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Neill

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Everything posted by Neill

  1. Neill
    Mine will have to be dockyard style, unrigged, due to size restrictions anyway, so no grumbling from me. Looking forward to a big heavy box arriving soon.
  2. Neill
    "Throwaway", they look good to me.
  3. Neill
    MDF is a great material, all my workshop benching is made of it. Like all things, it just needs to be used correctly and with care, whether large project or small.🤐🙂
  4. Neill
    Thanks James.
  5. Neill
    MDF dust is especially nasty stuff if inhaled. In the past I tended to wear a mask if I had one, nowadays that is not a problem!
  6. Neill
    James, please can you add the badge against my name.
  7. Neill
    Bristol is a great choice.
  8. Neill
    Vanguard models is the one I'd like to reply to.
  9. Neill

    Hi James, please can you help as an administrator.  I do not get the chance to reply to posts on some threads.  I'm logged in but the usual boxes do not appear.  Any suggestions appreciated.

  10. Neill
    Looking forward to following this. I will build mine dockyard style as well, again due to display space, and matrimonial harmony.
  11. Neill
    Yes, and i can reply to this, but not some other threads.
  12. Neill
    Help please, sometimes I don't get the + symbol or quote box so cannot reply to posts, what am I doing wrong.
  13. Neill

    HMS Agammenon would be nice 1/64, or perhaps Alfred as a lesser modelled 74 gun third rate.

  14. Neill
    Will keep my eyes peeled😀
  15. Neill
    Very fair price indeed , funds earmarked😀
  16. Neill
    This is shaping up to be a beautiful model. So much so it has reinvigorated my model making mojo. Time to start the Lady Nelson and keep an eye out for when Sphinx is released for sale.
  17. Neill
    I live in the UK, and just ordered 4 books from them. They arrived exactly two weeks from date of order so no complaints from me. Shipping was eye watering it is true, but that is not their fault. As for the books, well hats off to David Antscherl, Ed Tosti and Allan Yedlinsky, great inspiring work.
  18. Neill
    Good idea. As a member of this forum for many years, at long long last I am setting up for my first scratchbuild model, and will be tackling David Antscherl's Hayling Hoy. The book arrived yesterday, it looks a super little vessel to start with.
  19. Neill
    As a sometime contributor to the old game, I'm glad to see it back. As I recall, some cunning folk had some software that searched the net for similar images - cheating in my book.
  20. Neill
    For precise centering with the 4 jaw chuck you do need either a dial indicator or a "wobbler", I'd opt for the former. However, for ornamental turning you may well be able to get away with using a centre in the tailstock as a guide. You will need to know where the centre is of the workpiece is, this is easily determined with a circular item, forgive me if you know already how. Measure the diameter of the item, then set the radius onto a pair of spring dividers. Touch one point to the workpiece edge (anywhere) and carefully (this can be fiddly) scrib an arc, repeat this a further two times and there the lines bisect is the centre. Then put the item in the chuck, slide up the tailstock and carefully adjust the jaws until the centre point is on your determined centre. This will be fine for ornamental work and even forms a good starting point for using the DI for the final set-up on more precise work. Self centering 4 jaw chucks are nice to have, but their use is limited and an independant 4 jaw chuck does everything they can, and more.
  21. Neill
    Mike I'd say it's a personal choice myself, a scraper may potentially give a better finish, but needs greater skill in application - practice on scrap before going near a model. You can buy cabinet makers scrapers from specialist wodworking suppliers, they come in a variety of shapes and sizes. You could also make them if you have tooling for cutting, grinding and hardening carbon steel.
  22. Neill
    I'd advise a little caution in using a drill chuck to hold a workpiece in the headstock of a lathe. Such chucks are not designed to take lateral forces and could result in either inaccurate work, or worse, failure of the chuck, if overloaded. If you cannot mount it securly in a 3 jaw chuck, then use a 4 jaw, failing that, a centre plate. The same would apply if trying to carry out a milling operation in a pillar drill.
  23. Neill
    Russ You have every excuse for not having heard of Carrs, they are a UK company and primarily sell to the model railway market. In the Uk model railways have the big "support" in terms of products for modelmakers, certainly compared to model boats. Inevitably these tend to be small suppliers, selling via exhibtions (no good for people who can't get there) or the web (great - but only if you know where to look). I can certainly recommend Carrs products as I use them a lot, I have attached a link; http://www.finescale.org.uk/
  24. Neill
    Sorry to differ with you Russ, but you can chemically black soft solder. There is a company called Carrs who make a range of soldering and chemical blacking products and I believe these are available in or importable to the US. In terms of strength, silver solder will always be better, and for work like Borge shows, where the stress is at an angle to the joint, much the better choice. For joints that will only be in tension or compression it may not be necessary though.
  25. Neill
    I too have the navy board and sailing men of war books, and very good they are too. As Jan has said, there is some overlap. I particulalry liked his description of his workshop in sailing men of war, I'm a keen enthusiast of other modelmakers workplaces. If I had one criticism, it's that he does not elaborate on where to get the right timber in the UK, this difficulty has bugged me for years and it seems like importing from Hobby Mill of similar is a must unless one has extensive sawmill facilties and can buy by the cubic metre. I'd recommend both books though, you will learn something even if you actually plan on modelling something a little different.

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