NMBROOK

Thanks Nigel.. I think david is going to paint instead 
 
Spy, I'll sign you up for 'Pegs Pins & Clamps' then ..      We connoisseurs can NEVER have enough Clamps..   
 
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BTW    I've begun the guns..    (think that sentence makes sense anyhoo.. Begun The Guns.. Yea It's Fine!)

Hi mate
Your letter to Santa looks very similar to mine
I had never had much success with stains although others swear by them.I personally prefer just to use a wood of the correct colour.I once tried staining some dowel and wasn't happy with the result.Seems the best wood for masts in kits isn't the best for taking a stain
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Small progress, I've at least committed to the approach I'll take on the deck planking.  Nothing too exciting, but I will install a margin plank which I haven't done before,even though this will barely (if at all) be seen.  I've decided to try planking off the ship to make this a little easier.  Worst case, it will be good practice for the quarterdeck and forecastle, but I do hope to leave the option open to leave some of the fo'csle gratings off so a little more can be seen.  I've used the placement of the deck beams per AOTS to determine where the planks terminate.  The margin plank curve was estimated from laying a plank along the interior bulwark and tracing the shape on the false deck. 
 
Still early days, but no major hiccups yet...
 

Nice hear from you John
 
Mobbsie - cheers mate, though I think you're being a bit generous with the praise 
 
Well, bit of a milestone, the upper deck is finally completed and glued into position.  Next step will be the interior bulwarks, will require some tweaking as a few test planks indicate that the bulwarks (even after shaping) still will be a bit wavy, I'll probably just add some thin scrap strips to the these to build them up, but more on that when its done.
 
The instructions make no mention of some deck former beams that need to go on before the upper deck, the only reference is on the side plan - I nearly missed them.  When in position there is clearly a problem because the beams will interfere with the open companions, once again the plans clearly show this issue.  Simple to cut out the center section without any real structural implications, the ones remaining will be hidden by gratings.  You can also see in the picture that I glued some thin beech off cuts where the two halves will join to provide some surface to mate the deck surfaces smoothly.  Deck was glued in multiple stages, first half deck glued to center line, section half deck glued to center and mated, and then glued down to the bulkheads to give correct camber.
 

 
Final result....completing the decking off the ship seems to have worked out just fine.
 


 
Size comparison to Snake which is still laid up....Jason will be a big boy!
 

 
 
 
 
 

Planking has started, this will be a lengthy process....
 
I started at the keel to get going, will move up to the upper section and work down in due course.  Even though I had shaped the bulkheads, I'm trying to fine tune as I go as it isn't until a few planks start going on that emphasize deviations, and the hull lines becomes much clearer to me as the surface grows.   
 

Cheers Eamonn, Jim, BE, Stergios and the 'likes' for the interest and kind words.  I tried to superimpose 'Ballyhoo' on 'Jason' but couldn't figure out how to do it.
 
Sjors - don't worry, there will be guns on this deck (eventually).  But I believe the deck is more commonly referred to as the upper deck on a frigate (even though it has one above it...and also has guns!), although I do seem to recall seeing reference to a gun deck as well somewhere.  Maybe someone else can speak definitively on this.
 
Alistair - it did work out OK.  I split the false deck down the center line first (the grain introduces a little error here), and then taped them back together on the back side.  The 2 innermost planks were glued in place on each half and then separated so that I knew they would marry up properly during final assembly.  An unexpected issue was that the deck did tend to cup a little, probably a combination of humidity changes here as well as the glue under the planks shrinking a little.  It was easily manageable, but you can see a slightly larger gap at the extreme ends where there weren't any bulkheads under the deck to force the camber.  As for treenails, I don't feel any compulsion to do them, but, I will have plenty of time to change my mind.
 
Have managed to install the interior bulwarks this weekend, small 0.5mm slivers of scrap were used to build up some of the worst offending bulkheads to remove major waviness.  These haven't been sanded yet but overall pretty pleased, any remaining small waviness should be pretty easy to sand out.  The bow section seems to have come out OK with extending the planking past bulkhead 5.  Most miraculously, the bulwarks do seem to follow the line of the margin planks, so a big 'phew' there.  Although not entirely symetrical, this will not be seen once the foc'sle is on    Also cut slots for the skid beams as it seems to be a lot easier to do now, these aren't mentioned until page 9 of the instructions.
 
Now the interior bulwarks rare in place, the rest of the bulkheads can be faired as the extensions are much too thin and delicate to be able to shape without additional support.
 

Cheers Joe, Mike, Sjors, Mobbsie and the 'likes'.
 
Planking is going slowly, but actually quite pleasantly.  On Snake, I used a combination of CA and PVA glue to secure planks, but wanted to just use PVA this time around.  The kit supplies 6mmx1.5mm linewood planks which are pretty easy to work with but you really have to find the right lie of the plank to avoid excessive edge bending, meaning quite a few stealers.
 
I have reached a bit of analysis paralysis at the stern so would appreciate any 'tips and tricks' anyone can share.  The round stern is presenting me some challenges trying to figure out the appropriate shape, although I've tried to use some filler to get a better idea of the shape and provide a good base for glue.  Main question:  does it look like I've shaped this enough yet?  I think I've got a good idea of the lay of the planks but the planking termination at the stern post and rearmost bulkhead is difficult to envisage - I've looked at multiple build logs for clues and photos all look great....'completed'.
 
In photos below you can also see the the boxwood section that I'll be using above the waterline (not glued yet) and also some balsa transom terminations to avoid having planks float in thin air.  I'm not comfortable fixing the transom shapers (parts 26 & 27) until I can get a better sense for positioning with a planked hull and the stern fascia. I can see why the stern of this ship causes so many challenges. (The uppermost plank looks very awkward in this picture for some reason...)
 
Lower photo shows a copy from the AOTS book enlarged to 1:64 scale that was used to get a sense for where the various bulkheads align with respect to the actual framing.  Mainly this was used to determine how the planking needs to terminate on the rearmost bulkhead, shape of the keel former in red pen and also shows section replaced with boxwood.
 

All the ends are secured with diluted PVA glue to the stay. It is very important that the "skeleton" from thread must contain an odd number. Then just drag out another thread throughout the "skeleton", alternately one under, one above thread. It is little difficult and time-consuming work.
The stays (and their accessories) is ready and installed on the model.

I think I bagged it....   Fiddly work at best.  I made some templates, changed them, cut some wood, fed the scrap box  Then I got what I wanted.   Since this is hidden by quarter galleries, I'll fair it in and tweak as needed before planking. The interior will need minimal as some is hidden by the clamps, deck beams and deck.   The interior will get planked and probably some trim around the doorways with some nice doors. 
 
It would appear that the French played the "misdirection" game as well as the Brits.  On the Brits Roebuck class, there's two rows of stern windows so that when seen by ship coming from astern it would appear bigger than it is.   On Licorne,  the top of the stern windows are also the beam for the quarterdeck.  From inside, the bottom of the lights are about chest high.  It gives the appearance when coming astern that the ship is taller than she really is and from a distance it could be mistaken for an 18 pdr frigate (my conjuncture).  I think the galleries were designed with the same "look" in mind.
 
Here's some more pics of her rear, and I'm off to the next bit which will either be setting up the deadlights or shaping the taffrail.. 
 

Cheers mate! Things like understanding how the tackle ropes runs are difficult to get for me. But it's also part of the fun.
 
/Matti

Fabulous work mate!!!!The rigging is in perfect harmony with the rest of your build
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous work mate!!!!The rigging is in perfect harmony with the rest of your build
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi everyone! There's a lot on my plate at the moment, so I haven't had time to be as active as I'd like lately.
 
I have finished the skankläder (war cloth?) for the tops. I then started with the tackles. I was surprised how much work they where. First I reshaped all the block to make them more like the real ones. Then I drilled the holes slightly bigger to fit the ropes I wanted. After that I made the hooks connecting them to the channels before putting the tackles in place.
 
 
/Matti
 

 

 

 

Nigel,
 
Great thread, Nice links to the Russian site. Dr Mike is well, amazing.
 
So many amazing builders, one of whom (along with other champions) has a build log here at MSW-- Scratch build section -Alexandru HMS Victory, beyond astonishing. I'm sure that most of your reading this thread are familiar with his work/art.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

I received my copy of the DVD today after a short wait for it to come from the USA.In a nutshell and Australian film crew spent 8 weeks filming with Dr Mike in his workshop.Michael Bezverhny is a Russian master modelmaker who at the time this DVD was produced,was the only modeler to ever score a perfect 500/500  in the world shipmodeling championships.He is actually a fully qualified heart surgeon who earns more money building ships to commission.I only actually stumbled on this DVD by per chance when looking at Dr Mike's work on the internet.I do thank Brian C for confirming it was well worth the purchase as he already had a copy.This DVD is by no means a new release,but doesn't appear to have been mentioned here before.
The DVD is just over three hours long and rather than actually following the build of a specific model,Dr Mike demonstrates various techniques used throughout the build process,however is work in progress build 'Rivoli' is used many times to illustrate where the various techniques apply.
Don't expect a Steven Spielberg production as the editing is amateurish and a little disjointed in places,however the is nothing amateurish about the work being demonstrated.On the whole,any builder whatever there level of experience will learn something from this DVD.My only disappointment was that Dr Mike's hot melt adhesive technique for hull plating wasn't shown.
So if you fancy an insight into how IMHO one of the finest,if not the finest model shipbuilders in the world does it,this is well worth a look.
Details can be found at  www.modelshipbuildingsecrets.com
I am in no way affiliated with the production company involved,just a happy customer.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Marc
Here is the link to his Rivoli build on the Russian forum,and this one works It will give you an idea of the level in question.In Russia building model ships is a sport and the champions have almost the same 'fame' as say a footballer in the UK or a basketball player in the US.
Any modeler who makes his own nails from solid silver(for the colour) and then fits over 100 in each gunport lid is at the top of their game in my book.
http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic3439.html
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I am currently decorating and between coats As the sun is shining,I thought I would take some pics of where the build is up to at the moment.No pics of the gratings yet as I will photograph these when I start building them up with their combings which will be in Ebony.
   I have fitted the deck clamps back to roughly amidships.They extend right up to the deck underside.This isn't historically correct,however it is my intention to cut a 3mm deep rebate to take the lodging knees.This creates a flat surface for the knees to abut to,rather than contending with the severe tumblehome at this point.When assembled,the finished appearance will be the same as if I had built it historically correct.The hooked scarph joints are clearly visible.Both these clamps and the scarphed spirketting will be fitted with copper fastenings 0.8mm diameter extending completely through the hull as it stands now.I am undecided as to whether to represent bolt heads on the deck clamp fixings to illustrate proud bolt heads.
   Work is progressing at a slow but steady pace on the deck plank fastenings.I have fitted two staggered fixings per main beam and one central for each ledge.The hatch openings have been roughly cut to size.Final finishing will be done when the hatches are made up.The area in front of the main hatch has further planking to be added for the flat capstan base.I got carried away drilling holes,I could have left this section  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent fix Juergen I agree,for a part that will become invisible when complete,the amount of work required to replace the piece,just isn't worth it.The wales look great
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for the masking tape tip.
I will be using it on some practice strips to test my hand at  making the bolts using my current supplies.
If the test goes well, I will probably try my hand using the sizes you have outlined.
 
Richard

Thank you Mark however,no,I said completely through my hull as 'it stands'.The planking on the outside will cover the ends when it is fitted.I was meaning that these 'bolts' would offer some strength to the model and are not just there for cosmetic purposes,sorry perhaps I should have been clearer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looks good, Juergen. Just remember not to trim the aft end of the main wale until you have planked the lower counter! (Usually the lower counter is planked first.)

Just spent a couple of hours selecting the maple strips for the top deck , Finished up with 15 out of 78 which are a similiar shade and texture  hopefully this will be enough but still have a few second choise in reserve
 

 
I think i,ll leave the hatches etc untill after planking ,easier fitted !
 

 
The difference in color in planking on lower deck is very noticeable from certain angles ,not as much from others ,i just hope final fittings and rigging etc will hide it
 

 
 
Weather here is deteriating so mite get a couple of long days at the decking , looking forward to it after the cannon rigging !!!
 
 

I am currently decorating and between coats As the sun is shining,I thought I would take some pics of where the build is up to at the moment.No pics of the gratings yet as I will photograph these when I start building them up with their combings which will be in Ebony.
   I have fitted the deck clamps back to roughly amidships.They extend right up to the deck underside.This isn't historically correct,however it is my intention to cut a 3mm deep rebate to take the lodging knees.This creates a flat surface for the knees to abut to,rather than contending with the severe tumblehome at this point.When assembled,the finished appearance will be the same as if I had built it historically correct.The hooked scarph joints are clearly visible.Both these clamps and the scarphed spirketting will be fitted with copper fastenings 0.8mm diameter extending completely through the hull as it stands now.I am undecided as to whether to represent bolt heads on the deck clamp fixings to illustrate proud bolt heads.
   Work is progressing at a slow but steady pace on the deck plank fastenings.I have fitted two staggered fixings per main beam and one central for each ledge.The hatch openings have been roughly cut to size.Final finishing will be done when the hatches are made up.The area in front of the main hatch has further planking to be added for the flat capstan base.I got carried away drilling holes,I could have left this section  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Boyd
The one piece of advise I would offer,if you do decide to buy a table saw don't make the same mistake as me,save the extra and buy the Byrnes not the Proxxon FET like me.Whilst the saw itself is fine,the precision repeat-ability of cuts using the saw guide is questionable.Yes there are ways around it involving lots of faffing,but this is one component I am less than impressed with.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel