NMBROOK

Thank you Joe, I like that you like 
I'll keep uploading pictures..
Cheers!
 
I have not treated the thread with anything. The Amati thread is so good and almost with any fluff. No comparison with oCcre thread.
Best regards

Simply outstanding Matti!!I see the snow has arrived.I can't keep up,you have changed your avatar for one even more menacing,and Ferit has changed his username for an astronomy inspired one  
Kind Regards Nigel

Different stages in the rigging... you can see the stays, the mouses, the ratlines, the different collars served and the crowsfeet of the tops...For the rigging I followed the Petterson.
I'm gonna to upload these pictures in high resolution so you can appreciate better the details. They look better in large!
Enjoy!
 
Best regards!

Thank you guys!
More pictures...time to fore shrouds and dead eyes...
Note: you can see the serving in the first pair of shrouds. Enjoy!

Hi Michael
I have done a little digging.It seems your cannons are available as a corel fitting but also they do a virtually identical cannon with wooden carriage.As to which they currently supply with the kit,is anybodies guess.It would work out rather expensive to replace all the carriages.Scratchbuilding would be a better option.I include a link showing the two different corel products as a matter of interest.
 
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/corel-weaponary.html
 
Kind Regards Nigel

To Vince and others who may build a Euromodel kit.
I have started on many of the Euromodel kits (as I have said before as a voluntary, non-financial and fun thing, run their Helpdesk from South Australia and so I have to keep darting from ship build to ship build to answer questions) but am currently working on the Friederich Wilhelm zu Pferde which is a German frigate. By the way, have a look at their web site under Customer assistance to see what I have written.
 
Here is a point to keep in mind when building any of their kits. Most kits are a two plank system - first plank and then a second plank. Euromodel kits are very detailed and the bulwarks above deck tend to be thicker than the first plank plus an inner and outer layer of second plank so on the Friedrich I used a double first planking followed by the inner and outer second planking. The resulting thickness gives a far better appearance, is sturdier (less inclined to warp) and much easier to work with. This is not to suggest that the thinner planking is unsuitable but just that if you go to a little extra trouble, the result can be so much better. That is the very essence of their kits - there is just so much of your own thing you can put into their builds.
 
To Vince in particular - you could easily follow this variation with the RW build.
 
To somebody else (could not find the posting), Euromodel do supply cloth for the sails with excellent drawings as well.
 
Pete

I'm going to upload this step by step as fast as I can, but remember...I have a lot of pic of the progress so, be patient my friends 
Cheers,
 
Ricardo.

Pics from decks. I didn't like the timbers at first, you know timbers are the same in the kits, but today I realize that they were not as bad as they seemed... is the advantage to rewrite the thread, you can see things that in his day was all complaints...
 
Moreover, the bulkheads that make the cabins are lined and metal parts that brings the kit were discarded by others made from wood to form doors and windows ... the crystals are made of acetate and aged with bitumen of Judea.
Regarding covers itself, are caulked with a stick of graphite, one must be very careful because it prepares a "chocolate milk" to just that one is neglected. Anyway, by that time, I was quite clumsy but a friend recommended me sanding the deck and I could fix it. 

Eventually, and after a long look, there was something that did not quite convince me and was like tapes ended in the stern, so I decided to paint it black from the waterline up including the two cannons and add gold details. .. I must say that almost all the golden details in the stern as the balustrade are made entirely with gold leaf, and then aged ... It's my technique, and I like it more than to paint in gold. Certainly takes longer but gives it a finish that I particularly love... I also finished the curtains and lanterns.
   

More pictures...Enjoy!
 

More advances...
 

Stern and first tests of artillery... Curtains added to the gallery and added a third barrel in the forecastle and also testing the bulwarks.
 

After a lot of months without uploading any pics, I have decided to continue with the process. From now you can see a lot of photos until finish. The bow has been modified using brass wire and finally fixed keel and stern to the hull. I applied two coats of shellac. You can see some fine details in the bow doors.
Kind regards, and happy new year.
 
Ricardo.
 

More advances...
The hull is almost finished. Bulwarks and coys in place more or less about 280 coys.  The bowsprit also in place and the small boat is in the pit.
Enjoy!
 

Masts and components. After completing the hull and stern is time for the masting and rigging. I carved the fist into a round shape. These pics represent the foremast and main mast in the lower section and their lower mast trestle trees. For the mast heads I used the disc saw. All painted in acrylics Naples Yellow and Smoke Black
 

Some details in decks as the ladders and guns...I began the rigging. I replaced all other thread of the kit by another from amati without any fluff.
 

Andy - appreciate the observation, I had tried what you describe before taking the photo, but it just didn't look right.  Turns out, I had the stay going under the wrong cross tree arm.  All corrected now and sits a treat on the crosstree
 
BE, John, Jim and the 'likes' - thanks as always
 
Main Stay and Preventer Stay collars
 
Started tackling the main and preventer stay collars while waiting for some line to stretch out for the main mast shrouds, (still don't feel I have the shroud thing figured out just yet, but its early days...).  After a bit of a break in the shipyard, these took a full day to complete.  The instructions indicate that the collars should be lashed under the bowsprit through some eyes, but I decided to take the approach outlined in Lever for these.  Unfortunately, because the gammoning is in place, a lot of fiddly steps needed to be done on the ship.
 
As anyone who's done any serving knows, and I'm rapidly learning, is that the process requires you to know the correct length of line you need to serve because 'trimming a bit off' isn't an option.  Here's the first step figuring out the length of served line I'll need.  Marker pen on similarly sized natural line.

 
Detail of the final collar as per Lever

 
Main stay collar in place...

 
...and preventer stay.  I had added the cleats onto the bowsprit before mounting, and commented at the time that the plans were inconsistent.  Luckily the collars seem to sit nicely where intended

 
 
 
 

Hi Bob
For future reference,I pinched an idea from Dafi on his Victory build.If you drill a hole in the end of a BBQ skewer and glue the drill bit into this.You can feed this through the gunport on the opposite side to the bulwark you are drilling.I have found it much kinder to drillbits and miles easier than using a pin vise in the restricted space.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Michael
I have done a little digging.It seems your cannons are available as a corel fitting but also they do a virtually identical cannon with wooden carriage.As to which they currently supply with the kit,is anybodies guess.It would work out rather expensive to replace all the carriages.Scratchbuilding would be a better option.I include a link showing the two different corel products as a matter of interest.
 
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/corel-weaponary.html
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Ferit raises a good point.Those carriages are a disappointment to say the least.I am sure I have seen this model built with wooden carriages and I am 80% sure they were kit parts.Do you have a year of manufacture Michael?
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Bob
For future reference,I pinched an idea from Dafi on his Victory build.If you drill a hole in the end of a BBQ skewer and glue the drill bit into this.You can feed this through the gunport on the opposite side to the bulwark you are drilling.I have found it much kinder to drillbits and miles easier than using a pin vise in the restricted space.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Michael,
It should be very interesting and pleasant to see a ship which is my hope for my next built.
As Nigel said, the gun carriages are unbelievable for Corel's flagship. Could the annoying parts like them be replaced with corrected/adjusted ones in the kits recently produced with new technology? Has someone any idea?!

Excellent work Dan.I applaud the way in which you have exercised restraint and done the minimum to bring her current state.The thing to remember is the great sentimental value that the model must carry and completely rebuilding it would mean it was no longer really the model that you started with(coupled with the fact it would be a massive amount of time for yourself).
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I won't be finished for a while yet , but here's a couple of pics of the "current state of play". I'll do a full set of progress pics when I get home next week - it's too hard to do with the laptop I'm using at the moment.
 

 

 

 
Craigb - sure, the old guy had a go to the best of his abilities on a very poor kit. The more I read the "destructions" the more I realise why he did it the way he did - they even confuse ME .
 
If he'd have been on MSW from the start we'd have helped him through and I'd have had a much easier task now. Or we'd have talked him out of attempting the kit in the first place and gone with something a lot easier which he probably would have finished before he passed away.
 
  Danny

Thanks Nigel. Such a simple and sensible idea.
 
Thanks Augie. I can't wait to see it either, since I'm trying something different.
 
Bob