lagrayjr

A side update... I'm doing the drawings for the ship's boats and I'll be putting one together while waiting for glue to dry on the main hull.    So as not to "interrupt the flow of things", I'll either make them a separate log like Danny did for his, or just hold off until the planking is done.  Here's a bit of where I am on these. 
 
The longboat drawings are done but still need some tweaking.  Seems that I didn't always account for kerf which I finally managed to get down to 0.015" (0.381mm).  And man, these things are tiny.  Might just be the end of me....
 
Here's two pics of the parts being cut, which is something I couldn't do on a scrollsaw to save my soul.   I tried and failed several times.

 
 
And here's the resulting parts.... the keel is 5" or 125mm long.  The keel and assorted structural members are 1/16" (1.5mm) thick cherry.  The frames (which look like bulkheads are 1/32" (0.79mm)) cherry and the other parts (knees, seats, thwarts on the upper left and upper right) are 1/32" from scrap holly but I'll have to redo them in boxwood as soon I as get some milled down.  I'm planning on using Chuck's method but gluing the bulkheads upside down into a basswood jig for handling and planking.
 
There (hopefully) will be two more boats.  A barge and cutter and all will be nested into the longboat.
 

Hi Dirk,
 
many thanks.
 
I am working continuous on the planking of the long boat:
 

 

 

 

Ed, I am proceeding nicely with the build of Naiad and have completed the fore and aft cant frames. I'm currently working on the square frames which is, as you know, slow. I have a question regarding frame construction. Square frame 6F says" third centerline on lower centerline". I am not sure how to interpret this. In addition I would like to confirm that all top timbers and 4th futtocks are10.5" side at heels. This is a great build and I thank you for writing the two books which are extremely detailed and easy to understand and follow. This summer I took a trip on the Sea Cloud built in 1931 for Marjorie Wethington Post and E.F. Hutton on the Adriatic Sea. There was a crew of a proximally 50. The ship sailed every day we were on it. One day we had a strong wind  and the ship made 11.7 knots. The ship is similar to a clipper and is square rigged. It was exciting to see the crew handled the sails etc. I am sure you would find a trip similar to this very exciting especially since you are building the Young American. The trip was through Lindblad Expeditions National Geographic which I highly recommend. Laman

Please enjoy the pics.
Best regards
Doris

Ed, I am proceeding nicely with the build of Naiad and have completed the fore and aft cant frames. I'm currently working on the square frames which is, as you know, slow. I have a question regarding frame construction. Square frame 6F says" third centerline on lower centerline". I am not sure how to interpret this. In addition I would like to confirm that all top timbers and 4th futtocks are10.5" side at heels. This is a great build and I thank you for writing the two books which are extremely detailed and easy to understand and follow. This summer I took a trip on the Sea Cloud built in 1931 for Marjorie Wethington Post and E.F. Hutton on the Adriatic Sea. There was a crew of a proximally 50. The ship sailed every day we were on it. One day we had a strong wind  and the ship made 11.7 knots. The ship is similar to a clipper and is square rigged. It was exciting to see the crew handled the sails etc. I am sure you would find a trip similar to this very exciting especially since you are building the Young American. The trip was through Lindblad Expeditions National Geographic which I highly recommend. Laman

more photos

Thanks Greg.
 
.... continued.
 
Here's a pic of the progress. The base has been fitted to the munions :
 

 
The Stool was a challenge :
 

 

 
There are several rims between the pieces. I glued each piece to some 0.5mm thick stock and sanded the edges to shape when it dried. This was then rounded with a sanding stick :
 

 
The centre munions were fitted next. There is still some sanding to be done to get the verticals down to size in this pic. The "glass" (acrylic) has been fitted :
 

 
I filed the Crank from brass strip and soldered a mounting pin on :
 

 
Nearly finished. I'll sand the edges of the verticals down to size tomorrow when the glue is completly dry :
 

 
The Vent :
 

 
Detail of the base and stool :
 

 
With the crank fitted :
 

 
 
 Danny

Hello friends.
Against my original plan,  I'm building the model in scale 1:36 instead of 
building it in scale 1:48.
This means change of plans.
Regards Karl 

Hello Carl,
thanks for the nice comment.
 
We continue the construction of the long-boat with the planking.
First, the profiled planks must be made. This is the first strake.

By heating with a soldering iron, the soaked planks can be brought into the required form.

Finally a long overdue update. My KF got little attention lately as work and other (fun) projects got in the way.
 
I cut all the mortices for the carlings in the upper deck beams and started to make the first of the knee's and hanging knees. These are not one of my favourite parts to make and unfortunately every beam has a hanging knee. This is due to the heavy load on the deck with all the canons. I'll stick to my mantra and go step by step or part by part in this case
 

 

 

 

 

 
Remco

Hello everyone, well, as I have mentioned a few posts ago, the only thing left for me to do before closing this build log is a few final pics.  Out of the roughly 50 pics I took yesterday I picked only nine.  
I want to thank everyone for following this build and your encouragement.  A special thanks to those who gave me advice and assistance in procuring photos, drawings and hardware like  Gino, Remco, Amateur Jan, Mark T.  If I missed anyone, please forgive me, I have thanked you on the spot in one of the earlier posts.
 
I will monitor this log for a short while and respond but please keep it on topic.  If you have questions send me a PM and I'll answer to the best of my ability.
 
I have really enjoyed doing this build with all of you looking over my shoulder.  Your friendship I will treasure and hopefully I'll see you all again in my VOC ship dockyard.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
 

Hello, dear friends!
Thank you for your kind words and support.
I appreciate your comments very much.
 
The five "Baille à Drisse" I have finished in the meantime.
To get an idea, I have placed the five container on the deck.

 

 

 

Hello,
 
many thanks for your nice comments.
By the way, that's not a 18 pounder, but a 30 pound carronade.
 
After burnishing is the "Baille à Drisse" completed.

Equipped with a coil of rope, it looks like this:
 

 

 

great! will follow with interest  Laman

Hi friends,
many thanks for the comments and Likes.
 
 
 
Unfortunately, a picture with three model segments of the BHR is not possible together.
Every model segment is for itself in a seperate glass cabinet / protective bonnet and
stand on different places.
Here, however, some pictures of my private ship model -museum.
 
Karl 

LASER CUTTING TERROR’S BULKHEADS
 
I have arrived at the stage of my build where I am assembling the bulkheads that will give shape to the ship’s hull. I have already created bulkheads for this model using the traditional method – gluing the plans to plywood and cutting them out using a scroll saw. 
 

The old bulkheads - cut using a scroll saw (prior to sanding). 
 
However, I recently decided to change the way I will construct the bow of the model. I had originally modified the forward stations to account for the extra bolsters and planking at the bow, but I've recently decided to try to build these fittings (as a means to determine how Rice actually reinforced Terror against the ice). This necessitated rebuilding the two most forward station bulkheads. 
 
And this gave me an excuse for a whole new mini-project.
 
Following a current trend, my local public library recently opened a prototyping studio, which includes design software, 3D printers, and an Epilogue Mini 24 Laser Cutter. The library allows you to book the equipment for several hours each month - for free. I've wanted to experiment with a laser cutter for some time, and since I needed to make new bulkheads anyway, I decided to recut all of them. My hope was that it would result in a more accurate build.
 

The Epilogue Mini 24 Laser Cutter. The bed capacity is 12" x 24". 
 
The cutter works very much like a traditional printer and will engrave (raster) or cut (vector) based on the thickness of the lines shown in the image file (I used high resolution PDFs for this). My first attempt, using factory recommended settings, was somewhat of a disaster, resulting in charred and smoldering wood and unusable pieces (plywood is notoriously difficult to cut because of its inconsistent composition).
 

My first disastrous attempt. Note the burned and charred edges.
 
