ca.shipwright

See if you can locate someone doing 3D commercial printing. They can make very small items.

My Victory is a kit bash using the Practicum by Bob Hunt. In this practicum he uses ebony for black and boxwood for the light stripes. The planks follow the sheer of the ship while the stripes parallel the keel. This makes you construct a plank that is partially light and partially dark. Bob calls this "paint with wood." Unfortunate;y, I am allergic to ebony so I am ebonizing some boxwood using India ink. This works pretty well.
 
Regards

Interesting about the sail plan sheet. It look's like the more you spend, the less you get.
 
However, I have not been a big fan of sails on a static model. I have always built them bare. But, looking at you fine work may cause me to reevaluate my position.
 
And, your next build?
 
Regards

The previous post shows a homemade shaper table clamped in my woodworkers front vice. A generic mototool drives the sander. Thank you whomever you are; I can't rember where I saw this, for posting and sharing this apparatus. It works great.
 
Regards from the "Plagerizer - in - Chief."

Greetings everyone,
A further update on the Victory. We traced all the bulkheads, center keel and bracing on 6mm Baltic Birch plywood using the cut out templates. I opted not to glue them down on the wood because I can see the line better than the edge of the paper when I cut. I rough cut out the profiles on a band saw which is way more powerful then my Delta scroll saw. Baltic Birch is very dense. All good so far.
 
One immediate challenge is slots in the center keel, bulkheads and braces. The Mantua plywood is 5 mm. The Baltic Birch is 6mm. This is going to require some adjustment in the slot width- need to widen it 1 mm. What I have done is use the forward line of the slot as a base and widen it towards the rear on the center keel. As for the bulkheads themselves, I put a center line on all of them using the center of the width of the upper and lower center cutouts as the reference. Now I will run up the center line from the bottom and nibble away on each side until a test piece of the plywood fits snugly.
 
Using an extended line from the center keel slot, will allow me to keep the bulkheads vertically perpendicular to the keel. Fore and aft will be done using a 90^ clamped to the bulkhead and center keel. I am going to glue the bulkheads to the center keel, and the bracing with Wellbond glue (dissolves easily with alcohol).
 
I used the homemade shaper to sand the bulkheads to the final profile. Worked like a charm. I think someone in the Endeavour group posted this.Thank you for sharing it.
 
I drew all of the bulkhead modifications on now so I can complete the cutting with one set up of the scroll saw.Next up, is cutting out the center portions and modifications of the bulkheads as per the Bob Hunt's practicum. For those of you not familiar with this practicum; it is designed to kit bash this model by completely finishing the main gun deck and aft cabins, not just the midship portion as per the kit's design.
 
Some photos attached.
 
Regards

Darrell,
I did some testing with the India ink and Wipe-on-Poly satin. Before the satin was applied, the 2 coats of the India ink came out dead flat black. The one coat of satin brought just a hint of gloss. This lacks that depth or oil like sheen that Ebony has. I am going to try another coat of satin and also try some gloss Wipe-on-Poly to see if I can deepen the luster.
 
Regards

Greetings,
The first update. Heard back from Mantua Models today. It seems that the quote that I originally received for 65 Euros was "a fake mail." Today they quoted me 137 Euros which included 47 Euro in postage. I thanked them for their prompt response, politely declined, they refunded by PayPal payment immediately, and it was off to the wood store where I got all I needed for $41.00
 
Now it's time to trace and fabricate the 16 parts for the hull. Good thing I saved those templates! Not so bad, I could use some wood time in conjunction with all the Endeavour rigging to be done.
 
Regards,

After many years, several models, and in health and in sickness, I have decided to resume the HMS Victory. This log is based on the practicum by Bob Hunt. For those of you not familiar with Bob's work, this is a total kit bash involving completely finishing the main gun deck and aft cabins and replacing kit supplied wood with exotic wood which I mill myself. The primary source is the AOS HMS Victory by John McKay. And thanks to my wonderful First Lord of the Admiralty, I am also the proud owner of Arthur Bugler's HMS Victory, Building, Restoration and Repair. as well as books by Alan McGowen, and Neppon Longridge.   To make a long story short, I worked up to planking the starboard side down to the waterline where the copper plates began. Not being very happy with the result, I ripped everything out back down to the bulkheads and center keel. And, then I did it again. Needless to say the bulkheads' profiles were pretty well shot by now, and beyond salvage. Very discouraged, to say the least. My skills were just not ready to tackle this monster build. So, the Vicki went on the shelf.

Along the way, I found I was hypersensitive to Ebony. This was more discouragement as all of the Victory blacking that was black was to be installed with ebony as were the rudder sternpost and stem. Ebony can be toxic both as a topical and respiratory allergen. With ebony out of the question, I tried several ways to "ebonize" wood, but, until a few days ago, nothing came out very satisfactory. I was reading on one of the wood workers' forums about using India ink, which I had previously tried with poor results. The solution- no pun intended- is to use an archival grade, acid free India ink. So I bought a jug. I took some boxwood strips, which is what I am planking with, and put two coats on with a paint brush. Let them dry, wiped them down with a t-shirt and then applied a coat of solvent based Wipe-on-Poly. This looks like it may be the solution. I will know more when I try to do the paint with wood using a glued-up split color plank tomorrow. More on this to follow.

