Ryland Craze

Hopefully these are the last preparations before entering the painting stage, but as often, there was one step back, before advancing. I had to remove the already installed internal framework and internal rear view mirror, because they would have interfered with masking the inside of the body later.

I finalized cutting the transparent air scoop vac parts with a pair of fine scissors, sanded them to fit and dry fitted them for drilling holes for the rivets. The first side, I drilled with a 0,6 mm DSPIAE drill bit, which tended to lift up the clear part, when drilling through. I changed to a Tamiya 0,6 mm drill bit for side two and got much better results. No lifting and dramatically less burr, which is a pain to remove with these clear vac parts.



When you compare the drill bits, the Tamiya is of the classic HSS style and angles, where the DSPIAE bit is like all the other PCB board drill bits and not good for drilling thin materials, as it "eats" into the material and leaves a lot of burr.



Cheers Rob

Mark,
Thank you for your reply regarding which plank  edge to bevel, including the last strake.   To change the subject, I have only visited England once, but didn't have the opportunity to see Ailsworth.  Thank you again.   Alfred Ellyson Ailsworth

Hi Alfred this is a really good question 👍
 
Planks are bevelled so that they contact their respective planks on each side tightly.  If you put a plank onto a hull just get a square edged plank and butt it up against the one that is fitted.  You will see that due to the curvature of the frames they will not meet tightly there will be a gap as they do not meet at 90 degrees.  So bevelling is the art of making them meet correctly and the bevel does change as the strake goes from stem to stern.  In practice though you will only need to be roughly right.
 
I only bevel one edge but I may be the odd one out here.  So working from the garboard plank upwards I would bevel the plank that meets it and leave the other edge square.  I would then bevel the edge on the next plank that meets that one and so on.  The very last strake of planks will have bevels on both sides.
 
Also I always make the last strake of planks somewhere near the middle of the ship.  So I start planks from the garboard upwards and also from the whale downwards and then meet in the middle.  I hope this helps  - Mark

Just completed false keel, bulkheads and sheer plank on scratch build  model of the  vessel Ellen W. .  Now lining off and preparing for planking in three bands.  As
a novice and after reading and videos, I am confused regarding beveling planks in order to have a better fit.  Please help.  Is  the garboard plank  to be beveled on the bottom edge next to the keel as well as the top edge.? Are the planks to be installed above the garboard moving  up toward the sheer be beveled on the top edge (toward sheer)or the bottom edge ( toward keel) of the plank.  Should beveling moving near the stern and bow be decreased?  Thank you for any assistance.
 

The tube segment that need deburring are .5 mm tube (.3 inner diameter) and are 4 mm long.  Is there a rotary cone bit small enough?  I can see using a rotary tool on the free end before cutting the segment, but any suggestions for holding the short tube to use a rotary bit on the second end once the segment is down to 4 mm?
 
thanks!

I hope you consider a build log for this?

I think that is the understatement of the month there sir  She looks fantastic!

Thank you Mark, Bug, Cisco, and John for your appreciation.
@ - Cisco, I am an admirer of your AVS build, and those three months were well spent, and it shows. Your planking is simply beautiful, makes mine look very average.
 
Post 27
Final sanding was done using various grade papers, primarily 320 al.oxide. It didn’t take long to achieve a smooth and even surface.

070

072

073

077

087
I think she has scrubbed up quite well.
 
I now return to the Square tuck.
 
B.E.
31/01/2025

A few have asked about size for Surprise.
Well, below is a comparison in size with Indy at the top, then Surprise, followed by Sphinx and bottom is Grecian (all 64th, of course)

At this point in the build, the cylinder head is to be built. First, I add the four spark plugs, seen here in silver.
 
 

 
Now, the pistons are fitted, with some light oil as lubrication. The manual tells you when this is to be added. You'll need to source your own lube, at least if you live in the UK, as it's omitted from the kits I've built.

 
The cylinder head case is now fitted, and the whole assembly bolted to the crankcase.

