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good evening everyone
thank you for comments likes
 
day 28 1st parts off keel, prow, stern post 
 outer layers for transom and upper gun ports
 and more gun port fairing
 
also a lot of deck fittings are being made up between planking etc, but i am trying to avoid messing my log up to much

I have the 'John Smith SHALLOP".  It appears to be a good representation based on the reproduction in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  I have ordered, but not yet received, the Oseberg Drakker.  The laser etchings on the bow and stern look superb.  So far, I am happy with the quality of the SHALLOP.  The instructions are a bit light on verbiage, but oherwise complete.  Email responses from "Pavel" have been quick (although so far I have only dealt with Denis...not Pavel).
 
    As noted above, shipping is pricey.  Another issue is that it takes a long time to get the package,  It took over a week for them to send the package and several weeks to arrive.  Part of this is due to the war.  IIRC, this is a small operation so they only crank out a few kits at a time.  It is even slower when bombs are dropping around you and knocking out your electricity.  Also, it is my understanding that there is no commercial air currently in Ukraine, so everything has to go by ground until it gets to a place with air.

Second time around…
 
A bit of a delay on the model due to a bout of Covid…it went ok for me but a week disappeared.  🤒
 
Once I got back to the workbench I finished the second planking and, while waiting for glue to dry, continued with the forecastle deck.  Finished sanding the hull today.  It turns out that I'm getting pretty good at installing planks incorrectly! 😝


I have a few repairs on a couple of corners and I'll fill a couple of small gaps with sanding dust I collected.
Clear skies and sharp tools, everyone!
- Gabe

Thanks Glenn for the sage advice. Gun ports is something I’ve never done before, and it’s quite a challenge. I’ve been looking at build logs, including yours, for ways to get them ship shape. I’m having a lot of fun with this build and it’s teaching me a lot for when I get to my Winnie. One thing I really like about Cheerful, is the amount of bulkheads, I think it made fairing easier to get a nice flow. 
 
Also, just for giggles I put the stern parts on the hull to see what’s it going to entail. I can already see that there’s a lot of room to mess things up. Again, this is a first for me. 
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

That is a stunning stern Glenn. I just sat and admired your wonderful workmanship!

I looked at this, your latest post, from an offline position. I thought it would be just rude not to immediately log in and offer my “crikey that’s outstanding” comment. It really is super work.
I know you can take great photo’s, which they are, but you can only show us what’s in front of you. You present a high bar indeed. Lovely stuff.
Thank you
Paul

Transom & Stern Near Complete
 
A short update.
 
The windows (or lights) have been sitting on my padded shelf for a long time, waiting for this moment. There is nothing special about installing them, all the readiness work in creating, measuring, and fitting their frames was done long ago with the installation of the stern frames and later with the transom and its associated work.
 

The challenge of this task was to install the very nicely scaled, but as a consequence very fragile, boxwood windows without breaking them using the very minimum of PVA glue. Much of the frame shows of course, so only a very small amount of glue in the very edge of the corners works.
 
Following a lot of hold my breath moments, well more specifically five such moments, and without breaking anything next up was the acetate used as window glass. For this I used Liquitex Acyrilic Matt Medium. It takes little to hold the acetate and the medium dries clear, still I applied it only to the corners of the window.

Finally I added the sills below the windows to complete the transom interior. Using a ¼ by 1/32 strip of Yellow Cedar these require some work matching up the angles and lengths required. I did all the cutting and fitting before the windows were added to have more working room and less stress working around installed windows. Only minor adjustments, with WOP added before installing, were needed for the final fitting.

And with that my transom and stern are complete for now. There is a railing to add to top off the stern frames later in the build (I’ve already used the template to cut these to the proper height), below that rail the work is done.
 
Thanks for stopping by,  your likes and comments always appreciated. I’m off to continue Chapter 5.

Moving along, I added the extension piece to the top of the rising wood. This establishes the proper height for the wing transom. While I was at it, I placed a stop behind the keel to register its exact position relative to the drawing. I made it to the same angle as the stern post to prevent any marring of the wood.

Square Frames (initial setup)
It wasn't long after I started to make the first frame that I realized I had a problem. At the larger scale some of the floors end up being quite long. In order for the end mill to cut the scarph joints cleanly the wood must be held firmly near the cut. Too much movement could result in chip out or even chunks of wood being torn away. As you can see here, the initial setup was far from being ideal.

Being a newbie when it comes to milling, I reached out to both Mark and Greg for some expert advise and a little brainstorming. They were very helpful with their ideas and suggestions. In the end I went with a Sherline tilt table which is predrilled at the factory for attaching the milling vise. It has an angle gauge in one degree increments as well. Thanks, guys!

Mike

The sheer plank and inwales look like they are almost perfect. Not sure what will go off the rails later. 
 
Page 15 says check now, widest point should be 3 3/4 wide. Mine is 3 5/8. I think he's saying it should not be wider than 3 3/4. 3 5/8 is the widest build mold, not sure how you could get 3 3/4 out if it anyways. The thwarts should fit at 3 5/8 with some trimming. Its all to late now. Not sure what could be adjusted at this point anyways.
 
Now I'm stopped for the night. 
 

 

Hello builders, we all think of different ways to accomplish our needs. Here  is a small example I’m going to share.
 

 
I cut the shape of the molds on the build board in a small box to make a stand for the work inside the hull.
 

 
I’ll be honest the steps after the planking have had me out of my comfort zone. I left off bending and cutting the floor board cleats. I was supposed to use 3/16”x 1/8” stock. I looked, picked ,soaked ,bent, cut and glued the 3/64”x1/8” stock.
 

 


I wonder how  that’s going to work for the floor boards? I can’t wait to see.
 

 
I’m going to temporarily stick the floor boards on so I can see if I can recover without backing up.
 
 
 I had to shorten all the boards for them to rest on the half size cleats. I think I can live with the change. Now wondering what I’m going to use for the rub rails. 
 

 
I’m no different than everybody else wondering why both boards for the mast step have holes. I just glued them both and plugged the bottom with a cleat that helped me place it between the frames.
 

 
 

 

 

 
Not my favorite tool but careful biting one tooth of the saw to slowly cut through the inwales.
 

 

 

 
I used two of the sides of a plank sheet to make the rub rails. I put the factory cut edge down and the uneven edge at the top so I cut it down level.
 

 

 
The hull is ready for some color.
 

 
 
That’s all the progress for the last week, I did find a decade old Mindwest display cramped between other materials at my local country hardware store.
 

 
They had no idea they even had it.
 
 

Hi Cisco
Nice work all round on your AVS. It brings back memories as I built the same kit years ago. Some differences though...
 
I used Bob Hunt's practicum which was really good especially for the rigging which I'd never done before. I have no idea if you can still get that.
I didn't care much about the second planking as I was always going to paint the hull.
I replaced all the kit rope with Morope and all the blocks with Warner Woods West. Both were vastly superior to the kit offerings back then which were complete rubbish. Both Morope and Warner don't exist anymore but you have got Syren Models now which are even better.
I also replaced the deck planking which has now weathered off to a really nice tone but I can't remember what timber I used - holly? The upper deck is a New Zealand timber - matai - which I cut from a veneer sample that I had at the time.
I kit bashed a few other bits too - particularly the deck fittings.
 
There are photos of my build here on MSW but no log as such.
 
AVS builds into a spectacular model with its long bowsprit and raked mast. Uncased, it still gathers dust in our dining room but I give it a clean every now and then.
 
I will follow your progress but my hazy memory probably won't be of much use to you.
 
