Ryland Craze

Spent the evening sanding the starboard side of my gun ports.  I now have a really nice pile of sawdust building up.   I am not quite done sanding the outboard side of them yet.  Here are a couple close up shots of the outboard side of my gun ports after a little sanding. The aft end has not been sanded yet.
 

 
 
I am realizing that I probably should have framed in the rest before I started sanding. 

 
Section still unsanded.

 
 
On another note, I just ordered a bunch of 1/16x5/32 and 1/16x1/8 boxwood strips from Crown Timberyard.  I will make sure to let you all know how it looks when it comes in. 
 
As always, any feedback (good or bad) is welcome
 
 
Ken

Managed to get a few things done, got the rudder shaped and the pintles and gudreons made and installed, tiller mounted and the rudder painted out, also installed the oarlocks and the lift rings.  Started turning down the dowels for the bowsprit, gaff, boom, and mast. Just chucked them in the drill and used various sandpaper grits to taper...all went well till the mast...it literally blew apart broke in about 3 sections...it looks like the grain is just flaking away internally...not sure if I can salvage it or not?  THX for your interest, pics follow
J

I've faired so that a batten lies flat across all bulkheads.  Next is to set the tops of the port sills via the use of a batten that runs the entire length, top aligned with the upper reference lines.  Chuck warns they will not all line up and need minor adjusting.  I can get a fair run with some ref. lines above and some below the top of the batten.  Now for some assistance.
There is no upper reference line on the aft-most bulkhead, so I penciled one in at 24/32" above the lower one (approximate spacing of the preceding bulkheads).  See second photo.  At the end of the run of the batten,  if I use the second from aft, the batten would be quite a bit higher.  If I use the third from aft, it would be lower.  The penciled-in one is a compromise, but I'm not sure what is appropriate at the stern.  Any thoughts?
Maury

Thanks for all the like and comments.  If you see a problem or have a warning, PLEASE point it out.  They are easier to fix earlier in the process.  Rough fairing in process. Boy, does this make a lot of sawdust!  I taped up the stem and keel so I wouldn't damage them with all the sanding to be done.  In addition to checking the fairing with a thin batten, I checked the width of each bulkhead from the spine at the reference lines.  I added some vertical reference lines to the aft most bulkhead and checked there as well.  The sides can be fair, but still not the same from port to starboard (I made that mistake on my Emma C. Berry a few years back).  Several minor sanding adjustments and one bulkhead that needed building up by about 1/64".  Some 1/32" scrap bass is glued on the edge and will be sanded down to the proper level.  More checking along the keel then on to the next step.
Maury

Hi Everyone,
 
This is my first ever Wooden model ship build so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I dont really have much spare time so it may end up taking a while to get done...
 
Well i have first planked the hull and i used balsa filler blocks to assist me. However i am having a little bit of problems with the Walnut second planking i decided to plank over the gun ports and then drill/ cut them out with a sharp knife however this didnt really work so i have removed the planks as i was not happy with the result. Ive decided to replace the Walnut with lime wood as i now intend to paint the hull.
 
Anyway this is were i have gotten too..
 

Thanks Chuck.  It's all about learning techniques that work.  I've never edge bent a plank before, but since I'm working from your Cheerful plans, and have seen how well (and easy) you make it look, this will be my first.
Great discussion!!!
Maury

Well Chuck, you're in good company. Dean of plank of frame ship modelers Harold Hahn wrote that he never spiled a plank or needed a stealer strake.

Everything below the wale,   I did include the garboard......... I actually have a second planking draft that is slightly different and shows 21....this one is just more clear  to post,  not to confuse the situation.  There are also two deck plans.  All original but with slight differences.   The important thing to note however is that they are identical in showing no steelers and the one drop plank.
 
When I started planking,  I had two versions of my own plans ready to go....I found that after doing the math,  the 20 strake scheme was a perfect match to fit 3/16" wide planks mid ship in two belts.   Once the hull was lined off and I divided into two belts, below.   Each ten plank belt divided up into perfect 3/16" wide strakes at the center bulkhead.
 

 

 
The break at the square tuck divided the hull perfectly with ten strakes in each belt.   Whereas the one that showed 21 strakes would need a funky smaller fraction.    Its a lot easier to rip 3/16" wide planks and its a standard wood thickness to buy,  so I went with that one.
 
As a side note....I added the drop plank and the first two strakes in the first belt before I lined off the hull.  It just made it easier to do the lining off.  Thats why you can see them in the picture while I lined out the hull.

Planking with a minimum number of  - or no - stealers at all is quite possible and practical, except in the case of an extremely full, bluff bow. It is a matter of taking time to plan the planking layout and run of strakes before ever laying a single plank. Planking by the seat of one's pants will not end well!

Jan wrote:
 
has nothing to do with actual "real world" planking techniques. In the real world there are no planks wide enough to allow for the amount of spiling required in his method.
 
Of course, Chucks models look absolutely great, but in my eyes more than perfect, where at least my - beginners - strife is for real world authenticity, I mean, whats the point of making everything above the waterline look absolutely real up to the smallest detail, while the other half the ship (the under water section) is a fiction?
 
 
Jan...Not fiction at all.     
 
But I know folks say that steelers and drop planks are just fine and were used historically.   That is true....but the huge number of them you see on model ships and explained as the proper way to do it in many books and instruction manuals and practicums.   Its just a crutch.    So whatever the method.....a hull that looks like this is not something I find attractive or even historically accurate.  So I prefer to go for fewer and replicate the way its done on a similar contemporary model or shown in a contemporary draft from the same era.  Its just my preference.  
 
I have no intention on picking on the fellow who planked this hull below.   But its extreme steelers gone wild and if this is the way he (or you) wants to go its OK.  But I find many people using them and only because they find an example where one or two were used historically, and  it is just a short rationalization further to go ahead and use  5 or six  or even more at the bow and as many at the stern.  I disagree entirely.  Its just an easy fix and a crutch.    I just dont think its accurate or aesthetically pleasing.  This is in terms of what we were discussing earlier.  I will say this.   To plank the hull like this fellow did would probably take longer and be more frustrating than it would to just give lining out a hull a chance.  Cutting all of those weird shapes randomly etc.
 

 
One drop plank at the bow at most...and no stealers at the stern.   That is what I will always shoot for.    I think its more accurate and looks better.  Not that you wouldnt be able to scour the web for an example or two that is contrary to my opinion.   I just think its an excuse to continue to use them willy nilly and in huge numbers rather than learn how to spile and plan a hull's planking.   Again,  just my opinion.  And its Ok.   If folks are happy with that, fine,  But I just dont buy the argument that this image above is accurate in any way...even if you could find one example that might look a bit like it.
 
I would rather not get into a lengthy debate about it either because its one of those circular debates.  Its just a matter of choosing what you are willing to live with on your project...without trying to force the idea that it must be accurate because one image exists showing something maybe a little similar so...... Then they feel better about using them and wont bother trying to figure it out beyond that.   I have had countless discussions on the matter actually.  Its more complex than this because it depends on the country of origin,  the year,  the shape of the bow and hull etc.   There is no one size fits all, what kind of ship.........  An apple bowed whaler will certainly be planked differently than a sharper cutter or frigate built 75 years earlier and from different countries.   Dutch practice vs. English practice.  There is just too much to consider for a simple answer..
 
But I am so lucky because I have this below.   Its the planking expansion...just a portion of it so I dont violate any copyright rules...and its for the Cheerful.  So I am very comfortable saying its reasonably accurate and the actual ship was closely replicated.    Its not fiction at all.  The draft shows exactly 20 strakes below the wales.   One drop plank only,  no steelers.  I have no idea how they would have done this in actual practice but there are plenty modeling techniques that can achieve this result.   That is if its something you would have fun learning how to do.
 

Actually not Jan...The results are pretty accurate, and its not fiction at all.   Its just the method I am using is one that is for modeling.   Those contemporary models are very accurate to what the ship's really  looked like.   What I meant was that I have no idea how the original ship builders achieved the results.   Its not really important to me.   Its the end results that I am trying to replicate.  
 
Notice the crazy bending below.   I am sure they started with wider planks....then they applied some crazy bending as well.   but the results are the same....no crazy pie-shaped steelers.   
 

 
Chuck

fortunately I havent had time to finish those last five strakes so I just took some pictures.
 
Here is a staight plank as if I were going to place it on the hull.  It could be at the bow or at the stern.   Most beginners would try to force this into place and the top edge of the plank would lift off the hull and not sit flush against the bulkheads.  Some fight with it using pins and clamps and it gets messy.   Holding it without bending like shown reveals the gap .  Note the widest point of that gap.
 

