CDR_Ret

I usually type in the text for a post in its entirety and leave a space (Return) between paragraphs. Then I upload the images I want to include in the post. This is a separate and preliminary action to actually inserting the image. Their thumbnails appear in a row in the UPLOADED IMAGES section below the text window.
 
Next, you place the cursor at the location to insert the image within the text (usually at one of the blank lines). And finally, hover your cursor over the image you want to insert, then click on the "Insert" button that appears.
 
That action inserts the image into the post. The default alignment is left-aligned. You can center the image by ensuring your cursor is adjacent to the image and then left-clicking the center alignment icon in the formatting row at the top of the post.
 
You can also resize the image after it is inserted by double-clicking it. You can only make it smaller than its original size. And make sure the "Keep original aspect ratio" checkbox is checked, otherwise your image will be distorted if you change the width.
 
Terry

Thanks everyone for the advice. I just used it successfully on my 'build' post.  ☺️

I usually type in the text for a post in its entirety and leave a space (Return) between paragraphs. Then I upload the images I want to include in the post. This is a separate and preliminary action to actually inserting the image. Their thumbnails appear in a row in the UPLOADED IMAGES section below the text window.
 
Next, you place the cursor at the location to insert the image within the text (usually at one of the blank lines). And finally, hover your cursor over the image you want to insert, then click on the "Insert" button that appears.
 
That action inserts the image into the post. The default alignment is left-aligned. You can center the image by ensuring your cursor is adjacent to the image and then left-clicking the center alignment icon in the formatting row at the top of the post.
 
You can also resize the image after it is inserted by double-clicking it. You can only make it smaller than its original size. And make sure the "Keep original aspect ratio" checkbox is checked, otherwise your image will be distorted if you change the width.
 
Terry

I usually type in the text for a post in its entirety and leave a space (Return) between paragraphs. Then I upload the images I want to include in the post. This is a separate and preliminary action to actually inserting the image. Their thumbnails appear in a row in the UPLOADED IMAGES section below the text window.
 
Next, you place the cursor at the location to insert the image within the text (usually at one of the blank lines). And finally, hover your cursor over the image you want to insert, then click on the "Insert" button that appears.
 
That action inserts the image into the post. The default alignment is left-aligned. You can center the image by ensuring your cursor is adjacent to the image and then left-clicking the center alignment icon in the formatting row at the top of the post.
 
You can also resize the image after it is inserted by double-clicking it. You can only make it smaller than its original size. And make sure the "Keep original aspect ratio" checkbox is checked, otherwise your image will be distorted if you change the width.
 
Terry

I usually type in the text for a post in its entirety and leave a space (Return) between paragraphs. Then I upload the images I want to include in the post. This is a separate and preliminary action to actually inserting the image. Their thumbnails appear in a row in the UPLOADED IMAGES section below the text window.
 
Next, you place the cursor at the location to insert the image within the text (usually at one of the blank lines). And finally, hover your cursor over the image you want to insert, then click on the "Insert" button that appears.
 
That action inserts the image into the post. The default alignment is left-aligned. You can center the image by ensuring your cursor is adjacent to the image and then left-clicking the center alignment icon in the formatting row at the top of the post.
 
You can also resize the image after it is inserted by double-clicking it. You can only make it smaller than its original size. And make sure the "Keep original aspect ratio" checkbox is checked, otherwise your image will be distorted if you change the width.
 
Terry

Yep!  I do what sounds like a "mix" of what James, Micha and Terry all do, and we are all arriving at the same finished entry.  But I have never used the drag-and-drop, either.  I will "prep" my pictures ahead of time using my PC's Photos app, doing all of the cropping, resizing, etc. there.  Then, when I am creating a post, I will add all the photos I intend to use in that post at once, so the picture thumbnails appear in the UPLOADED IMAGES section below the text window.
 
Then, as I am typing text, if I want to place a picture at a specific location after a paragraph, I hit enter so that the cursor is on a new line and then click the picture I want to insert.  Boom!  If I know I want to center the picture, I will hit the center alignment icon either before or after placing the picture.  If you do that, though, and after inserting the picture, be sure to click back on the left-align icon, or all your continuing text will be centered, as well.
 
One caveat to this procedure, though... if you don't place all of the pictures you have "pre-chosen" and are in the UPLOADED IMAGES section somewhere into your reply, they will auto-load at the end of your entry once you hit SUBMIT REPLY.  If that happens, you can edit your reply entry and either delete it if no longer wanting to post it or re-insert it wherever you like by placing the cursor where you want it and click the picture, then deleting where it got stuck at the end.  Sorry if this got too wordy in my explanation version! 
 
EDIT:  I re-reading PvG's initial query, it sounds like he is doing fine with the upload, but then just not "telling" his text reply where he wanted the picture specifically placed, so they are all dumping at the end, as I noted in my last paragraph.  So... ignore my first two paragraphs of yapping! 🤣🤣

I usually type in the text for a post in its entirety and leave a space (Return) between paragraphs. Then I upload the images I want to include in the post. This is a separate and preliminary action to actually inserting the image. Their thumbnails appear in a row in the UPLOADED IMAGES section below the text window.
 
Next, you place the cursor at the location to insert the image within the text (usually at one of the blank lines). And finally, hover your cursor over the image you want to insert, then click on the "Insert" button that appears.
 
That action inserts the image into the post. The default alignment is left-aligned. You can center the image by ensuring your cursor is adjacent to the image and then left-clicking the center alignment icon in the formatting row at the top of the post.
 
You can also resize the image after it is inserted by double-clicking it. You can only make it smaller than its original size. And make sure the "Keep original aspect ratio" checkbox is checked, otherwise your image will be distorted if you change the width.
 
Terry

Micha, et all:
 
Some thoughts from a modeler who doesn’t use CAD.  CAD is not necessary for building ship models.  There are 1000’s of lovely accurate ship models built before CAD.  
 
The basic scratch ship modeling drafting task is to convert archival information into patterns that define the shape of the hull.  This information comes from a drawing, a half model, or a table of offsets.  For Nineteenth Century vessels and ships built to about 1970 hulls were not designed using simple geometric shapes.  Curves are the result of two different drafting techniques; ships curves, and splines.  Splines work by the rules for deflection of beams; a cubic equation.  Ships curves are standardized drafting tools created using different mathematical functions.  How well a particular CAD program mimics these manual drafting tools well determine the accuracy of the model.  As a Naval Architecture student a long time ago, I watched a visiting Professor from a Major Japanese university test several hull forms modeled from simple trigonometric shapes, sines, cosines, parabolas, etc. in our large towing tank.  They looked nothing like real ships.
 
All ship hull lines drawings are “faired” at one time or another.  In other words, plotted points often do not line up to allow a fair curve to be passed through.  Manual drafting requires the draftsman to use his judgement to correct this.  CAD requires either manual intervention or a mathematical algorithm.  There is therefore, no definitive example of an old ship’s hull, only different interpretations.
 
To me CAD is just another ship modeling tool.  If you enjoy working with computers and are willing to spend the $$$ and especially time to learn the program that’s fine.  On the other hand, beautiful models can be built using manual drafting techniques, or purchased plans.
 
Roger

Hello Frank.
 
After working with various 3D CAD programs for nearly two decades, I think that you should first decide what the ultimate purpose and scope of using this approach will be for your projects.
 
Are you primarily intending to reconstruct and fair existing plans?
 
Is your intent to 3D print the entire hull structure and superstructure?
 
Or are you mainly interested in printing the smaller parts and otherwise creating the ship's structure out of conventional materials?
 
For validating and fairing existing ship's plans, especially those from the 19th century and earlier, I recommend the DELFTship Free software. It is a for-the-purpose naval architectural program that defaults to three standard views, provides infinitely customizable stations, waterlines, buttocks, and diagonals, and has reasonably easy-to-use modeling tools such as Gaussian and developable visualization of hull surfaces. All these features are built-in and appropriate for ship design and modeling. This is the go-to program for developing smooth, fair hull surfaces. The poor documentation for the hobbyist and nautical research modeler is its main drawback, in my opinion. Search this forum using the term "DELFTship" to take a look at some of the results by several modelers/researchers (myself included) using this program. 
 
For 3D printing large components such as the hull, deck cabins, boats, etc., you may want to check out some of the software mentioned above. I have no experience with that application.
 
For small details and relative ease of modeling, I would go with the free, open-source, full-feature Blender program. However this program has a notoriously steep learning curve. Take a look at the Blender tutorial series by BornCG on YouTube if you want to consider this route. The instructor is an excellent teacher who doesn't assume you know what the buttons do and how the multitude of program features work.
 
Sadly, most of the competent 3D programs do have that steep learning curve, so plan on spending some time figuring out ship design within the program you choose. Some of the standard 3D CAD programs are pretty clunky when attempting to create a continuously varying surface in 3-space that must conform to an existing set of plans. I can assist with DELFTship. @3DShipWright and @Martes may provide assistance with Blender. Take a look at their models, which are both accurate and very aesthetic. They are going more for illustrative results than 3D printing.
 
Terry

I've used TinkerCAD for simple projects - I started with firefighting lockers, then deck landing lights, flight deck tractors, then a crane truck.

When I wanted to move up to designing a new island for the Bonnie, I moved to a program called Design Spark Mechanical (DSM) which has a free version as well.  
 
I've had some success with it, and for 'straight line' items like a hangar deck, a radar mast, that kind of thing, it seems to work well. 

Trying to loft a ships hull in it has been challenging, and not very successful for me (so far.)  

I'm interested in the DELFT Ship Free program, and will look into that.
 
I'll note, all the aircraft are downloaded files, everything else here (hull and deck excluded) are my own designs in TinkerCAD and DSM.
 
If you're just starting out, I'll suggest going with something simply like TinkerCAD, and start with a simple project like making bollards or lockers.  
 
Once you get the basics of the design, you have to consider how it will be printed.  Understanding printing mechanics (how many wall layers will there be, is a single 0.4mm line better than a pair of 0.2mm lines...etc) and how you slice and support things is important as well. 
 
I am 6 years deep into 3D printing, and it's fun, and challenging.  
 
Getting good quality results off your printer requires a good design, a good model that's designed to be printed, a good printer, and good post-printing finishing. 

Hello Frank.
 
After working with various 3D CAD programs for nearly two decades, I think that you should first decide what the ultimate purpose and scope of using this approach will be for your projects.
 
Are you primarily intending to reconstruct and fair existing plans?
 
Is your intent to 3D print the entire hull structure and superstructure?
 
Or are you mainly interested in printing the smaller parts and otherwise creating the ship's structure out of conventional materials?
 
For validating and fairing existing ship's plans, especially those from the 19th century and earlier, I recommend the DELFTship Free software. It is a for-the-purpose naval architectural program that defaults to three standard views, provides infinitely customizable stations, waterlines, buttocks, and diagonals, and has reasonably easy-to-use modeling tools such as Gaussian and developable visualization of hull surfaces. All these features are built-in and appropriate for ship design and modeling. This is the go-to program for developing smooth, fair hull surfaces. The poor documentation for the hobbyist and nautical research modeler is its main drawback, in my opinion. Search this forum using the term "DELFTship" to take a look at some of the results by several modelers/researchers (myself included) using this program. 
 
For 3D printing large components such as the hull, deck cabins, boats, etc., you may want to check out some of the software mentioned above. I have no experience with that application.
 
For small details and relative ease of modeling, I would go with the free, open-source, full-feature Blender program. However this program has a notoriously steep learning curve. Take a look at the Blender tutorial series by BornCG on YouTube if you want to consider this route. The instructor is an excellent teacher who doesn't assume you know what the buttons do and how the multitude of program features work.
 
Sadly, most of the competent 3D programs do have that steep learning curve, so plan on spending some time figuring out ship design within the program you choose. Some of the standard 3D CAD programs are pretty clunky when attempting to create a continuously varying surface in 3-space that must conform to an existing set of plans. I can assist with DELFTship. @3DShipWright and @Martes may provide assistance with Blender. Take a look at their models, which are both accurate and very aesthetic. They are going more for illustrative results than 3D printing.
 
Terry

Hello Frank.
 
After working with various 3D CAD programs for nearly two decades, I think that you should first decide what the ultimate purpose and scope of using this approach will be for your projects.
 
Are you primarily intending to reconstruct and fair existing plans?
 
Is your intent to 3D print the entire hull structure and superstructure?
 
Or are you mainly interested in printing the smaller parts and otherwise creating the ship's structure out of conventional materials?
 
For validating and fairing existing ship's plans, especially those from the 19th century and earlier, I recommend the DELFTship Free software. It is a for-the-purpose naval architectural program that defaults to three standard views, provides infinitely customizable stations, waterlines, buttocks, and diagonals, and has reasonably easy-to-use modeling tools such as Gaussian and developable visualization of hull surfaces. All these features are built-in and appropriate for ship design and modeling. This is the go-to program for developing smooth, fair hull surfaces. The poor documentation for the hobbyist and nautical research modeler is its main drawback, in my opinion. Search this forum using the term "DELFTship" to take a look at some of the results by several modelers/researchers (myself included) using this program. 
 
For 3D printing large components such as the hull, deck cabins, boats, etc., you may want to check out some of the software mentioned above. I have no experience with that application.
 
For small details and relative ease of modeling, I would go with the free, open-source, full-feature Blender program. However this program has a notoriously steep learning curve. Take a look at the Blender tutorial series by BornCG on YouTube if you want to consider this route. The instructor is an excellent teacher who doesn't assume you know what the buttons do and how the multitude of program features work.
 
Sadly, most of the competent 3D programs do have that steep learning curve, so plan on spending some time figuring out ship design within the program you choose. Some of the standard 3D CAD programs are pretty clunky when attempting to create a continuously varying surface in 3-space that must conform to an existing set of plans. I can assist with DELFTship. @3DShipWright and @Martes may provide assistance with Blender. Take a look at their models, which are both accurate and very aesthetic. They are going more for illustrative results than 3D printing.
 
Terry

Hello Frank.
 
After working with various 3D CAD programs for nearly two decades, I think that you should first decide what the ultimate purpose and scope of using this approach will be for your projects.
 
Are you primarily intending to reconstruct and fair existing plans?
 
Is your intent to 3D print the entire hull structure and superstructure?
 
Or are you mainly interested in printing the smaller parts and otherwise creating the ship's structure out of conventional materials?
 
For validating and fairing existing ship's plans, especially those from the 19th century and earlier, I recommend the DELFTship Free software. It is a for-the-purpose naval architectural program that defaults to three standard views, provides infinitely customizable stations, waterlines, buttocks, and diagonals, and has reasonably easy-to-use modeling tools such as Gaussian and developable visualization of hull surfaces. All these features are built-in and appropriate for ship design and modeling. This is the go-to program for developing smooth, fair hull surfaces. The poor documentation for the hobbyist and nautical research modeler is its main drawback, in my opinion. Search this forum using the term "DELFTship" to take a look at some of the results by several modelers/researchers (myself included) using this program. 
 
For 3D printing large components such as the hull, deck cabins, boats, etc., you may want to check out some of the software mentioned above. I have no experience with that application.
 
For small details and relative ease of modeling, I would go with the free, open-source, full-feature Blender program. However this program has a notoriously steep learning curve. Take a look at the Blender tutorial series by BornCG on YouTube if you want to consider this route. The instructor is an excellent teacher who doesn't assume you know what the buttons do and how the multitude of program features work.
 
Sadly, most of the competent 3D programs do have that steep learning curve, so plan on spending some time figuring out ship design within the program you choose. Some of the standard 3D CAD programs are pretty clunky when attempting to create a continuously varying surface in 3-space that must conform to an existing set of plans. I can assist with DELFTship. @3DShipWright and @Martes may provide assistance with Blender. Take a look at their models, which are both accurate and very aesthetic. They are going more for illustrative results than 3D printing.
 
Terry

Okay, with the Hurricane now occupying a space of honor on the shelf, it's back to Phoenix! Following the instructions, we next darken the openings for the gratings. Exciting stuff, right?
 

 
Then it's time to start applying finish planking. Yay! The process starts at the stern. Before I started gluing anything, I cut out the relevant parts and did some dry fitting. That's when I noticed that the sternpost fascia pieces are not wide enough to cover the width of the post.
 

 
I went back and read through the instructions again. Sure enough, it looks like I overlooked some tapering that needs to be done. I will check some build logs to confirm this, but I'm pretty sure I have some more chisel & sandpaper work in my immediate future.
 
Cheers!

Hello all!
new to the forum! Never built a ship; but will start a new build soon! I’m mostly an aircraft guy- here’s a 1/35 HH-60G I finished a year ago-



 
looking forward to advice and insights..plus a lot of inspiration!!
 
cheers
Pete

Hello Doug from Colorado Springs!
 
Welcome aboard.
 
Terry

Hello Doug from Colorado Springs!
 
Welcome aboard.
 
Terry

Hello Doug from Colorado Springs!
 
Welcome aboard.
 
Terry

Welcome from another Colorado resident!! I look forward to seeing your model and the progress you are making. Wishing you success in your model building.

Hello all, 
I just discovered this site from a newsletter put out by Rocky Mountain Shipwrights in Colorado.  I recently joined this group and many members have recommended this site. I am a first-time ship model builder, but have been building models of various types for most of my life. I chose the US Brig Syren as my first build, from Model Shipways. I looked at the description and the instruction info on the website and felt it was something I could do.  I am also a amateur woodworker, so that has helped a lot with the build. While many of the skills are new to me, I have a basic understanding of how to build things. I have actually built a small wooden rowboat in my shop.  Started this project about 2.5 years ago, and got a little sidetracked when I finally retired for good and started working in my shop everyday.  I have been back to building the model pretty consistently for the last 6 months.  Using only the model instruction sheets, I have gotten this far. I only recently discovered all these resources available.  I enjoy figuring things out for myself,  but really appreciate the info on sites like this. Looking forward to seeing and reading about other people's projects and solutions. 

Hi all, thanks for having me.
 
My name is Klas, I am 44 years old and live with my wife in Sweden, on the Baltic coast. I have recently taken up ship modelling and I am currently building the HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne from Vanguard Models. In the past I have done some plastic modelling and wargaming miniature painting.
 
As a profession I sit in front of a computer or in meetings all day. I am trained as a metal machine operator, turning and milling, and started work as a CNC operator. After a few years I learned 3D CAD and worked in the design department designing cutting tools, mostly drill bits. And since 15 years I work in the Supply Chain with more boring work, but getting paid a lot more. I miss some aspects of the work I have done in the past and I been wanting to take up a hobby where I can create something.
 
I am very interested in history, naval and otherwise, and I owned a sailing boat for a number of years. 
 
I have a pretty good home office where I can do most work, however I can't really have much machinery here. I don't have a workshop, but my father in law has one about 20min away, he has a lot of tools, small bandsaws, turning tools even a CNC mill.
 
I have a lot left to do in my current project, but I am also looking into the next build. Here I would like something in a bigger scale I think. The Syren Cutter Cheerful looks incredible and I will probably try and get hold of that. The Maris Stella HMS Speedy seems interesting too.
 
The most inspiring model I have seen is the Winchelsea so maybe this would be a goal to aspire to in a number of years. 
 
Klas

While I am procrastinating with the Salamandre, I did a couple of fixes for Liffey and Schpitzbergen, correcting the run of the deck aft on both, and replacing the boats with a slightly better placeholder models.
 

 

 

 

I think I have more or less settled on this color scheme for Phoenix:
 

 
While I was at the local Hobby Lobby to get some fresh CA glue, I decided to shop for paint for trim work. I wanted to go for the yellow ochre + red ochre look seen in the photo, and I think I may have lucked out. These two colors are a pretty close match to what I was looking for:
 

 
In fact, they are a better match than can be seen in the photo, because no matter how much fiddling I did with the camera settings on my phone, I couldn't get the image colors to match the real-life colors (imagine everything with a redder tone, if you can).
 
Anyways, I really must wrap up my Hurricane build and get back to this one.

Hey, I'm still here! 👀
I've made some fairly significant progress on the texturising, rigging and modelling this ship -- including setting up a figurehead which took me a long time! I'm still doing some final cleanup but I'm finally nearly ready for some renders.
 
I've started working in a job full time so I haven't had as much time as I used to, but I'm still doing bits on this every night.
 
I should be posting some more updates (comparatively) soon. Keep your eyes peeled!

Hello,
 
It’s time for some evaluation of this modified proxxon KT 70. As a test I made a setup to use the xy-table over its whole range with fixed steps in both x and y direction. In x it was 8.9 mm step and in y 3.1 mm. That way the whole range is covert with 15 steps. I use the scale ring to make the steps and note the DRO display values. Here you see the setup with a camera positioned to show the readings.
 

 
This is how the table is stepped from bottom-right to top-left.
 

 
I also did the inverse movement from top-left to bottom-right and again noted all displayed values.
When entering the values in a spreadsheet and plotting things you get the following results.
 


 
You can see that the curves are not ‘flat’ and that moving up and down follow a different path.
Not flat means that the pitch of the xy-table is slightly off its nominal 1 mm. In the x direction we have about 0.3 mm error after 120 mm and that can be explained with a pitch being 0.9975 mm.
For the y direction it is about the same result, a pitch of 0.9980.
 
The different paths are a result from backlash, that is ‘play’ between nut and screw. For both x and y it is about 0.1 mm.
 
I assume the DRO is correct and has no play. To be sure I also checked a small movement (8 mm) in the x direction somewhat in the middle of its range with a dial indicator. The result is shown next.
 

 
The dial indicator and the readout give almost identical values. Ok, then I trust the DRO from now on. It is convenient because it keeps track of the millimetres already moved and it eliminates the backlash error.
 
That is it for now, hope you liked it.
 
Best regards,
Kris