Rick01

Thanks John - cleared that up nicely. Pity Modellers Shipyard didn't look at King's own sketches of his ship when putting the model together. Rick

Thanks - knew there would be a simple answer. So displaying the finished model without sails would mean that the only evidence of this would be (and I'm guessing here) a spare block near the top of the top mast and a similar spare block at the end of the gaff.Would any rigging be run through these and if so where would they be tied off? Or can you point me to a simple (layman's) instruction manual? Rick

I've just opened my Christmas present and am attempting to research a few items as I start my build. Obviously I've been over Ollie's build http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3958-hm-colonial-cutter-mermaid-by-ollie-modellers-shipyard/?hl=mermaiduntil I almost can repeat it by heart. However I am still puzzled by one item and that is the yard/spar/boom whatever attached to the top mast. Ollie after discussion by pm has it attached centrally and notes that it may be a "flying" yard which I won't dispute as I have pretty well zero knowledge of ship nomenclature. However from studying King's own sketches/water colours it appears that it is loosely attached possibly via block behind the top mast and at a point 1/3rd along its length. This is born out by some models and sketches from the NMM (UK) So - how does one rig this or is it something that would only be brought out when you wanted to go really really fast!! If so where would the yard be stored on or below deck? Just as an aside I saw that Ollie was querying the cannon positions, if you look very closely at the first picture you can see what appears to be a single cannon run out at the rearmost cannon port. Rick

Rigging completed with new thread supplied - all finished now. Rick

Well I've just received some extra rigging from AL - however it's from a different dye lot and is noticeably different from the previous lot. So, the only solution will be to check how much they've sent me and hope that there's enough to re-rig all the stays etc. Didn't really want to do this but if it's going to look good then so be it. Meanwhile I have built a case for it so the time waiting wasn't all wasted.

I've almost completed the rigging and other fittings now but have come to a stand-still due to a shortage of rigging. AL have supplied about 40 cm less of the heavy (dark brown) thread than is needed to complete this, however I have been in contact with them and they are sending a further supply out. The actual rigging illustrations/instructions really are pretty basic and I've had to use the box top illustration plus internet searches to get something that looks near correct. Not overly happy but it'll do for a first time! Rick

Newbies question but if you don't ask you wont find out. I'm building the AL "Endeavour's Longboat" and have arrived at the rigging. Their instructions are as clear as mud for a beginner but with the help of the 18th Century longboat build here, plus their box illustration I've got a fair idea of what goes where (and why!!). However the instructions just say to "tie off to mast/eyebolt". All very well but this leaves no method of tensioning for the stays were this the real thing. Personally I'd have expected the stays to be looped at the top of the masts and a hook/turnbuckle arrangement at the eyebolt. I know the latter would be pretty hard to model at this scale but a plain hook should be possible. So what do I do - just tie it all off or at least try modelling a small hook at the eyebolt end? Rick

Few more items fitted up and more grizzles about the instructions. Boom brackets - no measurements given as to where they sit on each mast and no side comment that they'll fit better if you file a groove in the side against the mast, so I've had to look at the box illustration and make an inspired guess for positioning. Got it roughly correct I hope but having taken them down twice I'm not doing it again. Trysails (?) you'll need to file the jaws flat internally to fit the booms.At least they did give positional information for the lugs at the top of the masts. Next the eyebolts - instructions suggest 1 mm dia. drill holes - do this and they'll fall straight out again. A 0.5mm drill is needed here. Next item will be the rigging - again not the best instructions but hopefully the 18th century longboat here will help. Rick

Now starting to fit it out. For anyone who builds this I'd suggest that steps 9 and 10 in the manual be ignored until you've fitted step 11 - boarding and thwarts, the gunwale covers really get in the way when trimming everything to size. So steps in this order 8, 11, 9, 10. Instead of the single pin resembling a marlin spike I've chosen to make a set of thole pins with reasonable success - cutting down cocktail sticks 'til they're about 1mm thick is somewhat time consuming but I did get there. Oars were reasonably easy but I do need to make some sort of jig in order to centralise drill holes in future as near enough isn't quite good enough when you know where your mistakes are. Feel free to comment if anyone wants to. Rick

No problem with hijacking - I've basically got an answer to my part of the query so any other heritage questions remarks are welcome - let the thread run and go where it will, :-) Rick

Thanks for that Bob - I'll try and hunt up a copy with the plans still intact. Rick

Well planking is now finished to a reasonable level. I didn't have to fill with much home made wood putty although fitting the last couple of planks each side was difficult and a couple of stealers were used. A water base satin finish clear coat has been applied to the exterior to preserve it from grubby fingers whilst working on other areas. Rick

Perhaps a poll of other Australian members would show the level of interest in a project regarding the Enterprize. At my current skill level this is just academic but a little further down the track it would definitely interest me. Rick

At this stage I'm still struggling with my first ever build (planking even with the practicums here is a little bit of a challenge) so a build of Enterprize would lay in the future. However to kit bash I guess I'd need to get hold of a set of plans for Enterprize as a start then look for a kit with similar hull dimensions. I have no problems with scaling up/down but with no working knowledge of ships I really am not sure where I'd start as far as research is concerned. Rick

Just as a matter of interest I've noticed that although there are a number of models available depicting ships involved in our development one little guy is missing - the topsail schooner Enterprize. A small ship I know but not without importance to some of us. Is anyone aware of this having been built as a model, either scratch or bashed from another topsail schooner? Way above my skill levels at the moment but something I'd like to consider at a later date. Rick

A note for anyone building this - the flag they provide is the post 1801 variant and would never have been flown on this boat.

I will say that other than the deck alignment the rest of the kit went together well. However the rigging plans should probably be forgotten completely Rick

Thanks for the assist - my knowledge of 18th century boats is practically nil but even after a single read through the instructions I felt that some items just weren't correct. I've already ignored their planking "instructions" and started work based on the "Beginners guide" here. I'l also go through the 18th century longboat build and use that as a base for the model. Pity they can't get it correct, it's my first attempt at wooden ship modelling and it would be nice to have had a little more confidence in the kit. Rick

I'm starting building this and before I get too far have a couple of queries. Firstly - mast taper. All the instructions say is to "sand down to give them a conical shape at one end" . This end has a 2 mm shaped dowel attached to it. So do I just effectively taper the last centimetre, gently taper from the foot of the mast or start the taper at some other point. The finished boat illustration seems to taper from about 2/3rds upwards. Does this als apply to the bowsprit? I assume the booms don't taper at all. Second point is the rowlocks - these appear as a single pin when constructed, this to me is mechanically unsound as it would not secure the oar when in use. This photo clearly shows what they feel is correct. Any comments, hints, advice gratefully received. Rick

Initial planking now finished and (2 part) keel attached. A few mistakes along the way but nothing sandpaper and wood filler haven't fixed. Why did AL have to make the keel in two parts - a single straight run would have been nicer as the join half way along the bottom is going to bug me!

Popeye a word of warning - the moulds for this kit are 40 + years old and with mine the decks did not line up causing a lot of trouble when installing masts and later the shrouds. They actually sat 2~3mm forward of where they should have been!!! Rick

Looks as if no one else is game to comment here. This is a personal preference and nothing against the work you've put in but I prefer not to display sails as I feel that getting them to look/hang correctly just doesn't work as scaling down canvas seems to be a major problem (it also cuts back on the amount of rigging required!) You may like to check this book out for hints on rigging http://books.google.com.au/books?id=IAKSAwAAQBAJ&pg=PP6&lpg=PP6&dq=spritsail+%26+spritsail+topsail+braces&source=bl&ots=A25dB9igIc&sig=ITx35oaC6ePaAkhostEMQ7gQXAw&hl=en&sa=X&ei=QZvyU4_gJMeIuATFyoLQBg&ved=0CEQQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=spritsail%20%26%20spritsail%20topsail%20braces&f=false I used it a fair amount when converting Jolly Roger to a french frigate. Rick

As per the instruction sheet I've started fitting the first planking. Garboard and top plank fitted without too much trouble but I then thought that maybe I'd missed an instruction to fit the false keel and bow, but no, according the the book these are fitted "after" final planking (or that's how I read it)! This really didn't make sense so I trial fitted both keel and bow to discover that for the keel to meet the false bow I needed a 1mm shim under it. No problem here however as I keep all the off-cuts from anything I'm making and was able to split one of the bits of ply that the original frame was in. It also needed more packing in the bow and stern to have any hope of getting the flow of the planking somewhere near correct. Note - don't follow the (very limited) instruction re planking with the kit as it has planks ending in points and flowing anywhere but to the bow and stern!! 1st try at planking Bow with additional filling and false bow in place. Stern area with 1mm shim added between garboards to bring keel up to the correct height. Obviously I'll need a bit of filling and sanding in due course. Any recommendations as to a particular wood filler to use?

I can't find another of these in the build area so I'm guessing any previous builds disappeared in the site crash, so here goes. Absolutely my first wooden ship build but I've had some experience with plastic kits and although it looks daunting when opening the box I'm prepared to work slowly though it all. Instructions are not bad but do leave something to be desired and dry fitting everything is a must. First question - staining/varnishing/sealing the wood. It appears to me that this would be easier with the interior ribs etc if done as you assemble the kit rather than wait 'til it's finished. Either way what is recommended (available in Aus) if I choose not to paint but leave as a timber finish. Ribs attached to keel - good fit all round. Main deck dropped in place to check alignment of ribs. Decking glued down - note it needed a light sanding at the ends as the fit was just a little tight. Side rail dry fitted to check alignment again. The rail was slightly out of true itself as can be seen where it doesn't quite meet up with the 2nd rib. Both side rails attached and alignment sorted with glue and pegs. I did have an accident at this point whilst cleaning one of the rails and snapped it at a rib cut out. This should be OK as it's been glued and once the boards are attached should ensure it stays properly in place. Next step is shaping bows and stern area. AL suggest doing this with a file and show a nice bastard rasp in use. I'm guessing that if I use one I'm liable to rip things to bit given how they bite into the wood. However I'd think that judicious of a sharp knife plus very careful use of a Dremel will do the job. Bit of a let-down here as AL don't show the finished/shaped sections so it's up to you to look at it and imagine how the shapes should flow. Look forward to comments and advice and by the way who ever suggested lego bricks as a tool deserves a medal!

Thanks Brian - will do. Rick