sonicmcdude

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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 67 – Lower deck framing continued
 
I had my small camera in the shop so I took this first picture with it.  It shows one of my more important tools.  No one would design this contraption this way from scratch.  It was first just a simple fixture to allow me to take overhead sequential shots during Naiad’s magazine construction.  It has since evolved into the adjustable mount shown below.  You can get seasick looking at some of the pictures taken with this but they can easily be rotated in post processing.  I take very many pictures including lots of in-hull close-ups and could not do without this thing. 
 

 
I take all the photos in available light using aperture priority so the camera is stopped down to increase depth of field.  Thus, the shutter speeds are quite slow requiring a mount.  Most of the pictures are still taken using an almost-normal tripod.
 
Pardon the digression, but I thought it might be of interest, since we cannot build ships any more without photography.
 
Back to the work.  In the next picture the beams are progressing forward.
 

 
The large opening is for the larger of the two rectangular, vertical fresh water tanks.  The half-beams and headers are pinned in place at this point.  The next picture shows a hanging knee glued to one of the half-beams. 
 

 
This knee was fit before the knee on the beam forward was in the way, but it will be glued in after that beam is installed.  The difficulty in holding these knees under the beams for fitting dictates some preplanning.
 
In the next picture all is installed on the starboard side and a pillar assembly is being marked for sizing under the beam.
 

 
In the next picture both pillars with their knees have been installed on the starboard side.
 

 
Next is a picture of the same area from further back.
 

 
In the next picture the beam forward of the smaller water tank has been glued in and the headers on either side are being installed with the help of a clamp.. 
 

 
The pillars on the port side have also been installed in this picture.  These last three beams all require lodging knees and ledges.  The last picture shows the current status of the framing.
 

 
Two full beams and two pair of half-beams remain to be installed to fill the void.
 
 
 Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 66 – Lower deck framing continued
 
For those not yet exhausted by pictures of the inching along of the lower deck framing, here are some photos showing the latest progress.  In the first picture bolts have been installed in the tops of most of the forward beams.
 

 
The bolts represent fastenings for the hanging knees and the knees at the tops of the pillars.  There is also a bolt down through the beam into each pillar itself.  The next picture is a closer view of the bolts.
 

 
The glue – epoxy or CA – has not yet been sanded off in this picture.  The next picture shows bolting on the beams just ahead of the mizzenmast.  In this picture most of the glue has been sanded off.
 

 
The black bolts are dummies of black monofilament glued in with CA.  The shiny copper wire bolts are functional.  That is, they are epoxied through the beam into the members below and are lending strength to the glue joints of the hanging knees, the pillars and the beams themselves to the clamps.  The top of the framing will get a final leveling and final sanding after the ledges are installed.
 
The next picture is another view of this area.
 

 
The next picture shows the framing forward of the mainmast. 
 

 
Carlings have been installed back to the last beam with a pillar installed.  All of the lodging knees have been installed.  Hanging knees have been fitted to the two beams lying on the deck.  They will be the last to be installed.  At that point there will be no room for fitting the knees under the installed beams.  In the next picture almost all of the ledges have been installed in the aft section.
 

 
Note the irregular pattern of central ledges over the mizzenmast step.  Apparently these ships had supporting partners only at the main deck, so the mast opening is just framed on this deck.
 
The last picture shows another view of the forward framing.
 

 
The remaining framework gets more interesting.  There are a lot of half-beams and double pillars astride the main mast, main hatch and the water tanks.
 
 Ed

That tool is good to take from tailors. They call it "radla"

 
In Belgrade it sells in textil, wool, etc shops

Alone at home again, and , as it is known ... right to shipyard ( where else would ?)

(“people learn to love their chains.”. ... adequate quotation from Daenerys Targaryen)

One more, and maybe, last test before "coopering"

Strips are 3x10mm. In scale, they have to be less than 2 mm wide, but, in my opinion, "rivets" are invisible in that scale, so I decided to enlarge them a little - to about 3mm

Tools I use for "riveting" One with thin top, and another with little thicker top



First, I tried with "long" strips



I don't think so. Vertical edges ( "drawn" with tools from rear side) are not visible enough, and it is hard to line longs strips

And then, with shorts strips, with different technique of "riveting"



Field "1" - riveting from back side with thick top tool

Field "2" - riveting from back side with thin top tool

Field "3" - without riveting, to compare with another fields

Field "4" - riveting from front side with thick top tool

Field "5" - riveting from front side with thin top tool

Whole test piece is covered with mat varnish

Field "1" and "2", I think rivets are almost invisible
Field "4" and "5", I think there is no big difference on that scale

And I think that is definitely - this
But, there is another issue to think about before start

Whole think is pretty sensitive to accidentally scratches. In picture above, I did "scratch" test with my nail, and look what happened



It means, that I must figure something ... as Her statement right now, and I am thinking about something similar like on picture above ... There is a lot of time until I finish coopering to think and re-think this many times



And here is how test piece matches to Her Majesty









She said to me that She will like this dress ...

