NMBROOK

After spending a few hours scouring the net,I have eventually found a supplier of super small drills.I have purchesed two 0.18mm drills for adding the grating nailing.These drills have double stepped down shanks enabling them to fit in the 3.2mm Proxxon collet.I am certain a chuck would have far too much 'run out' to drill these holes.I intend to use them solely in the miller.They are very expensive at around ten pounds each,but are carbide and hopefully will last for a large number of holes.I have ordered a reel of 0.15mm copper wire for the nails.For scale purists,this equates to 9mm full size,so isn't miles away.
If anyone is in the market for some mega small drills(yes they do smaller ones than these   )the website is
 
http://www.drill-service.co.uk/index.asp
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking great mate
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

And An Even Better Update.. With Photo's (Plural !!) This Time, Yup!  I Really Spoil You Eh ?  
 
Well the Masts & Bowsprit are shaped and dry fitted, it all went much much easier than anticipated, admittedly I anticipated disaster at every turn !!  Those Mini Lathe things are the absolute Business, though after my 'Finger -v- Channel Pin' fiasco from a couple of days ago I half expected my body to become totally wrapped around the spinning pre Masts   
BTW the reason the Masts/Bowsprit look so dark in the photos is simply because I cleaned them off with Turps prior to putting the Clear Matt on them.
As you can see there is quiet a Rake on the Masts, so I wanted them in place (even temporarily) to help with positioning the Chains.
 
My proper camera is still away so I'm still using the old compact I'm afraid (much less control over settings as you can see from the well dodgy photo quality)
 
Remember Comments Are Always Welcome.. Unless you are pointing out a major flaw that I missed and won't be able to fix.. in that case 'Not So Welcome'     
 
Bye For Now
 
Eamonn

A small update,besides cutting and shaping up some more deck beams(not taken any pics as they are well,beams  ) I have milled two more grating 'bases' but have also built up the first one.This has to be cut to size and the top shaped.I have given it a thin coat of polyurethane to stiffen it up a little and hopefully stop me loosing the crisp edges through chipping.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A small,but possibly useful update Work has stopped on my deck 'treenailing' as I have now been waiting a week for some more drillbits to arrive
I have decided to start producing the deck clamps 'in the rough'.These are made from 3mm thick pear sheet and spiled,profiled and prebent where necessary to conform to the inside of the hull.This is not helped by the fact that the tumblehome changes direction right in the middle of these pieces.My plan is to make and bend the sections overlength and add the hooked scarph joints to the ends a little later.
I have started at the bow,a paper template was made for the shape and pieces cut to suit oversize in height and length.The top edge cannot be accurately established until the deck beams are dry fitted and the hull cutouts used as a reference.The angle of cut of the top edge also changes massively at the bow as the profile is in effect twisted.
I soaked the piece to be bent for three hours in water,then this was placed in the kettle and boiled up.The strip was first worked in my fingers to ease the bending process.The strip was then clamped to the inside of the hull and left for 3 days!!!!.Upon removal absolutely no spring back was experienced.The final job for now was to dish the matting face to suit the tumblehome.
The second one is now clamped in place and is resting for it's 3 days I will continue with something else for the rest of the weekend
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A small update,besides cutting and shaping up some more deck beams(not taken any pics as they are well,beams  ) I have milled two more grating 'bases' but have also built up the first one.This has to be cut to size and the top shaped.I have given it a thin coat of polyurethane to stiffen it up a little and hopefully stop me loosing the crisp edges through chipping.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Tom
 
Alexey Domanoff did a tutorial on how to make miniature nails,it is in one of the relevant sections.It is a fairly simple job.you roll the material under a blunt knife blade.The burr that is produced forms the nail head.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Tom
Thanks for the pic,those are the ones on Rivoli I was referring to Drilling the holes on the mill and 'rolling' the heads is almost easy,compared to cutting them to length and fitting them in the holes    
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A small update,besides cutting and shaping up some more deck beams(not taken any pics as they are well,beams  ) I have milled two more grating 'bases' but have also built up the first one.This has to be cut to size and the top shaped.I have given it a thin coat of polyurethane to stiffen it up a little and hopefully stop me loosing the crisp edges through chipping.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Michael for your kind words Knowing my log has been your breakfast companion makes me smile even more The nail detail is not written off just yet Just need to up my game tool wise.As I now have to fit the fastenings inside a 1mm square box,I am going to opt for one fixing per joint(I know of one Russian master who went for just the one on his model of Le Requin).The cobalt PCB drill has the issue of only having 1mm of drilling section.I am going for a 0.2mm hole with 0.18mm copper wire.Two fixings are theoretically possible,but we are bordering brain surgery .Either way,this will have to be drilled on the mill table for accuracy and the curved profile of the top face added beforehand due to the limited drill depth.At present,I am giving this much further thought as to whether the grating should be fitted into it's combing first or later.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Cheers Max, we work the same way then.
 
I have been working with the tops. It's funny how fast this step feels after doing slow work like the ratlines.
 
What I've done is making holes for the  connections for the ropes/next level deadeyes holders.
 
