jbelwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from etubino in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
My current project brings me back to my first love of model railroading. The below image shows an HO scale steel trestle
and scenery that I built for a client some 15 years ago. I am currently building the same trestle kit (Micro Scale Models) but
in a longer (270') and higher (87') version for a close friend. Scenery to be added is yet another story. Quite a departure from
the Portland, I'd say.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from coxswain in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Have been away from my computer for the past week. Spent the week visiting my daughter and SIL
in their summer cottage in Digby, Nova Scotia. Photo was taken in November last year. All last week
the Bay of Fundy was extremely calm. Digby is advertised as the World's Scallop Capitol. Bought them
fresh off the boat.
Thin line in my photo of their photo is due to failed pixel sensor.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from RFP in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Have been away from my computer for the past week. Spent the week visiting my daughter and SIL
in their summer cottage in Digby, Nova Scotia. Photo was taken in November last year. All last week
the Bay of Fundy was extremely calm. Digby is advertised as the World's Scallop Capitol. Bought them
fresh off the boat.
Thin line in my photo of their photo is due to failed pixel sensor.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life.
Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did.
I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the
wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and
rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful
to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest
washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray
painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
I drew the water line on the bare hull just to get the position of the scribe correct. Being very careful,
I removed the hull and painted it completely with primer and white. Then placed it back into the original
position. Since it was now positioned exactly as before, I simply drew a new water line onto the newly painted hull.
Now I placed the Tamiya tape just above the new pencil line, and checked it several times for accuracy.
Then covered the white area above the Tamiya tape with wide blue painters tape. Make sure the WL tape
it pressed down securely to prevent bleeding.
When you are satisfied, remove the hull and spray the bottom paint in several light coats until you get the
desired result. I removed the tape after about 15 minutes of drying time.
Yes Norm, that's me. What you saw was the trailer for the one hour video that was for sale several years ago.
It was sold out years ago. They had to remove the music that accompanied it due to product infringement.
Those interested simply go to you tube and punch in "John Elwood Model Railroader". Here's an example
of my work in keeping with the maritime theme. I have many more photos but don't want to interrupt this
thread with silly model railroad stuff.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from SigEp Ziggy in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Before you go any further, take a look at this photo. In particular the paddle box cover. At this point
in the build, I couldn't determine where the cover ended. Was it at the main deck or further up just past the
saloon deck. No where in the instructions did it tell you to completely cover the box or not. I took a chance
and completely covered it down to the main deck as shown in the photo. I guess I did it correctly as the
build has gone smoothly since.
Out of curiosity, what did you do Dan? You can probably catch a few other little problems, but we'll talk about
those later in the build.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Hull primed with Rust-Oleum flat gray primer.p
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Before you go any further, take a look at this photo. In particular the paddle box cover. At this point
in the build, I couldn't determine where the cover ended. Was it at the main deck or further up just past the
saloon deck. No where in the instructions did it tell you to completely cover the box or not. I took a chance
and completely covered it down to the main deck as shown in the photo. I guess I did it correctly as the
build has gone smoothly since.
Out of curiosity, what did you do Dan? You can probably catch a few other little problems, but we'll talk about
those later in the build.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Norm,
I cleaned it with alcohol and q-tips as best I could. Lousy job at best. Sprayed it without using primer but, looking back, I
probably should have done so. Floquil seems to adhere quite well on it's own.
And yes, some of the paint has chipped away but easy to touch up.
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jbelwood got a reaction from Jack12477 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
I drew the water line on the bare hull just to get the position of the scribe correct. Being very careful,
I removed the hull and painted it completely with primer and white. Then placed it back into the original
position. Since it was now positioned exactly as before, I simply drew a new water line onto the newly painted hull.
Now I placed the Tamiya tape just above the new pencil line, and checked it several times for accuracy.
Then covered the white area above the Tamiya tape with wide blue painters tape. Make sure the WL tape
it pressed down securely to prevent bleeding.
When you are satisfied, remove the hull and spray the bottom paint in several light coats until you get the
desired result. I removed the tape after about 15 minutes of drying time.
Yes Norm, that's me. What you saw was the trailer for the one hour video that was for sale several years ago.
