NMBROOK

News Flash...
Rabbet cut, but towards the top of the stem it is practically non existent due to the Bulwarks  so I epoxied (Picked up some Nigel, and wanted to try it, this looked the perfect spot as strength was required with the bond) a thin strip of 2mm by 1 mm wood down the length of the stem, once set, tomorrow  !!, I will sand it to .5mm or so.  This should give a nice even Rabbet all the way along!
Alas no photos as the whole shebang is taped up to hold the thin strip in place..
 
Hopefully tomorrow will see the Bow and Keel in place & pinned.
 
No Timber yet, but the Yellow Aliphatic wood glue and Period Ship Kit Builders Manual showed up this morning
 
Take Care Folks
 
Eamonn

Nice.. The Pear looks great and I see the Brass Dowels we were discussing on a different thread!
 
Take Care Mate
 
Eamonn

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel

Let me add a last word.  It should be said that the Caldercraft kit is by far more recent than the Euromodel Royal William.  Keith Julier made a review of the RW in the first issue of his "Period Ship Handbook, which I found in the 70's in Londen.
 
I would certainly go for the Royal William for A simple reason: there are dozens of kits of Victory, and more to come, and I am sure, many thousands of builds have been or are being made of her.  Nothing wrong with that, but if you want to make a model that stands out of the crowd, then the choice is Royal William.
 
And even if I've never built one of these kits, I know that indeed their metal decoration parts are way better than what you see in other Italian kits.  Only a few details aask for some refining like anchors and pinrails, but then this is indeed a very unimportant detail.
 
Happy modelling
 
JP
 
P.S.  an unexperienced modeller could find it frustrating to see so many details on the plans that are not included in the package, but I'm sure all the exterior detail is included.

Fabulous work Jan,This is truely a labour of love for you and it shows in your work.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Wayne
I thought I would drop by as I have been following Bob's Essex build.I don't want to come across as 'steaming in'The deformity in the keel is caused by the dowel holes in the offending bulkheads being out of position.The only way to get it straight is to 'chase' out around the dowels with the dremel on the offending bulkheads.I have a feeling the false keel will then 'pop' straight,if it doesn't it will only need the lightest of clamping to true up. To put the strength back is just a case of cutting some ply washers cut in half and gluing either side of the dowel.I hope this sorts the problem,I felt I should speak up as I have come across this before.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Wayne
I thought I would drop by as I have been following Bob's Essex build.I don't want to come across as 'steaming in'The deformity in the keel is caused by the dowel holes in the offending bulkheads being out of position.The only way to get it straight is to 'chase' out around the dowels with the dremel on the offending bulkheads.I have a feeling the false keel will then 'pop' straight,if it doesn't it will only need the lightest of clamping to true up. To put the strength back is just a case of cutting some ply washers cut in half and gluing either side of the dowel.I hope this sorts the problem,I felt I should speak up as I have come across this before.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks Mate, that's deadly!
 
All the Best
 
Eamonn

Not a daft question Eamonn,I file mine smooth with the keel.Simply because I rather it was visible to demonstrate that it has been done properly,but I appreciate that is a matter of personal taste.If you want to fill over,I would snip the pin after the glue is distributed,with the pin not fully home.You should be able to push it fully in with the length of brass.Carefully clean the uncured epoxy off with some paper towel with a little nail varnish remover on it.You should then have a little recess you can fill later,or if you want to go the whole hog,you could whittle a little walnut peg and fit that without removing the epoxy,this could then be sanded flush when set.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Daft question Nigel, but in your method to 'Trim the Pin Flush' do you saw it or clip it, I ask 'cos I was just going to recess it into the hole and fill over the top (or in this case sand the epoxy down flush if it stood proud)
Hope you don't mind all the questions
 
E

I almost forgot   One last tip and I only thought of this last week as I have been doing a lot of pinning on Mordaunt.Put some 2inch masking tape over your pin hole and cut a tiny window out with the scalpel,stops epoxy everywhere,the tiny bit that is left when you remove the tape(before the glue sets hard)trims off easily when you trim the pin flush
Kind Regards Nigel

I generally use the Zap 30min because it comes in two large bottles,I go through a fair bit,but to be perfectly honest all are ok,I just avoid the 5min ones because they go off too fast,the slow one I use,I could mix enough and do all the pinning in one go,rather than mixing some for each pin.It is also a little thinner than the likes of Araldite so penetrates into the joint better
Kind Regards Nigel

I always use Epoxy on anything that could be broken or any joint that isn't snug.Wood glue is not very strong at bridging gaps
 
Kind Regards Nigel
P.S.drill the hole for the pins a little larger,the small gap is immaterial if you use epoxy,say 1.2mm,just helps ensure you get good coverage with the glue.

