davec

Breastwork installed.

Quarterdeck installed on finished side.  I made and installed the waterway, then glued the planks together.  I made a cardstock pattern for where the notches for the stanchions needed to be.  I double back taped the decking to a piece of sacrificial wood, then made the notches with the table saw.
 

Gangway knees, gangway, newel post, and railing installed.

I'm working on the ladder to the gangway now.  Just the ladder, finish to the newel post and rail, stand, and touch up to complete.  

Breastwork installed.

Quarterdeck installed on finished side.  I made and installed the waterway, then glued the planks together.  I made a cardstock pattern for where the notches for the stanchions needed to be.  I double back taped the decking to a piece of sacrificial wood, then made the notches with the table saw.
 

Gangway knees, gangway, newel post, and railing installed.

I'm working on the ladder to the gangway now.  Just the ladder, finish to the newel post and rail, stand, and touch up to complete.  

Similar evolution - folding table in corner of basement between dryer and cat litter box (lint and cat hair on everything - very bad for finishes) to single unfinished basement room, to 2 1/2 finished basement rooms (converted part of garage) to new house with single large basement room with as much floor space as prior 2 1/2 rooms, but much easier to use efficiently.  Only took 25 years.  My family has been very tolerant, but I think I've finally reached the limit.

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
 
I build the Royal Caroline model without the luxurious and pompus
interior of the Royal Apartments.
 
The following pictures of the beautiful and magnificent models by
Attila Králl and Doris Obrucova show how these rooms were possibly equipped.
 
Karl
 
Part 16
 

 
 

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
 
Small update:
Partitions and deck beams installed.
Karl
 
Part 15
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Small update,   Interior work.
 
Balkweger, Kattspore and mast track installed.
 
Karl 
 
 
Part 14
 

Final assembly of the carvings after the reconstruction work
on the window openings and gun ports.
 
Karl
 
Part 13

 
 
 

The dimensions of the carvings made a modification of the window openings
and gunports are absolutely necessary.
My mistake in the frame construction or the finished size of the carvings,
no matterit müsst be changed.
 
Karl
 
Part 12
 
Google Translator
 

The mirror, as well as on both sides window bay window
with its carvings I have already finished,
with the oriels still missing carvings  /  figures attached later.
I have decided not or color this model, or only black/brown
wood stain for the moldings and golg color for the numeros crowns.
The model will look a bit different from really beautiful and colorful
models of Maarten or Doris, etc.
First off all, I will start with the interior design of the model.
Karl
 
Part 11
 

 

Carving-Set ROYAL CAROLINE 1749
 
Karl
 
Part 10
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I found some solid copper 26 ga. wire at Michaels.  I took the solder well.  The pieces were cut to the same size, ends squares up with a file, bent to a ring and soldered. After pickling they look good. They will be pinched and shaped for the deadeyes.

 
The chain plates have been drilled and cleaned up.  I'll round the bottoms a bit before I go any further.
 

Maury

Thanks for all the likes!
 
Here are the masts with centerlines marked.  Hopefully that will help with the tapering.  There also are my curved bolster and headrail pieces--

 
I cut the bolster piece down to two pieces of approximate length, and while holding one up to the bow, put a pencil lead through the holes from the inboard side to mark their locations on the bolster--
 

 
Then pilot holes were drilled.  They need to be at a downward and forward angle relative to the bolster piece.  The holes will be filed out larger, while checking that they match up with what's on the model--

 
The aft end needs to be shaped--
 
And given a stepped end.  I'm not sure if the actual one was made up of two separate layers of wood, or simply carved as I am doing--

 
Seeing how it looks in place--

 
Either I didn't capture the right profile, or it just doesn't look good to me.  I changed it to a simple curve, and you can see I've enlarged the hawse holes a bit--

 
The wales needed to be roughened up to make sure glue will bond--

 
And they are now glued in place.  (Optical illusion-the stepped ends disappeared!  They are there, but the at this angle they don't show.  I actually ran back to the model to make sure after I looked at this photo!)  Final shaping of the holes will happen after these have set--

 
Meanwhile the headrail piece has been cut in half, and those pieces are sawed lengthwise--

 
I have thinner flat stock I could have used, but it hadn't sunk in how thin these pieces really needed to be, I just grabbed a piece from my odds and ends bin that looked about right.  Actually though, it was easier to bend the square shape than it would have a flatter one on it's thin edge anyway.  They are a little rough-- 

 
But after sanding a little, I think they will work--
 
 
Ron

Welcome, Dowmer; and thanks NateB!
 
