Jump to content

CharlieZardoz

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    969

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by CharlieZardoz

  1. CharlieZardoz
    Type II: the workhorse This design has a lot of exposed wood up top by the sheer and the design is to denote usefulness over style. The wooden areas wouldn't be painted since the area would be constantly in use. It still has a changing wale and the cap rail is black but can also be wood (chose a lighter wood to contrast see #12) with some variations as shown. This would allow more of the models wood to be exposed and appreciated aesthetically but could also be too complex.
  2. CharlieZardoz
    Greetings everyone! So I spent the good part of a day really working through the color patterns possible for these simple ships and anyone who's been following my other post of ship colors knows this has been eating at me. But I believe I've come to 3 main plausible color variation types so without further adieu here they are! Type I: Flashy This design for me looks the most upscale. Most of the hull is painted in black, the sheer and hull areas don't change. Color changes via the wale and stripe above the wale. The 31 ton has a tarred brown basic wale, the 51 uses copper/green and white, then the 80 ton uses ochre and a red strip. Cap rails are white though they could also be wood finish (see #6) or black. I like white/tallow since it gives the 31 and 52 two stripes like clippers and other revenue cutter images ive seen. There is a gradual increase in color complexity from 1 to 2 to 3 colors to denote class and importance of the ship assuming the larger ships had more prominent functions and could be identified by commanders. I overall really like this design though it may be a bit on the flashy side, it follows Pride of Baltimore II the model of Achilles, Swift and other revenue cutter images which seem to have 2 white or tallow stripes so this design does has a reference point.
  3. CharlieZardoz
    These are all beautiful models so nicely done. I think there is a joy that comes from trying different approaches and see what work best for you. For me I like the nail indentations and acknowledge that sometimes modeling small details may not be exactly to scale (like treenailing), some stuff gets exaggerated a bit in order to add pleasing detail to a model. I'm going to speak more with Dan (shipmodel) about all this process and see about things like should the plates overlap etc
  4. CharlieZardoz
    Honestly from what I'm looking through I feel the copper tape is the best and most realistic way to go. So I will do that
  5. CharlieZardoz
    Then I redrew all the lines. So aside from some minor shaping I plan on doing by the transom, the hull shaping is essentially done for the 31 pounder anyways. Note the lovely curve at the edge of the hull which curves slightly upwards at the bow and stern and note the pencil line on the bowsprit where the deck is supposed to line up. Next up is going to be the beginnings of adding planking lines in preparation for the planking. Crew added for dramatic effect, that guy in the front though... "metaaaaahhllll!!"
  6. CharlieZardoz
    Thanks Mark! And here we have the same approach to the bow. Took a small piece, sanded it down and glued it on removing the excess then sanding and filling. You can see the areas where lighter wood filler was used before I used the finishing filler in natural color. Everything was then polished with a fine sandpaper.
  7. CharlieZardoz
    Quick update on this post I came to realize that the 1797 unidentified schooner in Chapelle's book has actually been likened to be the Dilligence II class revenue cutter with Eagle a member and most likely was a plan for the class. Also a nice looking reconstruction of Eagle exists. While this doesn't help much with the mystery that is Enterprize, it does help me with the mystery of what ship that draught represents as well as gives a nice image of what a similar and slightly smaller contemporary to Enterprize might have looked like.
  8. CharlieZardoz
    Ah wow yes and scratch done as well. If I can work with these etched ones with the bolts already applied and they look correct then yeah thatll do however I may go this route as well. Would also like them weathered a bit so they look as they would in use. Was their a historical size for plates or did it vary?
  9. CharlieZardoz
    Ah and I see these photo etched ones for Amati that come in 5x17 mm and 6x19mm look very nice!
  10. CharlieZardoz
    Then Caldercraft has these which are supposedly 1/72 but at 6.5 by 17mm so sort of the same size as the other ones? But edge detail looks more to scale.
  11. CharlieZardoz
    I'm looking at them now seems 1/64 plates for amati are 8 by 18 mm. There are also these Caldercraft ones at 5.5 by 18 which look nice however some I see have rivets all the way through while others only around the edges. What's up with that?
  12. CharlieZardoz
    Hi all. Since my current model will require copper plates I am curious if there is a particular brand or company which is considered -er best or best quality maybe? These will be 1/64 scale were all copper plates relatively the same size or did it vary? I did look around the site but didnt see anything regarding preffered brand.
  13. CharlieZardoz
    Also you should pick up the Anatomy of the ship book for Beagle and that has very accurate detailing. You may also want to research Cherokee class brig sloops there were tons of them and a few of them might have had images of them recorded. Like for example this is the figurehead of the HMS Forrester while not a beagle shows the size and placement of the bust
  14. CharlieZardoz
    I suppose it was to help the ships appear more like menacing warships since the US fleet was so much smaller than the British or French the idea of making our small fleet look more imposing must have been a factor. I mean the Continental navy was comprised largely of sloops and galleys, then we upgraded to schooners then brigs then sloops, building what was essentially affordable with a few superships scattered about. Regarding Enterprize I imagine she must have looked something like Prince De Neufchatel by the time of 1815-1820 after all her rebuilds. Could be wrong on that but with so many possible changes I could imagine the two might have looked similar.
  15. CharlieZardoz
    I typically see some sort of Beagle-esque design on models that people have built. You can also inquire with those who are building the replica in Chile and see what they plan on doing. This goes for coloring as well most of these images are taken from google, There is no specific answer so you may as well get creative while also working with what was fashionable for the time.
  16. CharlieZardoz
    And that's about it. I added enough to make the joint perfectly smooth no way of telling there was a piece added. I will do the same for the bow piece shortly. Once you think of wood as clay sculpting, you can add and subtract as much as you want. And fingers of course always work best!
  17. CharlieZardoz
    For the record I've been using two types of wood filler, the left one is a white powder and dries very hard, good for providing strength when adding to the wood. The second is a soft filler using wood fibers and good for shaping and sanding. Regarding glue I've come to prefer the instacure for the thin pieces. Water based glues will take a thin strip and warp it the same way one does when plank bending. Which in the case of this process is not desirable. That said, watch out the stuff dries fast with little time for resetting!
  18. CharlieZardoz
    Basic approach was to take a thin veneer sheet of basswood and then sand to create a flat wedge. Glue it on then shape it to become part of the hull.
  19. CharlieZardoz
    Ok guys so here's what I've been up to. Having to make minor corrections to the hull before the planking arrives. So this was my approach, cut out two side profiles one with the keel and one without to fit the hull in. The deck is the dotted line so I made sure to cut the top following that shape exactly. As you can see the bow and stern both need to be built up a bit plus there is a small bulge towards the bow that needs sanding. Easy fixes!
  20. CharlieZardoz
    Ah yes there it is! I understand now the schooner rig isn't immediately apparent of course but that makes sense now seeing this list. I guess in the same way the brig waned in usefulness after the 1830s the schooner was even less utilized as the sloop of war and steam ships became the backbone of the navy. So did this Boxer class remain schooners their entire career? Also Grampus is such a lovely looking schooner and some of these others I'm reading about right now never noticed them before. Cool stuff.
  21. CharlieZardoz
    Hmm, I'm not sure but the ship draught I am inquiring about is this one, the Boxer 1831 Enterprise and Experiment which doesn't look like the 16 gun brig to my eyes. Actually I think it is similar to the "brigantine based on Dolphin" but can't be that one since it's from 1835, but like an improved version or some sort yes?
  22. CharlieZardoz
    Talos has there been any progress on the plan for John Adams after sloop of war conversion? And wow look at those sloops! Were some of those conjectural brigs used? I don't see Boxer among those listed.
  23. CharlieZardoz
    Yeah I imagine it's matter of knowing builders inclinations, taking known dimensions and then knowing what was the fashion of the time and putting it all together. Canney also suggests the plan might also be of Merrimack or at the very least a very similar example which with a bit of imagination could come together as a nice model. Talos I'd love to see the brings lined up, specifically a lot of the ones from 1830 onwards when brigs became less of a staple in the fleet, so Boxer, Perry and Lawrence for examples. I've been looking at those old Bluejacket kits that exist of Boxer and Perry one day I'd like to build those so finding those ships of particular interest at the moment. So that said I suppose I should ask what were the identifiable traits to a Fox plan or a Humphrey's plan? Or Hackett or Griece? I imagine there is a design evolution that each follow on their own way (of course some of them were specific to the time they lived) but that'd actually be pretty cool to see how the plans from each builder evolved over the years and what each builder brought to style and structure (sleek or bulky lines, more/less traditional). Interesting stuff!
  24. CharlieZardoz
    Ill be updating soon and thank you for the kind words same to you and yours as well. For the moment Im doing minor hull corrections for the 30 ton ship as the bow and stern need to be built up a bit (sagging a bit at the ends) then finalizing the shape very minor stuff until the planking arrives. Crown Timbreyard offers offwhite holly strips which I think look more natural as decking material so excited to do my first plank work and learn from it
  25. CharlieZardoz
    Yeah Talos great help with the explanations and diagrams thank you. Seeing them lined up adds so much perspective. That's what Im thinking though some of the ships (as long as the dimensions and ornamentations have been recorded) could be recreated as reasonably accurate models if one chose to do so since they followed that shrunken 44 design for the most part. Id say replicating Merrimack, Maryland or Patapsco is possible (I forget what info exists for which) (paging sir frolick), but then you have other ships like General Washington or Montezuma where replication is probably impossible unless you are John Millar and have that gift lol. But also if you wanted to lets say use these two plans to build two ship models and give them names according to the aforementioned ships which would work best and why in your opinions?

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...