NMBROOK

Fabulous Alexander    A truly beautiful piece of carving!You must have taken extreme care to avoid anything breaking off,particularly the claws that run against the grain.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Wonderful to see the stages involved Alexander.Very clever recovery with the shield,no one would know if you hadn't said anything.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Your Lion is wonderful Alexander    I am sure I speak for many when I say yes,pictures of the work in progress please.Thank you for sharing your marvelous talent with us.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Stunning work Bob!!!I agree with Patrick,your log will become a point of reference for future builders of this kit who want to take their build a stage further       .
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
Well I am partially “confused”. Returning to the bowsprit area, for my first attempts at securing the deadeye ropes, and then actually starting the ratlines.
THEN - JanV was right – way back – when he posted, “how will you remember where all of those pre- attached bowsprit mast ropes are supposed to go”?
Now working from the Vasa museum rigging sheet, the Billings sheet, and the Corel -no sails - sheet just don’t know what I’m doing right or wrong ha ha ..
AND Fred Hocker recently posted that the Vasa Museum rigging plan sheet is wrong and is no longer being sold. The Vasa II book will have the correct rigging plans within – a book that is already two years beyond its promised publication date L
 
Updated pics. Need to add a fid for the flagpole? Probably.

 
As a novice, I thought that pre-attaching the blocks and lines would be easier before securing the mast to the bow.
That said I am actually moving forward – now that part is satisfying.
I did finish the upper main platform and added the rat lines (crosstree blocks are missing – I just realized as well) well at least those will be easy.
 

Finished the mainmast upper platform, and discovered that several blocks are also missing at the already installed crosstree for the lower main platform– grrr
These learning experiences are actually valuable as often as I include -grrrr - in my remarks, The next build will benefit from these learning experiences.
 
Cheers mates,
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the likes much appreciated.
 
Tigersteve thanks for your kind words.
 
Dave We shall see – thanks – I am enjoying the learning of how these ships were made to function – sort of “state of the art” technology of their days. Which as ours does today changes as more is learned.
 
Parenthetically, we are certainly, today, spoiled by comparison. When I was working and having to cross the Atlantic from LAX to LHR in a 747 at 36,000 feet. Champagne in hand CD player [yes CD player J] and Sony headphones around my ears, looking down at the ocean –it struck me that C Columbus in his wildest magic mushroom dreams could NEVER imagine  - ever – this reality of a crossing.
 
The joke is now, of course – that in a 100 years from now travellers will look at antique digital flashes of history and laugh about people having to spend 16 hours, packed with 450 others in an Airbus A380 just to get to Australia ha ha ……
 
My father was in the airline business for most of his life – I followed and worked as a pilot for quite a few years. (Champagne was when I was just sitting doing nothing)
 
==============================
 
 
Back to business: I’m sure that I’m “preaching to the choir” here, but wanted to share some techniques that you prob. are already using – but here goes.
 
1) For threading deadeyes (or any rope for that matter) I first use Gorilla Gel, and run a bead at one of the ends of a rope. Then as I clean off the excess glue (thumb and forefinger with a cloth), I twist the rope ends tighter into their turns - as I’m pulling the rope through the cloth. 
 
This results in a hard “needle like” - tip after the glue dries. Then nip the ends to create a thinner entry point making threading deadeyes much easier. It also allows using ropes that are larger and possibly more to scale.
 
The big eye needle (I have not tried) it would seem would require a thinner scale rope because as you pull the needle out the inserted line then doubles over as it is pulled through the deadeye –??
 

 
To secure the deadeye ropes
 
First I insert (in this case) a thread between the doubled tied shroud, looping it twice. Then, twice wrap the deadeye rope around its shroud; hold it in place, and securing it with a bit of G-S Hypo Cement. Let it set then. The last bit is then very simple just run the left over rope through the two thread spools, tighten and nip.
 

 
OOPS mistake – should have done this work for the mizenmast before securing it to the ship. Hmmm grrr - Still learning protocols.
 

 
Learned that not all deadeyes are created equally. In the future need to look through more carefully making sure that eyelets are more equally spaced before attaching to shrouds. Yes I did finally realize that rotating them does help.
 
Also the upper mast rigging work is easily done at the bench – I have not yet tried working with the other shrouds already on the ship Hmmm?
 
OH !!! Ferit, as I have mentioned before you are the one that introduced me to G-S Hypo Cement SO perfect. Thanks again.
 
