sonicmcdude

Here are four snap shots of the model I created for my movable, pivot top, walk around modelling table.
*** If anyone see something amiss please let me know ***
 
This table will adjust a full 15.7" (40 cm) in height from 29" to 44.7" (74 cm to 114 cm)
The website says the lift cylinders require a minimum load of 35 lbs (15.8 kg) on each cylinder to operate and will lift 750 lbs (340 kg) total weight
 
The darker looking table top area is stationary measuring 24" x 36" (61 cm x 91 cm)
The lighter looking table top area presently pivoted measuring 24" x 48" (61 cm x 122 cm)
The pivoting top will adjust in 5° increments from 0° (flat and level with the fixed top) to 60°
It will pivot from either the front or the back (both ways, only one shown)
I envision four simple sliding bolt pivot pins (not drawn up yet) to make this work.
 
I intend to mount a sacrificial finished 3/4" (19 mm) plywood top on top of a 3/4" (19 mm) sub-base (total top thickness 1-1/2" = 38 mm)
This means I can replace the finished top at any time via a few screws or bolts if every I need to.
 
The four rectangular cut outs at the ends of the table frame are for electrical outlet boxes
 
The underside view shows the pump/motor unit, controller box and button station
Not shown is the wiring and flexible tubing that would connect everything
The lift cylinders are mounted inside the four legs
I've left the foot pads on as the supplier (SUSPA.com) did not have caster models or dimensions on their website
Once I receive the items I can get the size of the caster and adjust my leg lengths if necessary
 
No cabinet of drawers.
I'll have to pick up a small rolling drawer cabinet later.
I'll mount my florescent light fixture overhead off the floor joists (I'll be in my basement)
 
I hope to receive the lift kit next week and start my table build in a couple weeks
Will post photos then!
 
Alan
 

I soldered brass nails to the hinges, filed them on the inside and then proceeded to blacken all the brass parts that I have made. My failure to properly clean them can be seen on the uppermost brass plate. I should have used a toothbrush and toothpaste to clean flux residues, rinse and then soak them in acetone before using the patina liquid.

 
I got a little bit of spare time and decided to make a bucket with leftovers from planking.

 
I also made a cradle for the model and cut a thin plywood board for deck planking.

More metal work... two lanterns. Unfortunately, I don't have a lathe so I had to make them the hard way with a brass sheet, solder and a lot of filing. Now, I need to figure out how to simulate red and green glass...

carving work

... and finally it looks like that.
 
Dražen

Oh ... I have been just promoted to Captain !
 
Drink for everybody !!!!

I finally made a proper case for my ropewalk
 

 

 
I just made it out of some simple wood and plexiglass
 
 

I've done a mock up of the table top
 
The table top is 32" deep x 72" long
The rotating top is 24" x 48"
 
I'm thinking simple sliding bolts to lock all motions in position.
 
working on the cabinet now
 
All image descriptions on in the image title

Further carefull analyze of photos lead to two addditional conclusions
 
1. rounded molding has to be little wider verticaly
2. behind rounded molding, there is some kind of frame, made of molding which is a biit "older" than deck planking ( arrows on picture )
 

 
Rounded molding I did yesterday does not match, and , oh what a supprise , it was not glued properly
 
So, it had to be removed
 
And then start little conversation between me and me. I ask myself : can you do, or are you able to do something, at least try to do, to look as, at least to look like work of real master ? Another me didn`t know what to say, so first me decided to try
 
And here is result, after 3,5 hours of working, so I wait your opinion
 

 

 
Colours are unadequate and dont match, and that will stay until whole decking get final colour
 
Maybe just a little bit of sanding ? Or it is only because macro photographing 

... few details.
 
Dražen

NIBBING TIME !!!!
 

Bindy and David ...

Do you feel quilty ?
 
You lead me to the evil

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 51 – Port side ceiling continued
 
It has been about a week since the last post.  Seems longer.  Work has been progressing, but most of it is similar to work covered in earlier posts, so there has not been much of interest to add.  The first picture shows the bilge ceiling being installed under the lower deck clamp aft on the port side.
 

 
At this stage all of the iron strapping is in place on both sides, so now it’s a matter of keeping it undamaged until it is covered by the various internal planking and clamps.  The next picture shows some of the lower strakes of the thick bilge ceiling being installed.
 

 
A fair amount of clamping is required to pull these 8” x 8” timbers into place and hold them there while the glue dries.  The deck clamps have been extended concurrently with work on the ceiling.  This can be seen in the next picture, which shows the current state of the model.
 

 
Below is another view showing the open areas in the bilge ceiling.  Later, nine frames in each of these sections and an aft section will be removed up to the height of the middle deck clamps.
 

 
The entire bilge ceiling is complete in this picture.  The thinner floor ceiling planking has not yet begun on the port side.  The next picture shows a closer view of the central view port area.
 

 
All of the bilge ceiling has been leveled out and given a preliminary sanding to allow the remaining iron (copper wire)  bolts to be installed.  All of the bolts have been installed in the completed deck clamps.
 
The last picture shows the starboard lower hull. 
 

 
In this picture the protruding bolts installed thus far have been filed and sanded off.  There are many more to install as the inside work continues.  The bolts are relatively invisible at this stage but will be much more prominent when etched black. 
 
The next step is to plank the floor area on the port side.
 
Ed
 

more photos

Hi all,
 
I've managed to get a little bit done - the following would normally have taken me about half a day, instead I've spent nearly three days on these pieces. At least I can still do SOMETHING .
 
Fore Jeer Bitts
 
The Fore Jeer Bitts on Vulture are similar to the Fore Topsail Sheet Bitts, except they don't continue down to the upper deck. There is no room for Standards on them either as the hatch behind them is wider than most other Swan Class ships :
 

 
I've also made and fitted 22 Eyebolts - 10 around the Foremast, 8 in the bulwarks adjacent to the mast, and 4 in the Breast Beam :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

And a drink to everybody !
 
Of course, popcorns
 
 
Today is littlle thing to celebrate: over 30.000 visits to topic and at the same time promotion in rank
 
 
 
Thanks everybody for support, interesting and likes

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 48 – Starboard Ceiling Treenailing and Bolting
 
In the first picture, the floor ceiling planking is installed except for Treenailing.  The thicker bilge ceiling above it  has been completed up to the underside of the lower deck clamp, except for the bolting.
 
 
 
While the last few strakes of bilge ceiling were being installed both the bolting and treenailing was begun.  The next picture shows some of these fasteners installed.
 

 
The copper wire bolts in the thicker ceiling show as bright dots in this picture.  They were iron bolts driven through each frame and riveted flush inside and out.  Before finish is applied these will be blackened.  This section of floor planking below the thicker strakes has been treenailed and some sanding has begun.  The butt ends of these planks were secured with iron blunts, represented here by black monofilament CA glued in.
 
All of the tree nailing was completed in three sessions that included making the treenail strips from bamboo skewers.  In the next picture one of these .020” strips has been dipped in glue and is being inserted into a predrilled hole.
 

 
The holes are just large enough for a slip fit.  After pressing to the bottom of the hole using the clippers, the strip is cut off as shown below, the new end is sharpened with a razor blade and the process is repeated a few hundred times.
 

 
The excess glue is washed off with clean water.  When dry the nail heads are filed off flush as shown below.
 

 
The planking was then sanded with 120-grit followed by 220-grit paper and then buffed with Scotchbrite as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the area at the stern after these steps.
 

 
The next picture shows a section of the ceiling after all of the treenailing was installed and the planking sanded and buffed. 
 

 
The wire bolting of the thicker strakes is only partially complete on the right side of this picture. The treenails are not too pronounced in this picture, but they will “pop out” and be more visible when finish is applied later.  The iron bolts at the butts are quite visible here.  The copper bolts into the top of the keelson at the lower margin of the picture were copper and will not be blacked.
 
All of the ceiling work on the starboard side is now complete.  The next step will be to sand down the bolts on the outside of the frames and then move on to the ceiling on the port side.
 
 Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 47 – Bilge and Floor Ceiling
 
The first picture shows the 8” thick bilge ceiling being extended up the underside of the lower deck clamp.  The clamp would have been edge bolted down into these thick members.  With the clamps and frames they formed a sort of girder over the length of the hull to combat hogging.
 

 
I mentioned earlier that these 8” x 8” bilge ceiling members required some serious clamping to close their joints.  The next picture shows some remodeled clamps used to assist in this work.
 

 
In these clamps the old jaws were replaced with stronger versions.  I used the strongest wood I could find in my old scraps collection.  The dark colored jaws are black walnut and the lighter ones hickory from and old axe handle.  The walnut clamps had the ends of their jaws narrowed down to fit between the frames from the outside.  The next picture shows a pair of these being used to close up a joint.
 