The masts have been roughed out and marked for the next steps--

 
The first pieces for the bow work are ready to be subjected to trial and error.  The pear piece is for the hawse hole bolsters, and the Castello Boxwood is for part of the headrails--

 
The hawse hole bolsters will need to be ebonized.  It's one of my favorite processes on the model--it reminds me of developing prints in the darkroom in the old days--magical.  But my magic solution has dried out and needs to be rejuvenated.  Pouring vinegar into a small jar of rusted nails--

 
These were steeped in vinegar last year (hence the black crustiness), but they've dried out over the past year and need to be re-steeped--

 
What fun.
Ron
 
 

Thanks much hamilton!
 
Now that the boat is done (as much as I am going to do), I'm going to work on the masts.
 
Here are my calculations of the dimensions for the two masts, using Lee's book for guidance--

 
I had started the masts a while ago (years now!), and was unsuccessful.  The top piece was my attempt at the main mast which was too short, too thin, and I didn't like the way the hounds turned out.  The third one down was going to be my foremast, but it is too short.  That roughly cut piece in the middle of the group of three will be my new foremast.  The lowest piece is the second try at the main mast, which is (so far) on track to turn out okay.  You can see on the printed drawing where I have adjusted the heel length to account for the shallower draft of my lake vs. ocean brig--  

 
The piece that is to become the fore mast was cut very ragged, from thick stock.  It needs a ton of sanding to get it smooth, square and down to size--

 
It's getting there, the marks indicate that I don't initially sand that side--
 
 
While I work on the masts, I am also going to work on the head rails, and in preparation I'm bending some stock.  Sometimes you just have to look around the house for the right radius--

 
Ron

Thanks, Martin.  Here's some more progress!
 
I got lucky somehow with the first tie-down.  The second one took a few tries.  The first test fitting showed it was too short.  I considered lashing it anyway, but my conscience wouldn't let me--

 
So I cut another piece, a little longer, and threaded the hooks onto it--

 
I seized the port side hook--

 
And test fit it.  Too long now--

 
I trimmed a few millimeters off each end, and reformed the eye splices.  You can see the dab of glue that forms the splice--

 
That one was also just a smidge too long--

 
I trimmed again, formed another eye splice, and finally it was just right, so I seized near the hook, and lashed the eye splices together--

 
By the way I found my missing oar!!  Here are the five lashed together--

 
But to my dismay, I could not slide them under the battens!!  The battens and tie downs can't be removed now without messing with the hooks (or cutting the lashings and seizing's), and I don't want to do that--

 
So close--

 
I discovered that one side of the seat was not glued tight, and it lifted to let me push the oars under--

 
And I was able to push the front batten forward (I had put just a touch of glue to secure it, but was able to gently break it free) just enough to slide the delicate oar handles under it--
 
 
The work on the tie downs was tedious, and I took shortcuts with the splices and lashings.  I need to improve my rope skills, but for a start, there's the boat, fastened nice and snug!!   -- 


 
Ron
 

How much can I bore you with incremental progress!?
 
Here is the tie-down, ready for further work--

 
One end is "seized" (I don't know the proper term)--

 
And back in place, rope is (at the other end) thread through the eye splices--

 
And the wire cut--

 
Just to end with something interesting, while glue on the knots dries, a shot looking down the deck--
 
 
Ron

Thanks Bossman, Martin, John, and Lou, and everyone who hit the "like" button.  I'm glad you guys are still around and watching!  
 
