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CharlieZardoz

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  1. CharlieZardoz
    So enough of that. Next up was an attempt at deck caulking. I tried pencil (didn't work too well for me), then charcoal (messy got everywhere), then paint (kinda the same). I also tried the black paper thing but with these veneer strips they are just too thin and the tiny 1/8" strips by 3/128" thickness just seemed silly at that scale. I used wood glue, welding cement and both made a horrible squishy mess. What worked best for me was the archival ink pens, which don't bleed and does the job. Will I change my mind? Maybe but for now this looks like the best way to go.
  2. CharlieZardoz
    This chart on basswood shows a breakdown of some common stains. After natural, there is golden oak, fruit wood, early American and cherry. Basswood may varnish and oil lousy but it shows stain really well and serves as a good neutral. I tried some stain on the other woods but unless I want something deliberately tarnished (like simulating tarring on wood to which early American on cherry wood could look nice), generally fancier woods really just need polish or oil. The strips on the piece are pear, cherry, and various holly strips. The darker parts are oil or stain while the lighter parts are poly. The strip cherry is lighter than that scrap I used and there are 3 holly variations all offwhite but I circled the section that will represent the deck of the revenue cutter if I choose to use those dark holly strips. Also you can see the 3 strips change a bit when I use the flash. I think this process overall taught me that what I thought I knew about the color of wood needed to be thrown out the window. Holly finished has a yellowish brown look similar to basswood at it's darkest. Cherry can vary sometimes much darker than pear.
  3. CharlieZardoz
    Next was wipe on poly and then natural finish stain. Natural dries similar to tung oil while poly seems like more of a varnish. It's not oily like the others and doesn't look as nice on cherry. However poly looks great on holly. I don't feel holly needs oil makes it look weird. So I am already envisioning the deck will have wipe on poly while the other woods could use tung oil and then maybe poly over that to protect it. Is this common practice? Also is natural stain an oil like tung?
  4. CharlieZardoz
    First we have Tung oil. This stuff really is an oil and seeps through anything thin like a veneer strip. It was fascinating watching each type of wood transform. Oil does nothing for basswood but cherry gets all this lovely figure. Pear is pinkish, boxwood and holly is yellowish.
  5. CharlieZardoz
    Good afternoon! Well rather than panic about the various shades of holly I decided this would be a good chance to start the process of using the wood finishes I have accumulated and understand wood colorings a bit better. Since this is all new to me I decided to have fun and test everything on scrap. So here we go!
  6. CharlieZardoz
    Ok gentle viewers so I received my decking materials and I am a bit concerned and could use some clarity, Explanation, a waaays back I got some off-white Holly at 1/6" thick, before I decided that veneer would work better for solid hulls. I ordered white veneer and decided it was too white for my taste. I could stain or weather it, or I could use silver maple but didn't like the figure. I also don't like a deck being too yellow or brown (like boxwood) so decided on picking up some off-white veneer. However the veneer I got is very grey almost greenish. While it kinda looks like the deck of current sailing ships (Eagle and Victory as examples which are very grey), I was hoping it would have looked like the 1/6" strips I have which kinda look like basswood. (See images below for comparisons). I mean it could work... but my understanding of historical ship decks actually looked like (and how to work with woods for modeling) is limited. The main thing is I want a bit of consistency in my models what I use for one I'd like to use for others down the line. Unless in situations where more weathering is required (military vs non-milary ship) etc. So what say you all? Is this holly veneer too grey/greenish would you consider using it? Maybe I am wrong and the color is perfect for decking! I mean I have limited funds and not sure what to do now..
  7. CharlieZardoz
    I'm curious Doc, are you planning on naming this model Independence? There were a couple of schooners in service at this time as the model is a variation of Halifax you have a few options at your disposal, Gaspee for example. Just intrigued
  8. CharlieZardoz
    For these cutters I will do much of the hull planking in Cherry, the deck in "off-white holly" which has a coloring similar to basswood and considering doing the keel in pear. I'm thinking of doing the cap rail in a tannish wood maybe cherry, maybe beechwood. Any exposed wood should have a tarred look just determining how much exposed wood there should be. Instead of painting the wood outright I might do a composite with stain and paint so the wood peaks through if I can learn how to do that. These ships are somewhat like pilot boats but they are part of the coast guard so I imagine the color scheme was somewhat regimented rather than decorative. I may end up exposing more wood than was historically accurate but that's due to aesthetic appreciation of the wood a shame to have it all buried under paint.
  9. CharlieZardoz
    As stated in my other post the Resolution kit mystery has been solved. She is actually a model of the HMS ferret of 1711 frm Chapelle's books here are the plans everything is exactly as it should be.
  10. CharlieZardoz
    Yes you are correct. It's been explained to me by my "betters" so will redraw the bow and stern lines a bit and will post more pics when I do the other side. The garboard came up too high which affected the flow of the rest. This is why I do pencil first easy to erase and start again!
  11. CharlieZardoz
    Vossiewulf well I would say this the Amati nina pinta santa maria is based off those replicas that were built in 1992. Same as model shipways mayflower is based off mayflower II. In that way id enjoy building them since id be building models of the replicas. Also as replicas they seem to have had more thought put into their construction research etc. Regarding Resolution and Virginia they look like they were based off of some plan but finding out will be a matter of research
  12. CharlieZardoz
    Ah thank you I shall correct
  13. CharlieZardoz
    That's another nice one, Spanish galleons are even harder since plans of them typically don't exist the best you can find is contemporary illustrations so I imagine that the best way to go would be to collect books on Spanish galleons and hope to find some sort of painting and sketch from that time period which shows something similar. Could also be an example of a kit company repurposing a model under a diff nationality like for example Soclaine Le Tonnant is really just the Rattlesnake with some extra swirly stuff to make it look Friench.
  14. CharlieZardoz
    Yeah my point is that kit manufacturers take a kit that was designed by someone 50 plus years ago then market it with some sort of famousish name but offtimes the real ship looks nothing like the kit. Buuuuut that doesnt mean the kit is fictitious often it was based off of some plan or drawing like chapman. For example the jamaica kit shark and shine are all bermuda sloop variations as is that Virginia kit which is some sort of pilot schooner with a cannon added to it. That said the resolution kit is of special interest since that is a model of a sloop not a cutter and ive seen similar type ships so I imagine that model was based off of some plan but I dont have a resource book of small british ships to cross reference designs with. If anyone could recommend such a book that be great.
  15. CharlieZardoz
    Thank you sir! You can tell by the design these were built for speed like a dart in the water. I'm thinking of moving the drop planks/(steelers?) down by 1 however overall it looks pretty good. Mind you this hull is 8" so the detailing is smaller than it looks in the pic.
  16. CharlieZardoz
    And that's one side done. What does everyone think? You can see I did a few steelers and drop planks for this extreme design was necessary. Also remember the planks get thinner the closer to the deck we go and wider the further down to the keel from like 1/8" to 3/32nd". I think it looks fairly decent and flows well.
  17. CharlieZardoz
    Aaaaand did the planking lines as well. First started by getting the garboard plank laid out then went down from the sheer and up from the keel as so.
  18. CharlieZardoz
    And here is the side profile, fits perfectly. Little crew dude added
  19. CharlieZardoz
    Today I drew the deck detailing where planks, hatches, masts, windows and pivot cannon will go.
  20. CharlieZardoz
    Sir meow they should look like this. If that is not the case then let me know this is a screencap
  21. CharlieZardoz
    Type III: standard wale In this version the wale does not change color, instead the sheer and lower hull and stripe communicate design. It's more suttle and perhaps more European in it's display of coloring however I've seen a model of Artesania Latina's Dallas done like #16 so it could work as well, though not quite my favorite. So that's the idea, the next step will be to do a mock plank job and see how they look, feedback is welcomed and see ya all next year ya salty sea dogs, arggh!!!
  22. CharlieZardoz
    Type II: the workhorse This design has a lot of exposed wood up top by the sheer and the design is to denote usefulness over style. The wooden areas wouldn't be painted since the area would be constantly in use. It still has a changing wale and the cap rail is black but can also be wood (chose a lighter wood to contrast see #12) with some variations as shown. This would allow more of the models wood to be exposed and appreciated aesthetically but could also be too complex.
  23. CharlieZardoz
    Greetings everyone! So I spent the good part of a day really working through the color patterns possible for these simple ships and anyone who's been following my other post of ship colors knows this has been eating at me. But I believe I've come to 3 main plausible color variation types so without further adieu here they are! Type I: Flashy This design for me looks the most upscale. Most of the hull is painted in black, the sheer and hull areas don't change. Color changes via the wale and stripe above the wale. The 31 ton has a tarred brown basic wale, the 51 uses copper/green and white, then the 80 ton uses ochre and a red strip. Cap rails are white though they could also be wood finish (see #6) or black. I like white/tallow since it gives the 31 and 52 two stripes like clippers and other revenue cutter images ive seen. There is a gradual increase in color complexity from 1 to 2 to 3 colors to denote class and importance of the ship assuming the larger ships had more prominent functions and could be identified by commanders. I overall really like this design though it may be a bit on the flashy side, it follows Pride of Baltimore II the model of Achilles, Swift and other revenue cutter images which seem to have 2 white or tallow stripes so this design does has a reference point.
  24. CharlieZardoz
    These are all beautiful models so nicely done. I think there is a joy that comes from trying different approaches and see what work best for you. For me I like the nail indentations and acknowledge that sometimes modeling small details may not be exactly to scale (like treenailing), some stuff gets exaggerated a bit in order to add pleasing detail to a model. I'm going to speak more with Dan (shipmodel) about all this process and see about things like should the plates overlap etc
  25. CharlieZardoz
    Honestly from what I'm looking through I feel the copper tape is the best and most realistic way to go. So I will do that

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