lagrayjr

Hello there,
thanks for the nice comments.

Here is an update of the report:

Currently, I equip the boat from inside. Among other things, I currently mount the floorboards.
See the photos
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 127 – Main Fife Rail
 
The completed main fife is shown in the first picture.  It consists of two fore and aft rails, joined by a long athwartship rail.  All are supported on turned pillars and are drilled for belaying pins. The ends of the fore and aft rails are set in slots in the topsail sheet bitts and secured with wire bolts. The pillars also are secured top and bottom with wire bolts. The fore and aft extensions aft will eventually support the bearings for the bilge pump.
 

 
When making and fitting the sheet bitts, I neglected to cut the slots for the rails,  so these had to be cut in place.  I would normally do this with the serrated edge of a flat file, but none that I had would fit between the bulwarks, so I used a piece of hacksaw blade, sharpened up a bit to cut cleanly.  This is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The blade is supported on a sized pine block to ensure parallel cuts at the correct height.  It was also rounded to match the deck, and although not shown in this picture, it was fitted with a stop block between the bitts to keep it in place.  It would have been much easier to do this before setting the bitts, but doing it this way I can at least be assured that the rails will be at the same height.
 
In the next picture, one of the rails is being test fitted on one of the pillars.  The block used to guide the saw also proved useful in sizing the pillars.
 

 
The pillars were turned by the method used on the deck beam pillars – shown in an earlier post.  In the next picture, one of these has been turned and awaits final sanding/polishing.
 

 
The pillar is held on center by a brass tube in the tailstock chuck and the depth of cut is controlled by the larger brass tube fitted over the cross feed rail below the tool.  The next picture shows the two fore and aft rails fitted temporarily.
 

 
In the next picture the athwartship rail is set down on its wire bolts and the rails below are being marked for the lap joints that join the rails.
 

 
The rails were then removed to cut the joints.  In the last picture the completed assembly has been installed and polished.
 

 
The rail assembly was glued down and to the bitts using medium viscosity CA.  I was not confident that all these endgrain joints would stand the pressures of rigging using wood glue.  The structure is quite strong.
 
Ed

Hello friends,
 
many thanks to all for your kind comments and Likes.
 
 
Built gun ports and jamb walls.
 
 
Karl
 
 
T e i l  6

Provisional laying the beams of the lower deck
 

 

 

 

 

 

Ed, would you please comment on your two methods of finishing, beeswax versus varnish. Which do you like better? I am very interested since I need to start adding some finishes to inaccessible places on my Naiad. On some of my other models  I finished I have used sanding sealer which seems to give acceptable results. Thanks. Laman 

Ed, would you please comment on your two methods of finishing, beeswax versus varnish. Which do you like better? I am very interested since I need to start adding some finishes to inaccessible places on my Naiad. On some of my other models  I finished I have used sanding sealer which seems to give acceptable results. Thanks. Laman 

Hi Carl,
thank you for your positive comment.
Here are a few images from the current stage of construction.
Planking coming to an end.

 

 

 


The gunwale are already built.
The washstrakes is ready for installation ...

 

 
... and done.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ok here we go.
 
When cutting a brass rod with a sharp knife a burr is created, I use this both to my advantage and at one point it needs to be removed (otherwise you'll have trouble inserting the bolt in the predrilled hole. Here are the steps involved:
 
1. This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
2. The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
3. A new diagonal burr is created to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole ( I use bot 0,5 mm brass rod and a 0,5 mm steel drill to drill the holes, without the diagonal burr the fit is a bit loose)
4. Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 
Tools needed (I won't cover the use of Liver of Sulphur which I use to blacken the bolts after they are in place):
 

 
Step 1 This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
 

 
Step 2 The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
 

 
Step 3 A new diagonal burr is created by rolling a sharp blade overt he rod to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole
 

 

 
Step 4 Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 

 

 
 
I use a brass rod with a small hole in the point to push the bolt into place leaving the dome of the bolt proud to the surface. When the are all done I treat them with liver of sulphur to blacken them.
 

 
The end result (it's hard to capture but each bolt has a nice subtle dome):
 

 

 
Remco
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 120 – Main Deck Cabin 2
 
Work on the deck cabin continued.  In the first picture the starboard side has been installed and the forward bulkhead is in the process.
 

 
All the bulkheads were made to fit into the rabbet on the coaming.  In the next picture, both end bulkheads are in place and the framing for the port side is being installed.
 

 
Pine strips with wedges were used along the floor to hold the studs against the coaming at the bottom.  The reinforcing pine batten is still pasted in place.  This side of the structure will be left open for visibility into the framing below.
 
In the next picture the pine batten has been removed and masking tape has been placed on the deck framing to prevent small pieces from dropping through.  These can now be very difficult to extract.  The first of the rounded up roof rafters are being fitted.
 

 
In the next picture these have been installed.  A number of them have been fitted with hanging knees to provide some wind bracing.  This structure had to be quite strong.
 

 
In the next picture the masking tape has been removed and the tops of the end bulkheads trimmed out in readiness for the roof planking.
 

 
The next picture shows the initial strake of 3” x 7” roof planking being aligned against a straightedge and pinned in place.
 

 
There is a strake with a water stop to be fitted outside of this one, but I wanted to paint that first and use the next inner strakes for alignment.  The next picture shows that outer strake being fitted against the two initially installed planks.
 

 
In the next picture the planking has progressed almost to the centerline.
 

 
The last picture shows the finished roof.
 

 
The ends of the planks have been sanded square and notches cut through the water stop for the two transverse skid beams that will cross the roof.  The roof has been coated with acrylic sanding sealer, sanded smooth and painted with the same color blue as the waterways.  The paint is acrylic.
 
The next task is to construct the coach – the entrance to the cabin deck.
 
Ed

la vela de estay estay segundo acabado

gracias Mirabelle y Druxey.
I made the forestay, with its perfect keg in just over 1 hour, wow

gracias.
poner estay definitiva

Thank you...!
 
I started fixing the planking of the bridge:

 

 

I continued with the work on the bridge

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
I fixed also the electrical system for the feeding of small leds

 

 

 

Hi there,
Mark, Ferit, Giampiero, Jesse, and all other
thanks for your kind words and likes.

Here's a little update ...
 

 

 
Note the feed troughs in the picture:

 

 

I finished the shrouds.-start the stand. 2nd has left almost perfect- and I wonder ... I did this, wow?

Mortar Barrel continued....
 
Once the barrel had been bored, it was time to part off the workpiece to its final length and shape the base end.  A mandrel was then turned down from some aluminium bar stock, so that it was an easy slide fit in to the barrel, and this was then drilled with a 3/32” end mill, using the same set-up on the Mill as previously.  The mandrel was then placed inside the barrel and a securing pin of 3/32” brass rod was inserted to hold the mandrel securely in place. The pin was a tight push fit, which made the whole assembly quite secure.
 

 
Now it was time to break out the “secret weapon”.  The base of the Mortar Barrel is a hemisphere in shape.  I’d been pondering how to achieve this, when I discovered that Sherline make a “Radius Turning Attachment” for exactly this purpose.  Happy days – a solution to my quandary AND a new accessory!     
 
Here is a picture of the setup, showing the mortar barrel being held in a 3-jaw self-centring chuck by the temporary mandrel.  The radius turning tool is mounted on the cross slide and is quick and easy to set-up and to use.  In this picture, I’ve already started to shape the end, having taken the first couple of passes with the tool.
 

 
A few minutes later and voilà, a perfect hemisphere:
 

 
Prior to commencing to use the radius turning tool, I had used a small centre drill to mark the centre of the end of the base.  Once the radius had been turned, a 3/16” end mill was inserted in the tailstock, and a hole drilled to a depth of 5/16” – the reason will become clear shortly.
 
With this hole drilled, the workpiece was again moved across, with the chuck, onto the rotary table on the Mill, this time mounted in the horizontal position.  The 3/16” end mill was transferred to the Mill and the previously bored hole was used to index the mill table into alignment. The pin in the mandrel was used as a guide to align the barrel such that a slot could now be cut at 90-degrees to the pin. In the following picture, the slot has already been cut to the depth of the previously bored hole (ie 5/16”).
 

 
The base of the mortar barrel is an interesting configuration, and includes the trunnion bar that also blends into the mortar barrel body.  I elected to make this in two pieces, both from 3/16” square stock. The first piece would carry a trapezoid shape to blend into the barrel body, while the second piece would have its end turned into a cylindrical shape to form the trunnions.  Sounds complex, but was really quite easy.  A piece of 1/4" square stock was first re-sized to 3/16” square using the Brynes disc sander. The trapezoid shape was also achieved using the disc sander, while the trunnion bar was simply turned down on each end in the lathe.  Here is a picture of the components prior to assembly:
 

 
The pieces were then assembled and the mandrel and locating pin removed. The hole from the locating pin was filled by a mixture of PVA glue and some of those ebony shavings saved from the first part of the process.  Two handles were made by bending a piece of 1/32” brass wire, chemically blackened and epoxied in place.  Here is the final product prior to receiving a coat of Wipe-On Poly:
 

 
 
And here it is with a “test” fit to the Turntable:
 

 
The completed assembly was given a coat of Wipe-On Poly, and then posed in the firing position for a few final photos (the poly is not yet dry here, hence the slight sheen):
 

 

 
 

 
All in all, I’m well pleased with the way this turned out.  Time spent up front measuring and working out the workflow process was well invested, as was the money spent on the radius turning attachment.  Amazingly, there were no re-dos in the entire process!     Next up – the 4-pounder guns and carriages. 

......
 
                            an affectionate greeting to all   rekon54

Thank you Mark, George, Pat, Druxey, Daniel, Grant and Bob.
 
 
That must be what those guys in white coats knocking at my door want .
 
Well, here are the final pics - she's all complete. Apart from the accident with the mast the whole build went according to plan, and I am very happy with the result. So is my partner - after all, I built it as a present for her :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

That's part of the fun of ship modelling . Don't you mean "outside the bottle thinking"?
 
Thank you David, Grant and Russell.
 
With all the fixes and adjustments done to my satisfaction (not quite perfect, but hardly noticeable) it was time to add the "sea"
 
I used Digger's two-part Ultra Clear Casting Resin. It looks a little yellowy when first mixed, but dries clear when it hardens. I used a squeeze bottle to which I glued a piece of Heat-shrink tubing to get the resin into the bottle without actually tipping it in which could have been very messy. Clear tubing would have been better, but I just used what I had on hand :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Daniel, David, Russell and Greg.
 
 
Trust me Russell, this wasn't "manufactured". I'd have finished the whole thing a couple of days ago except for the accident .
 
 
We're only on the other side of the world, not on Mars Greg .
 
Well, so far so good. I've managed to get the jib stay back on and tightened. Also the forestay. The tip of the mast was a real bugger to get back on after doing the other two lines. It took some rather ingenious (if I say so myself ) special tools to help me do it.
 
From the top, a Q-Tip on a BBQ skewer used for cleaning off glue. A sliver of Scalpel blade super-glued to a skewer for trimming excess line. A piece of bent brass tubing on a handle used for applying glue. A pair of extra-long tweezers made from scrap wood :
 

 
Raising the forestay. Another tool I made was a piece of square wood with a "U" filed into the end, used as a push-stick. This holds the mast in position while I pull back on the fishing line attached to the stay. The hair clip holds the line while the glue dries :
 

 

 

 
I used the Q-tip to hold the top of the mast in position while the glue dried on the repair. The Blue-tack holds the push-stick in place :
 

 

 

 
And .... I also managed to get the Truck back onto the top of the mast :
 

 
  Danny

% of composition is probably the answer. If I would have to give it a name, I think this is probably free machining brass!
 
The longest part to turn guns is done.
4 knives  are use  for the top and bottom turning.
Lenght references are done by  a reference  wood plate, it is mucg faster this way.
The head is done first and then the inside is drilled. This operation is done as late as possible so that the opening dos not enlarge because of the live center.
The bottom part is kept  for the last part.

For a ship determined permanent residence. Russia, Izhevsk. (In this city made Kalashnikov assault rifles).

CAPTAIN PHILLIPS’ PATENT CAPSTAN
 
To this point, my build log has included detailed notes about my research into Franklin's ships, and is largely a mirror of my blog, Building HMS Terror. While I know some followers have enjoyed my research notes (thanks for all the kind words of encouragement), others find them tedious, and recreating them here every time I finish a part has become quite time consuming. 
 
 
For the remainder of my build log, I've decided to do something a little different, and keep this primarily as a photo essay of my build. I'll continue to post research notes, but those will only appear on my blog. This change will also allow me to post a few more photos here, for those who want to see more wood and metal. 
 
 
So, with that formality out of the way, here is my attempt to build plans and a model of an 1839 era improved capstan. For those interested in the historical research I conducted, please consult my blog!
 
 

An 1839 era Phillips, capstan, as I believe it may have been 
configured for use on HMS Erebus and Terror.
 

Cutting the capstan components on an Epilogue laser cutter. 
 

The completed pieces. 
 

Vellum was added to enhance the joints of the capstan.
 

The assembled capstan before sanding. 
 

Sanded to shape. 
 

Drilling the bolt locations. 
 

The completed drumhead. Some Phillips' capstan models 
show lined sockets, so I added boxwood liners. 
I admit that it was primarily an aesthetic choice. 
 

I cut the drumhead plate from an unused pipe fitting which I flared to the right size. 
 

I filed a lip into the plate by hand. 
 

I cut the pawl rim (ring) out of brass plate using a jeweler's coping saw.
 

I filed each stop by hand, after carefully scoring the brass
 

The pawl rims were each made from pipe fittings flared to the precise diameter. 
 

The pawl rim prior to soldering and sanding. 
 

The piece following soldering. I used  copper solder for the first
time on this piece - despite being very dirty, it worked well. 
 

To maintain the proper curvature, I cut the pawls from a copper fitting. 
 

The pawls cut roughly to length. 
 

Bolt holes were drilled before shaping. 
 

Each pawl was filed and shaped by hand. 
 

The completed pawl rim (ring) and pawls.
Two traits unique to Phillips' capstans can 
be seen here. First, the pawl rim was bolted through
each stop, rather than in the spaces.
Second, Phillips' capstans had between six and 
eight pawls, while earlier models typically had four. 
 

The pawlhead. 
 

The completed pawlhead with the top plate soldered in place.
Contemporary models show that the pawlheads on 
Phillips' capstans were made entirely of iron. 
 

Dry fitting the metal pieces. The pawls need some thinning here. 
 

Pieces prior to finishing and assembly. 
 

Blackening the metal parts. 
 

The metal pieces after blackening, buffing, and sealing 
(I use Krylon matte coat as a sealer). 
 

The completed capstan. The wooden pieces have been
treated with Minwax wipe-on poly. 
 
Detail of the pawl rim and pawls. 
 

The drumhead (the drop pins indicate it is in direct-drive mode).
 

Detail of the lower drop pins and drumhead plate (I couldn't find scale
chain small enough to model that feature). 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects his capstan, recalling his good times with  Parry. 

Hello,
so it goes on with the construction report.
To stow the sloop on the deck, I have to build the poultry houses. These lie between the gratings.
For construction of the poultry houses, I show you the following pictures.
I hope you enjoy the pictures.