NMBROOK
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NMBROOK reacted to Ponto in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Thanks everyone for your likes and patience with my rants. The first planking is complete aside from the stern which needs to be buttoned up after some test fitting with the supplied castings. I'm quite happy with the symmetry and the shape along the hull from all perspectives. At this point, only the gun deck is glued in place and the other decks fit accurately with my preliminary pin placements. I suppose my next plan of attack is knocking out the openings for all the fire power.........and then fitting out the gun deck ---- I don't know if there is any advantage to finish the final planking with wales or to complete the gun deck beforehand..............
JP
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks to all for nice comments .
So after about a month of hard work is the planking of the hull under wales finally done.
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thank you Greg.
Although it is not historically accurate, I decided to leave the hull without copper plating. On the other hand, the whole hull will be with treenails. So I started the "mass" production of the pins (about 8,000 pieces).
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks to all. The idea for making treenails with needle is not mine, I learned this method from russian modelers .
To rtropp: see enclosed picture - front side of the block with treenail is covered with masking tape, block is cuted off with saw. After removing tape you can easily eject treenails from the block.
After endless hours I finished the hull treenailing. Result will be more visible after waxing.
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks Greg,
you are right - not hours but days .
I finished the first part of planking above wales. This part will not be colored, so I used here the treenails.
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NMBROOK reacted to UpstateNY in Red Dragon by UpstateNY - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:60
Hi All,
A little more progress to report before I take off to spend a few days in the Vermont mountains with the family.
The six deck bitts have been made from 3x3mm walnut strip and some blackened brass rod before pinning and gluing to the deck. The poop deck windlass was remade as a test using thicker walnut dowel for the center bar with some thinner walnut only used to simulate the axles. Once more blackened brass is used for the bars. I preferred this over the earlier versions I built to the plans so it is now also pinned and glued to the deck. Now I need to remake the other 5!
The brass cannon port rings I made in the last post were also blackened and glued to the inside bulkwarks. I can now move ahead to rig the canons using either the 2 or 3mm single blocks that just arrived from Chuck. Carriages I made are very small so I expect the 2mm will look better, but I am wondering how I will hold onto them long enough to rig them!
The bowsprit was made per the plans from some 4x4mm walnut. I inlaid some thick blackened brass rods into the walnut to simulate some fastenings down to the deck. Again it is glued and pinned to the deck.
Finally, I went ahead and test fit the masts and flagstaff before I start to taper them....it was good to see the Dragon finally gain some height!
Thanks for reading and of course for the likes.
Cheers,
Nigel.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Brian and Bob I purchased boxwood 'stringing' from Original Marquetry in the UK.It comes in various square sizes from 3.2mm down to 0.8mm which is what I used in this instance.It easily fits in the drawplates largest hole.It comes in 1 metre lengths.The first ten or so holes in the drawplate progressively remove the corners,then the diameter starts to be reduced.Had I wanted larger nails,then I would have to use larger section.These nails are 31 thou which is a reasonably snug fit for a 0.8mm hole.I plan on taking the nails down to whatever works best in a 0.5mm hole for the decks etc.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
It has been a little hectic at work,but I have managed to finally get in the shipyard this weekend
After much deliberation and the fact I now own a Brynes drawplate,I have decided to proceed with treenailing .This is being done exclusively in boxwood and includes the areas of Ebony.This contrast I noticed on the upper areas of Dr Mike's L'Ambiteux and is a feature I particularly like.I did a small area to get an idea of the finished result and have now started the mass drill and insertion.The idea with doing this as I go along is that I have the bulkheads as a guide and also to relieve what would be a mega monotonous job when the hull is fully planked.Also it is easier to sand smooth prior to fitting the wales above and below this section.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
I haven't come across a kit yet JP that hasn't required some tweeking to the bulkheads.Mordaunts were good but not perfect.I have come to expect not to take things for granted and always check both the deck sheer and fair run for the hull planks.Time at this stage pays dividends in the long run and avoids use of copious amounts of filler if any before second planking.
I do agree that the Euromodel kit style,i.e. lack of a plethora of lasercut parts results in the builder producing a model very individual to them.I concur,this is no bad thing
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
I haven't come across a kit yet JP that hasn't required some tweeking to the bulkheads.Mordaunts were good but not perfect.I have come to expect not to take things for granted and always check both the deck sheer and fair run for the hull planks.Time at this stage pays dividends in the long run and avoids use of copious amounts of filler if any before second planking.
