NMBROOK

Und beenden.

Thanks so much Nigel. Glad to have you back visiting, and I've been missing progress on your great builds.
 
Bob

Hi Michael
 
You continue to amaze me with the continuing addition of details I honestly didn't believe you could find anything else to add.Excellent work,I wouldn't fancy retrofitting this detail after the main construction.I concur that although only a 'segment' of the actual carriage,they add a great deal visually.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much Tom
It was bugging me so I have spent a good hour finding a video Alexey Domanoff posted on making nails.I actually found it on the Domanoff workshop's website.Here is the link
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3315-making-small-nails-with-round-head/?p=91910
 
I hope this helps and is surely better than me trying to put it in words.This is the technique I use.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for your nice comments, likes and just looking in- still and always much appreciated.
 
Continuing with the cannon door assemblies and dummy cannon installations it struck me that I really wanted to also add upper and lower “carriages” look.
 
I looked at the positioned (but not yet fixed into place) first door, and its cannon - wanted to do something about the missing carriages (pic 3).
 
So now I needed to simulate these bits.
 
I played around with some ideas (pic 4), the first two carriages, left to right, did not drop down enough into the dummy opening (pic 5).
 
 Added a longer leading edge vertical strip, looked better (pics 6 & 7)
 
-------------------------
 
I was going to use the Proxxon MF70 and cut a groove into a long piece of timber, but I still would have had the leading edge visual problem, and I imagined that if I tried cutting tiny little slivers of “U” shaped wood, I would loose most to breakage. My fear of the unknown J
 
So the pics were my solution. Made also sure that the wood framings were of the same diameter as the weather deck installs (pic 9)
 
I’m comfortable with this. These will get “lost” when one looks at the finished ship, but for me it adds a level of detail to the dummy openings that seem to work. Labor intensive, for sure. Each dummy has 5 pieces X 50 Hmmm that’s another 250 questionable parts added to this kit. Having fun-no rush on my part…
 
PS: You might note pics 2,5 & 8 (carriage bit in place) the very tip of the pull open rope for the door is a bit darker colored. That is GS Hypo at work. Thumb and forefingers bit of glue makes the rope tips hard and straight- so easy to push into its hole after positioning the doors. Here I actually thought ahead, must be some foresight going on (;-)
 
Regards,
 
Michael

A week of working on deadeyes and chains  leaves you a little cross-eyed and shaky, so please forgive any typing errors that may occur. In any event, the fore channel deadeyes and chains are done.
 
As on the bowsprit, the deadeyes are from Model Expo. The lower portion of the chains are the PE brass parts from the kit and the middle links are bent from wire around a simple 2 nail jig. I also added preventer eyebolts, shown in AOTS, between the chains. After looking at the pictures that I took, I realized that some of the chains needed some adjustment, which I made, but didn't take any further pictures (I probably should have).
 
Now it's on to the main channels.
 
Bob

Deadeyes and chains on the main channels are now done. As should be expected, the work went quicker and easier on the main than the fore. Practice may not make perfect, but it certainly helps. Really nothing new to show here, but I've included a photo of how I set the angle for the chains by using a piece of line tied around the mast head.
 
I had thought that the tedium of doing these would lead me to take a break and do something else, but I've gotten in a rhythm and will finish up the mizzen chains next.
 
Bob

Happily, I 've completed one of those tedious tasks that I never enjoy very much. With the completion of the mizzen deadeyes and chains, that work is done. The mizzen work duplicated the work on the fore and main and needs no further description.
 
For those looking at the full profile photo attached to this post, there is an addition that may or may not become permanent. I've been thinking about what to do about a boat or boats. While contemplating whether to try (likely unsuccessfully) to duplicate the wonderful efforts of B.E., Grant and others to make framed and planked boats, I discovered that I had a partially built boat made from lifts. To my surprise, this boat ,with some small changes , virtually matched the dimensions and shape of the 28' longboat shown in AOTS Essex. I'm going to do some more work on it to see if it will produce a result that  I'll be happy  with. Stay tuned. 
 
Bob
 

Thanks so much Tim and the "likes".
 
Tim, I am the lowest of low tech. My "jig" is a pair of nails in a piece of wood. A piece of wire is bent around them and then cut at the overlap.
 
Bob

The longboat for the waist is done. As I mentioned previously, I decided to go with a long ago begun, but not finished or used, boat made from basswood lifts. With some modification, this boat closely matched the shape and dimensions of the 28' longboat shown in AOTS Essex. 
 
I began by reducing the length and height of the hull and completing it's shaping. Next, I added the keel, stem and sternpost made from boxwood strip. I then painted both the exterior and interior of the hull. Work then proceeded on the interior with the addition of boxwood frames, gunwales and clamps for the thwarts and holly floor planking. Bow and stern gratings made from kit material with boxwood framing were next. After that, i made the thwarts and sternsheet from boxwood and added them. I also added boxwood knees at the bow and stern.
 
Next, I added boxwood rubbing strips to the exterior, before returning to the interior to finish the detailing. This included the windlass, made from boxwood with wire mounts, boxwood bowsprit step and mast step, wire mast clamp and oarlocks made from boxwood and wire.
 
All in all, I'm pretty pleased with this boat and don't believe that I would have done better, or even as well, if I had done it as plank on frame. The only downside was that I had to paint it, rather than leaving it natural wood, but I  like the way it looks. I still have to add oars, add chocks and ringbolts to the skid beams and mount the boat with lashings.
 
Bob

The longboat installation is now complete. I first added boxwood chocks to the beams. I then made up and installed brass ringbolts on the beams. Next, I made up some oars from very small dowel and boxwood strip and placed them in the boat. You will probably notice that I only added 4 oars, which is certainly too few. It just seemed a shame to cover up all of the interior detail in the boat with a larger pile of oars.
 
After gluing the boat to the chocks, I made up 2 lashings through the ringbolts to hold the boat. I'm quite pleased with the way it looks in place and am now debating with myself whether to add a second boat of some kind from the stern davits, at some point in the future.
 
Work is now underway on the hammock cranes.
 
Bob

A quick update. The hammock cranes have been installed. This work went surprisingly quickly and easily. I used the kit photo etched brass parts which are nicely done. These were glued into holes drilled into the rails. Rather than using rigging line for the guidelines at the top of the cranes, I use wire to provide added strength and stability. After the wire was glued in place, the assembly is remarkably strong.
 
Now for the fun part  -- fitting and attaching the netting in the cranes.
 
Bob

The hammock netting has now been installed in the hammock cranes. The netting is the veil material from the kit. After cutting into oversize strips, I steamed it with an iron to remove the kinks and soften it. The strips were then glued to the crane bottoms and the wire at the top on each side, using medium viscosity CA. Final trimming was done using a small scissor and a razor blade.
 
With completion of this item, work on the hull is now finished for the time being. The remaining hull work ( head, lantern, anchors, stern boat ), will be done during, or at the completion of, the rigging. I am about to begin the standing rigging.
 
Bob
 
 

Hi Nigel,
 
good progress.
I'm still curious about this pin rolling business. Can you eplain how that works. I am not finding anything here in the Forums.
 
cheers
Tom 

I am currently decorating and between coats As the sun is shining,I thought I would take some pics of where the build is up to at the moment.No pics of the gratings yet as I will photograph these when I start building them up with their combings which will be in Ebony.
   I have fitted the deck clamps back to roughly amidships.They extend right up to the deck underside.This isn't historically correct,however it is my intention to cut a 3mm deep rebate to take the lodging knees.This creates a flat surface for the knees to abut to,rather than contending with the severe tumblehome at this point.When assembled,the finished appearance will be the same as if I had built it historically correct.The hooked scarph joints are clearly visible.Both these clamps and the scarphed spirketting will be fitted with copper fastenings 0.8mm diameter extending completely through the hull as it stands now.I am undecided as to whether to represent bolt heads on the deck clamp fixings to illustrate proud bolt heads.
   Work is progressing at a slow but steady pace on the deck plank fastenings.I have fitted two staggered fixings per main beam and one central for each ledge.The hatch openings have been roughly cut to size.Final finishing will be done when the hatches are made up.The area in front of the main hatch has further planking to be added for the flat capstan base.I got carried away drilling holes,I could have left this section  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Bill
I would only like to echo what everyone else has said,truly splendid work.I too have picked the Sovereign as the very steep learning curve into the world of carving and I don't think that without someone like yourself as inspiration,I would of tackled it.I have managed to obtain a copy of Busmann's book and must say I must of been mad to contemplate this project without it.I shall try my hardest to do this fine ship justice,but you have set the bar so very high.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi mate
Your letter to Santa looks very similar to mine
I had never had much success with stains although others swear by them.I personally prefer just to use a wood of the correct colour.I once tried staining some dowel and wasn't happy with the result.Seems the best wood for masts in kits isn't the best for taking a stain
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Nigel.. I think david is going to paint instead 
 
Spy, I'll sign you up for 'Pegs Pins & Clamps' then ..      We connoisseurs can NEVER have enough Clamps..   
 
E
 
BTW    I've begun the guns..    (think that sentence makes sense anyhoo.. Begun The Guns.. Yea It's Fine!)

Hi mate
Your letter to Santa looks very similar to mine
I had never had much success with stains although others swear by them.I personally prefer just to use a wood of the correct colour.I once tried staining some dowel and wasn't happy with the result.Seems the best wood for masts in kits isn't the best for taking a stain
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Small progress, I've at least committed to the approach I'll take on the deck planking.  Nothing too exciting, but I will install a margin plank which I haven't done before,even though this will barely (if at all) be seen.  I've decided to try planking off the ship to make this a little easier.  Worst case, it will be good practice for the quarterdeck and forecastle, but I do hope to leave the option open to leave some of the fo'csle gratings off so a little more can be seen.  I've used the placement of the deck beams per AOTS to determine where the planks terminate.  The margin plank curve was estimated from laying a plank along the interior bulwark and tracing the shape on the false deck. 
 
Still early days, but no major hiccups yet...
 

Nice hear from you John
 
Mobbsie - cheers mate, though I think you're being a bit generous with the praise 
 
Well, bit of a milestone, the upper deck is finally completed and glued into position.  Next step will be the interior bulwarks, will require some tweaking as a few test planks indicate that the bulwarks (even after shaping) still will be a bit wavy, I'll probably just add some thin scrap strips to the these to build them up, but more on that when its done.
 
The instructions make no mention of some deck former beams that need to go on before the upper deck, the only reference is on the side plan - I nearly missed them.  When in position there is clearly a problem because the beams will interfere with the open companions, once again the plans clearly show this issue.  Simple to cut out the center section without any real structural implications, the ones remaining will be hidden by gratings.  You can also see in the picture that I glued some thin beech off cuts where the two halves will join to provide some surface to mate the deck surfaces smoothly.  Deck was glued in multiple stages, first half deck glued to center line, section half deck glued to center and mated, and then glued down to the bulkheads to give correct camber.
 

 
Final result....completing the decking off the ship seems to have worked out just fine.
 


 
Size comparison to Snake which is still laid up....Jason will be a big boy!
 

 
 
 
 
 

Planking has started, this will be a lengthy process....
 
I started at the keel to get going, will move up to the upper section and work down in due course.  Even though I had shaped the bulkheads, I'm trying to fine tune as I go as it isn't until a few planks start going on that emphasize deviations, and the hull lines becomes much clearer to me as the surface grows.   
 

Cheers Eamonn, Jim, BE, Stergios and the 'likes' for the interest and kind words.  I tried to superimpose 'Ballyhoo' on 'Jason' but couldn't figure out how to do it.
 
Sjors - don't worry, there will be guns on this deck (eventually).  But I believe the deck is more commonly referred to as the upper deck on a frigate (even though it has one above it...and also has guns!), although I do seem to recall seeing reference to a gun deck as well somewhere.  Maybe someone else can speak definitively on this.
 
Alistair - it did work out OK.  I split the false deck down the center line first (the grain introduces a little error here), and then taped them back together on the back side.  The 2 innermost planks were glued in place on each half and then separated so that I knew they would marry up properly during final assembly.  An unexpected issue was that the deck did tend to cup a little, probably a combination of humidity changes here as well as the glue under the planks shrinking a little.  It was easily manageable, but you can see a slightly larger gap at the extreme ends where there weren't any bulkheads under the deck to force the camber.  As for treenails, I don't feel any compulsion to do them, but, I will have plenty of time to change my mind.
 
Have managed to install the interior bulwarks this weekend, small 0.5mm slivers of scrap were used to build up some of the worst offending bulkheads to remove major waviness.  These haven't been sanded yet but overall pretty pleased, any remaining small waviness should be pretty easy to sand out.  The bow section seems to have come out OK with extending the planking past bulkhead 5.  Most miraculously, the bulwarks do seem to follow the line of the margin planks, so a big 'phew' there.  Although not entirely symetrical, this will not be seen once the foc'sle is on    Also cut slots for the skid beams as it seems to be a lot easier to do now, these aren't mentioned until page 9 of the instructions.
 
Now the interior bulwarks rare in place, the rest of the bulkheads can be faired as the extensions are much too thin and delicate to be able to shape without additional support.
 

Cheers Joe, Mike, Sjors, Mobbsie and the 'likes'.
 
Planking is going slowly, but actually quite pleasantly.  On Snake, I used a combination of CA and PVA glue to secure planks, but wanted to just use PVA this time around.  The kit supplies 6mmx1.5mm linewood planks which are pretty easy to work with but you really have to find the right lie of the plank to avoid excessive edge bending, meaning quite a few stealers.
 
I have reached a bit of analysis paralysis at the stern so would appreciate any 'tips and tricks' anyone can share.  The round stern is presenting me some challenges trying to figure out the appropriate shape, although I've tried to use some filler to get a better idea of the shape and provide a good base for glue.  Main question:  does it look like I've shaped this enough yet?  I think I've got a good idea of the lay of the planks but the planking termination at the stern post and rearmost bulkhead is difficult to envisage - I've looked at multiple build logs for clues and photos all look great....'completed'.
 
In photos below you can also see the the boxwood section that I'll be using above the waterline (not glued yet) and also some balsa transom terminations to avoid having planks float in thin air.  I'm not comfortable fixing the transom shapers (parts 26 & 27) until I can get a better sense for positioning with a planked hull and the stern fascia. I can see why the stern of this ship causes so many challenges. (The uppermost plank looks very awkward in this picture for some reason...)
 
Lower photo shows a copy from the AOTS book enlarged to 1:64 scale that was used to get a sense for where the various bulkheads align with respect to the actual framing.  Mainly this was used to determine how the planking needs to terminate on the rearmost bulkhead, shape of the keel former in red pen and also shows section replaced with boxwood.