I also tried to make the skanskläder for the mainmast:
 

 

 

 

 
 
/Matti
 
 

Hi Nigel,
 
your "sea of nails" can be done! Here's a picture of Dr.Mike' approach. Happy nailing
 
greetings
Tom
 
 
 
 

A small update,besides cutting and shaping up some more deck beams(not taken any pics as they are well,beams  ) I have milled two more grating 'bases' but have also built up the first one.This has to be cut to size and the top shaped.I have given it a thin coat of polyurethane to stiffen it up a little and hopefully stop me loosing the crisp edges through chipping.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

She is looking great mate you seem to be full speed ahead after your summer 'break'
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

Hi All.. 
 
Just a wee photo of Ballahoo as she currently stands, the channels as you can see are all in place and as I mentioned in a previous post everything on board is now glued..  Next Up Deadeye metal strops & chains and complete painting of the gun-ports (as you may remember I wasn't totally happy so sanded them again, won't know for sure if they are 'right' till I put some paint on but they are better than they were )
Hopefully my new solder will arrive soon and I can complete the Deadeye metal strops, but I can at least get them ready beforehand.
 
Sure we are only flying along here..  
 
All The Best
 
Eamonn
 
BTW finger is much better today. 
 
Oh and sorry about the quality of the photo but it is my old camera !
 
E

Hi Boyd
The one piece of advise I would offer,if you do decide to buy a table saw don't make the same mistake as me,save the extra and buy the Byrnes not the Proxxon FET like me.Whilst the saw itself is fine,the precision repeat-ability of cuts using the saw guide is questionable.Yes there are ways around it involving lots of faffing,but this is one component I am less than impressed with.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Boyd
The one piece of advise I would offer,if you do decide to buy a table saw don't make the same mistake as me,save the extra and buy the Byrnes not the Proxxon FET like me.Whilst the saw itself is fine,the precision repeat-ability of cuts using the saw guide is questionable.Yes there are ways around it involving lots of faffing,but this is one component I am less than impressed with.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Boyd
The one piece of advise I would offer,if you do decide to buy a table saw don't make the same mistake as me,save the extra and buy the Byrnes not the Proxxon FET like me.Whilst the saw itself is fine,the precision repeat-ability of cuts using the saw guide is questionable.Yes there are ways around it involving lots of faffing,but this is one component I am less than impressed with.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Boyd
The one piece of advise I would offer,if you do decide to buy a table saw don't make the same mistake as me,save the extra and buy the Byrnes not the Proxxon FET like me.Whilst the saw itself is fine,the precision repeat-ability of cuts using the saw guide is questionable.Yes there are ways around it involving lots of faffing,but this is one component I am less than impressed with.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

a French comedian (can't remember which one) said
 
"You never grow up. It's just the price of the toys that changes. " How true.
 
Nick

shilhawk,
There has been a lot of good advice given here. My outlook on tools is we all strive to become good artesins. Our tools are an extention of our hands and our soul. Each of us take a personal journey everytime we put a tool to wood. The journey's a little different for each of us. Some of us have spent a lifetime trekking on familiar ground while other's have come to a fork in the road and boldly jumped in wanting something new to challenge and fill their hearts.
 
I learned early in life how to hone and use a good chisel. When I finally had to employ a few craftsmen in my cabinet shop, I chose people who talked with their hands, that brought tools to life by their very love of the craft. Good tools allowed them to extend their heart and soul into the things they created. They do make you better.
 
Everyone here, loves their craft. We're all on a similar journey, just different paths. Whether your name is Chuck, Dan, Mark, Doris, Nigel, Gary, or shilhawk, the desire's the same; to give our best to that which we love and to be a little better every time.
 
You will never regret buying a good tool. It will become a trusted friend on whatever journey you may chose
 
 
Sincere Regards,
 
Bill

A small update - I decided to go ahead & build all 14 gun carriages.I didn`t like the generic kit carriages so I built some from scratch.The sides were built up from 1.5mm square strips.I simulated the reinforcements on the tops& fronts with black heavy paper.The pegs in the axles are made from .020 inch wire. The axle brackets were made from the same wire hammered flat & bent to shape.i have decided to use the kit cannon barrels.Each carriage will have 38 pieces when finished.In the last picture the kit carriage is on the left & mine on the right. Although they are a little taller than the kit ones would have been I am fairly happy how they turned out.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Fabulous work mate At least now you get a little break doing something else,from the monotony of knots
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Cheers Nigel, yeah it was nice to start with the details for the tops now! But as I said I found the ratlining enjoyable to do.
 
/Matti

Ah, the final ratlines of this stage is done, phew. I was bound to make mistakes as it was my first time, and the final mast became better than the first. But I'll look at the mistakes as lessons learned and move on.
 

 
I made a side by side with one of my ref pics, and besides the oversized deadeyes and that I didn't get the right number of ratlines/spacing, I'm happy with how the shaping of the ratlines came out.
 

 
Now  it will feels good to make other things like finishing the tops and planning for the railings.
 
 
/Matti