xavjar

Hi,
 
 
Incredible work mate,   real top notch stuff……..

Yes there is. Embarrased that I can't link you to the log here at MSW, but I added these pics to my how-to folders. If anyone can lead bigcreekdad to the log that would be great. 
 
I also attempted to do a mouse in my build log, before seeing the photos below. I will try this new better method for the mainmast.
 
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/329-wasa-by-md1400cs-corel-175/page-59 scroll to bottom of page
 
hope that these help
 

 
 

Thank you for your comments Neal,

It's good to be able to "bounce" ideas of another builder who's doing the same build as me.
 
Enjoy your build mate, take care
 
Phil,

Hi,
 
Your planking looks great mate, really nice work.
 
Cheers Phil,
 
 

Phil thanks for your post. Your build is very good, the planking and the lower stern counter look exellent, keep up this standard of build
And you will create some thing special for yourself DAVID

Ron once you have sharpened the chisel on the stone, then if you strop it (remember the scenes in movies of the barber stopping the single edged razor) use an old leather belt and pull the blade towards you first one side then the other holding it from the handle so that the chisel is in line with the belt. If you do not have any polishing compound put a little toothpaste on the belt and it will bring up a razor sharp edge that you can literally shave with. If I cannot shave with a cutting tool knife or chisel then it is not sharp enough for me. A dull tool is a dangerous tool.
 
I like to use the Japanese water stones for the stone work.
 
Michael

Hello to everybody  .
 
My nickname is Jack.Aubrey and I was in the past a strong follower of ModelShipWorld, both with my own logs and as a normal, simple but very interested reader . .
 
I knew some days ago what happened to the old Modelshipworld forum . . it was a big loss, a dramatic loss. I hope for the future this will never happen . . anyway I have decided to participate actively to this new adventure.
 
I'm working on a model of the french "Le Soleil Royal", from De Agostini.
 
I started this new project on Sunday April 18, 2010 and I have maintained a personal WIP on http://www.deagostinipassion.com/forum/posts/list/24639.page since that date.
 
Unfortunately it is in italian language so it may be probably difficult if not impossible for somebody to follow it, so i decided to translate part of it here, starting from the beginning.
 
In order to have the possibility to post the past and the present, I have decided, if accepted by the forum staff, to split the log in two segments, the first is this one, where I will post my work from the beginning until now and a second one where I will put the messages of the work I will start tomorrow until the end.
 
In this way I think to show easily my work, without to wait to complete the past before starting with the present and future.
 
See (or better read) you soon, Jack.

Greetings one and all
I have spent a few days fitting hinges and eyelets to the 14 upper deck guns and painting them. Tonight I loose fitted the cannons to check the alignment and they seem ok, and if any adjustment is needed there is no problem. I simply drilled them by eye, after trying to use a spirit level Phile ( the glass bit whatever it is called) blue tacked on the top of my small drill. Well the idea was there !!!! But it didn't work for me......I had bubble trouble!!!!. Fitting the lids is pretty easy, and I just lined them up by eye. I fitted six and will leave them overnight and will secure the threads to the hull tomorrow. I am definitely going to do a better job than I did on the earlier ports, which was not very good, with the thread sagging. I think it's just a matter of pulling the thread tight and touch of ca on the eyelet, I don't know why I didn't do it before. I also fitted the canopy, but I dropped a bit of a clanger earlier today. I deleted some of my photos of my last post, when deleting a message I had left. I will put a few of them back up with the ones I am posting now. Well there you go, once again I am pretty happy with things and will post again when I have finished the full 14 lids and guns. Thanks to you all for viewing and your comments. Here's some photos. DAVID

For patrick
I made this marker thing, the marker is approx 105mm from the base. Stand your ship on keel on a flat base and square it up and wedge it in position. Draw all the way around hull with marker and glue styrene around line. I think I used .5mm x 1mm like derek said. Hope this helps DAVID.
Check 105mm dimension on drawing. Sorry for photo quality

Excellent build, and interesting to make comparisons with my own, I can follow your progress now
Neale

That style of planking would look very nice on a natural hull......
 
thanks for the links, I really must have a propper look around this site one day!!!!!
 
Cheers Phil,

I browsed the site today looking at other models. One thing that struck me, particularly with more experienced guys, is this so called "contemporary planking", and the lack of stealers and droppers. It seems, to do the job properly, one should avoid these techniques ... and after I spent so much time learning how to do them too!!
 
[One of] the recommended way to plank a hull, so I read, is to cut your own planks. In this way, you gain control over the number of rows of planks, the plank widths, and (in accordance with the recommended, or contemporary approach) even cut curved planks. Pre-curved planks, once bent, will follow the curve of the hull closely if done properly, and negate the need to droppers.
 
Stealers, using the same method, are avoided because the hull sides are broken down into segments and tapered according to a planking template (which looks like a lesson in perspective in an art class (btw)). The maximum width of each plank at each rib point is carefully calculated in a table for each segment, with the amount of taper noted at each rib. Stealers can be plotted out by applying the maximum width to the end of the keel.
 
The end result looks fantastic, really - I'm very impressed. But I'm not a student of the craft, and I do state that this log is my first build, and so in time I may want to build a model using this method, perhaps even for my next build.
 
In the meantime, I'm specifically following a detailed step-by-step set of magazines for my first build, and so, as much as I like the end product, I won't change my planking for this build. I have droppers galore at the front of my ship, so a real aficionado won't be at all impressed with my efforts, and as I approach the point where I need to add stealers (I have read-ahead to that part in the magazine!) I'm going to carry on with the same enthusiasm and learn as much as I can as I go.
 
As far as other elements of contemporary model planking, I'm using supplied parts for this build, and they are a fixed size in advance, so I don't have the benefit of using a planking template, and neither am I able at the moment to cut my own planks to size. Having said that, I would first buy stock sized planks and see if I can set them in the required curve before bending (and tapering) them to the hull. Having studied the technique documented by site Admin Chuck http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/user/2-chuck/ (sorry Chuck, I don't know how else to credit/link you) and his very useful planking guide here http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining%20Off%20your%20hull%20for%20planking.pdf I think I could pull it off
 
Anyhow, on with the build, happy modelling everybody

Hi,
 
You're certainly cracking on with the planking pal, It's looking great,
 
You'll have to let me know how the mouse sander works out for you in regards to sanding down the hull I was looking at getting one of those my self for the same task, I'm sanding by hand as I go at the moment and I've got the blisters to prove it!!!!!!
 
Enjoy your build mate,
 
Phil,

Hi,
 
Great looking build mate,
 
I'm on the planking of the lower hull stage my self, I found the transom hard going at first but I've got the hang of it now.
 
Keep the pics coming,
 
Cheers Phil,

Hi,
 
I'm in the same boat as you (pardon the pun!!) I've only just started building her last month as I've been busy with other things, still it has given me time to do a bit of planning.
 
Your builds looking good mate,
 
 
Cheers Phil,

Great to see your log back up and running mate,
 
Your work is a huge inspiration to me,
 
Cheers,

Here are some pictures of the thickness sander I built last year for my Triton cross section build. It is powered by a drill and takes a half sheet of standard size sandpaper. The metal shaft is fitted through two bearings recessed into the sides, then several wooden discs fixed to the shaft. There is a couple if holes drilled in the shaft and a small nail through each fixed to a couple of the wooden discs so they wouldnt spin. I then glued a sheet of sandpaper to a flat board and set this on the bed, turned on the drill and raised the bed to sand the surface flat to the table. The hole on top was put in later an is is to fit the vacuum hose and makes this unit virtually dust free. The drill is fixed in place but can be removed by a single screw at the handle end. I have a couple of drills so havent had to remove this yet. Being variable speed I can adjust for the fine sanding or for the first thicknessing.
 
Can open up to about 60mm deep and is 120mm wide. I have sanded down to 1mm succesfully and the thickness is set by the bolt at the rear of the table. Sandpaper is fixed a wooden shaft with a slot to fit the flat bar to hold the sheet in place. The only parts I paid for were the split pins that hold the shaft in place, the rest I had lying around the shed. It has now had a tidy up and a bit of paint on the top. 
 

 

 

 

 

Hi,
 
 
Incredible work mate,   real top notch stuff……..