I do agree that the Euromodel kit style,i.e. lack of a plethora of lasercut parts results in the builder producing a model very individual to them.I concur,this is no bad thing
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Excellent work JP It is the same case with Mordaunt,the keel slopes 17mm in relation to the waterline.Easiest way I found to draw the line was to place a pack the correct height under the bow end of the keel then use the conventional block of wood with a pencil taped on at the required height.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Excellent work JP It is the same case with Mordaunt,the keel slopes 17mm in relation to the waterline.Easiest way I found to draw the line was to place a pack the correct height under the bow end of the keel then use the conventional block of wood with a pencil taped on at the required height.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Ponto in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Well, I must be doing something right, ...(but only after double and triple checking my initial effort). While the linked build log took 4.5 years to complete, it's interesting to note that similar challenges were encountered during the initial stages of construction....namely, the suspect accuracy of a number of the supplied bulkheads. Future Le Renommee builders should be prepared to address this.
After all is said and done, I'm quite sure that no two of these Euromodel kits would end up looking the same,... and I suppose this is a good thing from where I stand. I wonder if this is unique to the Euromodel brand or just a general result of wooden ship models?
JP
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Ponto in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Excellent work JP It is the same case with Mordaunt,the keel slopes 17mm in relation to the waterline.Easiest way I found to draw the line was to place a pack the correct height under the bow end of the keel then use the conventional block of wood with a pencil taped on at the required height.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Excellent work JP It is the same case with Mordaunt,the keel slopes 17mm in relation to the waterline.Easiest way I found to draw the line was to place a pack the correct height under the bow end of the keel then use the conventional block of wood with a pencil taped on at the required height.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Ponto in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
While my intent is not to direct anyone from this site, I would recommend the link supplied by Nigel as an additional source of reference........for those interested in the Le Renommee kit, the Russian builder was quite ambitious and did carve his own ornamentation and spent some time on the kit before completion. I use the build log often since for support since the Euromodel step by step instructions are sparse.......
I promised myself I would tend to the weed "issues" in the yard today but now it is raining so may as well spend time in the shipyard ... how convenient...LOL......Anyway, here are some progress shots for those interested...........
***I recently learned that the waterline is not necessarily parallel to the keel... it needs more than one measurement from the plans and in this case, is "shorter" towards the bow. Also, and it may not be apparent from the photo, I did taper the keel according to the plans,...the width is narrower toward the bow and stern while the bulk of the width is found amidship.
Thanks for looking in and enjoy.........
JP
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I did consider that route Mark,the problem I foresee is that the spiled strip will be a severe arc.This can cause the strip to break easily across its depth when I try to bend it,I have had it happen before because you are cutting across the grain too much to get the correct shape.I hope that makes sense,not the easiest thing to put into words
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from canoe21 in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Excellent work Mark Your second 'take' on the round tuck has paid off in spades.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
Hi All,
I thought I had taken more pictures of the fitting out of the middle gun deck but all I can fid is pictures of the completed deck So the guns were fitted, rigged and the rope coils added. The stove was then fitted and barrels were placed around the deck, the two large barrels lashed together near the stove are for water and the lashing will represent them being lashed to the foremast once it is fitted, as I wont be able to access this area once the next deck is fitted.
In the third photo you can see the guns rigged on the lower gun deck
The next step is to fit the upper gun deck. I will post some more pictures soon
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I did consider that route Mark,the problem I foresee is that the spiled strip will be a severe arc.This can cause the strip to break easily across its depth when I try to bend it,I have had it happen before because you are cutting across the grain too much to get the correct shape.I hope that makes sense,not the easiest thing to put into words
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Excellent work Mark Your second 'take' on the round tuck has paid off in spades.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from GLakie in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Excellent work Mark Your second 'take' on the round tuck has paid off in spades.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from UpstateNY in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I did consider that route Mark,the problem I foresee is that the spiled strip will be a severe arc.This can cause the strip to break easily across its depth when I try to bend it,I have had it happen before because you are cutting across the grain too much to get the correct shape.I hope that makes sense,not the easiest thing to put into words
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Excellent work Mark Your second 'take' on the round tuck has paid off in spades.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Brian the extraordinaire in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Brian Yes I think I am up to date for now,number 94 I think .Definitely so much more than was just in his DVD.There is also Alex Banarov's build on the Ukranian forum of Pantelemon Victoria that is also a photographic step by step of his techniques.Some techniques only really applicable to his preferred scale of 1/36.Planishing nails flush on the scales I work to would make me cringe
Kind Regards
Nigel
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