Rick01

I actually thought that you'd realised that the deadeye would also require a bit of work! Maybe a request to Chuck for a "one off" would be the way to go. As for the boom/bowsprit I'm afraid I can't answer that one, hopefully Druxey or Chuck will see this and be able to answer, I'd also be interested in the reasoning behind it.

Rick

I'm going to enjoy watching you make the corresponding 5 holed deadeye when you start rigging the ship.

Rick

" using .06 thick planking" !!! Should have read .6 mm 

Rick

Yep, I was aware of that ship too but not that people wanted to defend its honor

We Australians get a little upset at times when our own history gets forgotten. The original release of this ship did in fact claim it was the real "Lady Nelson" - pretty obviously not when you count the masts!!

As to the planking, your idea looks fine, I did go about it a slightly different way in that my second planking was done using .06 thick planking - somewhat easier to manipulate.

Rick 

Vossiewulf - there is another reason why a few of us don't really like the name on this cutter. There actually was a "Lady Nelson" used in the exploration of Australia but rigged as a brig rather than a cutter see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Lady_Nelson_(1798)wikipedia I know but in this instance basically accurate.

Rick

I fitted the gunwales first then soaked and bent the transom into the approximate curve needed. Once I was satisfied with it I then started carefully shaving the "legs" until everything went together neatly. By the way the gunwales have a tendency to break at the bow gun ports if you're not super careful when fitting ( not that I'd expect anything other than care going on your build so far).

Rick

Hi Vossiewulf. One question not directly associated with the model. Where are you located? Purely a matter of interest and no need to answer if you feel it a little personal.

Rick

One specific error in Petersson is the anchor cable on the windlass. The cable on one side is correctly led over the drum whilst the other one goes under. So turning the windlass will be lowering one anchor whilst raising the other ! This error has been replicated by the manufacturer of the model of HM Cutter Mermaid .

Rick

I also reversed the companionway so the doors are facing aft - seems to me that less water would be hitting it in heavy seas/storms than in its shown position of doors opening forward. The belfry seems to be an item that doesn't have any specific position on cutters, I've seen them built onto the companionway top and on the windlass so that item is open for you to decide.

Rick

Hi - Tony has it. The companionway is the boxy looking structure aft of the last grating. I re-made mine using planking as I personally think it looks better than slab sides. As for the gratings I fit a bit of matt black card into the grating  at the scale we're working at it does the job nicely.

Rick

Thanks Chuck that makes so much more sense and I do have spare cleats available to belay the lines.

Rick

Pretty much how I understood it. However the kit only provides for two blocks so I'm puzzled over how one belays what is "in effect" a running hoist broken only by the loop and toggle for fixing the flag.

I'm to far on with the kit to now go back and provide some belaying pin racks at the stern.

Rick

I'm at the stage of rigging my cutter "Lady Nelson" and am puzzling over the flag hoist. Both the plans and Petersson agree that a block is roved to the tip of the gaff but then differ in that Petersson has the "loose" ends run down to a belaying pin whilst the kit indicates a continuous loop running through a second block fixed to a ring bolt by the rudder. Using this latter system, once the flag is hoist how does it then remain hoist? I'm assuming that the apparent continuous loop does in fact have a loop and toggle clipped together when no flag attached, otherwise fixed to the flag appropriately.

(Hope this makes sense).

Rick 

When you do get to the rigging you'll find that you need a few more belaying points than the kit allows. I've 8 ring bolts around the mast I should have remade the belaying pin rack (can't think of the correct word!) as the pins are to close together - would have been better split in two and set between two cannon positions.

Rck

Basically true!!

Rick

Fillers then deck - I'm building this model and that (to me) is much the better way.

Rick

The first item in the book is actually of a cutter with enough information to fully rig your "Lady Nelson". Much more detail is provided than on the plans (I'm building this myself at the moment).

Rick

" I will try my best to make a perfect Lady Nelson, but know I will never get there."

As this kit is actually generic in that there was no cutter "Lady Nelson" as long as you follow the general layout etc. for an 18th century cutter you will have produced your own "perfect" model. Lennarth Petersson's "Rigging Period Fore_and-aft Craft will give you a reasonable rigging plan (better than the stripped down version supplied) and a look here at contemporary cutter models will also provide some illumination.

Rick 

Check my build here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8158-hms-endeavours-longboat-rick01-finished-artesania-latina-160/for using rubber bands and lego bricks! Both very useful items.

Rick

They also get used in the veggie section of Coles and Safeway - usually around assorted Chinese stuff (pak choy, bok choy etc.)

Rick

Getting there - do you have any of those thick red rubber bands that posties put around all your letters? If so they are pretty good at holding planking in place.

Rick

Don't know how far you've got (unless you're holidaying in the Whitsundays or somewhere else). Just a thought - I had problems with the cannon ports in that they were slightly to small to allow any elevation on the cannon and in fact the lids were resting on the barrels. May have been me as I dumped the metal trunnions and produced wooden ones however just something to be aware of.

Rick

Looking good - I replaced my keel with a section of sold timber from a sheet of walnut.

Rick

Reason I used blocks at the end was to make pinning for the last two bulkheads easier - also used a lot of Post Office rubber bands - the broad red ones hold planking down quite well and a Leggo brick placed under them helps direct the pressure correctly.

Rick

If you haven't already then a read through some of these should answer your planking questions quite well. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php I notice that you haven't installed the false keel as yet - I found that it was easier to install then plank up to it rather than try cutting any excess planking for the keel to fit.

Finished lunch and having a rest?

Rick