NMBROOK

Hi Mates,
 
Well after a bit of introspection, I realized that I needed to push myself. What was the point of buying an expensive tool and not learning how to use it to its full advantage, so Proxxon milling machine got another visit.
 
After three attempts, I got one block with four sheaves (one a bit bigger) that looked ok.
 
Next came the issue with the pulleys, and by some coincidence some left over cannon doors slipped perfectly into the grooves. So pulleys were made as follows.
 
Pics are fairly self-explanatory:
 
Drilled a center hole through each door
 
Cut the corners, and attached the four to a Dremel using one of those circular micro saw shafts
 
With a block, sanded the doors down to appropriate sized spheres.
 
Using a round head micro file initiated four small grooves
 
Then using an end bit deepened the previous grooves to appropriate looking depth
 
The “pulleys” slipped right into the block with the now correct four sheaves.
 
Looking at the close-ups, I now see that I need to re-paint the knightheads - ugly close up J
 
Also I need to re-adjust the upper gun deck ladder hooks – they stick out too far - out of scale.
 
Thanks for all of you kind comment. AND certainly your advice and encouragement.
 
Michael
 

Fabulous work Marsalv   I do like that you have fitted so many bulkheads,much better for planking than the handful on Caroline I do agree with Mark,it would be a shame to cover that great woodwork with paint.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Some pics of the completed quarter badge with window unit bonded in place
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi All
 
Just done the main deck planking.
 
The walnut planking in the kit is a bit dark.
 
I have bleached them for 30min's and washed them for an hour in running water.
 
Glued to the deck and sanded them down, but the bleach did not go through all of the wood.
I put one coat of varnish on and I have now got a zillion colours.
 
I do like this as it looks weathered.
 
Denis.

Hi Visi
 
Thank you so much for them words.
 
Long time no talk my friend.
 
Sorry you cannot see it in detail.
 
But to give you some idea you can see 2 sets of doors ie 4 in all ( baby poo brown as you call it ha ha ).
 
The gap between the 2 sets of doors was painted with a brush that has 2 hairs on it ( the paint was just about drying before I could get it on ).
 
Bit of a pain to do.
 
Denis.

Hi All
 
This is to show you how small the window panes are.
 
By the time I have drilled them out and cut them to shape they are only about 1.5mm x 1.5mm.
 
 
Denis.

Hi all
 
I have repainted the window with a lighter brown.
It may not look lighter but it is.
I now have to repaint the white ha ha.
 
Also a photo of the wet liquid glass on the back of the window.
 
Denis.

Hi all
 
Well I had a go at painting one of the windows tonight.
 
I am not sure if the brown door is too dark any ideas ??.
It is Tamiya acrylic XF-10.
 
Denis

Hi all
 
As I have just about finished the first planking I thought I will have a bit of a change.
 
So I got my milling machine out and had a go at milling the panes out of the windows.
 
It took me about 5 hours over two nights to do one.
I did have a problem with the cheap metal, it started to melt even at the milling machines lowest speed of 5,000 rpm.
 
When most of the metal was removed I trimmed the milling cuts up with a number 11 knife blade.
I now have to file them down and I think they will look OK.
This my first attempt at milling.
 
When I think it looks OK I will prime and paint them.
After that I will put some liquid glass on the back of the windows.
 
I have to say the window what I have done looks worse in the photo than it does by just looking at it on the table ha ha.
 
Denis.

Manufacturers of kits often get kicks for this or that and that is the nature of this forum. So it is good to see that people appreciate the service that Euromodel offers as shown by the above comments. Through a combination of servers in Australia and Italy, Euromodel offers a 24-hour Helpdesk and any queries can usually be responded to within 12 hours. That is the way a company should operate.
Pete

Hi all
 
I would like to say something about Euromodels.
 
But before I do I wish to thank KeithW for his post on his "RW" log.
Keith had a part missing 11247 he asked Vince, Brian and I if we had that part in our kits.
I did look and I could not find it, I also could not find parts 11248 or 11249.
 
I contacted Euromodels v the web site and ordered the parts.
I received 3 e-mails of them, the first said thank you for contacting us we will be intouch in a day or two.
The next day I had the second e-mail saying the parts that you requested will be in the post in a day or two.
The next day ( today the 4/2/2015 ) your parts have been posted today.
They are not charging me for the parts or the posting to New Zealand.
 
So I take my hat off to Euromodels not just for sending the parts for free but also for keeping me upto date with what was going on.
This is what I call sevice.
 
Not like another kit manufacturer that I will not name.
 
Denis.

Hi all
 
Just finished fitting the middle deck.
 
Although they fitted before the planking went on, I had to take some off the sides to make them fit again.
 
Denis.

Hi All
 
Some time ago I was looking at the cannon door hinges and they looked a bit chunky for my liking.
 
So I purchased a photo etch kit for HMS Vanguard.
 
I would like to thank Brian C for his help and info.
 
Denis.

Hi All
 
Just a little update ha ha.
 
I have started gluing the dummy cannon supports in on the lower deck.
 
To get the distance from the inside of the hull planking.
I made a little template ( ok it's not that good but it will do ha ha ) .
 
I cut a square out and the part that is nearest the hull planking is the line that will be the back of the cannon dummy support blocks.
 
I just put a pencil line along that edge and glued the block on that line.
 
Denis.

Hi all
 
Just a little update.
 
Port and starboard have been partly first planked.
 
Cannon ports have been located and cut out.
 
