Ryland Craze

Here we go on the next build the Sailing Pram. This is my second ship build. So far I am up to cleaning up the outside of the hull. I figured it was a good place to get the log started, plus I have some questions.
 
This kit certainly has you up your game. You've got keep a close eye on many things for it to stay true. 
 
Let's start with a picture of the transom. I was a little mixed up because the knee on the aft transom reaches higher up than it does in the photos. I checked some build logs and they matched mine so I moved on.
 

 
Getting everything cleaned up and ready to plank. I didn't have a lot of confidence in the the frames staying square so I added some supports. The transom mount on the base also allowed it to rotate a little so I added the other support you see in the front right of the photo. I don't have a photo of it but drilling the hole in the bow transom knee went well. I started a little smaller and slowly. It came out clean but it's just a tiny bit off center. Darn close though, I'm happy with it.
 

 
 
Lining up the center plank.
 

 
Cutting the sloping rabbet on the back of the plank for the fit at the transom. That was an exercise for sure. Tried many methods, files, sandpaper, finally resorted to more or less "shaving" off the bevel with a sharp #11 blade. And the instructions say 1/3 of the thickness of the board, Hahaha. I went a little deeper because of the overhang, no point in the end being 1/3 deep if it gets trimmed off and farther back it's not quite as deep. That's why it's a little deeper. They did improve the more I did!
 

 
 
Somehow when sanding the bevel on the aft transom I lowered the height of the notch at the center so after the center plank was attached the transom knee was hanging in the air. I added a sliver of wood underneath neat after tracing the shape of the spare transom knee they provided. It should look ok after some cleaning up.
 

 
 
Planking...
 
My notes on planking. This boat planks up slowly. Getting the planks where they are supposed to go and keeping the hull flat on the forms and the transoms level with the board is a bunch to pay attention to. At least with me, once I've got something clamped up, I'm temped to start bending the other side. DON'T do it. Once you get it set and good. Leave it alone to dry, don't risk twisting it or lowering the joint on the transom etc. The Dory was different from this one as it was getting glued to the forms, so the farther you went, the stronger it got. This hull is only relying on that bevel glued to the next plank to hold together. As you move up it tries to lift off of the frames, keep checking underneath to make sure it's still seated on the forms. So take your time and be patient. Let it dry before removing rubber bands and clamps.
That also brings up the point of make sure your bevels make good joints. Dry fit the planks and use a straight edge on the forms to see how well the bevel matches up and clean it up accordingly.
 

 
 
Here's a note for anyone starting this build. After I removed the hull from the frame I noticed char on the inside. I was pretty sure I had cleaned up most of the char and then I realized it was transferred from the frames. So sand that char off also just be careful not the change the shape. It will save you the hassle of cleaning it up later.
There was also some light dents from holding it on the frames that I'm taking care of with a little water.
 

 
Here is the outside of the hull getting some sanding. I'm pretty happy with the spacing and true-ness of it all. The joints at the transom are not too bad. I'd love to hear opinions and constructive criticism on how to make things better.
 

 
 
Some final questions.-- How should the edges of the planks on the bottom be handled? Should they be left square or rounded over? 
 
The instructions mention that sometimes the skeg has a protective brass cover on it. I think that could look nice. Can anyone direct me to on details on that?
 
Thanks for any help and suggestions!

Chris
 
 

Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate.
 
You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.

what kind of wax did you use? are you sure its the wax?
 
ive never seen anything like that, aside an old dusty ship ive ignored for 30 years.
 
dont flame it. i can picture you blow torching it to ashes.
 
maybe put it in a warm place or in the sun the run a brush over the lines. another thought, perhaps using a solvent on a soft brush run over each line that can remelt the wax?
 
 

Perhaps if you go over the lines with a brush using diluted white glue or clear/matte acrylic it will make it look a lot better.
I would dilute about 4 to 1..
 
Your model looks really great for a first time build.

Model is finally finished, a friend photographer made real good pictures so when I got them I will post.
 
 

Two more sections added to the fuselage.
 

Thank you all for you help. This is very good information.
From where I sit, the future is not very bright for the Byrnes saw. Eventually, the community will benefit if some knowledgeable (and this certainly leaves me out) person or group compiles and posts a list of the sizes of all the available replacement screws, belts and other parts, and where they can be purchased. I would not be surprised if I am one of the few people asking these sorts of questions now, but I suspect there will be more in the future. 

When I ordered from Malco in the past, they required a $100 minimum order.  I like their blades.  $100 buys several..

Me too.

