medic
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medic reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Update - all the guns & lids are now in place so she can defend herself. The tangs on the lid hinges were inserted in small holes drilled in the hull & with the ropes attached they are fairly sturdy. The ropes for closing the lids were simply tied to the pins on the backs of the dummy guns before gluing them in place. Happy new year to all & thanks for looking in.
Mark
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medic reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
A little update - before starting on the planking I thought it would be a good time to make the hole for the bowsprit. Planked down from the main deck to just below the lower gun deck. After triple checking the gun port positions vertically & horizontally I drilled pilot holes for marking & cutting the gun ports out, I am trying to decide whether to cut out the gun ports now or finish planking down to the keel & sand the hull first. I`m thinking it may be easier to plank the lower part of the hull first so I don`t snag the sandpaper on all the holes.
Mark
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medic reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
A little update - I got the stern & bow filler blocks shaped & bulkhead edges beveled in preparation for the first planking. Also added a support on the lower gun deck for the mizzen mast. I will fasten the keel & stem before planking - have always done it that way. I will plank from the main deck level down to the lower gun deck so I can locate the openings for the gun ports following the lead by Vince P on his RW build. I also tapered the stern keel former down to 5mm so the planking will go up against the keel properly.
Mark
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medic reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
I thought I would dry fit the false keel & stem before gluing the bulkheads & ran into a little problem. First the stem was broke in 2 places which was not a big issue - just glued it back together. The breaks were not in a spot that would be easily visible. Second - the false keel & stern post are 7mm thick but the stem piece is almost 8mm thick . After some work with the disc sander & a sanding block I got it down to the correct thickness.
Mark
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medic reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Thanks guys. I have been following the other logs & am aware of some of the issues. I dry fitted the bulkheads to the keel former & found I had to make a few adjustments to the slots in the forward bulkheads like the rest of you. Also frame F is a little short at the top - will need to add a shim across the top. After making those adjustments everything lined up nicely.
Mark
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medic reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Hi all - this will be my attempt at building the Royal William from Euromodel. I say attempt because I consider my skills as just average. Upon opening the very heavy box I took a few pictures of the contents.All the bulkheads & the keel former are nicely laser cut. The keel former is good & straight but some of the bulkheads are warped a little. The contents include the usual fittings & a lot of cast metal pieces - most nicely done. There are 17 sheets of very nicely done 1:1 plans & a lot of strip wood which seems to be good quality.
Mark
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medic got a reaction from Don Quixote in Instructions are important to me
I recently got the Cutter 'Mermaid" a kit from the Modeller's ship yard in Australia. Nice detailed plans and ticks off most of the things on your list.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from geoff in Hello From David - A new member
Hi David and welcome,
I be very keen to see your Mary Byrne, mid last year I brought the Mermaid but was torn between the two, so I expect my next purchase to be the Mary Byrne.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from mtaylor in Hello From David - A new member
I haven't started her yet David, I'm working my way through the Clipper Harvey at the moment. You live in a great part of the world too. I'm born and bred in Warragul.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from David of Berwick in Hello From David - A new member
Hi David and welcome,
I be very keen to see your Mary Byrne, mid last year I brought the Mermaid but was torn between the two, so I expect my next purchase to be the Mary Byrne.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from mtaylor in Instructions are important to me
I recently got the Cutter 'Mermaid" a kit from the Modeller's ship yard in Australia. Nice detailed plans and ticks off most of the things on your list.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from Canute in When to varnish
Thanks guys, for me it will be pin as much as possible and then put a finishing coat on once complete.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from Canute in When to varnish
Thanks Jaager for your sound advice, It's always better to ask the question than let your pride bugger the finish. Sage words from my wife
Cheers,
Medic
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medic reacted to David of Berwick in Hello From David - A new member
Hello All -
I am quite new to model ship building, having only started in mid 2016. I have already found this to be a very rewarding hobby - and in particular I am surprised at just how much thinking and planning ahead is involved! I have built one kit model (the Port Jackson Schoooner from Modellers Shipyard) and am currently building the Mary Byrne (a colonial ketch also from Modellers Shipyard). Both are rated at skill level 2 - and I am finding it fascinating as to just how much work is involved.