Cheers,
A
 
 

Ok, who ever thought that gun ports on model ships was a good idea should be hanged from a yardarm! I’m a pretty good modeler, but gun ports have brought me to my knees. They’re a whole lot more work than I anticipated. I had to tear out some sills (only 2) and several port uprights. Lots of lessons learned! Stay tuned!
 
Best Regards …. Rick

The bottom frame instructions and tick strips are horrendous. 
 
The top long tick strip, with bow and arrow starts at the forward part of the dagger case. 
 
The shape of the bottom frames makes it clear they are to far forward or to far aft when placed wrong. This took a bit of marking and testing to see where they went. Looking ahead at some pictures helped show when I had it completely wrong. A tad more detail or tying together some notes would certainly help someone new, or someone experienced. 
 
I looked at the inwales for many minutes. I knew of the issue I had with the Dory with getting them placed, shaped, and cut to size. I didn't see this trick possible with the Dory at the time. Now they can be shaped, dry and be ready to cut and trim into place without changing size! Wood expands when wet, shrinks when drying. When I cut to fit a part on the Dory when it was wet, when I went to glue it in it was 1/16 to short. I don't want that to happen again. 
 
That was a good place to stop for the night. 
 

 

 

Mount the dagger board vertical. Ok. Lets see if we can extend that vertical so we can see it. I'd say, thats close enough. 
 
The marks in the hull are from the framing tool. I wet them with a dab from the tip of my finger the popped right back out to level. Cleaned up the char transfer at some point later one. 
 

 

The skeg and bilge keels are easy enough. I used a piece of 220 pictured, to shape the skeg. The bilge keels only needed cleaning up and they looked good. I marked both sides about where they should go, not much for exactly where they should go that I could find in the instructions. I used tweezers for the first time to hold them and place them with a bead of glue. The bead of glue is spread and shaped with a #11 blade knife. I can place a good bead right in the center and clear up edges before its even placed. Then can get the squished out glue cleared up quick wit the back end of a #11 blade. The glue balls up and peals off. Hard to to explained there is a magic point its like rubber, not liquid, not cured. 
 

 

 

The bow and stern transoms turned out nice. A bit of fill on the stern were I added the spacer on the stern transom knee. 
 
The sheer planks ended up what looks like exactly where they should be. Pure dumb luck. Even more amazing they are the same. I never even looked at the spacing or how it grew. The planks have some gaps and spaces viewed from the bottom. The bevel edge looks great on the inside. Skills learned during the Dory construction. 
 

 

Whiles stuff dried I started the dagger board case. I had to wait to glue it until I could shape the bottom on the center plank shape. Wasn't much of a times savings getting it ready. But it made me stop touching the drying wood for a few minutes. 
 

 

 

The wood is so well behaved. It just sits here in perfect shape ready to get glued in place. A small bead of glue from one end to the other. By the time I got to the last 2 planks I had this down to a science. This being meant for training, worked very well to train me on the wetting and shaping of wood. 
 

 

No rubber bands yet. The wood just sits here and drys, it shrinks a little over time so it needs a nudge back in place. 
 
The stern and bow are looking good. Small error at the bow, the glue set and it wasn't worth the effort to get it centered. I even missed my line. 
 

 

 

Another brave look inside. 
 

 

One more round without rubber bands. The wood wetting method I'm using is making easy work of the planks. They stay at the shape of the bend and almost put themselves in place. 
 

 

 

 

Training wood with water. Getting ready to dunk the next two pieces. 
 
The rabbit cuts are easy with a needle file. The diamond coated needle files work very well. 
 

 

 

 

A brave look at how its going on the under side. 
 

Moving on to the garboard planks. After wetting the planks they dry at least 2-3 hours so they stop changing size. If glued when wet I imagine they would pull the shape all over the place. The first rabbit cuts for the planks occurs on the garboard plank. 
 
My plank holding method is quickly running out of options. The garboards will be ok to hold this way, the second strake plank and the sheer plank need a different holding method. Maybe.