In the interim, I asked to purchase a complete set of the laser cut plywood hull pieces from Mantua in Italy. I am waiting to hear from them on Monday. If they don't want to sell me the set, I will just suck it up and cut them myself on the band saw and scroll saw and finish them on the oscillating sander.   The good news is the hoarder that I am, I have all of the templates needed through Chapter 5 cut out of copies made on manila file folders.

Regards to all

Beautiful job. Great photography. I am building the same kit as a kit bash. I definitely will use your log as a resource.
 
Thanks for posting

The Syren has sold

I did speak to John Garcia. The offer was a little low. Decided to try on my own.
Thanks

The Syren has sold

Very nicely done. Don't often see this type of ship modeled.

I did speak to John Garcia. The offer was a little low. Decided to try on my own.
Thanks

Hi Derek,
You can copy and paste your build log into Bob's  forum if you use Mozilla Firefox as your browser when you open MSW/NRG. Write once, post twice.

The Syren has sold

Very nicely done. Don't often see this type of ship modeled.

Hi Derek,
You can copy and paste your build log into Bob's  forum if you use Mozilla Firefox as your browser when you open MSW/NRG. Write once, post twice.

EJ,
I'm looking at the third bulkhead from the stern in the next to last picture above. It appears that there is a "break" in the planking run- a sharp bend over the aft edge of this bulkhead. There is really no way to fill and sand to correct this unless you plan to fill all the way to the stern bulkhead A better solution is to remove the planks on this bulkhead and sand the bulkhead fair so that the planks flow out the aft edge smoothly and into the next bulkhead and further on to the last bulkhead at the stern.
 
One of the advantages of using full length planks for the under skin is that you get a very good idea of how the hull fairs out. I think most modelers take the view of getting the under-planking done, in whatever way floats your boat. Keep in mind that when the plank a real ship, they have frames every foot or so. They are able to get a true fair using the shorter planks. The gap between bulkheads is too wide to use scale planking- you cannot truly see the fairing required.
 
Having said all this, I really hope that the picture referenced above is a victim of some type of parallax and you won't have to any of the above.
 
Please, no criticism is intended. Your modeling is fantastic.
 
My Panart Victoy has almost the identical framing as the LSR.
 
Regards
 
 

EJ,
I'm looking at the third bulkhead from the stern in the next to last picture above. It appears that there is a "break" in the planking run- a sharp bend over the aft edge of this bulkhead. There is really no way to fill and sand to correct this unless you plan to fill all the way to the stern bulkhead A better solution is to remove the planks on this bulkhead and sand the bulkhead fair so that the planks flow out the aft edge smoothly and into the next bulkhead and further on to the last bulkhead at the stern.
 
One of the advantages of using full length planks for the under skin is that you get a very good idea of how the hull fairs out. I think most modelers take the view of getting the under-planking done, in whatever way floats your boat. Keep in mind that when the plank a real ship, they have frames every foot or so. They are able to get a true fair using the shorter planks. The gap between bulkheads is too wide to use scale planking- you cannot truly see the fairing required.
 
Having said all this, I really hope that the picture referenced above is a victim of some type of parallax and you won't have to any of the above.
 
Please, no criticism is intended. Your modeling is fantastic.
 
My Panart Victoy has almost the identical framing as the LSR.
 
Regards
 
 

Yanc,
I am totally in awe of your build. I showed it to my wife and she said, "that's a big one. It must be easy to build one that big". The I pointed out the details like the fleur de leis embedded in the blue trim and "oh my"'. I can't wait to see her sail.
 
Regards

Yanc,
I am totally in awe of your build. I showed it to my wife and she said, "that's a big one. It must be easy to build one that big". The I pointed out the details like the fleur de leis embedded in the blue trim and "oh my"'. I can't wait to see her sail.
 
Regards

Yanc,
I am totally in awe of your build. I showed it to my wife and she said, "that's a big one. It must be easy to build one that big". The I pointed out the details like the fleur de leis embedded in the blue trim and "oh my"'. I can't wait to see her sail.
 
Regards

Darrell,
I did some testing with the India ink and Wipe-on-Poly satin. Before the satin was applied, the 2 coats of the India ink came out dead flat black. The one coat of satin brought just a hint of gloss. This lacks that depth or oil like sheen that Ebony has. I am going to try another coat of satin and also try some gloss Wipe-on-Poly to see if I can deepen the luster.
 
Regards

Chris,
You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.
 
Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.
 
I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.
 
Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.
 
As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,
you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.
 
As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.
 
I hope some of this helps.
 
Regards