I am picking up skills I never knew I had (such as planking and furnture construction) - and I have quickly come to realise that in building one ship that I am really picking up skills for my next build.
I look forward to uploading some photos of my build( once I figure out how to...) - and to reading all the advise and tips that experienced modellers can give me.
All the best,
David
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medic got a reaction from Canute in Instructions are important to me
I recently got the Cutter 'Mermaid" a kit from the Modeller's ship yard in Australia. Nice detailed plans and ticks off most of the things on your list.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from reilly in Harvey by medic - Artesania Latina - 1:50 - Baltimore Clipper
So I recently picked up this kit at a swap sell meet at the Scale ACT modelling competition an have been cheerfully chugging away. As this is my first serious attempt in this medium of modelling strap yourselves in because I have heaps of questions.
As you can see I've completed the first layer of hull planking and the deck. The plans call for the bulwarks to be planked and attached before commencing the second layer.
So to my question.... As the bulwark is flat should I follow the curvature of the bulwark and assume the planks will come into a horizontal line as the bulwark is attached to the shape of the deck. Or should I run the planks horizontally on the flat bulwark and hope that they remain horizontal when attached to the deck.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic reacted to Don Quixote in Instructions are important to me
Currently way over my head with Model Shipworlds Niagara. It's hard seperating which rigging is for standing only and which is for sails/furled...etc. So I've shelved it and want another ship. I asked this question when I first started here and was told it was a stupid question. 3 years later I'll ask again.
Who makes the best kits? GOOD detailed instructions. I hear Victory makes great kits, but they only have a few to choose from and they're mostly for advanced builders.
What about Constructo?
I want a mid size ship, around 1:60th, needs to have at least a few cannons but must have GREAT documentation and plans.
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medic got a reaction from oscarmate in Harvey by medic - Artesania Latina - 1:50 - Baltimore Clipper
So I recently picked up this kit at a swap sell meet at the Scale ACT modelling competition an have been cheerfully chugging away. As this is my first serious attempt in this medium of modelling strap yourselves in because I have heaps of questions.
As you can see I've completed the first layer of hull planking and the deck. The plans call for the bulwarks to be planked and attached before commencing the second layer.
So to my question.... As the bulwark is flat should I follow the curvature of the bulwark and assume the planks will come into a horizontal line as the bulwark is attached to the shape of the deck. Or should I run the planks horizontally on the flat bulwark and hope that they remain horizontal when attached to the deck.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from Steve 12345 in When to varnish
Thanks guys, for me it will be pin as much as possible and then put a finishing coat on once complete.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from mtaylor in When to varnish
Thanks guys, for me it will be pin as much as possible and then put a finishing coat on once complete.
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from mtaylor in When to varnish
Thanks Jaager for your sound advice, It's always better to ask the question than let your pride bugger the finish. Sage words from my wife
Cheers,
Medic
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medic got a reaction from Jack12477 in HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
Fantastic craftmanship.
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medic reacted to AndyW in HMS Racehorse by medic - Sergal Mantua - 1:47
I used straight satin yacht varnish for both hull and deck.
Reason being I wasn't wanting to weather or create more authenticity but just enhance the beauty of the wood.
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medic got a reaction from Canute in HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
Fantastic craftmanship.
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medic got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HMS Racehorse by medic - Sergal Mantua - 1:47
So I've applied a single coat of a combination stain/satin varnish more to protect finish against dirty marks and stains while I'm continuing work. Once I've cut the gun ports I intend putting a couple more coats on the hull.
I've now moved onto the deck and have used an 8b pencil on the edges of the planks to highlight joints.
My question now is what is the best way to finish the deck off when I varnish? I'm thinking sanding will just leave grey smears. Is there an alternative?
In terms of the finished product most of the decks I've been looking at seem to have a clear varnish without any stain pigment. Is this correct or should I go with something very light?
Cheers
Medic
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