Working from a fixed inventory, I am not surprised that Donna may have depleted Model Machines inventory.  You may wish to try email and see what is left that you want by contacting Donna. 
 
 
Malco  seems to offer single blade purchase on these pages:
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product-category/high-speed-steel-saws/jeweler-s-slotting-saws/?4860_attr_pa_diameter[0]=167&4860_attr_pa_diameter[1]=139&4860_attr_pa_hole[0]=144&4860_filtered=true&4860_paged=2
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product-category/high-speed-steel-saws/plain-metal-slitting-saws/?4860_attr_pa_diameter[0]=167&4860_attr_pa_diameter[1]=169&4860_attr_pa_diameter[2]=139&4860_filtered=true
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product-category/high-speed-steel-saws/cutting-saws/?4860_attr_pa_diameter[0]=167&4860_attr_pa_diameter[1]=139&4860_attr_pa_hole[0]=144&4860_filtered=true
 
Martindale may be a possibility -they seem to want to talk first-   but you will need a 1" to 1/2" arbor adapter bushing.  Even way back when it was Jarmac and Dremel as 4" table saw and ordering was snail mail and checks - their blades were 1" arbor.
 
https://martindaleco.com/?s=&stype=p&wccaf_od=4.0000&wccaf_id=1.0000&wccaf_thickness=&wccaf_teeth=&wccaf_hub=No&wccaf_material[]=HSS&wccaf_material_data=HSS
 
I did a Google search and found Temu.com   and found low cost - no bets on the quality - 4"  but their arbors are 20mm  - I got that adapter bushing for the Diablo so I can do a trial - the prices are low enough to be worth the gamble.  $16.00 for four different blades to sample.
 
The HSS blades with lots of teeth, thin kerf, have small gullets and no set to the teeth.  Not a good tool for resawing stock of significant thickness. The carbides have "ouch" kerf thickness.

Finally finished the starboard crutch and added some putty so now let it all set up. Too Chucks statement is "now just do it again" that was a classic understatement. I can tell how hard it was to make another as it took days of cutting, filing and sanding to get a somewhat correct piece. 
Now as to how many attempts can be seen in this pile

Now I'll and some gesso to seal the new wood and putty before painted. While in the painted process I proceed to the mounting ladder and channels.
 
 
 

Yes, yes, I know -- this will be yet a third concurrently running project. And actually, this project will not really begin for at least another week to ten days, because I just ordered the kit today, and it has to wing its way over here from Poland. So, first question is: Why this project? For several reasons:
I have long been wanting to try my hand at a card sailing vessel. This looks like a great kit for that purpose. The rig is super simple. It is hot off the presses. I want to be among the very first to build one of these (the urge to be an 'early adopter') -- hence the slightly premature rush to start this log.  
I will do a deep dive into the kit contents once it gets here, but for now here's a shot of the kit cover:
 

 
And a contemporary drawing of the subject by Willem van de Velde.
 

 
I ordered the discounted set for the model, which includes the kit, laser-cut parts, mast dowels, and printed sails. In total, this set me back a whopping US$30.62, including shipping, which is about half what it would cost to acquire a single Halinski kit along with its bells and whistles. I have remarked before on the value of ordering directly from Tomek at his website.
 
And now . . . we wait. In the meantime, I will try to get as much done on the Salmson as I can before the next project arrives.
 
That's it for now!
 

Nice Shawn,
 
I am also making frames.  I did a quick check with frame Ba (Aa not done yet).  My frame is also slightly inside the line (less than 1/32 on each side). I was quite aggressive with my char removal and this could have slightly reduce the width of the frames. Also, a frame not perfectly square with the respect to the keel or slightly higher on one side than the other will bring the frame limit inside the line. I am curious to see if I get closer to the limit line once I have made all the necessary adjustments.  I will keep you posted. 
 
Jean-Marc

Nope your good…looks great.  The line is really before fairing and removing any char at all.  There is plenty of meat on those frames so you are doing perfectly.  That is exactly how it should look and be. Mine was exactly the same.

I have about 12 frames made, decided it was time to try and see how they looked on the keel.

With that frame Aa doesn't extend all the way to the line on the plans.  Actually none of them do.  They do all line up with each other.

Did I do something incorrect?  I don't believe this is expected.

Shawn

Saturday – June 15, 2024
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG members on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain materials, techniques and tools for creating realistic-looking sails for ship models. The first presenter’s section focuses on crafting working sails while the second presenter will explain techniques for creating furled ones. Both approaches use an inexpensive and adaptable paper-like material called “Silkspan.”
 