It was sold out years ago. They had to remove the music that accompanied it due to product infringement.
Those interested simply go to you tube and punch in "John Elwood Model Railroader". Here's an example
of my work in keeping with the maritime theme. I have many more photos but don't want to interrupt this
thread with silly model railroad stuff.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from hexnut in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Before you go any further, take a look at this photo. In particular the paddle box cover. At this point
in the build, I couldn't determine where the cover ended. Was it at the main deck or further up just past the
saloon deck. No where in the instructions did it tell you to completely cover the box or not. I took a chance
and completely covered it down to the main deck as shown in the photo. I guess I did it correctly as the
build has gone smoothly since.
Out of curiosity, what did you do Dan? You can probably catch a few other little problems, but we'll talk about
those later in the build.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from hexnut in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Don't be too concerned about the wrong orientation of the floats. Just make sure the floats are
ahead of the spokes in the direction of forward rotation. Once installed only the lower 30 per cent
of the wheel will be visible. In the above port side photo, the wheel is still removable. Paddle box cover
not yet painted or glued in place. Can't understand why the photo got inserted mid sentence.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Before you go any further, take a look at this photo. In particular the paddle box cover. At this point
in the build, I couldn't determine where the cover ended. Was it at the main deck or further up just past the
saloon deck. No where in the instructions did it tell you to completely cover the box or not. I took a chance
and completely covered it down to the main deck as shown in the photo. I guess I did it correctly as the
build has gone smoothly since.
Out of curiosity, what did you do Dan? You can probably catch a few other little problems, but we'll talk about
those later in the build.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from coxswain in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Before you go any further, take a look at this photo. In particular the paddle box cover. At this point
in the build, I couldn't determine where the cover ended. Was it at the main deck or further up just past the
saloon deck. No where in the instructions did it tell you to completely cover the box or not. I took a chance
and completely covered it down to the main deck as shown in the photo. I guess I did it correctly as the
build has gone smoothly since.
Out of curiosity, what did you do Dan? You can probably catch a few other little problems, but we'll talk about
those later in the build.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from Jack12477 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from J11 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life.
Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did.
I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the
wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and
rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful
to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest
washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray
painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from J11 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Don't be too concerned about the wrong orientation of the floats. Just make sure the floats are
ahead of the spokes in the direction of forward rotation. Once installed only the lower 30 per cent
of the wheel will be visible. In the above port side photo, the wheel is still removable. Paddle box cover
not yet painted or glued in place. Can't understand why the photo got inserted mid sentence.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Thanks Mark, I should have known that.
Note to Norm, re: MSG question. Lighthouse on CMMS home page yet to be identified.
John
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jbelwood got a reaction from tasmanian in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
I drew the water line on the bare hull just to get the position of the scribe correct. Being very careful,
I removed the hull and painted it completely with primer and white. Then placed it back into the original
position. Since it was now positioned exactly as before, I simply drew a new water line onto the newly painted hull.
Now I placed the Tamiya tape just above the new pencil line, and checked it several times for accuracy.
Then covered the white area above the Tamiya tape with wide blue painters tape. Make sure the WL tape
it pressed down securely to prevent bleeding.
When you are satisfied, remove the hull and spray the bottom paint in several light coats until you get the
desired result. I removed the tape after about 15 minutes of drying time.
Yes Norm, that's me. What you saw was the trailer for the one hour video that was for sale several years ago.
It was sold out years ago. They had to remove the music that accompanied it due to product infringement.
Those interested simply go to you tube and punch in "John Elwood Model Railroader". Here's an example
of my work in keeping with the maritime theme. I have many more photos but don't want to interrupt this
thread with silly model railroad stuff.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from J11 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget
what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can.
The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been
for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in
Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade
ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Don't be too concerned about the wrong orientation of the floats. Just make sure the floats are
ahead of the spokes in the direction of forward rotation. Once installed only the lower 30 per cent
of the wheel will be visible. In the above port side photo, the wheel is still removable. Paddle box cover
not yet painted or glued in place. Can't understand why the photo got inserted mid sentence.
John Elwood
-
jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life.
Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did.
I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the
wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and
rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful
to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken.
Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest
washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray
painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel.
John Elwood
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