NMBROOK

Thank you kind people for the comments!

Time for a Little update, Considering all the time i have until i start my new job i haven't got much done, being my first scratch build everything is a bit off here and there and some problems that needed fixing and thinking through but i think once i get to the planking everything will atleast LOOK much cleaner.

Having some problems with the stern making everything accurate, same with the gun ports(there is a problem in the centre hull which can be seen in one of the last pictures, this has been fixed). I think i've finally got the stern sorted so far. Heres the first terrible attempt.


And heres the second attempt, Thank you nigel for the glueing the plans on the wood tip, so much more helpful. covered each side with some thin pear glued to some scrap from my sovereign just to make things easier getting sizes right, although this will only be seen where the windows will be.

This attempt has made things a bit easier again getting the angles and making sure the 'stern frames' stay in their correct places.

Here are a few other pictures.
Pear deck has been covered with Teak oil as seen from another build of the belle poule which i greatly admire. This will be done with all pear on the ship.

Ok, hope it will go smoothly!
 
/Matti

Excellent work on the cabinet mate   I look forward to seeing what you tackle next.I am not around much of late,very busy sorting things ready for our move at Easter.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent work Michael The dummy carriage sections make a big difference.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Finally all the frames are added, not perfect but its done. Ready for the beams and stern to be added, not sure how to go about making the stern yet as i will make it out of something harder than lime.


(for some reason these images are never uploaded in high quality)

Next time on POB La Belle Poule!
Beams added
Small deck added
Starting LED wiring!

Hi PB
You build is looking good.I find Pritstik to work well gluing the patterns on.They peel off later and any residue can be removed with a damp cloth.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

WOW Chris!!!!I had got my head around no more kits for me,then you post this   This would have to be the one exception!!!No rush though many thousands of hours ahead with my current projects,plus a break due to my workshop going into storage whilst I am currently relocating  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

WOW Chris!!!!I had got my head around no more kits for me,then you post this   This would have to be the one exception!!!No rush though many thousands of hours ahead with my current projects,plus a break due to my workshop going into storage whilst I am currently relocating  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

It's been a while.
 
I was working on Victory, but then I was sent my new designs for the Prince in laser cut and PE parts, so I figuered I'd build up the prince hull first, so that I can courier the hull over to Amati. They will then get a very good carver to make all new carvings for the model, have them cast, and then send me back the hull and loose catings. I can then continue, and finally finish the Prince!
 
When the prince is with Amati, I shall complete the Victory drawings/plans/instructions, which should be no later than Summer.
 
I know Amati are keen to finalise both Prince and Victory, and I am hoping Victory will be ready for release either late this year or very early next.
 
I have attached a couple of pics of Prince in progress. I have just completed the first planking. I re-done the designs to include three more main bulkheads, (almost) full length decks from lover gun deck upwards, and the new gun port designs that are now intergeral to the hull, rather than the 1mm ply gun port patterns of the old design.

I,like Matti prefer a brush.The biggest issue with wood,especially basswood,is that the first coat lifts the grain.I tend to apply lots of thin coats by brush with plenty of flatting back every couple of coats.You are gaining very little tooling up with an airbrush as any imperfections are sanded away anyway.However I do spray everything with clear polyurethane afterwards.
Painting areas that will be hard to reach as you go is highly recommended.
As Matti says though,there is no right and wrong,we just find a method that works best for us.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Lawrence It is far too long since any sawdust has been made on this build and the current renewed interest is only increasing my desire to resume work on her shortly.I do,however want to get to a stage where I can put Mordaunt to one side for a little while,which means getting some more structure into the upper hull to prevent any warping.I have however been amassing lots of pear offcuts for the carvings on Sovereign
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello shipmates,I thank you all for visiting my build log and also for your likes. A little  progress to my build.
 
Cheers
Dimitris

Hello MSW Great stuff this build log . What I would like to see is an aftermarket upgrade - or let us say a "downgrade" - for the Victory to build her in an older configuration before 1800 with the balconies on the stern and so on as seen on some pictures. just an idea regards ludger

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Thanks for the suggestion, Nigel. I saw Dr. Mike use that technique. As a MD myself, I have a near limitless supply of hypodermic needles In fact, I appropriated some from work to try. I have a selection of 18G (the largest), 2G, 22G, and 25G. I think i'll start at 22G (blue needles) and work from there. I am not sure if I have enough pear to waste on making treenails. I would rather use a cheaper wood species if possible. 