 
Mark this location as the center of the gradual curve you will need.
 
 
In the next picture,  after bending,    you can see how nice it fits and how it is flush against the bulkheads.  No forcing needed.  Its a perfect fit.    Note the dot I marked on the plank for the apex of the curve or the widest part of the gap..You could use the compass method or the tape method to find the exact curve,  but I prefer to eyeball it like this.   Visually its easy to see the curve after a little practice.   I always over bend slightly.
 

 
Now all I have to do is bevel it a bit and darken the seem as I did in the video and glue it on.

Excellent video Chuck.  That answered many of my questions.   BTW, could post these videos into the Planking, Framing area as their own topic?  They shouldn't get lost in the build log area.
 
Edit:  Or maybe better yet, in the database????

Its all spiling......basically instead of cutting it from a wider sheet, I am achieving the same spiled curve with bending alone.   Either way would work.  I did it a bit of both on the Winnie.   Its all the same thing.  The part you should not get stuck on is how to achieve the proper curve and shape.  Either cutting it or bending it will work.  The important thing to get from this is that you will require a curved and tapered plank in the end before you adhere it to your hull.   Thats the important part.  No force fitting will ensue.   You can try and find any method to achieve that shape you find comfortable.
 
If you line off your hull first and have a plan,  and then have your planks properly curved and shaped before you glue them into position.  You are good to go.   If you also start with just one drop plank at the bow (just under the wale)....you have a really good chance of making a nicely planked hull with some planning and pre shaping.  Its usually what I see on contemporary models.  I just try and copy that.    No steelers at the stern.
 
Once you get past the habit of using a straight plank, all the same width, and trying to glue it onto the hull, forcing it into position,   it will naturally result in a hull with fewer steelers and drop planks.   It just goes a lot easier.   Rather than use steelers at the stern,   just use planks that gradually get wider than they are at mid ship.
 
The only way to try this when I was breaking my bad habits,  was to plan it all out ahead of time.  Copying the layouts on contemporary models.
 
You can use the compass method to find that correct curve,   You can use the tape method to find that curve.  Or you can eyeball it based on the gap as I did in the video.   Once you have the curve...you could cut it from a wider sheet, or just bend it.  You could heat it with a hair dryer or use one of those bending irons.   You could use water or you could use ammonia.  There are many methods and I have used them all.  But in the end they all achieve the same pre-shaped plank before it gets glued on the hull.   Having that "light bulb" moment and realizing what shape you need is the important part in my opinion.
 
Just to let you know,  I prefer the method shown in the video.  That is pretty much what I do for all my planking now.  No water...just heat.  Bending and not cutting it from a wider sheet.
 
 
 
Chuck

Well done, Chuck! Now there will be no excuse to see sloppy planking from anywhere in the New Jersey area.

Fabulous, Chuck. It's a pretty simple technique to do but not live in front of twenty guys! Your club is lucky to have a mentor like you.

Part two was just some questions and answers.  But I was a little rushed.   Usually we dont have enough time to devote what is needed for the whole presentation.  But here it is anyway.
 
I am not sure if it adds anything more to part one.....but here it is.   Its hard to hear the questions being asked.   Most of the conversation in the middle revolves around someone asking me about a hull with many drop planks and or stealers as described in another authors practicum...just putting them in wherever and whenever.  Hopefully that will make the audio make more sense.
 

Looking good keith!!!  
 
One of the guys taped my planking session at my club meeting.  Its freaky to see myself on a video like this.  No laughing.   But It shows how I taper and cut a plank to match my plan from lining out the hull.   I wish the camera was behind me but I hope its still worth posting.
 

 
Chuck

Slowly coming along.

William M. “Mike” Lonnecker. 
 
I am a retired engineer with a degree in Mechanical Engineering (BSME) from the University of Kansas. I worked in Texas and California as a Program Manager and Project Engineer in the Defense and Aerospace Industry until retiring in 2002. I currently reside in Poway (San Diego) California with Sandy, my wife of 44 years.
 
My interests have included woodworking, flying sailplanes, sailing, hot rodding and modeling all types of “vehicles”. I have been a student of design, modeling and building projects since completing my first plastic model car at age 6 or 7.  I now prefer to work on 1: 48 scale ship models of the late 18th century and am building my fourth ship model, The FLY, using David Antscherl’s Swan series of books.
 
