Ryland Craze

Just bought a set of 4 from Amazon UK for £5.99.
 
They look real useful so thanks for that tip!

Adding plastic filler to the tops of helicopter pontoons to hide the seams and make them flat and flush.  Also began the helicopter landing structure.  Taking my time and enjoying the journey.

Thanks, Druxey! Of course, with a paper model, one must paint (unless it's just a vehicle for a wooden finish). So, that has me wondering if the Speedwell would have the same color scheme as Wolf. I would make sense, assuming this Wolf's color scheme is correct or reasonable.
 
And what about the frieze pattern this model has under the caprail and at the stern?
 
Of course with Speedwell, I'd need a whole new figurehead and carvings, so that's a big issue there for a modified kit model.

Hi Greg, at 1/72 scale, I've found the spars to be very thin and light and the rigging lines to be very fine and a bit complicated for my fat fingers. With the card stock being softer than wood, I'm a little worried about ruining what has otherwise turned out to be a very nice model.
 
However, your reference to Speedwell has put bug in my head! I'd notice how similar the HMS Wolf model is to Speedwell, but I never followed up to see if the two were related until you just brought it up. Now, I understand they were sister ships.
 
This has me wondering about taking up the challenge of converting an HMS Wolf kit into an HMS Speedwell. 🤔
 
It would require a redesign of the deck layout, which means that the laser-engraved decks can't be used, and some parts would have to be fabricated. But, the main issue is that for an HMS Wolf to an HMS Speedwell conversion to have real value, I think it would have to be fully rigged.
 
If I did that, I'd probably also want to complete the rigging of this HMS Wolf for comparison. 
 
Hmmm...

I’m never sure what’s better, the quality of your build or the depth of your logs. I do agree they are of benefit to us all. Well done as always BE!

I have now dipped the pins in a dark oak stain which I think tones them better with the model and provides a range of subtle shades.

4811a
An original pin is second from the right. (excuse the working detritus)
 
Working on the thimbles now, modifying the Pendents of tackles, I think they will be 👌
 
Hard to imagine from even a short time ago such fine detail on items so small.
 
Cheers, Chuck.
 
B.E.

Hull is now in primer so I can see all the "goobers" and take care of them.  At the moment, I'm fitting out the main deck level of the forecastle as I won't be able to access that area once the raised forecastle deck is fitted.  

Finally received saw blades from Malco after a long wait. After thanking them I received this email.
 
"Dave ,You’re welcome. Martindale deserves the credit on this one.
On future quotes contact Bill Pavlik or Mike Jensen at Martindale Electric for pricing and delivery.
      Thanks, Greg"

Just checked them out, also listed as "phone screen clamp", think I'll get a set of 8 ($21 US). 
 
Thanks for the tip!

Bought these clamps from ama zon last week. They were 33CAD for 8 of them. The jaws have soft pads and they open to about 15mm. I like them for jobs where you need uniform pressure applied as opposed to spring clamps that may skew the parts.
 

Thanks GrandpaPhil!
 
Following up, the original builder's widow has seen the photos posted here and is very happy and feels her late husband would be very happy with the final model. And, I think we're figured the final disposition for this model.
 
I got this stuff through an estate sale that was facilitated by someone at Crystal Basin Cellars, a winery near Placerville, CA. They also have a stand and case that was originally purchased by the builder for this model. The plan is to put the model in that case and stand and display it at the winery. There, it will be taken care of and can be viewed and enjoyed by others. Gives me an excuse to go up there and visit the model, and maybe come home with a nice bottle of wine or two!
 
Probably won't happen until after the Summer or possibly after a miniatures show in Santa Clara in October. So, for now, it's in a case to keep it clean and protected.

To those who HAVE posted, the issue is with the content provider, not the journal. It would seem to be intermittent. 
 
For example, I've logged in first time, with no delay. When an issue is made 'subscription only', it's one click which does this for the entire membership, so it's not an individual thing I need to do for each single member. 
 
Please be patient with this as we simply can't control any issues with the content provider. 

Here are the upper frame locator pieces, two mdf parts on each side that get clipped into the former at the bow and then into grooves on each bulkhead, I used a few rubber bands and some clamps to keep them securely in place while the glue dried.
Now that these have been installed I need to start masking off the keel and other parts so I can paint the former and all bulkheads flat matt black below the level of the gundeck so nothing can be seen behind the framing, or at least make it as invisible as possible.
 

Started working on the struts -- fourteen pieces each so far.

They do look really nice.
 
Harpy is also looking good.

Thank You...they look wonderful.  Yes they are a bit on the lighter side...but it is easy enough to go darker with some stain.  Just give them a little dip.  It is however impossible to go lighter so hence the shade of all my boxwood 3d printed parts.  I am glad you find them acceptable and versatile.  How are those thimbles working for you?
 
Chuck

Post 90
Another little packet of wonderments
Eights days from order another little packet has arrived from across the pond.
Amongst the contents are a supply of Chuck’s new 1:64 scale Resin belay pins.
I have been keen to see how these fit Harpy, and you might say I’m highly delighted.

4777a
These pins slot into place as if made for the kit, and in an instance have made all other kit provided Belay pins at this scale, obsolete.

4779a
These are fitted as supplied without any colouring, but could be darkened if required.
On my build they won’t be used for their designed purpose as I’m not rigging her, but they do look good in the racks.

4789a
I did do a strength test on the pin and they performed just fine.
More likely to pull the rack off the bulwark before the pin breaks.
 
Thanks Chuck, a great job.👍
 
 
B.E.
17/06/2025

Post 89
Now for the tricky bit -Topmasts
The kit version Topmasts are simplified but will still take some careful work using 6mm dowel. There is tapering  and creating the flared hounds, and a clean rectangular head.
 
Accurately shaped topmasts are the most complicated masts to make because they have both square and octagonal lower sections, a tapering round mid-section, rising to flared hounds, and a rectangular head.
Additionally sheaves set at a diagonal angle are required in the heel.
 
I do happen to have a couple of topmasts I made earlier during the course of my Pegasus build.
These were made to Steel’s specifications, and again by luck closely match the kit sizes.

007
The Topmast drawn out and prepared for shaping on a ‘V’  cradle.
Square stock is used throughout, it is easier to round the section between the lower mast cap and the Topmast hounds, than create the non round sections from dowel.

028
The lower section showing the square and octagonal detail and the Top rope sheaves.

029
The head section detailing the hounds.

025
The completed Topmasts.

4744a

4739a
I had to adjust them slightly to fit Harpy, the critical area being the fit between the fid hole created by the crosstrees and trestletrees.
In reality the Topmast should slide up through this section using the Topropes.
 
The kit has the Topmasts at the same length for both Fore and Main. This follows the Steel table for a 200 ton Brig.

4740a
The masts I have used  are based on a 300 ton sloop where the Main Topmast  is slightly longer by around 12mm.
Harpy is a Brig sloop, and in my version I have gone more Sloop than Brig, based on the vessel weight.


4748a
As it happens the Fore Topmast matches the Kit plan drawings. The extension at the bottom is the block below the heel, which has the lower Toprope sheaves.
 
Onwards…
 
B.E.
16/06/2025

What a nice looking model, Clare.
Suggestion: make your own silkspan "draped" ensign. It's a lot more work but worth it, especially for a non-rigged model like yours. I just did one for my latest, a gun brig (attached quickie shop pic).
BTW: really nice baseboard, did you make and finish it? I like it. Please tell me it's not made of paper!🤨

Looks great as-is, but I'm sure you'd make it look great with rigging, too.

Also, I like the way this model looks so much that I'm afraid of ruining it when I get into the rigging. 
 
I quickly made a flagstaff and mounted the kit's flag. Also, started looking at building up the stern lantern.
 
In the meantime, the Wolf makes a fine display...
 

I've since given the flag a shot of matte clear lacquer to take some of the sheen off of it. If it bothers me enough, I'll just print my own flag, as that seemed to work pretty well on the yacht Mary model
 
Note that I haven't placed the deck pumps. They're done and ready to be mounted, but to prevent damage to them, I chose to leave them off. I may just tack them into place like I did the officer figure, so they can be removed should I eventually decide to rig.
 
Regarding rigging, though this is more lightly rigged than a three-masted square rigger, like a frigate, those larger ships have larger masts and yards, and I think they may actually be easier to rig, at least for fat fingers. 
 
Thoughts?
 
I'm tempted to take one of my 1/72 scale Shipyard frigate hulls this far, and see about rigging that. And, even if it doesn't go beyond this stage, it makes a pretty nice display model. And, without the masts, yards, and all, it requires a MUCH smaller case and takes up that much less room in the house to display... 🤔

I know most of you folks are "stick and string" enthusiasts but am curious if anyone is interested in more modern vessels.  Rather than watch TV in the evenings I've been slowly working on a potential 1/48 kit of a WW2 Higgins 78' PT boat.  Structurally, it will be like most of the later kits I've done for BlueJacket - laser-cut planked hull built with the Hahn method, resin and britannia parts, etc.   It will be an early boat with tubes and can be built as either a Mediterranean or Pacific boat.

Well, we finished up the Whaleboat Davit kit today, so it is now available.  It includes laser-cut parts (davit sections, deck section, cradles, and ladder rails), Britannia sheaves and blocks, strip wood for planking the bulwark, rigging material, full-size plans, and an instruction manual. Scale matches our New Bedford Whaleboat.

Conclusion
Out of all the engines I've built so far, this is by far one of the easiest in terms of design and accessibility for the various fasteners that inevitably go into awkward places. I do think I'd have liked the LEDs to have been a little brighter, but they do show up well in subdued light. If helicopters are your thing, then this is most definitely one to add to the collection, especially anyone who liked the Black Hawk. Great kit, easy assembly, and very rewarding. 
 
My sincere thanks to EngineDIY for the sample you see here on MSW. To buy direct, click the link at the top of the article.