The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, June 15, 2024, at 10:30 AM CDS time.
11:30 AM – Eastern
10:30 AM – Central
9:30 AM – Mountain
8:30 AM – Pacific
4:30 PM – Greenwich
 
 

Log #6: first planks
 
The first three planks on each side have been placed.
 
I’m trying to slowly get the bow ends to curve upwards to achieve a more natural bend, then I can start reducing the edge bending and tapering.
 

 


I used Chucks edge bending method using the iron, works perfectly.

 

 

 

 

In all honesty, you do not need edge bending tools - the first planking is only 1mm thick, you can wet it and induce the curves you want using your finger and thumb

Yesterday, I tackled the upper/lower apron. I had glued the wedge halves together a few days ago and had them lined up in the proper order on my workbench. However, I noticed that 8/9 wedge was missing! What the heck! Over an hour of searching produced negative results, swear jar was very happy. Only thing I could think of was the family cat took it as she likes to spend time with me. So, do I get a hold of Chuck and wait for replacement, or forge ahead. I really didn’t want to contact Chuck as he’s headed out for some R&R. I decided to make a replacement. I first tried the make the wedge by hand, I mean it’s all straight lines, right? Well I forgot that I can’t draw a straight line using a ruler. The results were very pathetic and not worthy. Well I forgot that I have a Proxxon mill, perfect! After about 1/2 hour of milling I dropped the part into the appropriate hole in the billet and it was a perfect fit. Yea! Sorry, but in my haste to move on, I forgot to take pictures. As you can see, the replacement really stands out on the apron. 
 
Best Regards …. Rick

Although I would definitely recommend buying the Accessory Pack (or 2) from Byrnes, the insert screws are #2-56 1/4" and available from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RC5LJC).

Hi all,
 
Here is my slightly modified version of Chuck’s Speedwell based on Greg and David’s plan. Over a year ago I had planned on upscaling David’s drawings to the same scale as Chuck’s and proceeded to build the keel assembly. After I made some headway I got wrapped up building a CNC mill and learning how to program it. A year flew by as I watched Chuck’s genius in putting together his kit. I could not resist the temptation and decided that I would go the kit way instead, except for using the boxwood (Castello) keel I had already gotten a good start on. Although Chuck’s version of David’s drawings (scaled up) are very similar, they are not identical. However, the keel assembly is close enough (I hope 🫣). I used a router to make the rabbet. The false keel is ebony. I have used a Mylar copy glued onto my building board. 


Cheers,
Ian

Thanks Rusty, much appreciated from someone’s who’s work I’ve admired for a very long time. 

Planking not taking long as only about 12 rows. I taper the bow sections and also chamfer the edges so sit better with the previous row. To pin the planks I drill a pilot hole at the marked ribs as I find the plank often splits if I just push them in.
 
 
 
 
I added a stealer (arrow) in the bow as the planks were not sitting smoothly. Hard to actually spot it especially once I sand it.
 

So I may have been pre-emptive, but I decided to raise the deadflat frame on the keel today. Doing so took quite a bit of finessing and was definitely aided by the deadflat 1 frame when it came to final positioning.
 
The whole endeavour was slowed by the fact that I broke not one but both of the frames while adding the trunnels, and had to reset the futtocks and in one case re-make one of the chocks - which I did using the method suggested by Greg which worked way better for fit - still a bit of adjusting to do, but not as much as when I was just cutting them from the patterns on the frame drawings....
 
For mounting, the frame was merely glued to the keel assembly with PVA, which I will let cure for 24 hours before securing the seating with a length of brass rod - this will be invisible under the keelson, so I'm not going to treat it in any way, just use it for structural support.
 
I lined up the frame along the reference lines on the lateral framing squares and clamped these in place. I then clamped the forward square along the centre line (I etched a centre line on the acrylic base and vertical support for certainty)and then clamped the frame to the aft framing square.
 
Once this was done, I inserted some 2mm spacers (scrap basswood) between the two frames and used a length of 2mm basswood for a bracing piece at the top. This is only glued to the aft edge of the deadflat frame but clamped between the 2 frames to secure it. I was quite please not only with the seating of the frame, but with the alignment of the outside edges of these first two frames. I will be adding these horizontal braces to the tops of the frames as I go for structural support and to ensure symmetry and will saw the centre portions flush and sand down the remaining material flush with the frames when I fair the cross-section for planking. The bracing pieces you see further down the frame are not glued and will be removed once the glue is set and I'm ready to install deadflat 1, which I will do after completing frame 1 forward.
 
Any comments, tips or feedback on this process are always appreciated. Thanks and bye for now
hamilton