Dummy cannon supports have been cut and painted with two coats of thin black acrylic.
 
Next up is clean the lower deck and place and glue the cannon dummy supports.
 
 
Denis.

Hi All
 
I have been busy sanding the bow filler blocks, what a job that was.
 
Also done the false keel parts.
 
Denis.

Hi all.
 
This is how the deck was fitted after cutting.
 
Push deck through stern bulkhead frame.
 
Move it along till you get to bulkhead frame 6 from the stern ( or bulkhead frame 2 in the kit ) , now drop it down , you will have to bend it a little to get the deck onto the frames.
Now fit the deck.
 
Denis.

Hi All
 
Just dry fitted the lower deck.
 
Next take it all out and start to glue in place.
 
Denis

Hi All
 
Just a quick update .
 
Started to fit the spacers in between the frames.
 
Denis.

Hi
 
Well I have dived into the RW box.
 
I have dry fitted the frames, some are a bit loose and will need packing out ( about 0.50 x 5mm ).
 
Denis.

Hi all
 
Royal William.
My first impression is that the quality of the materials are excellent, the castings are also well made, not a lot of work to be done on them.
 
I have had two extra sets of plans made, one set I have had laminated so I can use a marker pen on them and I can wipe it off as necessary.
 
What did please me was that the plans were rolled and not folded.
 
The cost of the plans and laminating came to $500nz, it was the laminating that cost the most as the plans are large.
 
Time now to have a long read and study of the plans.
 
Will have to wait till the admiral goes out before I can have a play with her ha ha.
 
Denis.

Work this weekend has predominantly concentrated on reinforcement of the upper structure and fitting the deck beams.No external work can start without fitting these beams as they slide through the hull sides.
shaped plywood pieces were epoxied the length of the deck to provide support for the deck beams and to give a visual 'blackout to the lower deck.This is to counteract the fact that full internal detail and rigging of the cannons will not be carried out.Carriages will be authentic on the top but have a flat bottom to allow secure gluing to the deck.Careful studying of what is actually on show with the full cannons in place shows no other additional work is necessary.
 
The deck beams once inserted were packed with boxwood shim to increase the camber the required amount.These beams are insufficiently strong enough to be unsupported and were originally going to be set by the hanging knees and pillars.Further work after trimming the packs is to add pear chocks inbetween each beam.These will be sanded to follow the tops of the beams and the sheer.This provides further support for the sub deck but also tidies things up if a get anyone staring into the gunports
 
I have also commenced framing the counter.The width of the blocks used allows them to form the lining of the stern chasers.I milled a shallow slot in the bottom member to ease accurate positioning of these.
 
The pics show WIP,as that is it until next weekend.Then I hope to complete this work in readiness for the final shaping of the bow and stern blocks and general completion of the fairing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Work this weekend has predominantly concentrated on reinforcement of the upper structure and fitting the deck beams.No external work can start without fitting these beams as they slide through the hull sides.
shaped plywood pieces were epoxied the length of the deck to provide support for the deck beams and to give a visual 'blackout to the lower deck.This is to counteract the fact that full internal detail and rigging of the cannons will not be carried out.Carriages will be authentic on the top but have a flat bottom to allow secure gluing to the deck.Careful studying of what is actually on show with the full cannons in place shows no other additional work is necessary.
 
The deck beams once inserted were packed with boxwood shim to increase the camber the required amount.These beams are insufficiently strong enough to be unsupported and were originally going to be set by the hanging knees and pillars.Further work after trimming the packs is to add pear chocks inbetween each beam.These will be sanded to follow the tops of the beams and the sheer.This provides further support for the sub deck but also tidies things up if a get anyone staring into the gunports
 
I have also commenced framing the counter.The width of the blocks used allows them to form the lining of the stern chasers.I milled a shallow slot in the bottom member to ease accurate positioning of these.
 
The pics show WIP,as that is it until next weekend.Then I hope to complete this work in readiness for the final shaping of the bow and stern blocks and general completion of the fairing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This has to be the finest model I have seen in my lifetime.The video is of a UK TV series extreme machines presented by Jeremy Clarkson.It shows a Ferrari 312pb featuring a WORKING exact scale replica of the engine and gearbox.The thing even sounds right!!!
 

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Work this weekend has predominantly concentrated on reinforcement of the upper structure and fitting the deck beams.No external work can start without fitting these beams as they slide through the hull sides.
shaped plywood pieces were epoxied the length of the deck to provide support for the deck beams and to give a visual 'blackout to the lower deck.This is to counteract the fact that full internal detail and rigging of the cannons will not be carried out.Carriages will be authentic on the top but have a flat bottom to allow secure gluing to the deck.Careful studying of what is actually on show with the full cannons in place shows no other additional work is necessary.
 
The deck beams once inserted were packed with boxwood shim to increase the camber the required amount.These beams are insufficiently strong enough to be unsupported and were originally going to be set by the hanging knees and pillars.Further work after trimming the packs is to add pear chocks inbetween each beam.These will be sanded to follow the tops of the beams and the sheer.This provides further support for the sub deck but also tidies things up if a get anyone staring into the gunports
 
I have also commenced framing the counter.The width of the blocks used allows them to form the lining of the stern chasers.I milled a shallow slot in the bottom member to ease accurate positioning of these.
 
The pics show WIP,as that is it until next weekend.Then I hope to complete this work in readiness for the final shaping of the bow and stern blocks and general completion of the fairing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel