NMBROOK

I have to hand it to you mate,those are amongst some of the best representations of artillery at this scale I have seen     Put simply they just look REAL!
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I get my usual modelling timbers and the Pear sheet from the Model dockyard in Truro(300 miles SSW of me ).They are quicker with delivery than CMB.Boxwood I get from Original Marquetry.com.If you look in the banding and stringing section you will find thin boxwood strips ranging in width.They do thicker materials in sheet form.I get my Ebony and Boxwood from there and cut it in the table saw.Ebony and boxwood 'billets' from workshop heaven.Thats about it for non forestry size pieces.The deck of Caroline was planked with boxwood 'strings' from OMarquetry.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I always said that there was clever stuff going on here..
 
E

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel

Ahh,but not single use if the next thing you clamp is smaller
 
Kind Regards Nigel

At least you have plenty to read while the timber arrives Those coordinates make it CMB so yes I have,looks like I won't be adding any more infill to Mordaunt for a little while   My usual supplier only had 1 sheet of 20mm and that's fitted in the hull
Kind Regards Nigel

Ahhh the old Top Secret Single Use Clamps..
 
Niiice
 
Eamonn

Thanks Eamonn,yes pins a plenty and now you have seen my top secret 'snap-on' clamps as well      
 
Kind Regards Nigel

News Flash...
Rabbet cut, but towards the top of the stem it is practically non existent due to the Bulwarks  so I epoxied (Picked up some Nigel, and wanted to try it, this looked the perfect spot as strength was required with the bond) a thin strip of 2mm by 1 mm wood down the length of the stem, once set, tomorrow  !!, I will sand it to .5mm or so.  This should give a nice even Rabbet all the way along!
Alas no photos as the whole shebang is taped up to hold the thin strip in place..
 
Hopefully tomorrow will see the Bow and Keel in place & pinned.
 
No Timber yet, but the Yellow Aliphatic wood glue and Period Ship Kit Builders Manual showed up this morning
 
Take Care Folks
 
Eamonn

Nice.. The Pear looks great and I see the Brass Dowels we were discussing on a different thread!
 
Take Care Mate
 
Eamonn

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel

Let me add a last word.  It should be said that the Caldercraft kit is by far more recent than the Euromodel Royal William.  Keith Julier made a review of the RW in the first issue of his "Period Ship Handbook, which I found in the 70's in Londen.
 
I would certainly go for the Royal William for A simple reason: there are dozens of kits of Victory, and more to come, and I am sure, many thousands of builds have been or are being made of her.  Nothing wrong with that, but if you want to make a model that stands out of the crowd, then the choice is Royal William.
 
And even if I've never built one of these kits, I know that indeed their metal decoration parts are way better than what you see in other Italian kits.  Only a few details aask for some refining like anchors and pinrails, but then this is indeed a very unimportant detail.
 
Happy modelling
 
JP
 
P.S.  an unexperienced modeller could find it frustrating to see so many details on the plans that are not included in the package, but I'm sure all the exterior detail is included.

Fabulous work Jan,This is truely a labour of love for you and it shows in your work.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Wayne
I thought I would drop by as I have been following Bob's Essex build.I don't want to come across as 'steaming in'The deformity in the keel is caused by the dowel holes in the offending bulkheads being out of position.The only way to get it straight is to 'chase' out around the dowels with the dremel on the offending bulkheads.I have a feeling the false keel will then 'pop' straight,if it doesn't it will only need the lightest of clamping to true up. To put the strength back is just a case of cutting some ply washers cut in half and gluing either side of the dowel.I hope this sorts the problem,I felt I should speak up as I have come across this before.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Wayne
I thought I would drop by as I have been following Bob's Essex build.I don't want to come across as 'steaming in'The deformity in the keel is caused by the dowel holes in the offending bulkheads being out of position.The only way to get it straight is to 'chase' out around the dowels with the dremel on the offending bulkheads.I have a feeling the false keel will then 'pop' straight,if it doesn't it will only need the lightest of clamping to true up. To put the strength back is just a case of cutting some ply washers cut in half and gluing either side of the dowel.I hope this sorts the problem,I felt I should speak up as I have come across this before.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks Mate, that's deadly!
 
All the Best
 
Eamonn

Not a daft question Eamonn,I file mine smooth with the keel.Simply because I rather it was visible to demonstrate that it has been done properly,but I appreciate that is a matter of personal taste.If you want to fill over,I would snip the pin after the glue is distributed,with the pin not fully home.You should be able to push it fully in with the length of brass.Carefully clean the uncured epoxy off with some paper towel with a little nail varnish remover on it.You should then have a little recess you can fill later,or if you want to go the whole hog,you could whittle a little walnut peg and fit that without removing the epoxy,this could then be sanded flush when set.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Daft question Nigel, but in your method to 'Trim the Pin Flush' do you saw it or clip it, I ask 'cos I was just going to recess it into the hole and fill over the top (or in this case sand the epoxy down flush if it stood proud)
Hope you don't mind all the questions
 
E

I almost forgot   One last tip and I only thought of this last week as I have been doing a lot of pinning on Mordaunt.Put some 2inch masking tape over your pin hole and cut a tiny window out with the scalpel,stops epoxy everywhere,the tiny bit that is left when you remove the tape(before the glue sets hard)trims off easily when you trim the pin flush
Kind Regards Nigel

I generally use the Zap 30min because it comes in two large bottles,I go through a fair bit,but to be perfectly honest all are ok,I just avoid the 5min ones because they go off too fast,the slow one I use,I could mix enough and do all the pinning in one go,rather than mixing some for each pin.It is also a little thinner than the likes of Araldite so penetrates into the joint better
Kind Regards Nigel

I always use Epoxy on anything that could be broken or any joint that isn't snug.Wood glue is not very strong at bridging gaps
 
Kind Regards Nigel
P.S.drill the hole for the pins a little larger,the small gap is immaterial if you use epoxy,say 1.2mm,just helps ensure you get good coverage with the glue.

Thanks for the explanation J, I was wondering how you would harpoon such a fast creature
 
Nigel Thanks too for your explanation (in fact if you hadn't gone into detail I would only have been back in touch asking you questions as I was planning on pinning the Keel and Bow in place, I have some 1m wire ready for it!) I like your method for hardening copper wire too.
 
I see both yourself and J use Epoxy on builds so that confirms it.. off to the shops tomorrow
 
Thanks again for getting back to me.
 
Take it Easy
 
Eamonn

Another detail on masts - collars.

Fabulous work Bob!I like it a lot.I think leaving select areas of the deck unplanked will be a great idea.My bible on the subject is 'Navy Board Ship Models 1650-1750'by John Franklin ISBN 0-85177-454-7.I bought my copy around 15 years ago,but I find it one of my best reference books.He discusses at great length(with some good drawings) the construction used in these models.There are many examples of how planking is omitted and there are a few ways to do it so it looks right.If you do not have the book already,I thoroughly recommend it to you,or any one else reading this who is thinking of going down route.
 
Kind Regards Nigel