For my second attempt, I conducted some tests and determined the proper power settings needed to cut 5mm plywood with the thinnest, most accurate, cuts and a minimum of charring and burning [1].
 

As a test, I cut a series of discs with different power settings. 
 

The appearance of the cut edge with the proper settings (no charring). 
 

I engraved the station markings on each bulkhead.  The machine automatically engraves before cutting.
 

The bulkheads being cut. 
 

You can tell the cut was successful if the part drops away from the sheet.
 

A finished sheet. 
 

Each bulkhead fits into slots on the false keel. 
 

The bulkheads slide snugly into place.
 

Test assembly proceeds. This is just a dry -fit. 
 

The bulkheads dry-fitted in place. They need to be properly aligned, but I'm
happy with the run already. Mini-Crozier allows us to visualize how large
Terror actually was (quite small for a Royal Navy vessel).
 

A view from the bow.
 

This view shows the run of the ice channels very nicely.
 

A top-side view from the stern. The bulkheads are just dry-fitted
here and will need to be aligned properly before gluing. 
 
I am very pleased with my experience using the laser cutter. The bulkheads are much more accurate than I could have produced by hand, and the process took about a tenth of the time normally required to cut and sand these parts. I will certainly be using it again when I need to cut more complex shapes and components for my build. 
 
Footnotes:
[1] For those interested, low speed, power, and PPI settings are a must, and the recommended wood settings for the Epilogue Laser will not work on plywood. Your goal should be a setting that will just barely cut completely through the wood, as this results in the thinnest cuts and edges that are browned, but not charred. My settings for good quality 5mm birch plywood were: Speed = 10, Power = 38, and PPI(Frequency) = 150.

Hi Albert,
thank you for the nice comment.
 
So it goes on with the construction report.
 
To rig the 18 pounder I'm still researching on with respect to the breeching ropes. Was this right laid or left laid?
In the meantime, I'm doing the "Baille à Drisse", some sort of container for
coiling of ropes, such as the topsail-haylard.
On the French Corvette was thereof a total of 5 units available. 2 pieces each in front of the foremast and the mainmast and 1 piece in front of the mizzen mast.
Here I show the detail of the plan by J. Boudriot.

This is an example of this container on the model of the Belle Poule from the Musée national de la Marine in Paris.

For the French corvette I make the container of sheet brass. The upper and lower parts were etched. The drawing for the film I made myself. The etching is done by a service provider.
After assembly, the part is still burnished. But thereof next time more.

 

 

Continuation: Rigging the 18-pounder
All components for rigging of the four 18-pounder guns of La Créole were completed.

   
You can see the double and single blocks of Seitentaljen, the eyebolt and the hooks on the inside are attached to the bulwark and the block hook, for hooking the tackles on gun and the bulwark.

 
Until next time ...

Hello,
thanks for the nice comments.
It is a great pleasure again and again.

Here I show you how I make the blocks for the 18 pounder.
For this I use a primitive holding device so that I can bring each block with a file in form.

 

Hello,
I am very glad for your positive comments, thank you for that.
 
So here are all the hooks before they are blackened.

The next picture illustrates a comparison between the 1st version 2 and version
of the block with hook.

Hello Mark,
thank you for your nice comment.
Meanwhile, I made the blanks for the hooks.
And in the other I make the hooks for inboard.

 

Hello,
thank you very much for your nice comments.
 
The hooks so far prepared are not optimized in shape.

The original hooks were forged from iron. They had thickened and dilutions. The shape is very special, as can be seen in the next picture.

Therefore, I have my previous manufacturing method refined.
On the next screen, the procedure is shown in 7 steps.

In the meantime got the double block the sheaves and the pin.

 

 

 

 

Equip the blocks with sheaves poses a particular challenge.
So I tried it.
Whether it is visible after the pull through of the rope, who knows?
The sheaves have a diameter of 2.5 mm and a thickness of 0.45 mm.          

Hi friends,
 
Completion of the main mast
 
with shrouds and ratlines.
 
Karl   
 
 
 
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