 
 
Of course, this engine will need two camshafts, and here they are, bolted in position and lubricated. When secure, the valve cover is installed. 


 
 
The control box is now bolted to the crankcase and the electric motor also fitted. The cables from this and the circuit are now routed into the control box.

 
The belt pulleys are now fitted. 


 
Setting up the engine timing is a breeze. These two gears need to be set as thus, with the two pips aligning. The lower gear just needs to have a pip aligned with a mark on the crankcase. With that satisfied, the drive chain is now added, along with the track and tensioner. I found the midway point to be good for setting up the chain tensioner, so the belt and everything moved freely.

 
Now the fan belt.

 
Followed by the crankshaft pulley and the accelerator potentiometer. The engine is now completed!


 
The conclusion and video will follow over the weekend...
 

The build starts with building the four pistons. These are quite simple and consist of the pushrod and piston heads, held in place with a steel pin and two circlips. These are also lubricated with a little light oil before assembly.
 

 
The pistons are then connected to the crankshaft.

 
This assembly is now fitted to the crankcase. At this point, I hadn't noticed that I'd put the crankshaft in the wrong way around, so you'll see it like this for a few shots. In fairness to me, the images in this manual do look a little muddy in places, and I there are some errors too with images being mirrored or numbered incorrectly. Having said that, the model is generally easy to build as the parts look quite distinct. Here you also see the sump, with the display feet fitted. 

Unlike the V8 I built, this model has sound, with the speaker in the sump. This is also where the battery hides out.

 
 
The exhaust system is now built up out of multiple parts that need to orientate correctly.

 
 
The electric motor is then fitted into its forward housing, along with its gear and fence. Once complete, the rear shell is then fitted, enclosing the electric motor.


It's now the turn of the water pump to be built. While this does have bearings and rotates, it's only representative here and will not be used to pump water!

A belt pulley is now built up, using more bearings.

 
 
This engine pulley is a little more complex, but is so engineered that it rotates very smoothly, and will of course be used to assist in the operation of this engine.


 
The air filter is merely decorative, but as this engine has one, it needs to be fitted. 

 
And this little unit contains a potentiometer. When installed, this will have the effect of increasing and decreasing the engine's revs, and therefore its speed. This needs to be set up in a specific way so that it operates from a neutral position.


 
 
The crankcase can now be bolted to the sump. It's here that you will need that modified hex key. 

 
......more soon.

L4 Engine - Teching - vie EngineDIY (Build Review)
Available from EngineDIY for $499.99
 

 
An L4 (straight-four engine, also referred to as an inline-four engine) is a four-cylinder piston engine where cylinders are arranged in a line along a common crankshaft. The majority of automotive four-cylinder engines use a straight-four layout, with the exceptions of the flat-four engines produced by Subaru and Porsche. Here, the layout is also very common in motorcycles and other machinery. Therefore the term "four-cylinder engine" is usually synonymous with straight-four engines. When a straight-four engine is installed at an inclined angle (instead of with the cylinders oriented vertically), it is sometimes called a slant-four.


A four-stroke straight-four engine always has a cylinder on its power stroke, unlike engines with fewer cylinders where there is no power stroke occurring at certain times. Compared with a V4 engine or a flat-four engine, a straight-four engine only has one cylinder head, which reduces complexity and production cost. 
Abridged from Wikipedia.
 
The kit
This is another heavy kit, this time packed into an almost bomb-proof high density card box that even Apple would be proud of. The lid comes off real slow to allow for the air to get in there! The packaging is very attractive, with all panels adorned with photos and data. EngineDIY also say this of the kit:
 
Product name: Inline four-cylinder engine model Material: aluminium alloy + stainless steel colour: blue Coloring process: anodizing Number of parts: 364+PCS Finished product size: 158.5*117*182mm Finished product weight: 1747g External power supply: DC 5V (USB cable charging) Lithium battery capacity: 500mAh Charging time: 2h Battery life: 30+min (when fully charged) Assembly time: 4h Skill level 4/5  

 
 
There are THREE parts trays in this kit, with all parts being snugly held in a laser slot, with the part number engraved adjacent to the part. It's nigh on impossible not to be able to find a part quickly. It also needs to be known that all of the nuts, bolts, washers, and a number of other specific kit parts such as piston caps, springs, bearings, etc. are to be located in one of TWO compartmented tubs. These have part numbers on the lid of each compartment, making it a breeze to find what you need. Some tools are also included, but I decided to use my Wera tool set mostly. One bolt requires a modified (cut down) hex key, and this is included in the kit.
 



 
A 72-page colour manual is included. This details the build in coloured illustration, along with text regarding the engine itself, and a complete parts chart.






 
More very soon...
 
 
 

Congratulations on finishing your Pram.  It is a nice looking model.

I’m not a specialist in anything anymore - a couple of times I was as a mathematician, but it was related to some rather obscure material! Now I just try to learn what I can, when I can. Putting my work on MSW and getting thoughtful comments and suggestions from people like you makes my days quite nice.
 
greg 

As I said, I am not a railway specialist, but was curious and checked a couple of German fora re. livery of German steam locomotives during WW2. It appear that locomotives on civil duty retained their livery, i.e. everything black except frames, buffer-beams, wheels and works red (the second box-art above). Locomotives requisited by the military would be painted grey and carry the official insignia, the eagle and swastika, rather than the wording 'Deutsche Reichsbahn' (first box-art above). The same would apply to locomotives built under the war programme (minus the insignia, when in civil service).
 
Locomotives with white trim on the wheel, second image from the bottom, almost certainly came from the former GDR or other Eastern European railways.
 
The last image is one in 'Photoanstrich'. The smoke-box is black, because the light grey paint wouldn't stand the heat.
 
The apparent variability of the black has less to do with the colour, but rather with the different levels of gloss due to soot, repairs etc. Most steam-engines in service look like that. 

I just like priming with the darker color because it seams to have a residual darkening effect on the lighter grey. As far as the color scheme, I had been more or less following the painting guide provided with the kit. There are two schemes shown, this one is more on the grey side (apparently WWII era):

I had followed the alternative scheme, containing more black and red, on the first BR86 model I made:

Apparently 775 locomotives of this class were built between 1928 and 1943 and there was some variation of paint (or is this just wear and tear?).

Several of the engines remain in museums today and offer a different look:

Ultimately, I'd like to set the two engines behind the Hobby Boss Dora in a pseudo-diorama type presentation representing the railgun being completed. I was thinking that the engines would look relatively 'fresh and clean' because they would be associated with an 'important' project and would help give understanding to the enormous size of Dora. But eventually, I'll put a small amount of weathering on to the two engines. At the same time, I didn't want them to be a focal point of the presentation so I didn't plan on going all out for details here. In fact, placing the BR86's by Dora is conjectural - if there were kits of the electric locomotives that positioned the railgun in use, I would have built them instead.
 
When I get to my Trumpeter 1:35 BR86 model, I should look more into the actual paint schemes! In the meantime a big thank you to you, Doreltomin, and Canute for comments and information related to the paint scheme!
 
Greg
 

Likewise, your log had good information about the steps that I'm just getting into.
 
I spent today's hobby time cutting some sanding blocks from scrap wood with a table saw. I will try to do the fairing process slowly and carefully, and not replicating my previous experience of having to create filler pieces after removing too much.

Breech Lines Not Breach
Today while typing Breach, I looked at the word, and thought, that it just didn’t look right. Sure enough, even though, spelling is not my weakness, in this case I missed it entirely. So it will be correct moving forward.
16 Cannon, and “breech” lines are in place and next step will be the out hauls.  These pics show my progress.
Please overlook the spare line on the starboard cannon.  I will have a talk with the crew about leaving things about on deck.😀

Thanks Andrew,
 
Life has been busy and DoK is progressing, albeit at a near glacial rate. 
 
Fitted the anchor rope, had to enlarge the hawse holes to get the rope through.
 
