bdgiantman2

Thank you gentlemen for your kind comments. Here are the pictures as requested, Tarbrush. I felt so close to finally being able to have the stern transom installed when realized the mistake. But as they say, better to catch early than to catch too late. Before I glued the deadwood in the other day, a piece of the tip broke off, which thankfully in ways goes well with the stern installation, but still need a tiny piece that broke off that you might see in the pics.

Thank you gentlemen for your kind comments. Here are the pictures as requested, Tarbrush. I felt so close to finally being able to have the stern transom installed when realized the mistake. But as they say, better to catch early than to catch too late. Before I glued the deadwood in the other day, a piece of the tip broke off, which thankfully in ways goes well with the stern installation, but still need a tiny piece that broke off that you might see in the pics.

So as promised I am posting some pictures for you all to see of my progress. Using the examples of Bernard Frolich, I attempted to make the same posts he shows in his book The Art of Ship Modeling, and they were literally a royal pain to screw down onto the building board. Also enclosed is a close up of the dead-board under construction, and the stern plates with the first of the sections for the false cannon ports.

So as promised I am posting some pictures for you all to see of my progress. Using the examples of Bernard Frolich, I attempted to make the same posts he shows in his book The Art of Ship Modeling, and they were literally a royal pain to screw down onto the building board. Also enclosed is a close up of the dead-board under construction, and the stern plates with the first of the sections for the false cannon ports.

So I decided to attempt making my first POF model using plans by Mamoli of Yacht Mary. Enlarged the plans to double the size, so nearly 3/8 scale. I am making this model out of bass wood. So far I have the keel made and am now working on hull frames. Pics enclosed.
 
Brian Davies

So as promised I am posting some pictures for you all to see of my progress. Using the examples of Bernard Frolich, I attempted to make the same posts he shows in his book The Art of Ship Modeling, and they were literally a royal pain to screw down onto the building board. Also enclosed is a close up of the dead-board under construction, and the stern plates with the first of the sections for the false cannon ports.

So as promised I am posting some pictures for you all to see of my progress. Using the examples of Bernard Frolich, I attempted to make the same posts he shows in his book The Art of Ship Modeling, and they were literally a royal pain to screw down onto the building board. Also enclosed is a close up of the dead-board under construction, and the stern plates with the first of the sections for the false cannon ports.

Hi Piet, your smack is looking great! When I was making the trail boards on my model, I cut out the boards to the proper size then pencil drew on the scrolls they show on the blueprints included with the kit. When the drawings came out satisfactory enough, I took my dremel to make a hole in one small place in the carvings, like the middle or something. Then found a loose wire blade for a Craftsman scroll saw and manually cut out the details. For my first time trying that I think it turned out decent. Once the details had been properly cut, I painted the pieces black and used a heat bender to help give the pieces their proper curvature.  Hope this helps you.
 
Brian

Hi Piet, your smack is looking great! When I was making the trail boards on my model, I cut out the boards to the proper size then pencil drew on the scrolls they show on the blueprints included with the kit. When the drawings came out satisfactory enough, I took my dremel to make a hole in one small place in the carvings, like the middle or something. Then found a loose wire blade for a Craftsman scroll saw and manually cut out the details. For my first time trying that I think it turned out decent. Once the details had been properly cut, I painted the pieces black and used a heat bender to help give the pieces their proper curvature.  Hope this helps you.
 
Brian

Well, it's been a few days but I was not sitting on my hands.  Had to do other things that took priority over model building.  Yes, there are a few more important things - - - when the Admiral suggests that something REALLY needs taken care of - - - 
 
In any case, I painted the trim work green and put some poly on the decks.  Looking okay but the trim needs some touching up.  That'll be an ongoing thing with me I'm afraid.  I keep seeing things that could be just a tad better.
 
While the paint was drying I started making the cabin door hinges from 0.1 mm brass shim, 1 mm brass tube with 0.5 mm brass rod for the hinge pins.  All very fiddling work but it went off like clock work, no problems.
 
Next came the job cementing these little parts to the doors and then the frame parts to the door frames.  First I cemented the door parts to the doors with CA. Okay, now to cement the frame parts.  I taped booth doors together front and back with masking tape and then set them int the door opening.  As the pics show I also secured the doors to the bulkhead.  Hey, my mommy didn't raise a dummy 
 
I then clamped the model into my small Proxxon vice by the cutwater so she stands bow down.  This way the door bulkhead is now horizontal.  The small fame parts could now be placed on the frames and slid into the hinge pins.  So far so good.  A little touch of CA and holding them tight against the frames till te CA had done its grasping job and presto, job done.
 
Now I had to give it the hingeing test and wouldn't you know it, one of the tubes was not soldered on correctly.  So, that one had to be redone and reinstalled.  No problem, just another 15 minutes and it was back on.
 
The only problem is that the doors won't open all the way when the fish bin hatches are on.  They'll just have to squeeze through a narrower opening, sorry guys     
 
I could now finish with paint touch-up on the door bulkhead.  I'll have Gwen, the Admiral, look at it tomorrow and let me know where else I need to touch-up.  
 