And added that She is tired of wearing underwear only

Woman ...

Maybe, however 2 mm ????

Nice working progress today. Make a coffee, take cigarettes, and move down with will and inpatience 
First I make rudder, and fit it to the shape and dimensions, carefully considering position of rudder axis
 
It was pretty easy
 
 

 

 

 
Then starts tricky job - drilling and positioning of hole in stern. After a while, success, but I realized that I must correct: a) angle of stern post width of stern post c) shape of curve on a stern post to be equiall as on rudder 
 
Sanding, "dremelling" , sanding, and rudder fits on its place, with enough space between rudder and stern post for hinge and fittings 
 

 

 

 

 
Next I realized, is that I have to correct end of a keel
 
Follow "deep" surgery, but it was not hard as earlier
 

 

 
And I am satisfied - profile view is exactly I wanted to get, and pretty similar as on plans-pictures
 
And after that, waiting for glue to dry, I did some coopering tests, on testing piece of rudder I made couple of days before
 
Hmmmmmm ( again)
 

 

 
In this testing  "cooper strips" are 5x10 mm. It seems that it has to be little more narrow - 4mm, and it means -  for 1/5 of their number more ... 
 
Next tests are in line to be done, this is TOO MUCH SHINEY

Popeye, interesting is that rudder from earlier pictures slightly is different than rudder in fresh pictures after final restoration. Maybe at the first time when She was settled in dry dock, She still kept old working rudder, and after fire, maybe naval architects think about aesthetic dimension of rudder look. Who knows, but things are like they are. In C-plans ( or I am blind) I didnt find crossection of rudder in any level
 
Thank you Dave, I am glad that somebody find this novel interesting and usefull, even with all my mess
 
To continue with rudder consideration
 
At first, having in mind "sqared" and "roundend" profile, all thing must be made of harder/stronger wood (not from linen wood I made first). Never mind, in any case whole rudder will be covered with coopering and black paint. So I dive into original kit box, and find two 35 years old adequate pieces made of beech, which will be just fine. One rounded, another squared. Have no idea about that pieces - what was their purpose
 

 

 
Next step is to glue them together, with intend to process them tomorrow with "dremell thing" to proper shape and dimesnions. Maybe I ll add some strenghtening, I ll see tomorow
 

 
In this way, question of vertical axis position seem to be resolved, and it will not be hard to remove excess of material to the square profile, also to round square profile at the top. If there appear some lack of thickness, there is always planking to help. 
 
Ah, yes, there is a hole in stern to be drilled, and a little "ring" mask at entrance of rudder
 
BTW, digging in old kit box, I find original offered rudder bonds ... 4 mm wide ?!?!?!? To much wide. According to C-plans, in my scale they have to be max 2mm wide, rater 1,5 mm

Further analyzing C-plans ... and Lou`s material
 
Rudder axis passing through the axis of the hinges
 

 
And as picture said - rudder carrier has a square cross-section
 

 
but on picture Lou published - cross section is rounded ( inside ?)
 

 
 
 

Some photos from last night
Just wish I had managed to mount the lift cylinders
 
I did get out this morning and picked up some real M5 x 25mm bolts and washers at Fastenal

For those who may not wish to go to the trouble of making their own serving machines there is one available from Shipahoy Models based in Boston USA.

 

I came across the link on the old MSW. Here are the contact details.
 
Robert Prezioso shipahoymodels@yahoo.com
 
B.E.
 
 

Here's the newest addition to my shipyard. A 360 degree turntable. It's a pull out TV turntable.

When little mouse or little lizard come in house, Admiral  literary jump/climb on highest place She can reach screaming ... just like in cartoons ... first time it happened I can not believe what I see. That is main reason we have a cat in house last 27 years ...
 
And when young cat hunt his first mouse and bring it to home to show it, that is a real comedy ...   

Thx, we are high, safe and dry, but looking news ... water and floods in places never expected ...

The other bit of progress achieved before I started my log was to install and plank the upper gun deck. Since then I have made the various fittings, including gratings, bitts and the stove.
 
Like most kits the gratings come as notched strips like coarse combs. I found the easiest way to assemble these was to fit them together dry and then to dip them in dilute PVA. Once the glue had set I trimmed off the excess timber and sanded the top, bottom and sides. Here are some step by step photos:
 

 
Some of the gratings dry-assembled. A 'grid' is made to suit the overall size of each grating:
 

 
Next the gratings were dipped in dilute PVA and then the excess dabbed away using kitchen towel:
 



 
Finally each grating was trimmed and sanded smooth:
 

 
Once this stage was complete I added the coamings around each hatch, some of which incorporate the openings for the companionways between decks. 
 

 
Here is an example of one in situ. The corners were cut square and butted. I believe the real ones were half-lapped at the corners, but I didn't think this would be visible at this scale.
 
And here are a few more. On some of these you can see that i have added shot garlands along the sides.
 



 
Rob

Leeetle update.... I almost finish with the outside and inside fairing (You can see the hull on some parts it looks like the creature from Frankenstein because I sand to deep and then I glued some thin strips of wood I think is a boo boo). For rough sanding I use a small disc sander attach on the rotary tool. The small disc is made out a bottle  cap  cut to a disc with oversize sandpaper glued on. I "steal"  this idea from The Matthew project  and is work really good not only for fairing but almost for any sanding. Here are some pictures

Hi all... this is my recently started build of the complete model POB of the Triton...here are some pictures...

Hi All. Well the infamous "set up"   has been completed and I finally got my lazy
butt in gear and took some pictures of the finished bomb vessel.  
 
It has been a great "little" project that I had a lot of fun with. I hope you enjoyed it too.
 
Thank you for all your comments and likes. It means more than I can express.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Final deck sanding complete, and some color tests done
 

 

 
Notice: Curvatures of caulking lines ........ camera see them, but they are not so visible with eye and from distance, and there will be lot of stuff over them, and deck will be colored and probably weathered. No way to do this third time. In next model
 

Final sanded foredeck with 220, 280 and 400 sandpaper granulation, after applying "wooden mod" technique

FYI - two additional section views of the manual pivot
 
(let's hope nothing flies off the table my friend)

Here are four snap shots of the model I created for my movable, pivot top, walk around modelling table.
*** If anyone see something amiss please let me know ***
 
This table will adjust a full 15.7" (40 cm) in height from 29" to 44.7" (74 cm to 114 cm)
The website says the lift cylinders require a minimum load of 35 lbs (15.8 kg) on each cylinder to operate and will lift 750 lbs (340 kg) total weight
 
The darker looking table top area is stationary measuring 24" x 36" (61 cm x 91 cm)
The lighter looking table top area presently pivoted measuring 24" x 48" (61 cm x 122 cm)
The pivoting top will adjust in 5° increments from 0° (flat and level with the fixed top) to 60°
It will pivot from either the front or the back (both ways, only one shown)
I envision four simple sliding bolt pivot pins (not drawn up yet) to make this work.
 
I intend to mount a sacrificial finished 3/4" (19 mm) plywood top on top of a 3/4" (19 mm) sub-base (total top thickness 1-1/2" = 38 mm)
This means I can replace the finished top at any time via a few screws or bolts if every I need to.
 
The four rectangular cut outs at the ends of the table frame are for electrical outlet boxes
 
The underside view shows the pump/motor unit, controller box and button station
Not shown is the wiring and flexible tubing that would connect everything
The lift cylinders are mounted inside the four legs
I've left the foot pads on as the supplier (SUSPA.com) did not have caster models or dimensions on their website
Once I receive the items I can get the size of the caster and adjust my leg lengths if necessary
 
No cabinet of drawers.
I'll have to pick up a small rolling drawer cabinet later.
I'll mount my florescent light fixture overhead off the floor joists (I'll be in my basement)
 
I hope to receive the lift kit next week and start my table build in a couple weeks
Will post photos then!
 
Alan
 

I soldered brass nails to the hinges, filed them on the inside and then proceeded to blacken all the brass parts that I have made. My failure to properly clean them can be seen on the uppermost brass plate. I should have used a toothbrush and toothpaste to clean flux residues, rinse and then soak them in acetone before using the patina liquid.

 
I got a little bit of spare time and decided to make a bucket with leftovers from planking.

 
I also made a cradle for the model and cut a thin plywood board for deck planking.

More metal work... two lanterns. Unfortunately, I don't have a lathe so I had to make them the hard way with a brass sheet, solder and a lot of filing. Now, I need to figure out how to simulate red and green glass...

carving work

... and finally it looks like that.
 
Dražen