NMBROOK
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NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Nigel,
Thanks so much, again, for suggesting an idea for improving the look of my build. Your advice is always SO welcome. You are so kind to post your thoughts. I will, of course, follow through. Brilliant idea. (:-) I so appreciated. Your earlier advice regarding the carriage wheels, as you may have noted I "re-did" all of the axles. Much improved (:-) (:-)
Regards,
Michael
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NMBROOK reacted to derebek in Peleng-i Bahri 1777 by derebek - 1/48 - POF - Ottoman Galleon
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NMBROOK reacted to Omega1234 in Lennox by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/192 - 17th Century Warship
Hi everyone. As promised, here's some more photos of Lennox. Please don't laugh at my attempt at making the figurehead which was supposed to be a regal looking lion. Kinda turned out like Kermit the Frog!!! Oh well...at least it's original! I did say that I've still got a long way to go in catching up to some of you guys out there, especially in terms of carving and moulding, etc, etc, etc!
Hope you enjoy the photos.
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NMBROOK reacted to Omega1234 in Lennox by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/192 - 17th Century Warship
A few more....
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NMBROOK got a reaction from riverboat in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Hi Jason,looking forward to following along with your build.
Once you have soaked the keel,try repeated ironing on both sides,using a hot domestic iron on a flat surface.Continually work along the keel with this alternating on both sides and keep going until the heat from the iron dries the ply out completely.This has worked for me with warped ply that won't succumb to simple soaking and weighting
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Captain Al in Need advice to finish planking my Bounty
Yes Nigel you are right on all points. I noticed the fairing of the last frame this afternoon and thought I would fair it down more or fill in the blanks so to speak. But I decided to wait til I was sure how the planks will run cause they may just cross that frame and have plenty of gluing surface just beyond it. If that's the case I just need to make sure the frame isn't standing proud. I've never heard of hooded drop planks so I will quickly add that to my "to do" list and look over your build log. Thanks so much for the suggestions.
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Thanks so much Dirk, Tim, Nils, Sjors, Nigel, Augie and the "likes". You guys are great.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to Omega1234 in Lennox by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/192 - 17th Century Warship
Hi Druxey, Hexnut, Mark, Elmer and Nigel for visiting and for your likes and comments. Nigel, I have been following your work and your current build is fantastic. I love the idea of using ebony, which is seldom used in models. I also have Richard's book and was able to correspond with him a few times. His plans are really masterfully done and of course, the book has so much information in it; that surely makes building the model all the more pleasurable.
Bob - thanks for stopping by. I'll measure the frame width and let you know.
Jan - In the past, I used wire in my previous model of the Bounty and nylon twine in the Victory, but as rigging material, they both didn't look too good, nor did I find them easy to use. For Lennox, my wife found some bead thread in the local jewellery/sewing shop, which I used. It's much better.
Nils- many thanks! I appreciate the compliment. I'm learning to do things better with each model. As I said, I regulalrly stuff the rigging up, mainly because I have no idea what I'm doing! It's a bit like organised confusion, to me, really!!
All the best everyone and thanks for following. I'll post more photos later, as well as getting back to you, Bob, with the measurement of the frames.
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NMBROOK reacted to ChrisLBren in The Bitumen Experiment
Thanks for the advice Gaetan - I used an Exacto #11 for all of these carvings on the quarter galleries - you are a master - ill give your blades a try on the next build which will have much less carving than this one.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Omega1234 in Lennox by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/192 - 17th Century Warship
This is a wonderful little model Omega1234 Having built the Airfix Prince many,many moons ago,I can appreciate how small,small actually is When it comes to wood,I think 1/72 is about as small as I dare go I do have Richard Ensor's fabulous book and recommend it to anyone who wants to add another to their library.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Omega1234 in Lennox by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/192 - 17th Century Warship
Hi all. Thanks to all for the Likes so far! Here are some more photos. These are mainly of the decks and bulkheads, etc. Future build logs will show the masts, bowsprit, figurehead, gold decorative work and the rigging (which I must admit, is the thing I enjoy the least and regularly stuff up the most!!). Anyhow, pls enjoy these photos first.
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NMBROOK reacted to ChrisLBren in The Bitumen Experiment
Thanks Nigel - to get on my soap box - I feel that finish and carvings make a ship model. The one thing i learned very well on Confederacy - is to thin your first coat of oil 50/50 with spirits which will set you up for a uniform finish (as oil does not penetrate a hard wood like Pear uniformly). I learned this thru trial and error. There are many things I'd love to do over with Confederacy (one being not relying on Chucks resin carvings for the human figures on my stern !) - but thats another story - (a #11 Exacto and some courage - anyone can carve with enough persistence.)
I'm formulating a very distinct approach on the next model - thats why I've picked a simple but beautiful schooner as a test bed for my ideas. As a novice oil painter - a Sepia wash actually might do the same thing as Bitumen - its worth a test to compare the results.
Stay tuned,
Chris
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NMBROOK reacted to Ulises Victoria in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
Thank you both, mates. I feel a lot of support from you!!! Good ideas. Will take them into account!
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Ulises Victoria in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
That looks good Ulises Other than either buying some wider lime/basswood strips for the gap or cutting narrow strips from those supplied there isn't much else that can be done .I did wonder if you worked down like normal from the bottom plank down and then notch the planks to suit the metal ports but ensuring you leave two planks gap where the ports are(like Sjors' Mirage) although not necessarily inline with the top and bottom,it would solve the gap problem.Another thing I thought of was to put a vertical strip behind in the middle of the gunports where the hull curves round.This would stop the infill pieces being straight and make them follow the curve.As ever,it is always a battle trying to put ideas in to text,so I hope this is understandable
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Another couple of steps forward on the head ( not without a number of steps backward and sideways in the process). The main rail with its timber head and the head timbers and their cross pieces have been made and installed. The rails are laminated boxwood strip, bent and sanded to shape, following the templates provided by Sam Cassano. The head timbers are the laser cut kit pieces, modified to fit.
Next will be the lower rail, eking and cathead supports. These should provide even more redos than the work just completed.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to Sjors in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
Ulises,
Maybe there is something else what you can try....
Instead of a very small piece at the top, you can cut two planks the size you need to get to the top.
So bottom plank has his own size, two next a little smaller.
There is a next planking goes over it ?
Then they hide the two smaller planks.
But you are on the right track!
Sjors
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Sjors in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
That looks good Ulises Other than either buying some wider lime/basswood strips for the gap or cutting narrow strips from those supplied there isn't much else that can be done .I did wonder if you worked down like normal from the bottom plank down and then notch the planks to suit the metal ports but ensuring you leave two planks gap where the ports are(like Sjors' Mirage) although not necessarily inline with the top and bottom,it would solve the gap problem.Another thing I thought of was to put a vertical strip behind in the middle of the gunports where the hull curves round.This would stop the infill pieces being straight and make them follow the curve.As ever,it is always a battle trying to put ideas in to text,so I hope this is understandable
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Omega1234 in Lennox by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/192 - 17th Century Warship
Hi everyone. Some more photos.
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NMBROOK reacted to Omega1234 in Lennox by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/192 - 17th Century Warship
More internal accommodation details:
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NMBROOK reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in The Bitumen Experiment
The Russians introduced ourselves to the ‘’bitume de judée’’. The first time I saw it was on the French forum. Alex talked about his receipe containing the following ingredients.
Beeswax: Slows drying time, soften the color and more transparent. Mixing it with the
bitumen allows beewax molecules to bind and make the asphalt more neutral
paraffin: help beewax or could be white wax candle
asphalt: Was used by the egyptians for embalming Oil soluble
pine resin: Gives plastic properties and can form a varnish if mixed with alchool
natural soap: probably for the oils in the soap
turpentine: Fluidity and solubility of the mix
siccative: shorter drying time, max 10% of total mix.
An easier version can effectively be done by mixing tung oil and bitumen. Depending of the bitumen solubility, an agent can be added to help to incorporate with tung oil. As long as bitumen is not applied in a too thick coat, there will be no problem to dry.
On the picture, concentrating on the first 3 tops ones, bare wood, tung oil, bitumen. Another way to apply it is with beewax + turpentine odorless to give it some flexibility and ease in application and add bitumen and then some polishing is needed (but this method is better suited for wood cabinet). Wax is easy to apply on large surface. but when too many corners, it is a less interesting option.
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NMBROOK reacted to Omega1234 in Lennox by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/192 - 17th Century Warship
Hello everyone. Although my model of the 17th Century 70 gun Restoration Warship, Lennox, was completed in mid 2013, I've decided to do this build log for two reasons, one for instructive purposes (to show how NOT to do things) and secondly, as a means to offer the plans to anyone who's interested (first come, first serve). If you are interested in the plans, then pls let me know.
About the model: The model is built in Admiralty style, with large parts of the hull cutaway and deck exposed so that the interior work can be viewed. The hull is approximately 29 cms long, or 36 cm including the bowsprit. For the sake of clarity, I'll include photos starting from the bare framed hull, through to the finished model over a series of build logs.
Hope you enjoy. Comments and feedback welcomed as always.
The first photos start with the framed hull and further progress on the internal structures will appear in the following build logs.
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NMBROOK reacted to SawdustDave in Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
Good solid mechanical method Nigel. That method works best if done prior to planking the hull, or even installing the bulkhead.
I just couldn't come up with a solid way to clamp a block to the narrow deck. Thankfully....managed to carefully "creep up" on it without doing any damage.
Thank you and Pete for your visit.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Sjors in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
Hi Ulises
I have been following along in the shadows Your build is coming on well,but I can appreciate the problems the gunport design must cause. Sjors has touched on something I have been thinking about.You have probably thought of this yourself.If you place one plank above and one below the metal gunport,you could glue a section of first planking vertically from behind to these planks against the gunport on the opposite side to the bulkheads.This would provide strength to the otherwise unsupported end and give you something to glue that end to.This does rely on access so you may find it easier to do one row at a time as you work downwards with the planking.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from SawdustDave in Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
Great work Dave My preferred method for the bowsprit is to drill the correct size hole in a wooden block on the pillar drill at the required angle using the tilting table.This block is then clamped solidly to the bulkhead and deck and I drill the hole through slowly using a cordless drill(lower rpm than mains power).Provided I have coated the area with thinned polyurethane,I don't get any tearing of the planking.This method however is not for the fainthearted .
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Ulises Victoria in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship
Nigel. Indeed. What you say about the vertical planks is something mentioned in the instructions. I did not do it because I felt the frames were epoxied and very firmly placed that I though there was no need to reinforce them, BUT... you are quite right regarding the support for the in-between planks. I may not be too late to start doing that.
Thanks for your comment.
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