Apologize about the long opening personal notes in this post J
 
 
Cheers,

Hola Michael:
I find this picture of the Wasa Museum, and regarding the upper yard hailing rope you are right. If you make a zoom on the picture you can see (unfortunately not very clearly) a sheave for the hailing rope.
 

 
Saludos, Karl
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
First thanks for dropping by and the likes. AND
 
Lawrence, I just don’t know how to respond. Your post is well so touching indeed. I am so pleased that you have found this build a pleasure to follow – however slowly it has evolved.
 
Your words are so encouraging; we have all seen builds that make our jaws drop here at MSW. For you to place some of my work on that level, well it’s touching indeed. BIG thanks.
 
PS: I think, by-the-way that you finished your entirely awesome HMS Victory in the time that it took me just to make the crows nests (;-)
 
===============================
 
Minor update on upper foremast;
 
Mistake;
Deadeyes were way too large for the upper platform. I learned through a posting that deadeyes should be about half the width of a corresponding mast. That (in scale) is almost impossible to do – that said my use of the same size deadeyes as with the lower shrouds was all wrong; lack of foresight.
 
So pulled them out, had to make up some smaller chainplates. Used wire that was then joined together with CA Gel glue, and painted flat black. Not correct – but such a minor area that will become lost in the aggregate.  So fixed that.
 

 
Then Karl was helpful and led me in the right direction regarding the upper yard hailing rope bit. I took it a step further and decided (right or wrong) to add a sheave within the upper mast. I assumed (there’s that word again) that a sheave was probably how it was done. Though Anderson does not make that specific detail clear (I might have missed that text?)
 
  
 
Foremast all done now onto putting the upper main bits together THEN attaching the two other uppers at once.
 

Getting a bit nervous regarding that swing-arm light. In a nightmare to be I was thinking of hanging a large double fluorescent fixture with chains from the ceiling of my son’s room.
 
 He’s no longer on my payroll !!J , and I use a corner of that room as my shipyard. Notice the nightmare idea. The admiral would force me to walk the plank for sure.
 
PS: Not complaining lucky to have the space, I know that some builders need to move their work after each session, but lighting needs to be re-visited. Bowsprit and upper fore just for this photo - not installed.
 

Karl,
 
Thanks again! yes I think that this would be the easiest to do
I will add two blocks below the fore and main upper platforms, then just drill a hole near the tops of the fore and main upper masts.
There should be a sheave also inserted - don't think so - already too much to think about. - All of this rigging is very new to me, especially if I add sails. I am, however enjoying the learning--AND the help
 
Muy amable de tu parte para ayudar de nuevo (:-)
 
PS: Going to Colombia in a couple of weeks need to practice my Spanish 
 
Cheers
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
Need your kind advice, if you don’t mind.
 
As work continues on putting together the upper masts for all three masts, I realize that I did not think about (nor understand) what method should be correctly used for hailing the mid and upper yards.
 
I went to Anderson, but it still left me a bit confused.
 
Putting ropes over the cap does not appear in any Vasa model that I have seen including the 1/10th (but I have NO good pics of that area) And I assume that grooves would be needed in the caps?
 
PS: All lower yards for all three masts have pulleys cut into each mast – so that is easy enough (pulley may be the wrong term). That part I understand.
 
  
 
Then I thought that I would add a second ring under the caps, but then it seems that those are actually used for hoisting topmasts. Makes great sense, but then why need the fid??
 

 
That leaves two other options;
 
Drill another hole in the upper masts adding a pulley within – I think that I’m too far gone for that option
 
Or add two more blocks under each of the platforms to use to hail the yards. 
 
Last pic is obviously a complex and prob. 18th century vintage
 
The two extra blocks under each platform could be the easiest to do.
Any thoughts will be appreciated indeed.
 

 

Capt. Steve, thanks for that tip - will use it when I get to the main caps. Thanks for your nice thought as well.
 
Karl, I also need to thank you a second time. You were so kind to send me jpg's, in sections, from your master Billings rigging sheet. These have been SO HELPFUL - so appreciated. Thanks again.
 
PS: When I get to the sails I will have to spend a lot of time looking through your's and Frank's build log again (:-)
 

Hi Mates,
Working on the mid-foremast installation - how I fashion the mast cap release pins;
====================
1) Using a small brass nail squeeze its head with standard size pliers.
 
