NMBROOK

Hi Keith,
I have the 'engraving' attachment and have used it to produce some window frames on mass.Check out my milling and jig making thread in the jig section.It does explain how I went about it.The technique has not been perfected,but once I have ironed out the teething troubles,I am hoping to be able to use this for mass cutting of shapes.You could do it freehand but the device doesn't move as freely as you would imagine,so I machined guides in the template for the stylus to follow.
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As drill chucks have been mentioned can I just say that they should only be used for drilling. They are not designed to take sideways loads as in the use of milling cutters. Drill chucks are generally not as accurate as collets either.

I have a question for owners of the GE70 engraving accessory for the MF70 (pictured above). Proxxon's website warns against using the tool freehand, however I would imagine that this warning is most applicable to milling metal. For our application (milling wood) - has anybody tried using this tool freehand? I would imagine that it would be very useful to blow up a feature from a plan 5:1 and then use this tool to mill out the design, however that would involve using the tool freehand. Is this possible, or is the resistance in the tool too great to allow such precise control?

Wonderful work Doris    The swivel guns are not supplied in the Panart kit,but I will confess,I will cheat and buy some.I could not comprehend making them from card like you have !
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
 
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines.  Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades).  All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable.  But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think.  Obviously work still to do.  Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension.  Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
 
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains.  Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'.  My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.  
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed.  This technique helped a lot!

 
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes.  This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud).  I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
 
 
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends

Finished and placed on the ship....






 
Kind regards
Doris

I also decided to change wooden colour on the front staircases and painted them into red/vermillion to achieve better and probably more realistic result. Red colour  - vermillion was probably used on fitting on the real ship.
 





 
 

Hello dear friends,
Thank you for your kind words and support, that means a lot for me.

Mirabell61: I suppose that royal family could take their pets also on board. I like making sculptures, sometimes it is a fun....
 
 Oh yes, I have to keep an eye on them.
 
During previous days I have finished other staircases and also 8 pieces of small half-pounder swivel guns made of card.
Here are some pics, so you can enjoy them.

Thank you very much for your feedback. I am very excited about your reaction to my work. Thank you very much!

I realized, Nigel.  Thank you very much for your support and kind words. And now, and during the previous pages. You have always been kind to me. I thank you.  If nevertheless I hurt you something,  ask forgiveness for it.  P.S. Very hard when I do not know English. Translators do help approximately the written

Simply wonderful details Doris!!!Truly incredible work  
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I think you may have miss understood my post Alexander.The Russian English translator is not the best.I really don't know what it must have said at the other end I meant it was your choice to say who you produce these carvings for.I know you are posting on here to show how you do it and I am sure I speak for everyone when I say we are very grateful for you doing this.
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous to see the work in progress pictures I was aware that you produce carvings to order for various master modelers,but it was not my place to say anything I can see a lot of sense in that specialist tasks are given to certain individuals.With following the shipmodels forum I realise that several modelers have certain specialties and offer their services to other modelers.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I do not know if I've translated and understood your words. If I wrote an answer wrong, I apologize.  Master, for which I made ​​this thread young. He is 21 year. But he was already an experienced master and I'm sure he knows how to do the installation. Thanks for your advice, I will tell him.  I do not know whether his model masts and rigging. Later try to show a photo with his model. I really like his ship model.

I think you may have miss understood my post Alexander.The Russian English translator is not the best.I really don't know what it must have said at the other end I meant it was your choice to say who you produce these carvings for.I know you are posting on here to show how you do it and I am sure I speak for everyone when I say we are very grateful for you doing this.
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That looks simply stunning Matti   Like the rest of your build,it just looks real!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Started assembling my HMS Convulsion top mast trestle tree. 3 pieces overlap 2. The latter pieces have 3 notches for the cross pieces to sit. As usual, the notches are a hair too narrow. As I carefully try to widen one with a small file it breaks off at the notch. I tried gluing it with no success. That's OK....it's a small enough piece that I can cut a new one from the piece of walnut it came from. 15 minutes later, after some careful work with my scroll saw and belt sander, I've got the right size and shape. I figure I will use my Byrnes saw to cut the notches. I experiment with blade hight and finally have some cuts at just the right depth with some scrap wood. However, as soon as my newly made walnut piece touches the blade....it breaks off! So, back to square one, but this time I make it out from a piece of cherry left over from my Hannah frames. Go through the same process, including notching with the Byrnes. Perfect. I then glue the cross pieces into the notches. Waiting for that side to dry, I take the other walnut piece (the unbroken one) and realize the notches, again, need a tiny wee bit of widening. Remembering my first attempt at this, I am SUPER careful of any undue pressure with the small file. Well....you guessed it.....breaks off. I will now be making 3 of these out of cherry.
 
I'm not crazy about walnut even for planking, but for small, thin pieces, I will build my own going forward with something else.
 
 
Anyone else share this frustration? 
 

Truly fabulous work Ersin!!  
 
Kind Regards Nigel

more:



 

I bought same video a course from the Russian shop, as a part of 12 disks DVD. Yes, all understand that it very poor quality cinema installation, but the main thing in it not it, and examples of work of this master.
I think, you know a site of the Russian modellers where it is possible to  give ask und to look at their new works, you can ask questions in the English, many people very well understand this language, but also always there is Google the translator.
 
http://www.modelsworld.ru/shop/product9317.php

We buy books on how to build, why not a DVD.  I've been considering this one but haven't bought it yet.

yeah, it was hard work. Everything is very subtle. And legs and wings. At this time, there were no accidents, nothing had to be restored as a lion. I tried. Well, it all worked out.

Fabulous Alexander    A truly beautiful piece of carving!You must have taken extreme care to avoid anything breaking off,particularly the claws that run against the grain.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

more

Time to start making guns. After searching around for barrels to replace the kit castings, I could find none that closely matched the sizes needed. As a result, I had two choices: use the castings or make my own. In this case, I chose to try to use the castings. After a lot of filing, drilling out the bore and adding the rings for the breeching rope to the button, the barrels looked acceptable to my eye. They were then painted black.
 
Next came the question of the carriages. This time, I decided not to use the kit parts, but to use the laser cut pear carriage kits from the Lumberyard. Here again, because of the odd scale of the kit (1:76.8), finding a size match was a bit of trial and error. I ended up using their 1:64 6 lb carriages. These still required some modification to allow the barrels to fit. After assembly and finish with Wipe-on Poly, I added the eyebolts, ringbolts and the quoin handles (these were done with the smallest brass belaying pins that I had on hand). The bolt heads on the carriages were done with a fine tip marker. The barrels were then glued in place and the cap squares added using black painted tape ( another concession to the very small size of these pieces).
 
I'm going to rig these guns with blocks and rigging line from Chuck. Sizes are again the issue and I'm now awaiting my second order from Chuck to pick what I want to use.
 
Bob