Hi Greg, I do have some fancy toothpicks which I picked up from a thrift store. It did not occur to me to stiffen them with 50/50 PVA prior to turning - thanks for that idea. My efforts at turning toothpicks thus far have been extremely disappointing. The wood does not hold a sharp edge, has too many fuzzies, and splinters too easily. I think I must have turned 10 of them before I got on which was remotely acceptable. Given that I will need about a hundred of these, I do not fancy trying to turn 1000 toothpicks to get what I need. I'll see if your idea works, otherwise i'll go with my beads. 
 
Since you asked for an update, here it is. But first, let me show off a little addition to the household: 
 

 
I love it when the postman brings me something other than bills! Particularly exciting when it is big, heavy, and comes from the USA! What's inside? 
 

 
Why, it's a BYRNES TABLE SAW!!! So shiny, i'm in love! 
 
The purchasing process went by without a hitch, except for the website going down when I tried to place the order. I rang them the next day and spoke to Donna. She was really apologetic. Order placed, money sent, saw is mine! 
 

 
The second layer planking has almost reached the keel. Why so slow? 
 

 
This is because I have cheaped out and i'm using the kit supplied second planking material for all planking below the waterline, which will be painted white. This meant splicing the kit strips with the pear strips I bought from Hobbymill. I should be able to reach the keel sometime this week. After that, lots and lots of sanding. Then I will line off the gunports and start the second planking upwards. 

A little more progress - got the lower gallery roofs planked. The tricky part was the angled planks between the lower tower & the side of the ship. The area is the circled area on the picture of the real ship.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Hello,
in addition to the breeching ropes for carronades I am also working on the breeching ropes for the 18 pounder guns.
A small detail for the height adjustment of the gun barrels had to be done. The straps of the wood blocks had to be installed.
In the background is the breeching rope already seen.

Hello,
here is the continuation of the building report:
 
The breeching rope is attached to the bulwark with strong staples.
Here I show you the making of these staples made of brass wire with a diameter of 1 mm.

 
The staples outboard be screwed with square nuts, as shown in the following picture.

Hi all,
 
it's been a while, but the festive season kept my quite busy and there was Little time to relax in the Workshop.
Just a quick update.
The inner gunportframes are all in, the two halfes have been joined together and I have loosely fitted the gundeck base.
Next step is to install the final gunportframes.
best
Tom

Another little update-
After filing down the towers I planked over them to make them look a little better & then painted them. After gluing them in place I planked over the upper roof formers & painted them. The butts in the roof & tower planking will be covered by the figures from the kit. Even after shimming the lower galleries out the lower rear towers still just barely fit.
 
/Mark
 

 

 
 

I finally finished the standing rigging. It took me more time than I expected, but I'm satisfied with the result. Now, going into the next phase of construction - hanging blocks on the yards.

ok......still deciding whether or not to keep it natural, aside from the stern galleries...........
   lucked out on the inner bulwarks....everything fit reasonably well, aside from the fact i had to raise the quarter deck clamp near the stern too accommodate the slightly higher galleries
  used four pieces of thin laminated pearwood to make the cove
oh....i made a scraper for the double cove out of a xacto blade...for the 1/16th square strips....but....on the roof of the quarter galleries, i think i will sand them down and re-scrape the shape......cause i think they're too deep in contrast with the etched brass....
    i may try to apply some ca with a pin or whatever to the small flat ornaments and try to give them some dimension, or find some other way.......will see what happens.....cheers...

Thank you.I always try to have the stem and keel joined together before fitting.This joint can then be clamped to a flat board.I clamp something straight to the keel  and stempost when gluing in position.Generally anything long enough I have laying around,this can be as simple as a long metal ruler edge on,or even a spirit level if the keel is large enough to warrant it(no use for the bubble,just for it's straight properties).When the glue is fully dry,I then pin with brass or copper wire and epoxy glue.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel