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NMBROOK

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  1. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Bill Hime in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Hi Sjors
    I have changed the bulkheads to make it easier for me later to produce the feature I want.I have taken a picture of a Navy Board model to show you what I mean.If you look where my 'Arrow' is pointing you will see that the hull frames are left open between the upper wales.This is the feature I want to replicate.I would have had to chop pieces of the plywood away later using the full kit bulkhead but replacing them now is easier.If it wasn't for this 'detail' I could have kept the bulkheads as they were.This is also the reason I have changed to single planking,I had worked out how to do it with double planking but it was just making the job complicated.Please feel free to ask all the questions you like.
    Kind Regards Nigel
     
    P.s.I have a large supply of the clamps,I could do you a special deal      

  2. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Sjors in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Hi Sjors
    I have changed the bulkheads to make it easier for me later to produce the feature I want.I have taken a picture of a Navy Board model to show you what I mean.If you look where my 'Arrow' is pointing you will see that the hull frames are left open between the upper wales.This is the feature I want to replicate.I would have had to chop pieces of the plywood away later using the full kit bulkhead but replacing them now is easier.If it wasn't for this 'detail' I could have kept the bulkheads as they were.This is also the reason I have changed to single planking,I had worked out how to do it with double planking but it was just making the job complicated.Please feel free to ask all the questions you like.
    Kind Regards Nigel
     
    P.s.I have a large supply of the clamps,I could do you a special deal      

  3. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Thank you very much indeed Matti
    Kind Regards Nigel
  4. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to JanV in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Thanks Nigel, I know that glue and I even have this in my workshop.
    I will experiment with this glue
  5. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to gjdale in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    That's some very clever modifications there Nigel. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this progresses.
  6. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from tarbrush in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
    I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
    Kind Regards Nigel







  7. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Sjors in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Nigel,
     
    Nice clamps     
    I try to follow what you are doing but for me it's gonna be difficult !
    My reading English is not that good so I will see what you are doing on the way.
    Maybe when I aks something and you have told that before  sorry for that.
    I understand that those deck beams has to be shorted ?
    You replace them from the kit .
     

  8. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Bill Hime in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
    I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
    Kind Regards Nigel







  9. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    A minor update, but still slowly moving forward. Here are a few pics of the installed channel deadeyes for the main mast. Thanks to all of you who are so kind spending time on my log, clicking and of course offering your thoughts; much appreciated.
     
    As many other builders have said, close up photos are scary....I see all kinds of errors that I have made (:-) 
     
     
    Regards,
     
     
    Michael





  10. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    It does indeed Eamonn,we live in the wrong place,I have been to Truro a few times,but not 'fraggle 'rock where CMB is based  only kidding it was another rock where they started from but from what I have heard by all accounts,it was in the middle of nowhere.
     
    Kind Regards Nigel
  11. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Jeez South West of England seems to be the place to be for Model Boat Supplies.. I've even been to Truro! (and was in College in Plymouth, the College Phase's of my Cadetship)
     
    Eamonn
  12. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Marvelous work as always mate!
     
     
    /Matti
  13. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Hey all!
     
    Making the cannons are more work then I thought. The wheels and axels are brass and I'm no fan of metal parts as they make painting and shaping much harder. So there is a lot of time just to sand them to make the paint bite.
     
    Anyway the carriages are made of a total of 20 parts each (I still have to add the two locking parts that holds the cannon).
     
    Painting them black was quite tricky as it's hard to get a realistic look with the details noticeable. It's a mixture with gray/black. Then highlighting edges and details with gray and finally blending them with brown/black washes. I wanted the wheels to look like they where rolled in dust/being worned so they are painted like the carriages. 
     
    A few pics of the real cannons and carriages:




     
    And here are mine so far:




     
    Still some painting left to do, and also there are some baking soda I need to clean off.
     
     
    /Matti
  14. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Thanks mate, thats a very kind comment that makes me happy!
     
    I forgot to say that they ordered black paint for the carriers when they built her. One of the falconets had no carriage but where strapped to the deck and I will likely try to do that on my model also.
     
     
    Cheers
     
     
    /Matti
  15. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from maggsl_01 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
    I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
    Kind Regards Nigel







  16. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
    I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
    Kind Regards Nigel







  17. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from JPett in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    I am going to try and get technical now and provide text with each picture  
    The first step is to copy the drawings regarding the bulkheads.This is due to the between deck areas not be cut out from the factory.These were pasted to the relevant bulkheads to allow cutting out with the scrollsaw.Some areas were not shown,mainly the first and last bulkhead which will require some drafting to get the cutouts.

    The design of the kit intends for a 3mm by 7mm stringer to be fitted each side of the hull.This stringer does not coincide with anything and to a certain extent will be in my way,so the bulkhead notches were filled with scrap timber.

    These are pictures of the skeleton so far.You will notice I have cut my own notches out on the lower deck.These are for 5mm square stringers supplied by me.These provide support for the lower gundeck,which is the only deck that will have a plywood subdeck.The plywood additions to the structure are to incorporate dimensional stability and resistance to twisting.The triangle design makes the skeleton rigid,it is impossible to twist it for and aft.The lower hull will be infilled with lime wood.This triangular structure reduces the wood required and also prevents any distortion that can occur due to the moisture from the glue when fitting the infill.                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
    That brings things up to date for the time being.
    Kind Regards Nigel
  18. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    I have to hand it to you mate,those are amongst some of the best representations of artillery at this scale I have seen     Put simply they just look REAL!
     
    Kind Regards Nigel
  19. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    I get my usual modelling timbers and the Pear sheet from the Model dockyard in Truro(300 miles SSW of me ).They are quicker with delivery than CMB.Boxwood I get from Original Marquetry.com.If you look in the banding and stringing section you will find thin boxwood strips ranging in width.They do thicker materials in sheet form.I get my Ebony and Boxwood from there and cut it in the table saw.Ebony and boxwood 'billets' from workshop heaven.Thats about it for non forestry size pieces.The deck of Caroline was planked with boxwood 'strings' from OMarquetry.
     
    Kind Regards Nigel
  20. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    I always said that there was clever stuff going on here..
     
    E
  21. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from piperjoe in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
    I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
    Kind Regards Nigel







  22. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Ahh,but not single use if the next thing you clamp is smaller
     
    Kind Regards Nigel
  23. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    At least you have plenty to read while the timber arrives Those coordinates make it CMB so yes I have,looks like I won't be adding any more infill to Mordaunt for a little while   My usual supplier only had 1 sheet of 20mm and that's fitted in the hull
    Kind Regards Nigel
  24. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Ahhh the old Top Secret Single Use Clamps..
     
    Niiice
     
    Eamonn
  25. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Thanks Eamonn,yes pins a plenty and now you have seen my top secret 'snap-on' clamps as well      
     
    Kind Regards Nigel
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