2) Using a rotary tool smoothen (a bit) the now flattened head – top and bottom only
 
3) Drill a hole through the flattened head first measuring the drill bit so as to have it conform to the other nail that will serve as the vertical locking pin.
 
PS: the attrition rate tends to be high with this step –it’s hard to align the drill bit so that it remains centered and drills the hole where you want it to be on the flattened nail head (doing it without a drill press)
 
3) Then with a rotary tool flatten the sides to square off its look.
 
4) Now flatten the head of the other smaller nails
 
4) Blacken all the parts with Black Brass Metal Finish.
            Over time I do not think that black hobby paint will
            Stay adhered and may flake off (IMO) only.
 
5) I found that the tiny vertical lock pins tend to slide too low.
            So I use a super small smudge of CA as I insert the pins
            Holding the pin where I want it to remain.
 
6) Cut off the too long vertical pin ends
 
PS: Thanks mates for the help with the mast fid bits. I’m happy to have learned this detail. J
I think that it was Peter Jensen – I need to go back through to check your kind advice…
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the likes as well as just dropping by.
 
EJ – thanks – yes being “creative” occasionally helps out. I do, however, stay too bogged down with redundant minutia IMHO J
My next post will actually be a real move forward.
 
Martyn – Thanks as always for your kind encouragement.
 
Karl – Thanks for your nice words, regarding the painting I use several diff. brushes (see pics)  For paint I use various colors from Humbrol, Testors Model Master, Tamiya, and Floquil Railroad Colors. These paints were used for all gilded bits from stern to bow. 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Happy New Year to all of you here at MSW J
And thank you Micke R for your interest in following along. Welcome aboard indeed.
 
So the New Year’s first shipyard “tweak” had to do with the bowsprit. After finishing up the galleries I moved to the fore area to finish tying up the foremast shroud deadeye ropes then, of course, thought hmmm.
 
So decided to first update some of that bowsprit previously completed area. As the bow area looked
 

 
Looked at a photo of the 1:1 and noticed this bit of left out detail. Then thought that I might as well also add the extra bits/paint that I had just completed at the stern area.
 

 
Used these rings as well as those left-over canon door hinges
And added an extra touch with these two great white markers.
 

 
Here are some updated shots of the extra details. I’m not sure about those little flattened hinges yet. May pull them and try to do something in wood instead, but I have absolutely NO idea how to carve details.
 
And last pic: (Added the white marker highlights to the gallery trim as well).
 
PS: The pillows were in case the Proxxon vice lost its suction allowing the ship to keel over. It happened to me once before. I have since learned that the Proxxon suction pad is actually very stable but it MUST be on a surface that has absolutely no pores (hence the piece of glass) and the pillow insurance, the first time I cranked the suction cup directly to that little white table in the photo and the ship fell over after about ten minutes. That resulted in a broken main mast lower top.
 
Cheers,
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the likes, and thank you LMDAVE29 for being kind enough to want to follow along. Welcome aboard this very slow build…
 
Evolution of Corel Vasa galleries (Evolution because this area is now part of three years of on-and-off intermittent changes, and additions – finally - Done)
 
As it turns out got “side-tracked” again trying to add further details to the kit’s galleries (to be a bit more representative of the actual ship) after looking at the 1/10th TOO many times, and feeling bouts of frustration. So as I was (moving forward) attaching the mizzen shrouds, it mentally clicked that I could “play” with the galleries again just a bit more.
 
First, if you don’t mind, some changing looks of these for me “troubling galleries”; then the final finish.
 
First pic is out-of-the-box kit build per Corel’s official photo.
 
The next two are from a brilliant example of a right out of the box Euro commercial builder’s work. And he added sails J  - Posted only for comparisons to the kit provided bits…. Kudos to this builder’s excellent work.
 
 

 
What Corel supplied in the kit for, and my earliest attempt at adding initial extra details to the galleries (decided to initially scratch built in any case)
 
 

 
Early attempt at painting the very poorly represented guilded figures that Corel supplies in this kit.
 

 
That just did not suit - IMHO. So tried to instead “antique” paint the figures, and then also added a basswood border relief along the lower platforms of both galleries.
Though I am very happy with the many other guilded pieces that Corel included, and enjoyed painting those as they appear today.  
 
 

 
Added the circular opening in the forward bobbinets along with a basic wood trim ring. At that point I left this area alone thinking that I was done.
 