If the paint job is satisfactory then I can start with putting the bowsprit on and rigging that.  Then the mast and rigging it.  Hmmm, we are slowly getting there.  The sails will be a challenge for me 
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the three parts that make up the door parts for the hinge.  A similar setup applies for the frame parts, except that I made them smaller as shown in the next picture.
 

This shows the completed door hinge assembly.  
 

This shows how I jigged the doors so I can cement the frame ends to the frames.  Sorry, I didn't take a pic with the boat bow down in the vice but it worked like a charm.
 

This is another shot of jigging the doors.
 

This shows the completion of the door hinge installation.  I think it looks a little better then the paper hinges I had on previously.  This is taken before I repainted the bulkhead.   
 

This is how my little sloop looks like as of today.
 
Cheers,

I finally have the ability to post pics on here. This is a photo of my lobster smack that I took last March, rigging was still a work in progress. This ship model I modified after a smack at my local Maritime Museum here in San Diego.

I finally have the ability to post pics on here. This is a photo of my lobster smack that I took last March, rigging was still a work in progress. This ship model I modified after a smack at my local Maritime Museum here in San Diego.

I finally have the ability to post pics on here. This is a photo of my lobster smack that I took last March, rigging was still a work in progress. This ship model I modified after a smack at my local Maritime Museum here in San Diego.

I finally have the ability to post pics on here. This is a photo of my lobster smack that I took last March, rigging was still a work in progress. This ship model I modified after a smack at my local Maritime Museum here in San Diego.

Some time ago, intrigued by the new monograph by Delacroix I ordered a copy of this Corvette
 

 
I started to study a little the plans and I want to try to build it.
I decided, before setting up his yard, to work to  one of the most difficult to escape unscathed (at least for me) in carpentry construction: the oarlocks hawse.
The basic idea is to build the hull in pear and the topsides above the waterline, ebony for the stem and stern.
 
The first step was to build the first rib:
 

 

 

 
To get the right angle for different oarlocks I helped with an iPhone app that acts as inclinometer with whom I adjusted the angle of the grip in which I placed a swivel base for processing the milling machine

 

 
To avoid damaging the stem during the processing of the oarlocks, I built a wheel that will be provisionally removed when will I get the two "shells".

 

Looks great, sir. Just out of curiosity, where did you get the hinge pieces for your rudder? I want to try making my second model of this boat with a working rudder.

Piet and Russ, thanks for the information and the pics. I did the same thing on my Lobster Smack putting the "lockers" under the cockpit seats. Didn't think that a little boat like this would have bunks considering usually did short hauls, but interesting to learn about the cooking being done on deck. This model is coming along very nicely. Keep it up.

Piet and Russ, thanks for the information and the pics. I did the same thing on my Lobster Smack putting the "lockers" under the cockpit seats. Didn't think that a little boat like this would have bunks considering usually did short hauls, but interesting to learn about the cooking being done on deck. This model is coming along very nicely. Keep it up.

So as promised I am posting some pictures for you all to see of my progress. Using the examples of Bernard Frolich, I attempted to make the same posts he shows in his book The Art of Ship Modeling, and they were literally a royal pain to screw down onto the building board. Also enclosed is a close up of the dead-board under construction, and the stern plates with the first of the sections for the false cannon ports.

Your model is coming along very nicely and you are doing a great job. Maybe I should see about donating my first model of the Lobster Smack to the same charity, although yours looks way more realistic.

Hello friends. I had to take a break from Yacht Mary to focus on school and my job, as well as overcome some technical issues. Now that school is out and most of the technical issues have been resolved, I am back to working on the model. So I am currently working on the stern plates.. Am making the false cannon openings that are on either side of the rudder, complete with metal bars. Have to remake the strips for the door frames, messed those up. Also will be attempting soon the two inner most frames that make up the pavilion on Mary. Pics will be coming soon.

Finally learned the answer to my own question! An Allen wrench has to be jammed into a small hole on the shaft which then allows the current head to be replaced by any other you want from the collection
 
Glad to know another new skill 

Finally learned the answer to my own question! An Allen wrench has to be jammed into a small hole on the shaft which then allows the current head to be replaced by any other you want from the collection
 
Glad to know another new skill 

Piet,  
My first MBLS was a minor bash - All of the photos from this build went 'missing', I'm working on adding these back.  One photo is the drawing from Chapelle's book which should help.    
My second MBLS was a major bash - the final model contains only 6 parts from the kit and all of them were altered (2nd + 3rd bulkhead, transom, two cockpit combings and the cut water). This build has a working rudder, centerboard, fish wells, hatch opening, full cabin, floor boards in the cockpit and cabin, mast step, port side bunk and is single planked in walnut.  I've added back most of these photos, should have all added back soon.
 
The links to these builds are in my signature.     
 
Dee Dee
 
 

I like your CAD drawings. Those would be really cool if going to completely scratch-build that little boat. 
 
On my second Smack, I am going to be replacing all the balsa siding with basswood. Plan to also make the storage containers again under the cockpit seats. Can't wait to see how this kit comes along.