bdgiantman2

Thanks to everyone for the likes and comments.
 
Keith, we had a great Christmas. Seven great grandkids from 1 year to 14 years, and none was sick!
 
I am finishing up the smoke stack. I made the conical cap for the boiler vent from a brass rod, turning it on my hand drill.
 
The hinges for the diesel exhaust pipe caps were made from 0.010 inch (0.25 mm) styrene strips. First the lower pieces were glued to the brass pipes with CA gel. After the CA set the two hinge strips were glued to the lower piece with plastic model cement. I used a bit of clear acrylic sealer to "glue" the styrene hinge strips to the top of the cap. It probably isn't the most robust assembly, but they are protected by the stack cap.
 
I painted it with the grey paint I am using for the decks. It is Tamiya XF-63 German Grey. I have found that the Tamiya paints do not cover well on brass. This was all washed with water to remove the liquid flux, and then acetone to remove any resin flux and oils. There are three coats of paint on this assembly, each allowed to dry over night, and still there are places the paint just "rolls back" leaving exposed brass.
 
The platform jutting from the side of the stack is a support for a radio antenna. I suppose I could have glued it in place with CA, but the solder will make a stronger attachment. Now I need to make the complex insulators for this antenna and two more. I have the Navy electronics data sheets for the antennas and some photos taken on the ships to show me what they look like and how large they are. It will be an interesting project. But the antennas will be some of the last pieces to go onto the model.
 
The last part of the stack assembly is the life jacket locker that was attached to the lower rear of the stack below the air intake grills. The box is a bit wider than long (about 32" wide x 31" long x 26" high full scale). I folded the box from a single piece of 0.005 inch (0.13 mm) brass sheet and then soldered the edges. A separate 0.010 inch (0.25 mm) thick top plate was soldered on - this hides the folded edges that were a bit rounded. A 0.010 inch brass wire serves as the handle that released the bottom of the locker to dump the life jackets.
 
 

 

 
Here are some photos of the stack in place on the aft end of the O1 level.
 

 

 
Now I need to prime the funnel and paint it to hide all of the solder stains in the brass! I probably won't get around to that until next year.
 
HAPPY NEW YEAR!

The smoke stack is finished (except for the antenna).
 
I painted the brass with a thin coat of FolkArt all-purpose satin finish sealer. This is what I have been using to seal the wooden surfaces before painting. The instructions on the bottle say it can be used on a "non-porous surface to add slight texture for increased paint adhesion." It is a water-based clear acrylic paint.
 
After the sealer had dried about 40 hours (delayed due to Christmas events) I painted the black top. After that dried overnight I applied masking tape over the black and painted the grey. The paint flowed on smoothly and adhered to the sealer nicely. Neither the paint nor sealer lifted off the brass when the masking tape was removed.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
Here is a picture of the fire station at the aft end of the main deckhouse. The life jacket locker hangs directly overhead.
 
It was an open space away from passageways where the life jackets could be dumped. However, it was just relatively open! The two sailors are standing on a "portable" (removable) deck section that is directly over the four GMC 6-71 main propulsion diesels. An inclined ladder will lead down to the main deck behind the sailor on the left.
 
When I get around to making the minesweeping gear a small winch will be mounted on the portable deck section. The winch is for handling the large float for the acoustic sweep device. Just outboard to starboard of the winch was a davit, and the acoustic sounder mounted outboard of that. The life jackets would dump on top of the winch and the spaces around it.
 
A hand grenade locker was positioned where the Captain (in dress khakis) is standing. One of the life rafts will be positioned at the aft starboard corner of the deck house. Forward of that was a pyrotechnic locker.
 
There was a narrow walkway between the lockers and life raft leading to the top of the vertical ladder. There really wasn't a lot of bare deck space anywhere on the ship.
 
 
 
 
 

Nicely built model!! First time I have seen a model of one of these hydrofoil boats that were built by Boeing in experimental dab into maritime projects for the Navy.  Also first time I have seen the foils in position not for high-speed. 
 
Brian D

amazing work.  those look like microscope slide glass cover slips- how did you cut them?

What are the functions of the other vents in the stack?? Obviously the biggest vent will be for the engine exhaust, and I am figuring a vent or two for the galley.
 
Brian D

Hello everyone!
 
First of all, thank you so much for your likes and interest. Chris, thank you for your motivation. I found your work on this excellent, as well as your entire build log.
 
Continuing with the cleats, which are now finished. For a first attempt, I'm very happy with the result. The finishing touches will be done during sanding with the frame.
 

 

 

 

 
Regards
Andreas
 
 

Russ, if one had a milling setup, this method could work even better.  By hand, in my imagination at least, it saves some time!
 
Don, Oneida is a great kit for someone who would like to test the waters of scratch bulding, but may not feel confident about jumping in fully (that describes me exactly).  For another thing, if you don't have a power jig-saw, the laser cut frame pieces, deck beams and knees will save you a ton of time over cutting them out by hand. The plans, on-line instructions, and laser cut framing are adequate to complete a basic model, but if you want to take it a step further--as many Oneida builders seem to do--be ready to invest a lot more time in research and yes, scratch-building.   In that case you will very quickly leave the kit plans and instructions behind.   I'm very thankful to Dave for making this kit available, and he's been very willing to customise it for whatever woods you'd like to use.  Just be aware that not everything is spelled out in the manner of a Chuck Passaro kit!!
 
Ron

First batch of birthdays and holidays (Wife's on 10/22, Brothers on 12/6) behind me so now on to the Cheerful. Worked on the trees before the mast as I think it will be easier to make the mast fit the trees rather than trees fitting the mast. I copied the plans and glued to wood for part.

Using the scroll saw cutting the image leaving enough too finish with the disk sander. (I'll put a new sandpaper)

next using the oscillating spindle sander to finish the parts inner curve. Like other logs where the used a mill to cut the slots into the cross pieces, why with others success why reinvent the wheel, I did the same process. Using four pieces of material glued together so the protecting the inner pieces from chipping as the cutter existed.
T
The parts where assemblied on to of the plans image. I left the center cross piece long on purpose to file it close to the adjoining part.

When the glue dries I sand the center flush to the sides. With to trees done I'll move on to the mast. Gulp
 
 
 
 
 
 

Final venturi work.
 

 
For all the worrying I did about making the venturis, I think they came out pretty nice! They seem to be very sturdy.
 

 
The vents and horn on the face of the deckhouse complete (I think) all the details on the sides of the deck houses. But I still need to make the name boards.

Hi Chuck - awesome stuff, as usual.  I’m looking forward to your gun rigging tutorial.  Presently, I’m struggling through that exercise in 1:96.  I’d be very curious to know more about the specifics of how you attach hooks to tackles, and so forth.

Hi Fred,
Any updates on rigging your Winnie?
I wonder (haven't read back for a while, sorry), which rope and blocks, brands, sizes) you use for rigging your lovely cannons?
Thanks,
Frank,

Hi guys,
I finally started working on the forward frames.
I started with the port side first.
Now, all that's left is to glue the hawse pieces, but that can wait until the end.
Today, I started working on the starboard side.
First, I had to prepare the apron.
Since the forward frames slope gradually forward, they require angles and tapering. The apron must be adapted to this, which is very important.
I think the photos show what I mean.

The apron is now glued on, and the first frames are ready to be glued on.

Ciao ☺️
 
 

Good morning ☺️
 
 

Thanks Marc!  Good to hear from you.
 
I've never made pintles before so I did a little research to see how others had made them.  I saw examples where the strap was soldered around the front of the pin which was then filed away to move the rudder closer to the stern post.  I didn't think this method would work for me as getting the 1mm thick strap to sit exactly around the pin seemed slim so I ruled that out.  Frolich in his book says to make them out of a solid piece to get a very good fit.  I thought that this was a great idea but struggled to think of a way to hold the piece whilst I was making it so I also ruled this out.  I decided to just try and make them exactly the way that Gerard has drawn them in the monograph.
 
The brass used was  1/16" (1.55mm) solid rod for the pin and 1mm x 2.3mm for the strap.  I needed to silver solder the strap directly to the side of the pin to achieve the fit that I wanted.  As silver solder has virtually no filling properties I needed to make a jig to hold each piece tightly in place whilst soldering.
 
I used a vermiculite block which I drilled a hole for the pin to sit in and then milled a couple of brass blocks to hold the straps.


It took me 3 attempts until I found the correct relationship between the pin and straps.  The first attempt set the pin slightly too high;  the second attempt set the straps a little too high but the third was just about right.



Making the other bends was simple - what I did was cut a light line using a saw through the inside of the bend to get a clean result.  I also had to make the other fitting on the rear of the rudder that the chains attach to.  Once made I cleaned them up and drilled the holes in all of the pieces and also the rudder.


Finally all of the parts were blackened and fitted using just small amounts of epoxy resin.  





So thats another challenge completed and I'm hoping to get a nice close fit to the stern post.  The pintles really are solid I just hope I've left enough space to slide them onto the gudgeons - in theory I have!
 
So the gudgeons will be my next job.
 
Thanks Mark 

Still working on the small details for the O1 deck house.
 

 
The bell bracket was made from 0.030 inch (8 mm) brass. The bell is from Bluejacket Ship Crafters (1/4 inch, part F0483). I have made bells from scratch, but it was much easier to order the bell while I was also ordering the propeller. The parts on the right are brackets to belay signal halliards.
 

 
Here are a couple of photos of the signal bridge. the flag bag (flag locker) has a "canvas" cover. It was made from some of the scrap silkspan I had left over from the topsail schooner build. It was painted off-white for the schooner sails so I brushed on some Tamiya "German Grey" (XF-63). This is what I will use for the O1 and O2 level decks.
 
A board with cleats for securing halliards is above the flag bag, with the halliard belays on either side. The thing with the red top is the shore connection box where the ship was "plugged in" to shore power while docked. There are three vent hoods from the fan room at the aft end of the O1 level house.

Installation continues thru frame 32 notice the frames reverse at frame 30. 

She is looking really nice.  I love the CNC'd figure head and stern carvings.  I think I may not have mentioned this before, but I love how you combined POB and POF model into a hybrid model!

Today I just released the stern frame jig. Now this is a little more complicated than the other parts. It required some cutting, since the main structure of the jig sits down into the bulkheads it needs to be lifted up for removal but we have stern structure that runs across horizontally into slots in the brackets, if we lifted the whole thing it would rip the stern apart. So I added some perforation on the brackets.
start by removing the upper extension wing brackets. 
I just sawed them right down the middle and removed the bracket.
From here go ahead and start cutting the perforation 

I used a micro saw blade on my xacto blade holder and cut them all on each bracket. It’s MDF so it cuts pretty easy.
once you have the main part of the Jig cut free it should just lift straight up and away.

From there the remaining jig is meant to slide out forward, note that the lower parts of the jig must pass through the slots on the bulkheads that the other part fit in.
you may need to saw off the ends of the horizontal frame brackets to help it out easier. 


If you made it through the stern assembly without gluing any parts to the jig then it should wiggle out gently and then pull right out.


now the bulkhead reinforcement hoops can be removed and we can begin fairing the inside of the hull. 

Great progress, I like the bridge details and the upper level plans shared on here. I thought Navy mugs were supposed to be without handles?? Or was that older times?

Hello everyone
A special and unique feature of the l'Anémone is the upper end strip of the transom.
 

 
To stabilize the stern structure, it had to be manufactured and installed now.
Due to its curved shape, I couldn't use a scraper. Therefore, the strip was hand-cut using a small milling tool.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
to be continued...
Herzliche Grüße
Willi
 
 

Hello everyone
Hello everyone
The rear (hopefully these are the correct terms or are translated correctly)
 

 
How I made the frames:
 
Copy the plan, cut out the paper frame.
 


Disassemble the paper frame into its individual parts.
 


Glue the segments onto a boxwood strip. Consider the grain as much as possible.
 


Cut out.
 


Clean, sand.
 


Reassemble the individual parts to form the two frame halves (almost like a puzzle).
 

 
 


Assemble the frame halves (left before, right after pre-shaping).
 

 
Installation
 

 
to be continued
 
Herzliche Grüße
Willi

Back at it today with Portland, right off the plane and into the garage! I finished the port side hull planking, got it all blocked out and coated with WOP, now I can move onto the black strake and then the wales. 


Also some goodies shows up, the remaining carvings for the model. These are the first production run in boxwood and look pretty good.



With each set of boxwood carvings you order, a set of stainless scrapers are included. These moulding profiles are taken from the drawings or Portland and the contemporary example of Bristol. The instructions will have a key that shows where each profile belongs on the model.
I couldn’t help myself and had to take a test run on a few of the rejects. These are just taped on and fitting pretty rough but you get a good idea of how it will look. There’s still a long way to go on the quarter galleys and the stern of the model. Before the rest of the carvings can be attached.

JJ

Hello again!
 
Apologies for the lengthy delay in any update on this build. I had a couple months' absence from the model when various aspects of life got in the way and my free time seemed to disappear! Hopefully, I can now return to a bit more of a regular schedule.
 
I restarted work by temporarily attaching the forward cant frame FC1 to the keel as this needs to be in place to ensure that the length of the bases of the bollard timbers and hawse pieces is correct. I then shaped the bevel on the inside face of the bollard timbers using my tilting table on the drill press sander. This worked pretty well on those areas where the bevel was consistent but I also resorted to some freehand sanding with a small drum in a dremel where there was a transition in the bevel angle. A similar procedure was also undertaken with the several hawse pieces which had also been cut from stock on the scroll saw.
 
The bollard timbers were temporarily spot glued to the stem and the hawse pieces then spot glued to the bollard timber. This is the state of progress so far with further hawse pieces still to be added.


I have left the inner and outer faces to the bollard timber and hawse pieces slightly over size at present. They will be removed from the stem in due course and sanded to a smoother curve as a single unit. You may note that the base of one of the hawse pieces doesn't quite match up to the cant frame but that shouldn't be a problem as there also needs to be a bevel faired into the foreside of the cant frame and the base of the hawse pieces in due course once the whole assembly has been completed (you can see the line marked on the can't frame to indicate this). If it does prove to be a problem then I can have another attempt at it again (as I would be surprised if things go exactly to plan first time around!).