NMBROOK

It's been a while.
 
I was working on Victory, but then I was sent my new designs for the Prince in laser cut and PE parts, so I figuered I'd build up the prince hull first, so that I can courier the hull over to Amati. They will then get a very good carver to make all new carvings for the model, have them cast, and then send me back the hull and loose catings. I can then continue, and finally finish the Prince!
 
When the prince is with Amati, I shall complete the Victory drawings/plans/instructions, which should be no later than Summer.
 
I know Amati are keen to finalise both Prince and Victory, and I am hoping Victory will be ready for release either late this year or very early next.
 
I have attached a couple of pics of Prince in progress. I have just completed the first planking. I re-done the designs to include three more main bulkheads, (almost) full length decks from lover gun deck upwards, and the new gun port designs that are now intergeral to the hull, rather than the 1mm ply gun port patterns of the old design.

I,like Matti prefer a brush.The biggest issue with wood,especially basswood,is that the first coat lifts the grain.I tend to apply lots of thin coats by brush with plenty of flatting back every couple of coats.You are gaining very little tooling up with an airbrush as any imperfections are sanded away anyway.However I do spray everything with clear polyurethane afterwards.
Painting areas that will be hard to reach as you go is highly recommended.
As Matti says though,there is no right and wrong,we just find a method that works best for us.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Lawrence It is far too long since any sawdust has been made on this build and the current renewed interest is only increasing my desire to resume work on her shortly.I do,however want to get to a stage where I can put Mordaunt to one side for a little while,which means getting some more structure into the upper hull to prevent any warping.I have however been amassing lots of pear offcuts for the carvings on Sovereign
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello shipmates,I thank you all for visiting my build log and also for your likes. A little  progress to my build.
 
Cheers
Dimitris

Hello MSW Great stuff this build log . What I would like to see is an aftermarket upgrade - or let us say a "downgrade" - for the Victory to build her in an older configuration before 1800 with the balconies on the stern and so on as seen on some pictures. just an idea regards ludger

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Thanks for the suggestion, Nigel. I saw Dr. Mike use that technique. As a MD myself, I have a near limitless supply of hypodermic needles In fact, I appropriated some from work to try. I have a selection of 18G (the largest), 2G, 22G, and 25G. I think i'll start at 22G (blue needles) and work from there. I am not sure if I have enough pear to waste on making treenails. I would rather use a cheaper wood species if possible. 

Hi Greg, I do have some fancy toothpicks which I picked up from a thrift store. It did not occur to me to stiffen them with 50/50 PVA prior to turning - thanks for that idea. My efforts at turning toothpicks thus far have been extremely disappointing. The wood does not hold a sharp edge, has too many fuzzies, and splinters too easily. I think I must have turned 10 of them before I got on which was remotely acceptable. Given that I will need about a hundred of these, I do not fancy trying to turn 1000 toothpicks to get what I need. I'll see if your idea works, otherwise i'll go with my beads. 
 
Since you asked for an update, here it is. But first, let me show off a little addition to the household: 
 

 
I love it when the postman brings me something other than bills! Particularly exciting when it is big, heavy, and comes from the USA! What's inside? 
 

 
Why, it's a BYRNES TABLE SAW!!! So shiny, i'm in love! 
 
The purchasing process went by without a hitch, except for the website going down when I tried to place the order. I rang them the next day and spoke to Donna. She was really apologetic. Order placed, money sent, saw is mine! 
 

 
The second layer planking has almost reached the keel. Why so slow? 
 

 
This is because I have cheaped out and i'm using the kit supplied second planking material for all planking below the waterline, which will be painted white. This meant splicing the kit strips with the pear strips I bought from Hobbymill. I should be able to reach the keel sometime this week. After that, lots and lots of sanding. Then I will line off the gunports and start the second planking upwards. 

A little more progress - got the lower gallery roofs planked. The tricky part was the angled planks between the lower tower & the side of the ship. The area is the circled area on the picture of the real ship.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Hello,
in addition to the breeching ropes for carronades I am also working on the breeching ropes for the 18 pounder guns.
A small detail for the height adjustment of the gun barrels had to be done. The straps of the wood blocks had to be installed.
In the background is the breeching rope already seen.

Hello,
here is the continuation of the building report:
 
The breeching rope is attached to the bulwark with strong staples.
Here I show you the making of these staples made of brass wire with a diameter of 1 mm.

 
The staples outboard be screwed with square nuts, as shown in the following picture.

Hi all,
 
it's been a while, but the festive season kept my quite busy and there was Little time to relax in the Workshop.
Just a quick update.
The inner gunportframes are all in, the two halfes have been joined together and I have loosely fitted the gundeck base.
Next step is to install the final gunportframes.
best
Tom

Another little update-
After filing down the towers I planked over them to make them look a little better & then painted them. After gluing them in place I planked over the upper roof formers & painted them. The butts in the roof & tower planking will be covered by the figures from the kit. Even after shimming the lower galleries out the lower rear towers still just barely fit.
 
/Mark
 

 

 
 

I finally finished the standing rigging. It took me more time than I expected, but I'm satisfied with the result. Now, going into the next phase of construction - hanging blocks on the yards.

ok......still deciding whether or not to keep it natural, aside from the stern galleries...........
   lucked out on the inner bulwarks....everything fit reasonably well, aside from the fact i had to raise the quarter deck clamp near the stern too accommodate the slightly higher galleries
  used four pieces of thin laminated pearwood to make the cove
oh....i made a scraper for the double cove out of a xacto blade...for the 1/16th square strips....but....on the roof of the quarter galleries, i think i will sand them down and re-scrape the shape......cause i think they're too deep in contrast with the etched brass....
    i may try to apply some ca with a pin or whatever to the small flat ornaments and try to give them some dimension, or find some other way.......will see what happens.....cheers...

Thank you.I always try to have the stem and keel joined together before fitting.This joint can then be clamped to a flat board.I clamp something straight to the keel  and stempost when gluing in position.Generally anything long enough I have laying around,this can be as simple as a long metal ruler edge on,or even a spirit level if the keel is large enough to warrant it(no use for the bubble,just for it's straight properties).When the glue is fully dry,I then pin with brass or copper wire and epoxy glue.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Very useful tip, Nigel, I'll use it for my Brick de 24, too!Thx
Fam

Hi Kurt
 
I typically rework the kit if the stempost keel and sternpost are part of the false keel.I fit the stem and keel after first planking and fairing.I leave the sternpost until after the second planking.This allows you to lay the second planking overlength and trim everything in one go,making it easier to get a nice tight join to the sternpost.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you.I always try to have the stem and keel joined together before fitting.This joint can then be clamped to a flat board.I clamp something straight to the keel  and stempost when gluing in position.Generally anything long enough I have laying around,this can be as simple as a long metal ruler edge on,or even a spirit level if the keel is large enough to warrant it(no use for the bubble,just for it's straight properties).When the glue is fully dry,I then pin with brass or copper wire and epoxy glue.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Kurt
 
I typically rework the kit if the stempost keel and sternpost are part of the false keel.I fit the stem and keel after first planking and fairing.I leave the sternpost until after the second planking.This allows you to lay the second planking overlength and trim everything in one go,making it easier to get a nice tight join to the sternpost.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Kurt
 
I typically rework the kit if the stempost keel and sternpost are part of the false keel.I fit the stem and keel after first planking and fairing.I leave the sternpost until after the second planking.This allows you to lay the second planking overlength and trim everything in one go,making it easier to get a nice tight join to the sternpost.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
Regards, Paul

Elia, Mark, Bob, Nigel, Druxey, Carl, Denis, Remco and Mark P, Thank you all for your kind remarks. And to all who used the like button.
 
the last couple of days have been busy with some household stuff and snow removal getting water etc.
 
I have also been beavering away at the water pump.
 
Attempt one ended like this
 

 
attempt two ended like this
 

 
attempt three "this was the turning point" (apologies to the Dinsdale brothers)
 

 
I used the body of the pump to spot the position of the first hole, and because the holes in the pump body were indexed I was then able to use the same index to drill the four holes in the crank case for tapping the 00x90 threads for the mounting screws. I still might make them bolts instead of screws.
 
As each hole was drilled I tapped it straight away. used lots of lubricant and backed the tap out several times for cleaning the swarf.
 

 
using the jewelers saw to cut the slot in the screw.
 

 
assembled on the crank case I now will be able to make the linkage to the eccentric in the backside of the 60T gear the piston in the pump is 1/8th diameter.
 

 
Close up pictures can be brutally honest, I need to set up and make some adjustment on the thickness of the heads of the screws which are 1/16 in diameter, the size of the 00x90 threads are .047" max diameter, the tap drill is a number 62 Drill.
 
The inlet and outlet threads on the water pump are 6x40.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

well progress has been slow but I think the upside down jig will work out good.
 

 
 
nothing is glued yet, I plan to get all the frames done and rough shaped before I cut the insides of the frame and begin gluing things up.