine if I needed any adjustments to the bulkheads, I would cut individual blocks and then fine tune them until they caused the measurements from bulkhead 'O' to be right where I wanted them, and equal on both sides.  I was having some issues where the addition of the glue prior to final fitting would actually change my measurements slightly, so I devised a technique to apply the glue after fitting the blocks in place, so that I did not need to compensate for the glue thickness on the ends of the blocks.
 
After my final measurements and test fitting was complete, I cut a 'cross' into both ends of the block with a razor saw.
 

 
I would then slightly widen the leg of the cross that would be 'outboard', and then place the block without glue, and hold it in place (if needed) with needle nose pliers, while I used a syringe to inject the glue into the cross via the slightly wider leg.
 

 
As can be seen here, the glue would flow through the cross, and would almost always bubble out of each of the other three points almost equally. 
 

 
This method seemed to work quite well, and I had no measurement changes between the final test fit, and the glued in blocks after starting this system.  After the glue had set for a couple minutes I would then use the syringe to lay a 'bead' of glue around all four edges of the block where it laid against the bulkheads.  Testing several blocks that were completely dried shows that they have plenty of strength with this system.
 
After inserting the last two spaces with filler blocks, this is where I'm currently at. 
 

 
Every bulkhead is even with bulkhead 'O'  along at least 3 points on each side, to less than 0.5mm now with all reinforcements in place.
 
Next I'll begin to work on the sub-decks braces and sub-decks for fitment, and the bow fillers I think.

Thanks Rich, and I got your message and sent him an email.
 
Alistair, thanks for the tip - I could probably use that same filler that messed up the Carmen hull so much, as it's very light colored (which was the problem with it in that scenario on walnut).  I'll do some testing with that.
 
Fairly brief update tonight, spent most of the day at a charity event so not much time on the ship.
 
I finished gluing in all the bulkheads, and I have started placing reinforcing blocks between the bulkheads.  I'm using 5/16" square basswood for the blocks.  I was going to use balsa, but it's just as expensive as basswood, so I just got basswood figuring it will always be useful to have extra basswood bits around.
 
After last nights update, I decided to do "one more bulkhead" before bed.  Yea, I'm dumb that way.  I managed to get distracted after gluing it in place and setting the blocks against it, and left it so long that the excess glue got onto the blocks and glued the bulkhead to both blocks.  I broke both sides of the bulkhead trying to get them apart.  Because the center slot was solid, and the breaks were both clean, I drilled a hole through the center of the now solid slot, drilled a hole into both sides and pinned the broken pieces all back together with a single long pin made from a toothpick.  After the glue dried, I think it's the strongest bulkhead I have now.
 

Cheers guys
I have moved upfront to the bow decoration, this is a crucial part as it is quite a focal point of the whole ship and has to be spot on. Lots of paper templates to get the shape and then back to bending wood that's constantly battling to stay straight.

I installed the Paddle Wheel Walls that are displayed in my last post. Next were the six Deck Braces A.
    The front Engine Room Walls A, the Kitchen Deck Railings B, and Ladders from the Main Deck to the Kitchen Deck C, the Rear Main Deck Railings D, and the Paddle Wheel Housings E were added.
    The walls of the Rear Boiler Deck Cabin A were attached to the Rear Boiler Deck B which was then cemented to the aft portion of the model.
    The Forward Boiler Deck A was attached and then the Boiler Deck Cabin Walls were added B.
    The Main Stairway A between the decks and the Railings B at the top of the stairway were installed. The plans called for braces to be cemented to the underside of the stairway before installing the stairway. I found that impossible to do given the amount of space between the two decks. I don’t think they will be missed. Then the Deck Brace C and the Side Braces D were installed.
    Now I’m in trouble. Earlier, while waiting for glue or paint to dry, I got impatient and decided I could jump ahead and construct the cabins that are on the Front and Rear Deck sections as seen in the photo below.
 
 
When I began to attach these pieces to the Top Deck, I found that they did not line up properly. The cabins should be added after the decks are cemented together. I was able to disassemble the parts without any damage and that’s where I am currently. I need this poster over my work desk:
 

Still planking away. Hoping to finish this in the next couple days.

You might want to try purchasing paint pens to do the scroll work on the transom.  Just google "paint pens" and you'll see a whole variety of manufacturers.  You can get one in gold and another in black and try doing the scroll work that way.  It would be difficult to do that kind of detail with a paint brush.  If you see a picture of the transom on the actual model in Annapolis (I think Chuck took some photos of her and they're on this site) you'll see that it was just painted on - not actual wooden scroll work.  Paint pens are great for use when you need really precise control over what your detailing - give it a try.
 
Rob D.
Valley Stream, NY

Thanks Ken,
I used Elmer's white glue (thinned) to paint on the edges of the sail cloth for the Bounty's launch. I cut the cloth over sized and painted the glue around the edges then double folded to hide the frayed edge and sowed on a machine. After finished I washed the sail to remove glue and re-stretch to smooth.
Also created seams within the sail by same process gluing and folding strips of cloth to create <1/8 inch false seams that were sown to the sail. FA is smaller scale so that process may not be applicable, and the launch sails were deployed slightly less than full size. Also used flat lacquer to spray on the sail that was taped over a 1 gallon jug to form its curved shape.

Thank you Slog.
 
I've finished the reinforcement blocks finally, although I chose to completely fill the final two gaps at the bow rather than use the blocks, in order to help me see the 'flow' of the hull up there when I get to fairing.
 
While doing the reinforcement blocks, I used the opportunity to correct any minor out of square issues with the bulkheads.  I did this by measuring at multiple points along the top of each bulkhead, always taking my measurements off of bulkhead 'O' which I took great care to square up with all the stern bulkheads and the keel.
 

 
After measuring to determine if I needed any adjustments to the bulkheads, I would cut individual blocks and then fine tune them until they caused the measurements from bulkhead 'O' to be right where I wanted them, and equal on both sides.  I was having some issues where the addition of the glue prior to final fitting would actually change my measurements slightly, so I devised a technique to apply the glue after fitting the blocks in place, so that I did not need to compensate for the glue thickness on the ends of the blocks.
 
After my final measurements and test fitting was complete, I cut a 'cross' into both ends of the block with a razor saw.
 

 
I would then slightly widen the leg of the cross that would be 'outboard', and then place the block without glue, and hold it in place (if needed) with needle nose pliers, while I used a syringe to inject the glue into the cross via the slightly wider leg.
 

 
As can be seen here, the glue would flow through the cross, and would almost always bubble out of each of the other three points almost equally. 
 

 
This method seemed to work quite well, and I had no measurement changes between the final test fit, and the glued in blocks after starting this system.  After the glue had set for a couple minutes I would then use the syringe to lay a 'bead' of glue around all four edges of the block where it laid against the bulkheads.  Testing several blocks that were completely dried shows that they have plenty of strength with this system.
 
After inserting the last two spaces with filler blocks, this is where I'm currently at. 
 

 
Every bulkhead is even with bulkhead 'O'  along at least 3 points on each side, to less than 0.5mm now with all reinforcements in place.
 
Next I'll begin to work on the sub-decks braces and sub-decks for fitment, and the bow fillers I think.

I started studying the layout of the Staysail and Jib Halliards with their corresponding downhauls and noticed the falls for the Halliards are to be belayed to the fore fife rail.  However there aren’t enough belaying pins in the fife rail to tie these lines off.   To remedy this I drilled two additional holes in the rail and added two new pins.
 

 
The appropriate blocks were tied to the Fore and Jib Stays and the rigging was completed as detailed in the practicum.
 