Work continues on the tie-downs for the boat.  I cut a couple of pieces--not sure what you would call these--but they will notch into the wales of the boat and guide the ropes that will tie it down.  After rounding the ends, a shallow groove is filed into each end--

And on the underside, two notches are filed--

They fit across the boat like this==

 
You can also see the ringbolts placed in the deck that the ends of the ropes will be hooked into--

 
That's all for now!
Ron
 

Meanwhile I've marked port-side for tree-nailing and made a first attempt with pear amidships:

With the upper planking done the next step should have been to plank the wales with their second layer. I decided to
skip ahead and install the 3/16" x 1/16" fairing cap. The fairing cap from the hance to the bow and stern are permanent
while the piece at the waist is temporary. The fairing cap helped maintain the 3/16" thickness of the bulkhead.
The sanding, chiseling and sanding some more of the inboard bulkheads took a few days but is mostly completed.
I wanted to do this now to save any damage to the wale that may occur with my handling.   
 
The pieces of the aft portion were just straight and fit easily. The pieces at the bow took a bit more time.
I took a 1/16" sheet and placed it on the bulkhead. I the traced the outside edge, flipped it over and drew a rough
second line 3/16" inside the first. Cut out on the scroll saw, glued it on and then finished sanding it down to a
consistent 3/16".
 

 

 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 
I've got a bit of shop cleaning to do before I continue on. After a good cleaning I'll line off the hull
using Chucks supplied tick strips.  

The last few days were spent cutting 250 strips of 1/4"x3/64" for the hull planking. I found it interesting
that the strips cut from the same billet changed color not only when you worked your way through the billet
but also from end to end. Here is the strips cut from one billet. I separated the strips from each billet into
separate packages to aid in trying to use similar planks next to each other.
Also strips that look similar end up having a different look when the finished is applied.
 

 

 
I cut out the drop plank and placed it after lining off the first two strakes.
 

 

 
Well yesterday I thought I would be posting this update but when I looked at the first two strakes below the wales I
did not like the way it looked at the stern. I had to remove the last three planks and redo it. I'm happier now.
I then applied the first coat of wipe on poly.
 

 

 
Next should be putting on the second layer of the wales and the black strake. I'm contemplating
finishing planking the hull to minimize scraping the finished wales. I tend to manipulate the hull
a lot when I plank. I will hold it upside down, spin it around, have it in my lap etc.  
 
Have to think about that for a bit. Hmmmmm

Weak/Week in the Knees
After too much research (I'm cursed by this habit/addiction! 😩) and a week of dithering I decided to alter the arrangement of knees from the simpler, yet elegant, plans. In the AoTS books Diana and Pandora, the lodging knees forward of frame 0 abut to the aft side of the beams, there are knees between the beam arms and there is a transition where there are two overlapping lodging knees or a scarphed pair.  
 
Mess deck of HMS Pandora (Anatomy of the Ship, McKay)
 
Mess deck of HMS Diana (AoTS, White)
 
 
[aside: this content editor is giving me grief on my iPad 😡]
 
I couldn’t visualize the "transition" knees but, lo' and behold, there was a picture in HMS Trincomalee by Davies:

I took ideas from all of these plans.
 
First, I notched the deck clamp for the beams. In an attempt to be consistent I resorted to scribing the depth of these notches by using dividers from a drafting set my father gave me when I was 12! 





Dry-fitting the beams

Now on to the lodging knees.  I drew up the additional knees and my rearrangement.  At this time I decided to incorporate a hatchway to the hold and...(gulp)...I'm debating about putting in the well and shot locker 😫😭.  I decided a while ago not to do this because it will obstruct the view into this tiny model, but after recently looking at Ainar's wonderful work I may just have to add these. (Sigh)
 
I cut some birch stock and glued on templates. Shaping these pieces challenged me and it took me a while to work out exactly how I could do this and maintain consistency. Just holding them was troublesome!  I was most worried that the knees needed to look identical from port to starboard. So, I roughly shaped each knee and then clamped together opposites and fine-shaped them as one piece. I had to use several tools to accomplish this but needle files, diamond files and small rifflers did not work well and I ended up attaching  sandpaper to chopsticks for the final shaping.  Once I had the work flow figured out I could shape a pair in about 10-15 minutes.  
Now my headaches will be what do I do next?! Once this deck is in place I won’t have easy access to the hold...so I'm going to sit down with a bottle if aspirin and do some more careful planning!
 
