NMBROOK

Another photos...
 

 

 

Hello, some pictures of the magazine Naiad and the figurehead, the whole is yet to be finished and secure.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

thanks for your comments ... here are some other photos...
 

 
 

 

 
 

 
 

here are some photos of the naiad in construction...
 

 
 
http://i.imgbox.com/adbOFtmU.jpg
 
 

 
 

 

Well heres a final post of the planking in process, will not bother to post anymore until first planking is complete as theres not likely much else to really share.  I'm deviating from the plans a little in the suggestion on planking, they indicate to start at the very top of the frames (I think), I've decided to lay a plank aligning with the main deck and then work up.  This is hopefully to ensure a consistent height of the gun ports to the deck, as the top of the bulkheads does not seem to rise slightly toward the stern.  The top edge of this plank was marked with a pen so hopefully will show up once all sanded, although it shouldn't be too hard to figure it out.
 
Anyway, here's wishing everyone the best of the season.  Merry Christmas everyone!
 

 
Continuing planking upwards, starting to take shape...
 

 
Cut out some sections in the balsa where the hawse holes will be, hopefully this will allow the holes to be open on the rear face rather going into balsa.  Not sure exactly how this will work but it can't really introduce any fresh problems.
 

 
Also wanted to call out a tool that I've quite taken to, although I think it did appear on the 'list of most useless tools' on MSW 1.0. I bought this when I started my 'Snake' and never really used it.  However, I've found that this can really help give a better curve on the planks, otherwise with simple soaking and even with bulkheads appropriately fared, the planks tend to flatten in between the bulkheads as they are so far apart on this kit.  Using this tool, which simply crimps the plank its possible to get a much better curve with a dry plank.  This is proving especially helpful to get a nicer curve at the bow (In some places I think I had been a bit zealous with shaping the balsa a removed a little too much and had some flatter surfaces than I would have liked.  
 

 
 
 

Hello,
many thanks for the nice comments.
Lately, here are little progress has been made.
Here are just two pictures of the model.

 


I want to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Hello,
 
this week I didn't work at the canons as I should, but made the gratings for the upper gun deck and quarter deck. When building the deck beams for the upper gun deck, I recognized that the grating have a light taper. The whole time I thought about it and then I started to solve that problem. The result are tapered gratings, but is war a long way.
 

 
The problem is to saw at a light angle and for that I build a little help where I could change the angle and then saw the wood block in form of the grating. I'm sorry when this sound a little complicated, but in this case it's my english. I hope that the pictures will explain, where I have no words for
 

 

 
I could adjust this steel, that looks approximately 1 mm over the surface, with the screws or at the top with paper at the left or right side of the steel. Then it is only testing with cheaper wood. When the right angle was found, than I took the boxwood block. The clamp is a stop, that I wouldn't saw in the screws.
 

 

 
After that, I cut the spaces at a right angle between the bars, but not all the way through so that they would not fall apart. But that with my normal help for space. The next thing was to glue in the bars and make the repairs.
 

 

 

 
I gave them a coat of lacquer for better gluing the parts together. The next thing was then only to grind the backside of and ready they are.
 

 
Best regards,
Siggi

The captain, the shipwright (me, I'm at the iconograph and not at the picture) and the crew wish you all a
 
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 2015
 
Meanwhile I'm ready with all these small items for the gun deck and start now with the hanging knees for the upper gun deck and installing the deck beams.
 
Siggi

Hello,
 
so, the cannons are ready. Very handy in this case is my dock. I could lay the Dragon at here side
 

 

 

 
Thank you Gary for the efforts to look for the rope dimension. Next thing would be, to build all the staff used around the cannons, like buckets, rammers.. ect.
 
The captain was very pleased with the work and I hope he will spend a drink this evening
 
Regards,
Siggi

Gorgeous looking grating Nigel - that is particularly well done. Very impressive!

I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Dang that's impressive Bud.. 
 
Roll on the Caroline's Guns ! Can't wait to see wot magic you'll do there.
 
Eamonn

I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As Sjors said...WOW.  I think your in the running for the words best model grating.  Just amazing detail!

Thank you Nigel,
I saw on the web, related to oar-lengths that there is a factor in relation to the boats beam at that place, That makes sense, especialy when the oarsman sits opposite to the rowlock.
 
Also many thanks for the kind greetings, which I return with many regards
 
Nils

I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Richard I am glad you and others find my logs helpful,that is the main reason I post.I remember the days before the net and when Keith Julier's  books were in their infancy,you were very much on your own and it was a struggle.Now things are very different,everyone is free to share knowledge and it is fantastic.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a heads up for anyone interested.Whilst I rarely buy this magazine anymore,I did purchase this December's issue.It has coverage of 2014's Naviga championship held in Bulgaria.It features photos of the C1 winner,HMS Leopard by a Ukranian modeller that I have yet to see on the net.Also shown is HMS Alert by Roland Vlahovic,a gold medal winning model depicting the vessel during construction.Also shown is a model familiar to many,is Dimitry Shevelev's fine french '74'.This,again,won a gold medal in class C3d with a 98.33/100 score!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great work Nils and fabulous attention to detail with the different oar lengths
 
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family
 
Nigel

Here are five of the seven total stern timbers cut out. These are the center five. The two most outboard timbers are shorter. These five are supposed to be 7/32" thick so I had to laminate two 1/8" pieces per timber. They need their final thickness sanding, notched for the deck beams and then they get their final dimensions and get installed.
 
Please please please please, feel free to jump in with comments if something doesn't look right.

Thanks for the likes and encouragement! It really helps. There are pictures tonight! Woohooooo!!!!
 
I took a picture of an early Christmas gift. The Proxxon table circular saw will be incredibly useful in getting those perfectly cut pieces of wood (ie. planking)
 
The other pictures are of the three stern timbers I have mounted so far. They may not look like much but I'm incredibly proud of designing my own pieces and fitting them onto my ship like they were perfectly cut puzzle pieces. My measurements are lining up well and things are falling (snugly) into place.
 
Tonight's post is brought to you by Led Zeppelin and Kenny Loggins.

Fantastic work Nigel. Your attention to detail is as good as it gets.
 
Bob