 
Rigging the Staysail and Jib Halliard
 


 
I also started work on the signal flag that is rigged to the top of the main topmast.  For this flag stave I used a toothpick and filed it down to the appropriate thickness.  Added a parrel bead and tied the tan rigging line to it.  I also drilled the hole at the top of the main topmast for this rigging line.   Drilling this hole was a little nerve racking because I didn’t want to screw up the mast now that I was so close to finishing.  I wish I had remembered to do this while making the masts.  All went well however.
 

Don't worry about the subdeck details, just make sure your final details are located and centered, Its all covered by the deck planks anyway.
Ken

Well just about complete with the push boat.  I still have to install the screw.  I also worked on the deck equipment used to hoist the push boat but that work is not ready for prime time.

Well..  now I'm hungry.   

0.5 mm plank was painted in red and used to form gun port openings.

 

Thanks Steve. I appreciate the encouragement. Here's the deck house, planked in maple with an ebony top. This ebony top is bare wood just rubbed out with 400 grit paper and steel wool. I like this look a little better than the shinier finish on the forward companionway hatch cover. The rails are walnut and pinned on--otherwise I couldn't get them to sit up straight. I found that drilling the holes for the pins through those skinny little rails is best done SLOWLY by hand with a bit in a pin vise rather than with an electric drill. Next step is a set of doors and the companionway hatch cover. Thanks for looking.
 
Steve

Thanks Pete and J. Here's the last of the companionway shots, I promise. I made the sliding hatch cover out of ebony. It looks black in the pics, but it's really dark brown. It has shellac on it that's rubbed out with steel wool, but I might sand it again and leave it bare wood. All I have left to do on this piece is a handle for the hatch.
 
Steve

Here is a pair of doors on the companionway. They're supposed to stick up slightly over the top of the companionway in order to seal with the sliding hatch cover. I tried to file in a raised panel in the center of each door. Next comes the hatch cover that rides on the rails. Thanks for looking.
 
Steve

Two bitts.

Probably fewer gouges in parts as well from drill bits skipping along on their merry way.
 
Well, the deck houses are done. I know I've been posting a lot of pics, but please bear with me for just a couple more with the houses on the deck. I de-shined the cabin tops a little with 400 grit sand paper. From here I move on to bitts. (Sounds like I'm going to fall apart.) Thanks for looking patiently!
 
Steve

Thanks J. David, I used a foredom way back in the day at the jewelry bench. I remember the foot pedal being very easy to control.
 
Here's a hatch cover on the deck house. Still to go are raised panels for the doors. Thanks for looking.
 
Steve

It's time to give Shenandoah a pair of pumps. Sounds like she's going dancing... I wasn't overjoyed with the ones supplied with the kit, so after some research online I found a type that looked within the range of my abilities.
 
Here are the tubes made from a hardwood dowel, of course, and the brackets that attach to the sides of the tubes for holding the handles. The brackets are made from maple. It did a nice job not splitting on me while I worked it. These are the smallest ship parts I've made yet.
 
The handles will be quite long and thin--about twice as long as those supplied by the kit--so I'll use desert ironwood for them since you can carve it very long and thin and it won't break or split. Also, the brackets will be attached to the tubes with flat blackened brass straps. Thanks for reading.
 
Steve

Thanks Steve. Here are the pumps finished. I wasn't thinking too clearly when I drilled the discharge holes. These pumps are arranged for fun. Anyone working the starboard pump will get sprayed by the guy working the port pump, and vice versa. They would spray across the deck toward the opposite scuppers. Thanks for looking.
 
Steve

*blowingoffthedust*
 
... yep ...
 
*coff*
 
... here we go again ...
 
*wavingthedustcloudsaway*
 
... starter finished, now back to the main course :-)
 
Where have we been?
 

 
Okokok ...
 

 
... alright ...
 

 
... heavy partying ...
 

 
... with social games :-)
 
And what to do as reentry to the topic ?!?
 
...
 
...
 
...
 
...
 
... of course ...
 
...
 
...
 
...
 
...
 
...
 
...
 
...
 
...
 
... destruction !!!
 

 
I just realised, I never replaced the entry port and the side steps on the larboard side.
 
Cheers, Daniel