ca.shipwright
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from DaveRow in HMB Endeavour by ca.shipwright - Corel - 1:60
Thanks Greg- I got it and I see what you are talking about with the upper mast tressel trees
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from dashi in HMB Endeavour by ca.shipwright - Corel - 1:60
Thanks E J for your words of support. You feel as I do about this subject.
Now for a update on the photos:
Went to the shop this AM mumbling to myself and looked at the tops again and low and behold there was no mistake. They were all made with the same sized stock for the battens. Now for sure I really think I am loosing my mind. Back to the pictures and it looks like there was a focus difference between the shots. Photography is definitely not my strong suit. All's well that ends well.
Greg Lester: the nightmare is here. Do you have a URL for you build? I am having trouble locating it.
Regards,
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from EJ_L in HMB Endeavour by ca.shipwright - Corel - 1:60
I do believe the nightmares have started, In looking at the pictures of the tops after I posted them, I noticed 2 different types of battens. Do over again or use as is? This irritates me because I don't see how this happed. But, it is not a game breaker for me.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from hervie in HMB Endeavour by ca.shipwright - Corel - 1:60
Another update
Finished building the trestle trees, tops and spreaders this week. All that remains is to sand them and drill the appropriate holes. This was a much bigger job than I thought it would be. The battens almost drove be nuts. I guess this portends that the rest of the build, i.e. masting and rigging and armaments will be very challenging to say the least.
I wish my skills were better, but this is a learning experience and when it's done the small defects should be barely noticeable. Flat black paint is a wonderful enhancer.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from Captain Slog in HMB Endeavour by ca.shipwright - Corel - 1:60
Another update
Finished building the trestle trees, tops and spreaders this week. All that remains is to sand them and drill the appropriate holes. This was a much bigger job than I thought it would be. The battens almost drove be nuts. I guess this portends that the rest of the build, i.e. masting and rigging and armaments will be very challenging to say the least.
I wish my skills were better, but this is a learning experience and when it's done the small defects should be barely noticeable. Flat black paint is a wonderful enhancer.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from EJ_L in HMB Endeavour by ca.shipwright - Corel - 1:60
E J
Check this out on eBay:
Mini Precision Multi Function Milling Machine x-y axis Coordinate Table
Seller is hank xu
$40 includes shipping I think
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from DaveRow in HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit
Dave,
I am relying on your build of the tops. My eyes cant get all the details in the AOS plans. Yours are superb.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from Elijah in La Couronne by EJ_L - FINISHED - Corel - 1:100 - 1637 Version
Hi E.J.
Your La Couronne is coming out great. I have this ship and I may put it in the ways next, after I complete the Endeavour.
As for expensive, it's relative. You buy a kit for oh, $500. Then you spend half again to build it. Now were up to $750. Just for the h..l of it, buy $250 of new tools- you know gotta have 'em. So now were up to the magic number, $1000. So off we go, and, in 2 or 3 years or 2-3000 hours later we finish the kit. I just don't know many things I can do for 50 cents an hour.
Please chime in with comments if you care to. I have an Endeavour build log and a Sultana build log.
Regards,
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from dashi in HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit
Steve,
Thanks I seem to have overlooked that fact. I will probably remove the hounds and taper the mast more then reinstall them.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from dashi in HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit
Ah, leave the hoops. They look good. A little artistic license is ok.
Full disclosure: I made hoops also.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Sultana by ca.shipwright - Model Shipways MS2016 - 1:64
Here we are back again with an update.
I carved the hull to the profile using the station profile templates. This was a much more difficult task than I had anticipated. Carving end grain is absolutely brutal even with a pair of the finest wood chisels you can buy.
I wound up over carving at the bow. I thought that beginning at the bow would be the best method. Wrong. After mangling the bow I moved to the amidships area where the greatest beam lies, and worked fore and aft from there. This gave a much better result. A little over cutting here and there was expected. That’s why I purchased the large size of Elmer’s Wood Filler.
One of the issues that I ran into was that I tended to lose track of the keel while I was carving. I don’t have the flat 1/16th wide strip at the bottom of the hull that is need to attach the keel. As soon as the wood filler dries and is sanded down to match the hull. I am going to install a keelson and blend this into the hull with wood filer where needed and then sand to the final profile. Once this is done. I will cut the 1/16th rebate for the blanking.
The attached photos show the end product of the carving and the first sanding and with the first wood filer treatment. It's amazing what a good camera will do.
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768
Fantastic!!!
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from Elijah in La Couronne by EJ_L - FINISHED - Corel - 1:100 - 1637 Version
E J,
I totally agree with what you are saying about adding the appropriate items as to time and building practices. But, even more, if it looks right, it's right.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from BANYAN in HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768
Fantastic!!!
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from mtaylor in La Couronne by EJ_L - FINISHED - Corel - 1:100 - 1637 Version
E J,
I totally agree with what you are saying about adding the appropriate items as to time and building practices. But, even more, if it looks right, it's right.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from WackoWolf in La Couronne by EJ_L - FINISHED - Corel - 1:100 - 1637 Version
E J,
I totally agree with what you are saying about adding the appropriate items as to time and building practices. But, even more, if it looks right, it's right.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from KenW in La Couronne by EJ_L - FINISHED - Corel - 1:100 - 1637 Version
Hi E.J.
Your La Couronne is coming out great. I have this ship and I may put it in the ways next, after I complete the Endeavour.
As for expensive, it's relative. You buy a kit for oh, $500. Then you spend half again to build it. Now were up to $750. Just for the h..l of it, buy $250 of new tools- you know gotta have 'em. So now were up to the magic number, $1000. So off we go, and, in 2 or 3 years or 2-3000 hours later we finish the kit. I just don't know many things I can do for 50 cents an hour.
Please chime in with comments if you care to. I have an Endeavour build log and a Sultana build log.
Regards,
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from EJ_L in Sultana by ca.shipwright - Model Shipways MS2016 - 1:64
The lathe has a problem of splitting the dowels at the tail stock end. I am going to make a bunch of blocks out of hardwood, drill holes the sizes of the dowel diameters, Insert the dowel and use this against the tail stock. As an alternative, I may just wrap the end of the dowel in duct tape and see what happens. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from Piet in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Jesse,
I used to do furniture building and other macro wood projects. I made 3 foot blanket chest with hand cut dovetails. A most rewarding project for my wife. I also find the Dremel to "strong" for freehand use. I found more use for it mounted in a drill press or some other contraption.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from Piet in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Jesse,
Beautiful work. Are you using a milling machine or Sheerline for all the close drilling? Or, are you doing this freehand with a pin vise or Dremel?
Regards
Michael
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from rowand in HM Bark Endeavour by Mindi - Caldercraft - 1/64 - stopped build resumed
Hi Mindi,
Don't cut yourself short. Your modeling skills are wonderful as exhibited by your work on the Endeavour.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from Piet in HM Bark Endeavour by Mindi - Caldercraft - 1/64 - stopped build resumed
Nice Mindi
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from FriedClams in US Brig Syren by hervie - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hervie,
I think you've got it. We all have good sides and better sides- not to worry. The small defects that you know are there are not going to be very noticeable when the ship is complete. Many of them will be under or visually blocked by something added later on in the build. Keep the faith you're doing great.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from dgbot in US Brig Syren by hervie - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hervie,
I think you've got it. We all have good sides and better sides- not to worry. The small defects that you know are there are not going to be very noticeable when the ship is complete. Many of them will be under or visually blocked by something added later on in the build. Keep the faith you're doing great.
Regards
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ca.shipwright got a reaction from EJ_L in US Brig Syren by hervie - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hervie,
The frustrations you are feeling is something we all feel. The notched plank is one of the hardest things to accomplish well in building a gunboat.
The method I use is not that different from EJ's. I take a number eleven blade, and, with the plank standing edge, push the blade to a depth that will get the notch to where you want it on both sides. Then I pare the plank back to the notch starting about 1/4 of the way across the opening. Do this on both sides. If you have to have a deeper notch repeat this process. Then take a sanding stick the width of the opening and smooth the cutout section.
Since you are simulating the plank butts, I would do real butts on this plank so if you make a mistake in cutting, you only trash a short piece. Do the same on the top plank as well.
There will be no butts between the gun ports since they all end on a frame. On the flats, where there is no bending involved, glue all of that sections planks together off the model and then trim to final length at both ends. This will give you the smoothest set against the gun port opening.
I hope all this helps
Regards
Our Emblem ®
