medic

Guys thanks very much for the feedback this kind of support makes my transition from the other forms modelling to period ships that much easier, and as a new guy that much more welcomed.
Cheers
Medic

I go along with Keith, satin for me too. I have used both satin and flat in the past.

Matter of taste. Some people say flat. Some say satin. 

I have finished 4 of my last ships in satin, the last was finished in tung oil - which is only a tiny bit more satin than flat. 

I started using an airbrush about 6 months ago. I use acrylics. Once you get your paint consistency and pressure right, you won't go back. Cleanup is easy. I also polyurethane with the airbrush. I use a 50-50 mix of poly and low odour turps and it works well. For painting acrylics I use a double action airbrush but for applying the poly I use a cheap single action airbrush. If you decide to go with an airbrush, make sure you get a compressor with a tank. It is quieter and you get a more consistent result. Make sure you have a moisture trap installed as well. I agree with NMBROOK about applying thin coats and sanding back between each. One of the big advantages of using an airbrush is the ability to apply very thin coats. I use a mix of 50% paint and 50-50 distilled water and clear windex. Even with 5 - 6 coats you can still see the wood grain - something I like. As to painting parts before assembly, If you are going to airbrush you will need to do this. I agree with S.Colman, plan ahead and paint what you can before you assemble. On my current build - HMS Supply, I have painted all planks (that needed painting), stern facia, fore deck facia, stem post, rudder, capping rails, and deck furniture with an airbrush before fitting. There are still a lot of places that I use a brush, for example window frames, but I'm sold on using my airbrush!!

It's an airbrush for me for 90 percent of my painting.  I use acrylics and airbrush cleanup is easy.  The secret to airbrushing small areas is to use an airbrush meant for detail work vs one meant for larger areas. 
Spray cans are of limited use in my opinion with the hobby brands, Testors, etc. being OK but the use of hardware store paints (spray or cans) is to be avoided due to the size of the paint pigments.  Model paints are in the 1 micron range while hardware store paints, meant to cover in one application range about 17 to 32 microns and will obscure details..
To avoid water based paints from raising the grain of basswood or other woods a coat of shellac sprayed or brushed will seal the wood and the water based paint applied over the shellac will not raise the grain.
Kurt

Yup, spray cans are great for applying large coats of paint. Here's a tip: immerse your spray cans in hot water for 10 minutes before using them. This causes the pressure in the cans to build up, so the spray that you get is finer. If you let your cans get cold / or let the pressure go down, the paint comes out in droplets and causes a blotchy effect. 

Greetings,
 
I use brushes for painting. However, don't forget the other option: spray cans. Model shops have all kinds of spray colors and finishes and paint and hardware stores (Home Depot, Loews, etc.) have huge selections. The spray cans work great for applying polyurethane over the hull and decks. With all that said, I have limited experience with air brushing but there is limited clean up with brushes and spray cans compared to air brushing.
 
wq3296

i`d have to go with the others on this one. Using a brush is alot better for fiddly tasks. For painting the hull under the waterline i would maby use an airbrush.  I take a look at the stages of construction in order to see what needs to be painted before assembling parts. ie, hard to reach places etc. hope this helps you out.

I agree with Matti. It's a brush & water based acrylics for me every time. I found airbrushing too fiddly & time consuming, at least with acrylics you can clean your brushes quickly in water!

I,like Matti prefer a brush.The biggest issue with wood,especially basswood,is that the first coat lifts the grain.I tend to apply lots of thin coats by brush with plenty of flatting back every couple of coats.You are gaining very little tooling up with an airbrush as any imperfections are sanded away anyway.However I do spray everything with clear polyurethane afterwards.
Painting areas that will be hard to reach as you go is highly recommended.
As Matti says though,there is no right and wrong,we just find a method that works best for us.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

For me brush works better on a wooden shipmodel. I work with washes and drybrushing alot and also pastel powder. I use the airbrush once in a while when I need to add a thin coat of varnish to make the pastels stick.
 
I paint everything before assembling them. You need to be sure of the look you want early though.
 
But this is preference and imo there are few wrong or rights in modelbuilding.
 
/Matti

Thanks GuntherMT,
So here is an image of the one I've ordered. It may be known by another name however this is what the website I got it from called it. Essentially it's an elongated vice with aluminium jaws which will take longer lengths of timber. You can position the planks on an angle and shave until you have the desired angle...........or there abouts.  I got mine from the modellers Shipyard
Cheers
Medic 

Thanks GuntherMT,
So here is an image of the one I've ordered. It may be known by another name however this is what the website I got it from called it. Essentially it's an elongated vice with aluminium jaws which will take longer lengths of timber. You can position the planks on an angle and shave until you have the desired angle...........or there abouts.  I got mine from the modellers Shipyard
Cheers
Medic 

Hey all,
So while I'm waiting for Santa to bring me a timber vice and therefore make the process of tapering planks easier (or so the story goes) I thought I would work on some of the deck furnishings/fixtures which was actually quite fun. I even made some extra parapet bitts out of off cuts so I can take the pick of the litter when the time comes. Now I think I'll turn my attention to the anchors.
Cheers
Medic

Thanks to every for their help, don't get me wrong I love this site and am quite IT Savvy, but there just something about having a magazine on the work bench. Maybe it's a hangover from my historical miniatures days
Cheers.
Medic

Thanks to every for their help, don't get me wrong I love this site and am quite IT Savvy, but there just something about having a magazine on the work bench. Maybe it's a hangover from my historical miniatures days
Cheers.
Medic

Thanks to every for their help, don't get me wrong I love this site and am quite IT Savvy, but there just something about having a magazine on the work bench. Maybe it's a hangover from my historical miniatures days
Cheers.
Medic

allanyed has a good point but that said "Nautical Research Journal" of the Nautical Research Guild is a good place to start.  It covers both ship modeling and the history of ships.  There is a link to their homepage at the top of this page.  You might find "Ships in Scale" another good one to take a look at.

Hello all,
So I'm new to the hobby having commenced approximately two weeks ago, and this is my first new post of my very first kit. So strap yourself in for the thrills and excitement that is HMS Racehorse by Medic.
I've attached the bulkheads to the keel and as the manufacturers plans suggest the fairing is only required on the first and second bulkhead. I was of the belief that nearly all the bulkheads required some level of fairing. Has anyone else out there done this kit and what was their experience.
Cheers
Medic
 
 

This is my first wooden ship model, Been looking forward to doing this for years. One question I have, In the instructions with the Corel Kit it says to use "Vinyl Glue" for the wood to wood glueing, I checked with the local Hobby store and they had no idea what that was, so I am using White Glue, however this is water soluble, Is there a better glue to use for the build? How to glue, wet bent wood? Doesn't work with water soluble glue.
  Also to glue the laths on the underside of the deck the plans did not line up with the spacing of the ribs on the keel. I ended up cutting and stretching the plans about 1/8" just after the 5th rib to get them to line up for gluing. See the attached pics. ( I hope).
  After soaking the deck in water (and losing 16 of the water soluble glued laths) I have positioned the deck with rubber bands to get the proper curvature of the deck. I will remove it next, after it has dried for a couple of days and glue it to the ribs and then re-glue the laths back into position.
  I have worked with wood in numerous situations over the years and have a reasonable understanding of its characteristics however, I welcome suggestions and helpful tips as I definitely know there is much I do not know.  Thanks in advance for any tips and assistance.
  I am a land locked, non-mariner so i may get my terminology incorrect in naming pieces of the ship, no offence intended.
  Thanks for reading, Ken