 
Up near the deck clamp, soft pine wedges could be used to close the joints as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the hull inverted so the epoxy bolts on the outside could be sanded off – to help save my hands when working from the outside.  There are many more of these bolts to add as the bilge ceiling progresses.
 

 
The next picture shows the first few strakes of 4” thick floor ceiling installed.  The contortions from the convex to the concave hull shape made this interesting at the ends.
 

 
All of this 4” and 8” thick ceiling was of hard pine, so I am using Castello for it.  Pear is being used for all oak.  The next picture shows a strake being installed using .021" pleating pins in tight drilled holes to hold it in place when glued.
 

 
The dark area is wet from washing off glue from between the strakes.  One edge of these planks is coated with dark brown latex paint (before ripping) and dark glue has been used on that face.  Plain yellow glue was used on the frames and washed off from the outside between the frames with a wet toothbrush.  In the next picture the floor ceiling has been completed down to the limber channel.
 

 
Several stealers had to be installed so the final strake would be parallel to the keelson.  The next picture shows the limber channel.
 

 
When this picture was taken, the planking had been leveled out with rifflers and some sanding.  Bolts were then installed at the ends of each plank.  Each plank will next be treenailed at every frame.  Can’t wait.
 
 
 Ed

Maybe this is off topic, but this guy made a mill from scrach and I think is for wax but if you can replace the small motor with a rotary tool is going to be strong enough for wood. Here are some pictures ....

Thanks again Grant, Allan, Bug, David, Guy and Alex - your comments are very welcome .
 
Allan and David - I'm intending to fully mast and rig the ship (if I live that long ).
 
Entry Steps 
 
There are six Entry Steps per side - I'm only fitting the Port side.
 
To avoid making yet another Molding Scraper (which would have been very difficult to use around the ends of the steps in any case) I've made each step in two pieces using English Box. I used a previously made scraper to shape the lower portions, along with needle files and Xacto knife.
 

 

 

 
The two steps on the black Wales have been stained with Ebony wood stain - real Ebony didn't like my scraper very much, too much chipping out happened when I tried it on a sample piece :
 

 

 
Each step needed a varying degree of bevel sanded into it's inboard face to match the shape of the hull at that point.
 
  Danny

I have managed to put all those spindle/balusters/balustindles to good use!   A little error in my planning led to less work - only 80 spindles were needed.
I've made and installed more of the decorations as well.
 

 

 

Thanks to the tape idea, I've finished the first 60 balusters for the top taffrail. I'll be making the railing and installing these soon.
 
 

Just a small update. The quarter gallery doors and windows/lights have been carved, painted and installed on both the port and starboard. 
The wood bases for the quarter gallery taffrails has also been installed - now to make approximately 120 tiny spindles for these railings. (spindles is probably not the correct nautical term - please feel free to tell me the correct one)
 

 

So, here is the repair.
There is a very faint light line across the middle of the stem piece that is much more visible in the photo (if you click to enlarge) than to the naked eye.
The repair was easier than expected, since all the breaks were extremely clean. I was so intent to get it fixed that I neglected to include the process!! I drilled both parts of the stem and used toothpicks as dowels, then glued them together. The trickiest part was measuring the receiving holes in the main stem for the broken part containing the dowels. (I used a very, very low tech and unusual method with exceptional results)
 

 

 
I was almost ready for an update just before the "great crash". The columns were fashioned and installed along with the edge piece for the quarterdeck. Also the shell decoration was fashioned and installed at the stern top.
 

 

 
The last of the gratings are now finished and installed.
 

 

 
I found some wonderful bead holders in the jewelry section of Michael's then flatened them and cut parts away to achieve the desired leaf shapes for both sides of the round gun ports.
 

 

 
The exacto knife was put into action again, carving some of the stern decorations. At 1:96 scale, the inner vine and leaf pattern I wanted was just too small to carve, so I coated fine rigging line with white glue and fashioned the vines and leaves that way. I am pleased with the end result since it was to be painted gold anyway.
 

 

 

 

 
There you have it, repairs and a little progress too.
 
 
(Forgot to add that I am now experimenting with gun port linings just in case anyone spots the two that I have temporarily test fitted and forgot to remove for the photos)