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Jean-Pierre

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About Jean-Pierre

  • Birthday 12/10/1942

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    Male
  • Location
    Belgium

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  1. And "Pirate Pete" has done an amazing job (*) by writing building advice on their models. I downloaded his series on the Derrflinger as the model he built is far better than the original! It is lucky that all the work he put in his writings is not to be lost. (*) I got that expression from some prominent American citizen...
  2. If this is true, then that is the kind of news that makes my day. They were/are among the best.
  3. I am now facing the masts and the rigging. As I have decided to add the vertical belaying pins, I luckily will have some spare belaying points in case I decide to add sails. Indeed a problem arises that I had not thought of: this model is supposed to be rigged only without sail. Now on a real ship, most of the blocks needed to manoeuvre the sails would be present on the various spars and on deck: I shall have to buy some extra stock. The masts themselves needed quite a bit of trimming: the kit proposed mast rake was not correct on the fore and main masts. The upper mast also would not run parallel with the lower mast, due to mast caps that were quite a bit oversize. Everything seems OK so far as can be seen on the pics below. I also submit a picture of my technical advisor Kaly, a cocker lady.
  4. I have listened to the linguistic experts about this ship's name, and decided to rename her more correctly (see pics) By the way, Sergal had placed some ovals in the rear deco of the ship. It can hardly be seen but I framed a few portraits in them. These portraits are taken from the famous 17th century Dutch portrait painter Jacob cats (but the quality of these paintings is admittedly difficult to appreciate here. The landscapes are 17th century landscape paintings of the city of Hoorn.
  5. I am currently working on the masts. Not a small job anyway, as I found it difficult to align them properly. And as I am not a dedicated user of sophisticated machinery, I brought all masts to the right shape with a Stanley cutter blade and abrasive paper: and I dare say they look fine, and sufficiently well aligned. But before I glue the 4 masts on the deck, I did some changes and "improvements" to the deck. First I followed the advice of Marcus, and removed one of the water pumps. Then I glued the anchor cables. I had also made 6 winch bars and mounted 3 of them each side, in the only place still available. Then I had an aesthetic problem with the various pin rails. Some had "shouldered" feet, and others didn't but looked too high (see pics above). The shouldered rail at the mizzen mast received the straight feet of the ones behind the bow, and these, like the ones at the main mast, were shortened by 0,5cm. The pin rail near the bow got shoulders, as most of the lines attached to it would go to the bowsprit. By the way, you can see on one of the following pics a few woodworm holes. These were all made in a couple of hours, an some extensive insect spraying seems to have killed the poor little beasts.
  6. I find it a little difficult to give you precise answers. I gave the model away to my oldest son who lives in Switzerland while I am confined in Belgium, and this model was built in the 1990's
  7. I find it a little difficult to give you precise answers. I gave the model away to my oldest son who lives in Switzerland while I am confined in Belgium, and this model was built in the 1990's. The rear end was thin indeed, I think on the real model no more than 10 to 15 cm judging by the photos. I remember I paid extra attention to the curved piece of mahogany wood (piece from the kit?). The "lip" you mention was not a problem for me, as I intended to paint the hull anyway. By the way the Baron kit had provided mahogany strips for the second planking, which remained in the box and which I still use on occasions, because this was very difficult to smooth down. The deck I painted black, and the planking was made of 2mm wide strips of ...balsa wood. I let a space between the planks to simulate the caulking. I made a few mistakes as well: I induced a very little mast rake which shouldn't be there. As a result, my main sail bulges a little. Then there was the screw, of course. I suppose it was a 2-blade one, but Tabarly may well have been tempted to use a foldable screw. And last, the fore construction (can't find the name: luke?) which I think Artesania represents as a fairly square box, while referring to the pictures I have the fore end should be smaller than the rear one. I'm still not sure. The stanchion could have come with the kit, but then , apart from most blocks, it was all hand made stuff. Oh, I forgot: Pen Duick was only my second wood ship model, and I thought as an idiot that the nails in the kit were meant to nail the planks to the hull. I quickly saw that it is impossible to get a smooth hull with those bloody nails in it. I removed all of them, and I dare say that Pen Duick is my best hull ever. In the meantime I have a grrrrreat collection of small nails! I will certainly love to follow your build log. Happy building!
  8. Hi Marcus, still going strong I see. Listen, I tried to locate on 2 Dutch Forums the flute builds you mention. I downloaded the pics from 2 builders from over 6 years ago on Modelbrouwers? And they were a great inspiration for me, both on things to do and problems to avoid. Could you please give me the links to these builds? Thank you in advance, and go on with the good work!
  9. Just read your comment. The Le Baron kit was a production from the 1980's I think. It was a fairly basic model, and if built straight from the box, it would not have pleased me...as a plastic modeller. So I collected a lot of documents, included a couple of ...calendar sheets, showing many details of the ship, and the model is almost entirely based on this. Almost as soon as my model was finished, Artesania produced their kit, which I assume is a leap forward from the Le Baron kit. There is one obvious thing missing on my model (and I think also from the Artesania kit), and that is the screw. I don't know if the original had a 2-blade screw or a foldable one. Did you know that Tabarly had almost completely rebuilt the original ship, which he had herited from his father. And yes, the new hull is from polyester. DSo when Tabarly tried so sign up for a regatta of old timers, he was refused because of the hull not being the original one. I think I remember the Artesania model is quite a bit larger than this model. I cannot tell exactly, but my model should be about 70 - 80 cm long including jib. Have a good time building this model.
  10. Thanks for your reply, Marcus. Alas, in the meantime, I had built with success, a PAIR of pumps, and I could not resist to glue them on both sides of the mainmast. I suppose that the 2nd pump would also be on the main deck?
  11. Quite a few things have been done, and this log was quite difficult to find. I had to face a number of problems I had never encountered before. First I had (have??) wood worms in my deck. I sprayed the whole ship 2 or 3 times (in- and outside) and look each morning anxiously if i don't notice any new wood dust heaps. Grrr... Then I think I may be happy with my winch. I had previously made a couple of attempts you can see on one of the following pictures: One with a round drum, which i felt i would never succeed to make octogonal and then another attempt was made based on the kit parts, but that soon proved unfitted. I finally used a stick of square stock. The square hole were drilled round and then made square with a suitable nailhead. But then I made the wrong decision to cover it with a coat of matte varnish (old enamel range by Humbrol) and it all turned white. I used various ways to get a darker shade with the available materials, but Luckily, part of it will be covered by the anchor rope. So far with some unexpected problems. On this picture, you will find some of my trials and fails. First the City of Hoorn coat of arms: my first two examples were either uncentered or just too large. Then you have, clockwise, the rejected winch drums and flanges. Then a skylight which I built during my first build seesion, and which I don't remember where to put them. Then, on the left a rather successful attempt at better pumps, next to the kit pump. Then a roof which iss too large to be placed before the fore mast, and above these, two sets of winch bars, the small ones are way too small, and maybe the larger ones are in fact ... a little too large. I have enlarged the pic to show the fairly ridiculous chains provided in the kit: no way for me to make anything solid with those rings. But I have noticed that these chains were (on paintings), much shorter than what the kits suggests you to do. See the end result. I also made the various deck furniture pieces. I tried to make better staircases but failed. These are from the kit Questions to 'specialists ': I wanted my model to have 2 water pumps, 1 each side of the main mast: does that make more sense than just one of them. Problem: I have already built them both, but let authenticity prevail! The majority of flutes pictured on the web do not have mast bands! I want to follow this trend (the easy way?): what do you think. And in this case, the mast probably was a one piece wood piece, probably pine ? Then there would be numerous wood knots visible, no? Here are some pics of her actual status:
  12. Marcus, you are a honest modeller but you should learn to cheat a little: in my opinion it is much easier to use full length planks whenever possible, and afterwards, to indent the joints. Planks will no doubt need some lateral bending on your ship: difficult to get a fluid bend with shot planks with butt joints. Also if you wet the planks, consider that they may shrink when drying, thus opening some joints. On my model, I cut all 4 (or 5?) mm wide planks in 2 lengthwise, which gave a still acceptable plank width, and I used an Amati plank bender to give the dry planks their intricate shape. Adding the joints is then a very simple task: the planks will of course fit perfectly. Happy modelling Jean-Pierre
  13. I did some more work on the winch to hopefully make it look a little more civilized and finally glued it in place. It is good from far (away), but far from good, I am afraid. Anyway it is a large improvement on the kit winch.
  14. Thank you for your kind comments. Jan, you are right about this kit's winch. It makes no sense. It should be said that this kit seems more aimed as a decoration item than as a historic replica and as such, she is beautiful. Still, for me, the model was interesting just because of the possibilities for improvement. About the winch, here are 2 underwater pics of a flute's winch. Difficult to discern if they were taken backwards from the bow or otherwise. Anyway, after many clumsy trials with a piece of round dowel, then with the kit pieces, I finally used a square dowel that I made more or less octogonal I would have made the winch from side to side, but then I would have had problems with the access to the forecastle, PLUS I still want to build a ship's boat and therefore need the winch to be as close as possible to the forecastle to have enough place for it. Another question: I have seen on various models of Dutch ships a vertical pin rail along the mast, with 2 to 3 pins and a pulley there under. Should this replace the classic horizontal pin rail before each mast? See picture from the ship wreck.

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