NMBROOK
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Wonderfully clean work Bob I don't know about the slow progress,the way you are going,you will have several completed builds under your belt before I have finished one
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from RichardG in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Wonderfully clean work Bob I don't know about the slow progress,the way you are going,you will have several completed builds under your belt before I have finished one
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
Summer is vacation time (although my family always asks what retired people take a vacation from ). As a result of the travel, progress slows considerably.
I do have some new work to report. I've done the planking of the counter and the transom. The first step was to trim down the outer stern frames. I did this with a #15 Exacto saw blade initially, and then sanding sticks. The planking of both areas went relatively quickly and easily, with some shaping and bending of the planks.
Next will be the fashion pieces and painting the counter.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Update for forecastle- and first waist deck,
It all looks a bit rough in the moment, The front waist-deck was made to the card template and can now be removed for planking. Need to check the hights with the little 1:144 figurine
The forecastle deck will need the anchor tubes with suit taylored outlets to the bow sides fitted in, before it is planked( only about 2/3 of it`s area (pics will follow later on )
Nils
my little room for the rough work
I fixed a preliminary,horizontal (loosenable) steel-rail, to which the drawing can be clipped (magnets)
The funnel arrangement in two groups provides the first class dining resaurant and lounges to go over the full width of the ship, this has been well accepted by the passengers, This design had also been adopted for the follower liners of the Norddeutscher Lloyd, and gave an unmistakenable silhouette for identification from the distance
three deck high, and over the ship`s width, the 1 st class dining saloon
the little white figure is used for determining the correct deck-highjts
here the deck curvature can be nicely seen
when clicking on this pic (to enlarge) the hand drawn frame distances on the drawing can be seen. I chose 26 frames over the ship`s length
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NMBROOK reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Thanks Patrick,
in answer to your questions...
the average time for a window like this is 15 minutes, and there are (my Count) 84 of this type, so that makes 1260 minutes = 21 hours
Yes, I have thought of RC Controlling, because the propshafts are functional, but I would have had to add some complicated gear System to the ruddershaft, inside that tail-cone. So I rejected that thought at an early stage already, I also trust that the ship will be much to fragile for water contact. Also I do`nt know how the plating (adhesive gluefilm) would behave in water...
Nils
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NMBROOK reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Build log part 14
preparing for the decks, cutting out card templates, will be using 0,8 mm ply and plank this with 1 x 2mm scaled pine strips, pencil "caulking" at the plank edges
Nils
inbetween I do 2 more windows at a time...
the forecastle card template and half the front waist template (one deck lower). The outer limiting timbers (forecastle sheer) will be shaped to fit the rounded transition from hull to deck
half poop deck template
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NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
Hi All,
So we move on to the Upper gun deck.
The false decks were test fitted and adjusted to ensure a tight fit against the walls, the underside was then painted whit as this will form the ceiling of the deck below.
Once dry the two deck halves were glued in place.
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NMBROOK reacted to Jeff-E in HMS Victory by Jeff-E - FINISHED - Panart - 1:78 Scale - Bow Section
After the decks had dried the next step was to plank the inside of the beak head bulkhead and then to paint the walls. This was done before planking the decks so I wouldn't have to mask around the edge of the decks.
You will notice that this deck has it's walls painted with yellow ochre.
The deck planking will be the next job
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NMBROOK reacted to Ponto in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Thanks everyone for your likes and patience with my rants. The first planking is complete aside from the stern which needs to be buttoned up after some test fitting with the supplied castings. I'm quite happy with the symmetry and the shape along the hull from all perspectives. At this point, only the gun deck is glued in place and the other decks fit accurately with my preliminary pin placements. I suppose my next plan of attack is knocking out the openings for all the fire power.........and then fitting out the gun deck ---- I don't know if there is any advantage to finish the final planking with wales or to complete the gun deck beforehand..............
JP
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks to all for nice comments .
So after about a month of hard work is the planking of the hull under wales finally done.
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thank you Greg.
Although it is not historically accurate, I decided to leave the hull without copper plating. On the other hand, the whole hull will be with treenails. So I started the "mass" production of the pins (about 8,000 pieces).
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks to all. The idea for making treenails with needle is not mine, I learned this method from russian modelers .
To rtropp: see enclosed picture - front side of the block with treenail is covered with masking tape, block is cuted off with saw. After removing tape you can easily eject treenails from the block.
After endless hours I finished the hull treenailing. Result will be more visible after waxing.
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NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
Thanks Greg,
you are right - not hours but days .
I finished the first part of planking above wales. This part will not be colored, so I used here the treenails.
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NMBROOK reacted to UpstateNY in Red Dragon by UpstateNY - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:60
Hi All,
A little more progress to report before I take off to spend a few days in the Vermont mountains with the family.
The six deck bitts have been made from 3x3mm walnut strip and some blackened brass rod before pinning and gluing to the deck. The poop deck windlass was remade as a test using thicker walnut dowel for the center bar with some thinner walnut only used to simulate the axles. Once more blackened brass is used for the bars. I preferred this over the earlier versions I built to the plans so it is now also pinned and glued to the deck. Now I need to remake the other 5!
The brass cannon port rings I made in the last post were also blackened and glued to the inside bulkwarks. I can now move ahead to rig the canons using either the 2 or 3mm single blocks that just arrived from Chuck. Carriages I made are very small so I expect the 2mm will look better, but I am wondering how I will hold onto them long enough to rig them!
The bowsprit was made per the plans from some 4x4mm walnut. I inlaid some thick blackened brass rods into the walnut to simulate some fastenings down to the deck. Again it is glued and pinned to the deck.
Finally, I went ahead and test fit the masts and flagstaff before I start to taper them....it was good to see the Dragon finally gain some height!
Thanks for reading and of course for the likes.
Cheers,
Nigel.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Thank you Brian and Bob I purchased boxwood 'stringing' from Original Marquetry in the UK.It comes in various square sizes from 3.2mm down to 0.8mm which is what I used in this instance.It easily fits in the drawplates largest hole.It comes in 1 metre lengths.The first ten or so holes in the drawplate progressively remove the corners,then the diameter starts to be reduced.Had I wanted larger nails,then I would have to use larger section.These nails are 31 thou which is a reasonably snug fit for a 0.8mm hole.I plan on taking the nails down to whatever works best in a 0.5mm hole for the decks etc.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
It has been a little hectic at work,but I have managed to finally get in the shipyard this weekend
After much deliberation and the fact I now own a Brynes drawplate,I have decided to proceed with treenailing .This is being done exclusively in boxwood and includes the areas of Ebony.This contrast I noticed on the upper areas of Dr Mike's L'Ambiteux and is a feature I particularly like.I did a small area to get an idea of the finished result and have now started the mass drill and insertion.The idea with doing this as I go along is that I have the bulkheads as a guide and also to relieve what would be a mega monotonous job when the hull is fully planked.Also it is easier to sand smooth prior to fitting the wales above and below this section.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
I haven't come across a kit yet JP that hasn't required some tweeking to the bulkheads.Mordaunts were good but not perfect.I have come to expect not to take things for granted and always check both the deck sheer and fair run for the hull planks.Time at this stage pays dividends in the long run and avoids use of copious amounts of filler if any before second planking.
I do agree that the Euromodel kit style,i.e. lack of a plethora of lasercut parts results in the builder producing a model very individual to them.I concur,this is no bad thing
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
I haven't come across a kit yet JP that hasn't required some tweeking to the bulkheads.Mordaunts were good but not perfect.I have come to expect not to take things for granted and always check both the deck sheer and fair run for the hull planks.Time at this stage pays dividends in the long run and avoids use of copious amounts of filler if any before second planking.
I do agree that the Euromodel kit style,i.e. lack of a plethora of lasercut parts results in the builder producing a model very individual to them.I concur,this is no bad thing
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Excellent work JP It is the same case with Mordaunt,the keel slopes 17mm in relation to the waterline.Easiest way I found to draw the line was to place a pack the correct height under the bow end of the keel then use the conventional block of wood with a pencil taped on at the required height.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Excellent work JP It is the same case with Mordaunt,the keel slopes 17mm in relation to the waterline.Easiest way I found to draw the line was to place a pack the correct height under the bow end of the keel then use the conventional block of wood with a pencil taped on at the required height.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Ponto in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Well, I must be doing something right, ...(but only after double and triple checking my initial effort). While the linked build log took 4.5 years to complete, it's interesting to note that similar challenges were encountered during the initial stages of construction....namely, the suspect accuracy of a number of the supplied bulkheads. Future Le Renommee builders should be prepared to address this.
After all is said and done, I'm quite sure that no two of these Euromodel kits would end up looking the same,... and I suppose this is a good thing from where I stand. I wonder if this is unique to the Euromodel brand or just a general result of wooden ship models?
JP
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Ponto in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Excellent work JP It is the same case with Mordaunt,the keel slopes 17mm in relation to the waterline.Easiest way I found to draw the line was to place a pack the correct height under the bow end of the keel then use the conventional block of wood with a pencil taped on at the required height.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Canute in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
Excellent work JP It is the same case with Mordaunt,the keel slopes 17mm in relation to the waterline.Easiest way I found to draw the line was to place a pack the correct height under the bow end of the keel then use the conventional block of wood with a pencil taped on at the required height.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Ponto in Le Renommee by Ponto - EuroModel - Scale 1:70
While my intent is not to direct anyone from this site, I would recommend the link supplied by Nigel as an additional source of reference........for those interested in the Le Renommee kit, the Russian builder was quite ambitious and did carve his own ornamentation and spent some time on the kit before completion. I use the build log often since for support since the Euromodel step by step instructions are sparse.......
I promised myself I would tend to the weed "issues" in the yard today but now it is raining so may as well spend time in the shipyard ... how convenient...LOL......Anyway, here are some progress shots for those interested...........
***I recently learned that the waterline is not necessarily parallel to the keel... it needs more than one measurement from the plans and in this case, is "shorter" towards the bow. Also, and it may not be apparent from the photo, I did taper the keel according to the plans,...the width is narrower toward the bow and stern while the bulk of the width is found amidship.
Thanks for looking in and enjoy.........
JP
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I did consider that route Mark,the problem I foresee is that the spiled strip will be a severe arc.This can cause the strip to break easily across its depth when I try to bend it,I have had it happen before because you are cutting across the grain too much to get the correct shape.I hope that makes sense,not the easiest thing to put into words
Kind Regards
Nigel
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