Clear skies!
Gabe
 
 

Thanks All,
 
After manipulation of the NMM plans in Autocad I have now also completed the design of the hull framing parts and where their joints will be.
I need to make a load of these and construct the shadow box, I’m not going to make actual chocked joints - just simulate them and highlight with black monofilament line treenails.
This could take a while.
 
ben

Hi Derek, thanks for reply. Information at the beginning of the log I meant that there is no fixed orlop deck. At first I thought I wouldn't install this removable orlop deck at all, but later I changed my decision.
I added the barrels to the water hold and covered the whole with the remaining deck beams.

To arms!
 
I had a clear idea of how I was going to fit the beam arms to the beam. I would need to concentrate on creating notches that lined up, were square and had tight junctions.  Well, easier said than done!  I first trimmed all the planking and sanded the ends on a flat surface. A single coat of varethane was applied to the outer frames to keep dirt off and minimize damage.  

I dry fit the beam to determine the proper placement of the beam arms.  Once laid out I used an exacto knife to mark where the notches would need to be made, maintaining a correct alignment of opposite beams arms. The microsaw allowed me to create the stop cuts.  I needed to use the very tip of the xacto blade to carefully chisel out the notches. A slip here and I might have knocked out a giant chip, wrecking all the work...but what’s new?! All of us are in this boat (🤪) together! 

 


It took a lot of trimming, scraping and cursing to fit the beam arms and, in the end, I had a few unsightly gaps and mistakes.  I then reminded myself that this work will likely never be seen.  Besides, I collected dust from sanding the frames and will be adding it to the glue when the time comes to fill in the voids!😳🤣

Clear skies!
Gabe
 
 

I set up my little table saw to make carlings. I’m astounded that I had to make over a metre of 2.6mm x 2.6mm stock for this tiny model! (And there will be way more needed for the ledges!) As I was cutting all the carlings I was mulling over the next steps and realized that I need to deal with the beam arms before anything else. The stock material  was made by resawing some birch left over from the frames. 

 

 
 
 
 
(Kind of messy job with the spray glue!)
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
My biggest concern in making these beam arms was to make sure I had the spacing and sizes all consistent.  At thIs scale, just a fraction of a millimetre would be noticeable.  So I devised a plan to mark and shape the pieces so that they all matched.  After I glued on templates I sanded each raw blank carefully to where the beam arms needed to be notched. This allowed me to line up those notches when I clamped all four beam arms together.  I then made the stop cuts for the notches by cutting across all four beam arms at once. 



 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
Using a square and knife to mark the notches.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Marking all done.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Using this microsaw to make the stop cuts
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
I separated the pieces, made several depth cuts in the notched out areas, and used a small chisel to rough cut the material. I concentrated on getting one beam arm completed by filing, sanding, scraping and praying.  This first beam arm would become the template for the remaining ones, which were first rough-shaped on the belt sander and then clamped altogether for final shaping.  Although not perfect, I'm pleased with the end products. It was good practice for when I will do the same for the gun deck.
 




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Depth cuts to assist in making the notches
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Taking out material using a small chisel.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 



 
 
 
 
 
Filing to the lines.
 
 
 

 
First beam arm done.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Three more to go! 

Getting ready for final shaping.

 
 
 
 
 
 
Here are all the tools I used to make these! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
One wrong move and...🤬😢😫

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The whole time I worked on these I chuckled at how much anxiety they were able to create and how much they reminded me of the wishbone from the Operation game!  And about as big! 

 
Clear skies!
Gabe