The woodwork on her masts and bowsprit is complete although they still need fittings and woldings added. 
 
In the meantime I was given Vanguard’s Sherbourne for Christmas which given her small size I’ll probably build between DoK and Speedy. 
 
Thanks for all the likes, apologies for the slow progress. 
 

Your Sherbourne is looking good.  We all have instances where we say "why did I do that this way".  There have been many times where I thought that I should have put more thought into doing a particular step on my model.

Welcome to Model Ship World Peter.  Once you start building your wooden ship model, you will have a lot of support from the members here on MSW.  The Nautical Research Guild has a motto "taint a hobby if you gotta hurry".  I have no doubt that you will do just fine in this hobby.

Thank you much, Patrick, Keith and Ryland
 
 

Welcome to Model Ship World Peter.  Once you start building your wooden ship model, you will have a lot of support from the members here on MSW.  The Nautical Research Guild has a motto "taint a hobby if you gotta hurry".  I have no doubt that you will do just fine in this hobby.

I did learn something useful, over and above to take it slow and be more careful.
 
In dry-fitting the bulwark parts, leaving aside the not-lining-up stuff, I was scratching my head about how to get glue on and then, in available working time, be able to get everything in the correct position and clamp up.  Clamping dry, I was finding it was taking too much time to clamp on at one end, adjust the engraved line, and get other clamps on.  I finally settled on dry-clamping into final position, which allowed me to adjust as needed, and then glue up.
 
I cut some little mdf blocks from scrap, then painted glue into the underside of the false deck and up against the inside of the bulwark (a bent paintbrush was excellent for getting the glue in there), and then put the block into place.  Worked great and no glue on edge of the bulwark.
 
I think the only thing I'll do differently with the "new" build will be to place the blocks also against a bulkhead to give three points of gluing instead of two.
 
Nick S

So as mentioned in my Indy log, I really wanted to get in my first experience with planking on something other than Indy.  So Sherbourne arrived and I got stuck in.
Suffice to say for now that a blunder has caused me to have to start over with replacement parts so far, which I ordered from Chris and which arrive today; and thanks to him for the terrific service.
The blunder is amusing; I wasn't upset about it at all, although I briefly felt like giving myself a swift kick in the rear.  In short, it was entirely self-inflicted.
 
Things progressed hunky-dory until I got to fitting the outer bulwark forms, which is when I realized the mistake I'd made previously.  I do have to say that I was charging through it and in a hurry to get to planking.  And therein lay the root cause of the blunder.
 
The mistake was actually during installation of the false deck.  In rushing along, the false deck seemed to slide down the bulkhead ears just fine, but I committed to glue without a proper test fit.  I had a hard time pushing the false deck down to seat.  If I'd taken the time to think, and having done so with Indy, I would have trimmed char from the bulkhead slots and done a proper test fit, which I know from other build logs and from Indy would have been just fine.
 
Instead, having put on glue (and even then I could have pulled the false deck up at that point), I bulldogged pushing it down.  Really pushed hard and loads of resistance in many places.  I finally thought I had it seated down properly (not bothering to check underneath especially) and moved on.  I did have to shave chips of ply that had sprung in way of the bulkhead ears as I'd been pushing down, but that seemed ok.
 
After doing the inboard counter and transom parts, I then moved on to the outer bulwark ply.  The bottom engraved lines on the bulwark parts that are supposed to be matched up at the level of the false deck just wouldn't match up.  If I adjusted in one place, others would be out of alignment, and pretty seriously off.  You may be able to see it from the pic below.
 
To make a long story short, I glued one on best I could get, then went to the portside to see if I could get a decent match, but no way.  The two bulwarks not only didn't fit relative to the false deck lines, but didn't match each other port/starboard.  And the portside part was way out of alignment if I lined it along with the forward end slotted properly into the stem.
 
It's only then, bright lad that I am, that I sighted along the stem to the stern and realized the twist in the hull, which may show from the pick below.
 
Ah well, live and learn.
 
Nick