I am a member of the San Diego Ship Modelers’ Guild and serve as Guild Master (President). I am also an active member of the Ship Modelers Association of Fullerton (SMA) and, of course, am a Director of the NRG where I am also chair of the mentor program and am currently mentoring one member. I enjoy sharing my modeling and machining skills with other modelers and regularly give demonstrations at club meetings and invite other members to my shop to work out difficult problems or aid new modelers with their projects.  My MSW screen name is Mike.
 

Toni Levine
 
Like so many of us, I started building models when I was a child.  The first model I remember building was a Monogram F6F-5 Hellcat which was originally given to my brother but it seemed that the “girl” had more aptitude for this than he did.  My first ship models were small Scientific carved hull models which I built during high school.  Model building was then shelved for several years while I completed my education (BS and MD from the University of Illinois) and residency training (Northwestern University).  My first plank-on-bulkhead model was Peregrine Galley by Mantua.  It is my only model built with a full coat of sails.  Over the years, my projects progressed from out-of-the-box kits to kit-bashing and finally scratch building.  My current project is Atalanta, a Swan-class sloop built in the fully framed style popularized by David Antscherl. 
 
I have been a physician since 1980 and specialize in otolaryngology (ear, nose and throat).  Like so many of us, my career prevents me from spending much time building ships.  I am a member of the Nautical Research and Model Society of Chicago and have been a member of the NRG since 1989 and a Director since 2013.  I live in the Chicago area with my husband.  My other interests include gardening, water gardening and home brewing.  My MSW screen name is tlevine.
 

Phil Roach
 
I have practiced law since 1988 and have had a private law practice in Bonita Springs since 1994. I graduated with a Bachelor of Arts Degree from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in 1985 and then attended Campbell University School of Law where I received my Juris Doctorate (J.D.) degree in 1988. Following graduation I moved from my hometown of Fayetteville, N.C. to become a full time resident of Southwest Florida. I belong to the Collier County Bar Association and the Florida Bar. I have been married to my wife Marina since 1988 and we have two children, Nicholas and Elizabeth.
 
I am an active member of the Rotary Club of Bonita Springs Noon and am currently serving on the Board of Directors. My prior service to the Club includes holding the position of President, Club Rotary Foundation Committee Chairman and I have served on the Board of Directors for various terms over my more than 20 year membership in the club.
I am also an active member of the Southwest Florida Ship Modelers’ Guild and I currently hold the position of President. I also served as liaison to the Nautical Research Guild for the Regional Conference previously held in Fort Myers, Florida.
 
I enjoy American history and its maritime heritage. My modeling interests are sailing ships and lately, that interest is gravitating backwards in time to vessels of the Revolutionary War period, vessels of the Colonial era, and the vessels of exploration of the North American Continent. Although my full time practice of law forbids me from modeling as much as I would like, I very much enjoy the research.  My MSW screen name is roach101761.
 

The Board of Directors of the NRG has decided it would be a good idea to let our members know a little about ourselves.  As you will see, your current Directors and Secretary come from diverse backgrounds and have varied interests.  Some of the names you will recognize, others you will not.  Even if a name is unfamiliar to you, please know that this is a hands-on Board and each Director contributes a substantial amount of time and sometimes money to the Guild, time that would otherwise go towards our passion of model ship building.

Thanks Bob,
 
As I've said your upgrade really illustrates what's possible with the kit and hopefully the build log will show what the kit is. 
 
My concern with the kit after the corrections are made is quality control at Expo. Chuck has seen "issues" creeping into the his kits through Expo as time moves on. Unfortunately at some point I can do no more to influence the product.
 
I have been discussing with Expo the "next project" and have it down to two possibilities for a new kit. We should have a decision very soon and I can turn my attention to that. 
 
As always I'm available to help anyone with the ESSEX,  but I'll also be very happy to move on...............
 
Sam

Thanks for all the likes and comments.  The windlass is finished.  Only one goof.  Can you spot it?   The holes for the handles on the two outer pieces are out of alignment with those on the center piece.  When you assemble each barrel, it would be good to start each one with either the solid or holed face lined up with a square side of the axle and keep it constant.  Since the two outer pieces are the same, I don't think I have to take it apart.  Warning...some of the pieces are VERY SMALL.  It's a great addition to the Cutter Cheerful plans.
Maury