NMBROOK

Thank you Mattie and Nigel for looking in and your kind comments..... Just a quick update as to where I'm at,( no pictures at this time, sorry Sjors!) I don't want anyone to think I've abandoned ship ......... it's been awhile since I've posted any progress..... All I have left to do on the rigging is to tie off the port side fore mast back stays , then  I'm finished with the rigging. this I plan to do today :D :D . The only things left to do will be adding some misc. features and reinstalling the cat heads.When that's finished then I'll post some finished pictures . My thanks to everyone here for all the help I've received to put this together.
Frank

Hi Frank
Having read through your log,I have to say fantastic work !!.You have some great weathering techniques on display  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Frank
Having read through your log,I have to say fantastic work !!.You have some great weathering techniques on display  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Small Photo Update:
 
Transom is planked ! ... that's kinda it really..    Sounded more exciting in my head.. :mellow:  :mellow:
 
Bye For Now
 
Eamonn

Excellent work Alexander Producing the carving in two halves makes an awful lot of sense when the relief work is double sided.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

B.E.
 
Thanks for the compliment, it is certainly nice to read this from such an artist as you are. Very much appreciated.
 
Ah the "old World" how nice it is to hang on to traditions, including active vocabulary. This word being originally British, never got exported to our side of the pond. I need to start using it to confuse my friends (:-)
 
Michael

Hi Keith,I think the issue's being raised are all valid one's.I think that if you want to build Friedrich Wilhelm,but have identified that out of personal choice,that you would replace many items,probably the most cost effective route would be to just buy the plans.The time spent cutting the bulkheads out yourself,for which full patterns are provided,would save you a heap of cash.This route has yet been unmentioned and it is the route I will go with Royal William.I do have the plans and although a little more expensive than Sergals comparable examples,they are well worth the money.You can still use Pete's interpretive files as a reference.To be honest,although a scratchbuild,I don't think the additional work would be much greater than buying the kit and you would have for all intensive purposes,a practicum to follow.I think if you followed this route,in all likelyhood,you would finish up with a model exactly how you want it for an outlay equal to,if not less than buying the kit.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I agree with Brian.
 
In my case, I'm primarily interested in the ship. I'll add what I need to the kit. If I want to build a kit model of Mordaunt or Falmouth or Royal William, then I know where I'll be getting it. If I want to build the Victory, then I can choose the best kit from the many offerings.
 
Tim

Hey there Tony, would you believe I was thinking that it looked TV shaped too, but thought better of mentioning it..as I would imagine that late1700's TV was pretty boring through lack of proper funding with there being a war on and what-not..  :mellow:  :mellow: 
 
Kester: I probably will plank the transom before attaching the 'S.O.C.T.T.A.T.T.O.O.T.T.' (for short) then sand the planks down a lot so they don't bulk up the area too much before attaching the 'S.O.C..you get the idea..T.T'
I had a notion of painting the Transom black, but with it planked and left natural it might look great in contrast to the walnut of the 'S.O.C.T.. etc.T.T.'  ,   I shall have to cogitate at length on this.. 
 
Hey there Nigel, I had just posted this when I spotted your post, Transom Surround it is so.. much more succinct than 'S.O.C.T.T and so on T.T.'   I will be doing the 'poly' experimentation shortly, I see a nice matt polyurethane in a local shop, but I am still amazed at the difference in price between Amazon (UK) and the U.S.
 
Thanks for stopping by folks and for the advice.
 
Sail 'er Easy
 
Eamonn

Nice to see some pics up Eamonn Coming on well mate.As for my entry into 'name that piece',I would have to say in all likelyhood there may not be a nautical name for it.I had a brief look at my reference material and on the real vessel this would obviously be made of separate parts which would be named individually,so as an assembly I think Tony is probably right.As regards your 'wipe on poly' can you not just experiment wiping on normal poly?It would probably require thinning a little.Keith Julier used to apply normal poly to his decks to seal them by wiping
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Michael
I do see where you are coming from there.I cannot be doing with the faff of making my own,I would rather spend the time on other parts of the build.I too am considering ordering in from Chuck,including replacing the kit blocks with Pear ones,for my Caroline build.I haven't taken a sidestep to assess my requirements yet.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Love that Starboard quarter shot of Wasa Michael, what a class build she looks.
 
I'm with Nigel on the 'faffing' about trying to make stuff when I can get a quality bought in product, ropes and blocks are a prime example.
 
'Faffing' is alive and well in these 'ere parts, but then I'm not far from Nigel
 
B.E.

Nigel,
 
Noted regarding the ropes (:-)  
 
BTW you made my day with the word "faff" I had not heard that word since childhood. My mom, who was born in Carlyle, ( A bit North of you) used that word all the time when speaking to my brothers and me. 
 
xoxo  Thanks for the memories
 
MIchael

As promised a sequel to the last few threads. This openwork inset





 
Here was the difficulty. Part thickness only 2.8 mm, and the thread must be on both sides. Therefore, in areas of thinning turned very small thickness. And item several times I broke during operation.   I had to find a way out of the problem. Did so: the item consists of two halves. They became even thinner, but now they can be glued drops of glue on the bar and do as a bas-relief carving. And then glue it all together. Easy! Maybe someone is handy.  

Hi Keith,
I have the 'engraving' attachment and have used it to produce some window frames on mass.Check out my milling and jig making thread in the jig section.It does explain how I went about it.The technique has not been perfected,but once I have ironed out the teething troubles,I am hoping to be able to use this for mass cutting of shapes.You could do it freehand but the device doesn't move as freely as you would imagine,so I machined guides in the template for the stylus to follow.
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey Matti, you don't have to worry mate, with the skills you've  displayed so far the rigging is going to be a walk in the park.
 
You just have to remember " One line at a time".
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Keith,
I have the 'engraving' attachment and have used it to produce some window frames on mass.Check out my milling and jig making thread in the jig section.It does explain how I went about it.The technique has not been perfected,but once I have ironed out the teething troubles,I am hoping to be able to use this for mass cutting of shapes.You could do it freehand but the device doesn't move as freely as you would imagine,so I machined guides in the template for the stylus to follow.
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As drill chucks have been mentioned can I just say that they should only be used for drilling. They are not designed to take sideways loads as in the use of milling cutters. Drill chucks are generally not as accurate as collets either.

I have a question for owners of the GE70 engraving accessory for the MF70 (pictured above). Proxxon's website warns against using the tool freehand, however I would imagine that this warning is most applicable to milling metal. For our application (milling wood) - has anybody tried using this tool freehand? I would imagine that it would be very useful to blow up a feature from a plan 5:1 and then use this tool to mill out the design, however that would involve using the tool freehand. Is this possible, or is the resistance in the tool too great to allow such precise control?

Wonderful work Doris    The swivel guns are not supplied in the Panart kit,but I will confess,I will cheat and buy some.I could not comprehend making them from card like you have !
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
 
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines.  Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades).  All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable.  But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think.  Obviously work still to do.  Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension.  Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
 
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains.  Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'.  My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.  
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed.  This technique helped a lot!

 
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes.  This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud).  I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
 
 
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends

Finished and placed on the ship....






 
Kind regards
Doris

I also decided to change wooden colour on the front staircases and painted them into red/vermillion to achieve better and probably more realistic result. Red colour  - vermillion was probably used on fitting on the real ship.
 





 
 

Hello dear friends,
Thank you for your kind words and support, that means a lot for me.

Mirabell61: I suppose that royal family could take their pets also on board. I like making sculptures, sometimes it is a fun....
 
 Oh yes, I have to keep an eye on them.
 
During previous days I have finished other staircases and also 8 pieces of small half-pounder swivel guns made of card.
Here are some pics, so you can enjoy them.

Thank you very much for your feedback. I am very excited about your reaction to my work. Thank you very much!