Thanks for the explanation J, I was wondering how you would harpoon such a fast creature
 
Nigel Thanks too for your explanation (in fact if you hadn't gone into detail I would only have been back in touch asking you questions as I was planning on pinning the Keel and Bow in place, I have some 1m wire ready for it!) I like your method for hardening copper wire too.
 
I see both yourself and J use Epoxy on builds so that confirms it.. off to the shops tomorrow
 
Thanks again for getting back to me.
 
Take it Easy
 
Eamonn

Another detail on masts - collars.

Fabulous work Bob!I like it a lot.I think leaving select areas of the deck unplanked will be a great idea.My bible on the subject is 'Navy Board Ship Models 1650-1750'by John Franklin ISBN 0-85177-454-7.I bought my copy around 15 years ago,but I find it one of my best reference books.He discusses at great length(with some good drawings) the construction used in these models.There are many examples of how planking is omitted and there are a few ways to do it so it looks right.If you do not have the book already,I thoroughly recommend it to you,or any one else reading this who is thinking of going down route.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Truly exemplary work on your capstans Karl!
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks so much Sjors and Nigel. 
 
Nigel, I"ve had the book for years, as well, and it's always been a favorite.
 
Bob

Hi,
 
this week I continued on the ornaments. I am quite progressing towards the end of the work on them... Ufff... However still there is enough to finish and improve on this sculpting work. Anyway looking forward to having this done!
 
All the best,
Jan

Thanks very much Ken. Good question as to how much will be visible. My plan is to leave one side of the quarterdeck unplanked. It remains to be seen what the result will be. Either way, it's fun doing the work.
 
The remaining work that I will be doing in that area at this time is now complete. I've made and installed the forward bulkhead partition and the small fore and aft partition for the captain's bed space. The forward partition was done exactly like the previous cabin partition ( boxwood sheet and strip, paneled on both sides). The bed space partition was also done with boxwood sheet and strip, but was done with planking rather than panelling.
 
I also did one other item. I made and installed the bulwark cleats by the various bulwark sheaves. These were done with boxwood strip and were glued and pinned in place. I must admit that I tried a couple of the great looking mass production methods that I've seen here on MSW and failed miserably (my fault -- not the methods). I ended up just making them one at a time with files.
 
I'm waiting for gun carriages from the Lumberyard to begin the remaining gun deck work. I just may turn to the outer stern area for a while.

Or as Intimidating as Krytens 'Double Polaroid'... :mellow:
 
Smoke Me a Klipper.. Oh Never Mind
 
Eamonn

Smashing work Eamonn!!You have got some nice symmetry going on there   You will be on to the 'pretty' planking soon.I am glad the book meets expectations
 
Kind Regards Nigel
 
P.S.Forget Alien,Predator and Terminator,none are as intimidating as Lister's vindaloo curry monster        

Latest Gossip from ENN  (Eamonn News Network )...  Much Sanding Phase 2 is complete with rather satisfying results ( a Very Very smooth hull form) just a smidge of filler required at the stern (where the upward sweep of a plank meets the lower part of the transom) once that hardens I'm onto Mild Sanding Phase 1, there may not even be a Phase 2 here... Which will be a bit of a Result!!
I filled out a section of the Bulwarks up for'ard to allow the Bow Piece to fit in place (you may recall from a while back the problem I had encountered where the 2 Bulwarks meet at the bow, ie no or too small a gap for the Bowsprit & the Bow Piece) hopefully you can see it in the photos.
I also made up the Stand, which is straightforward and not as Gawd Awful looking as I feared (I'm toying with how I will present the boat when finished, she may end up on Blocks representing a slipway, with the angle matching the angle of the keel to keep the deck level! but that is a bit away yet  )
 
Thanks For Checking In Folks
 
Eamonn
 
BTW The Period Ship Handbook pt 2 arrived this morning, WOW they are going to be a brilliant resource, thanks for the recommendation Nigel & Kester, and Dee Dee for the advice on where to get them!! Abebooks are Deadly, and I'd advise all to take a looksee for those hard to find books  (by the way 'Deadly' is an Irishism for Pretty Darn Good!  )
 
Photo Time....
 

Ah Smeg I forgot Rimmer! sorry Ace Rimmer!  One of the classiest shows on TV.. Would you believe I'm re reading the books as we speak!
 
Eamonn