Revisited the area by adding painted white extra vertical bits, and those green decorative pieces on the bobbinets (sourced from a necklace at Michael’s art Supplies)
 

Added small basswood lower horizontal trim pieces as well to the lower bobbinets. And removed their forward wood rings adding decorative guilded pieces instead– same as those provided in the kit for weather deck cannon openings
 
(PS: Corel has ALWAYS been very kind in sending me any requested extra parts)
 
 

 
That was when I thought that I was (again) done “obsessing” over this area. Then another thought crossed my mind; decided to use anchor chain links, kit included lion heads and cannon door hinges to finally finish off this area’s detailing.
 
I kept referring back to photos of the 1/10th gallery details for help  --
 

 
So final solution –
Painted the chain link centers with green paint as well as the canon door hinge centers. Then added the two lion heads per side.
 
some pics of the finished efforts – I WILL leave this area alone now – I promised myself- Though the very last pic  - Still makes me nervous – ha ha
 
Cheers,
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
 
Finally installed the mizenmast. As I had previously noted I was going to add bracing pins to mizzen pulley housings.
Have been using this black nylon fishing line with great success for details such as this.
 

 
 
Thought it best to attach upper shrouds - off ship. Seemed much easier using the vice. Won’t have that option with main and foremast Hmmm.
 

 
Lower shrouds - I found easy to do
 
 

 
Added a rope wrap at lower mizzenmast. Also satisfied that I pulled out and rebuilt the deck bracing for that mast. My first effort was weak.
 

 
A few more general shots
 

 
Now onto the upper main, and upper fore bits, at least those parts have been built, and were patiently waiting in line. 
 

 
This might take me through the Summer 017 ha ha. Then I’ll go back and tightly secure all shroud tensions as well as wrapping deadeye ropes for all three masts.
 
Cheers
 

Thank you very much FMartin Not much going on this end in the way of model building,work is ballistic at the moment and looks like being that way for several months.
I didn't find anything other than the museum model and kits plans so there are numerous examples of 'artistic license' in my build.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Keith Yes,I feel the costs are well worth it.I am prepared to have to order 'as and when required' to help me overcome this hurdle.That is another reason why Royal William is a slow long term build.No way could I afford to invest in a bundle of timber for the whole project as this will run into a substantial three figure sum.
I think we are both of the same mindset with Ebony,overcoming the challenges of working with this wood is as rewarding as the final result.
All the best with your grating production and your new toys,I had many years in this hobby with no power tools,but the toys just speed things up so much and help no end with consistency
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks a lot anyway! It is such a beautiful ship, I'd really like to build one like yours... but in a smaller scale (like, 25cm hull)... I'll be following your log! Keep up the good work!

Thank you very much FMartin Not much going on this end in the way of model building,work is ballistic at the moment and looks like being that way for several months.
I didn't find anything other than the museum model and kits plans so there are numerous examples of 'artistic license' in my build.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
 
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Nigel
 
The upper character is now complete(well apart from the great lump of boxwood to be cut off later )
 
I have now started on roughing out the lower one.This one is crouched down with hands together
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much Don and Jason
 
The reason I chose epoxy in this instance Jason is two fold.Firstly,I couldn't guarantee a perfect fit to the inside of the planking.The epoxy fills gaps whereas pva does not.Secondly,epoxy sticks to ebony better than pva and I needed this joint to be as strong as possible.
 
Ok,I have now started work on the decorative figures that run between the windows.These are to be carved out of boxwood(yes I know,I can see where this is heading   )I could cast them,but they are all different due to the angles involved.I am trying to mirror what is illustrated on the kit castings.
This is the start of the first piece.It comprises of two figures on top of one another.I have started with the top one as I want the feet to fall on the rail below the windows.This is very much in the roughing stage.Weight loss,breast reduction,then detailing are on the menu
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have framed the doors in Ebony using a machined angle profile.They have been given a coat of poly.I am varnishing as I go as,if nothing else,it protects the boxwood from Ebony dust which can mark the boxwood and requires sanding to remove.
 
I have fitted four of the gallows?brackets under the balcony.There are two more still to fit at the transom sides.These will be shaped later as it is much easier to make sure the compound shapes line through.
 
The rear of the doors have been shaped where they fit to the existing planking.These have been epoxied into position.The upper section will be faired later before the planking continues upwards.
 
There is a dubious sheen to the matt poly at the moment.A later coat sprayed on will kill this and produce an even finish
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel