UpstateNY

The following is the actual text translation using the online OCR software I mentioned, use of Japanese character input system to make corrections, and a combination of both Google Translate and Bing Translate to find the best translation. After that, the English translation has to be interpreted to make normal, understandable sentences. It requires a lot of interpretation still.
 
The system mostly works, but it's kind of a lengthy process. Luckily, there really isn't a whole lot of text to translate, and this isn't a difficult kit.
 
Probably the most difficult task is correcting the OCR errors. 
 
Step 4  Attaching the Upper Planking
• Bevel the bow edge of the upper planks (laser cut parts 4 and 5) using the laser-etched lines as guides.
• Before gluing the upper planks in place, make sure the laser-scribed alignment marks line up with frame 4, also align the horizontal scribed lines with the top edge of the deck supports.
• The upper edge of the lower planks must be beveled so that the upper planks lie flush with the frames.
• Note that the upper and lower planks should line up at the stern.
 
 

Images posted with permission from Woody Joe.
 
The text in the bottom center images simply tells you to cut/file away the red area, which is at the upper edge of the lower plank.
 
The first trick here is that the forward ends of the planks have to seat nicely to the stem. There is no rabbet. The images show the plank to overlap the lower plank, but mine don't really overlap, rather they kind of line up with the lower plank. This may simply be an error on my part, but I had the same thing happening on my Hacchoro model.
 
Anyway, it's necessary to get everything in alignment before gluing. I used clamps and rubber bands to keep things in place first. Then, when I was happy with it, I used CA glue to lock it all into place. The most critical part is to make sure the notches at the top edge of the upper plank are lined up with each other. If these are off, then all the beams will be askew.
 

Image is from my Hacchoro build.
 

Another of my Hacchoro build showing clamps at the bow.
 
 

The Yakatabune's bow.  
This step and the previous one are probably the hardest steps in the build. Certainly that was the case for the Hacchoro kit, and probably the same here.
 
 
One thing is certain. It takes me a lot longer to write these posts than it does to complete the steps, so I better keep pushing along here. Steps 5 and 6 are very simple. Step 5 is to sand the bottom flat and Step 6 is to add a pre-made deck piece at the bow.
 
Translated text:
Step 5  Finishing the Bottom
• Use a sanding block to trim down the edges of the bottom plank
 

 
This is a very simple and straight forward step. There are a number of tabs that show through the hull bottom. But, being that the bottom is flat, they're going to be out of sight. 
 
 
Translated text:
Step 6  Installing the Forward Deck – Pt 1
• Test fit the bow deck piece, laser cut part numer 1-D. Bevel the edges where it comes in contact with the stem and hull planking.
• Note that the bow deck piece will sit about 1.5mm above the frames and deck support strips. 
 
Now, this is where I ran into an issue. Because this little deck piece is added AFTER the planking is in place, there's no guarantee that it will fit perfectly in place. Were I to do this again, I'd drop the piece into place, maybe even temporarily, to help figure out the run up the upper plank.
 

 
As it is, there was a gap along the edge of this deck piece. Now, this isn't a highly detailed model and is just designed to look nice on the shelf. So, if this happens to you, nobody but you is going to care. I had a similar issue on the Hacchoro model, but I just ended up rebuilding the deck piece, making it from the same planks as the rest of the model. Not sure why this area is different.
 
This time, I simply trimmed the forward edge back until the sides made better contact with the hull planks. Not ideal, but I was just trying to do something different than last time. As a result, I will have to compensate in the next step, to allow for the shortened bow deck piece.
 

 
This was an easy fix, and is probably about as difficult as this model gets. Up to this point, the construction of this kit is pretty much identical with the Hacchoro. Looks like the construction will start to vary with Step 7.
 
Clare

Stern counter and area behind balcony now planked in 3mm wide ebony.I have tack glued a strip of obechi in to act as a spacer for where a boxwood moulding will sit.This will be removed when I cut the windows openings out.Doing it this way made it easier to sand,not having to work around a raised moulding
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Nigel
 
Just want to get moved now,the 80 mile a day trip to work is wearing a bit thin
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Janet B                                      Hi Nigel. I like your progress you seem to have done very well, i think your deck looks really great. For myself i have made some progress i have
                                                
                                                  rigged the small boat to the deck and i am just started to rig the tiller, the canopy (for want of a better word) i have used cane, i made three formers
 
                                                  soaked the cane then bent them round the formers with elastic bands when dry they came out spot on. I hope to send some picks that is when i
 
                                                 can find my camera connection.
 
                                                             Regards Janet

nice work Nigel,
 
a fine "exotic looking"  ship model, and you`re doing an excellant Job...
 
Nils

I just discovered your log... looking very shipshape and Bristol fashion.   Back the lathe, just get some old hacksaw blades and use them on the lathe like a scraper for trim.  Put the design on the blade and cut it with a dremel. It works a treat for duplicating and won't wear out.

Hi All,
  Well, I’ve hit the 6th month mark and while I’ve not been keeping a detailed time log, I think I am at about the 250hr mark.   Work continued on the cannons to file off the casting marks using Ken's (xken) tips in his Niagara log (Thanks Ken!). I also opened up the cannon mouths...well tried at least!   Drilling out the mouths was a real challenge in terms of just holding them firmly and my Dremel drill bits, while saying were for metal, couldn't drill out the metal cleanly. After making rather a mess of the mouths, I then slowly filed out the mouths using the end of my round needle file.  I repaired the mouths as best I could using drops of CA, allowing them to harden, filing to shape and then repeating until they looked  passable before painting them.  Not yet sure I am happy enough with the cannons to keep them...back up plan is to buy some from Chuck and he also has some nice swivel guns that would be fun to add. Every cloud has a silver lining I guess  .   Capstan was assembled using the kit parts and then the brass work was blackened using Casey’s Birchwood solution. I also completed the doors, adding the hinges and door handles. Hinge bolts were made using the head from some brass planking nails. Smallest details I've ever tried to make by far!     Final item this week was I added the cannon port rings to the bulwarks. Kit only provided 4 rings for the outsides of the ports (really AL??), so now I need to figure out how to make some decent rings from some brass wire.    Images below and as always thanks for reading. Hope everyone on the States enjoyed their 4th July.   Cheers,   Nigel.                    

Hi All,
  Well, I’ve hit the 6th month mark and while I’ve not been keeping a detailed time log, I think I am at about the 250hr mark.   Work continued on the cannons to file off the casting marks using Ken's (xken) tips in his Niagara log (Thanks Ken!). I also opened up the cannon mouths...well tried at least!   Drilling out the mouths was a real challenge in terms of just holding them firmly and my Dremel drill bits, while saying were for metal, couldn't drill out the metal cleanly. After making rather a mess of the mouths, I then slowly filed out the mouths using the end of my round needle file.  I repaired the mouths as best I could using drops of CA, allowing them to harden, filing to shape and then repeating until they looked  passable before painting them.  Not yet sure I am happy enough with the cannons to keep them...back up plan is to buy some from Chuck and he also has some nice swivel guns that would be fun to add. Every cloud has a silver lining I guess  .   Capstan was assembled using the kit parts and then the brass work was blackened using Casey’s Birchwood solution. I also completed the doors, adding the hinges and door handles. Hinge bolts were made using the head from some brass planking nails. Smallest details I've ever tried to make by far!     Final item this week was I added the cannon port rings to the bulwarks. Kit only provided 4 rings for the outsides of the ports (really AL??), so now I need to figure out how to make some decent rings from some brass wire.    Images below and as always thanks for reading. Hope everyone on the States enjoyed their 4th July.   Cheers,   Nigel.                    

Thanks Augie...and yes all the work was worthwhile as I learned a lot.
 
Chuck's smallest cannons are a bit larger, but I think will still fit.  More worried about the size of the cannon's mouth as there is little room to widen the ports further really even I redid the brass port rings.   I will probably have to redo the carriages again of course.  
 
During my yard work this morning, I decided to go ahead and do it...no point in not making the Dragon as good as she possibly can be.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Hi All,
  Well, I’ve hit the 6th month mark and while I’ve not been keeping a detailed time log, I think I am at about the 250hr mark.   Work continued on the cannons to file off the casting marks using Ken's (xken) tips in his Niagara log (Thanks Ken!). I also opened up the cannon mouths...well tried at least!   Drilling out the mouths was a real challenge in terms of just holding them firmly and my Dremel drill bits, while saying were for metal, couldn't drill out the metal cleanly. After making rather a mess of the mouths, I then slowly filed out the mouths using the end of my round needle file.  I repaired the mouths as best I could using drops of CA, allowing them to harden, filing to shape and then repeating until they looked  passable before painting them.  Not yet sure I am happy enough with the cannons to keep them...back up plan is to buy some from Chuck and he also has some nice swivel guns that would be fun to add. Every cloud has a silver lining I guess  .   Capstan was assembled using the kit parts and then the brass work was blackened using Casey’s Birchwood solution. I also completed the doors, adding the hinges and door handles. Hinge bolts were made using the head from some brass planking nails. Smallest details I've ever tried to make by far!     Final item this week was I added the cannon port rings to the bulwarks. Kit only provided 4 rings for the outsides of the ports (really AL??), so now I need to figure out how to make some decent rings from some brass wire.    Images below and as always thanks for reading. Hope everyone on the States enjoyed their 4th July.   Cheers,   Nigel.                    

Hi All,
 
So, work on the Dragon has resumed after a great, but all too short, vacation with the family.
 
A few posts ago, Captain Steve wondered if there was a way to make the cannon carriages on the Dragon more authentic than those provided in the kit.  I decided to try and scratch out the carriages using a picture I found on the web as a reference. I also wanted to lower the height of the cannons to better center the cannons in the ports. 
 
Carriages were made by gluing eight 5mm walnut strips together and then slowly filing out the carriage shape using my needle files. After cutting the excess wood away, the glue was then loosened by soaking in water overnight to separate the pieces. The carriages were then assembled using another piece of 5mm walnut as the base and 1mm wide walnut strips to form the feet. I hope the finished prototype looks OK and certainly a little different from the kit carriages.
 
In other news, the Admiral and Captain looked after me this Father's Day and the Lady Confederacy has now docked in Saratoga Springs!  . Be a while before I start her as I must finish my Dragon first!
 
Thumbnails below and thanks for reading.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 
 

 

 

 

HI All,
  Been making some progress on turning railings as I realized for the poop deck railings, I didn’t need as much height as for the entrance railings. This allowed me to cut off some of the bases so I could repurpose some of my earlier attempts. I then just cherry picked those pieces that matched reasonably well for height and shape. Railing was as usual slightly edge bent using heat to follow the poop bulwark’s curve. After gluing up, using the end of my ruler as a square to keep things as vertical as possible, I then finished the rails with a couple of coats of WOP.  Hopefully my test fit shows the completed railings pass at least the famous “looks OK from a galloping horse" test! Macro shot shows I need to even up a base or two.  Macro images are just plain tough...show up everything! Oh well...if at first you don't succeed...!    Final shot shows my new ‘rigging table”…which is my captain’s old play table which she has now completely outgrown. Height is about 20 in and is ~50in long by 33in wide so my little Dragon looks rather lost on it!     It also works great as a plan table.    The black chair is my old astronomy observing chair and is infinitely adjustable for height as the seat grips the back rails using a plastic friction bar. Needs a foot rest at the highest settings  (~36in so at least I do!) but again will work well for rigging w/o bending over or standing up for ever. I’ve not seen anyone mention these chairs before so figured I’d post in case it interests someone. They aren’t cheap, but I find mine sturdy and comfortable. Link below for those not into astronomy. Not done any checks for price so look around before you take the plunge if you like it.   https://www.astronomics.com/astronomy-viewing-chairs_c457.aspx   Thanks for reading and of course to those that hit the like button and made the kind comments. Support here on MSW is just great for us newbies!      Cheers,   Nigel.                    

Thanks Augie...and yes all the work was worthwhile as I learned a lot.
 
Chuck's smallest cannons are a bit larger, but I think will still fit.  More worried about the size of the cannon's mouth as there is little room to widen the ports further really even I redid the brass port rings.   I will probably have to redo the carriages again of course.  
 
During my yard work this morning, I decided to go ahead and do it...no point in not making the Dragon as good as she possibly can be.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Details are looking good.  Your work on the cannons will pay off....one way or another.  Chuck's cannons are superb if you go that way.  Hopefully you can get a very close match regarding the size.  

the place is hopping here........although I'm not spending it where I would like to.   compound that with a dog that is deathly afraid of loud booms,  and you get a very short attention span.   I've kept him close these last couple of days.....last night I was up well after 2 AM.   anyway.......to recap what I've been up to 
 
I put a few lights in the hull to see how it would look.   too bad it was daytime......it might have looked better.
 

 
I only have two lights in the hull..........as many as five may be needed.  touch ups were done to the mid ship section.
 

 
the fore stays and the three main back stays will be the larger size thread.   I opted to use the kit supplied ratlines.  they cleaned up well and I refined the contours,  getting rid of any mold marks that might be on them.
 

 
this part is the front fascia for the bridge deck.......it is sooooooo incorrect.   the slant of the outer edges are wrong,  it appears to be too tall,  and there is no slot cut out for the stairs.   I may have to cement the bow section to the mid section,  in order to straighten it out.
 

 
more stays were added to the bow section......all the lower ones will be the smaller thread.   there are quite a few of these lines,  but it will need them all for support,  when the communication lines are installed.  they will span from the fore mast,  all the way back to the mizzen mast.
 

 
using clothes pins for weights,  they will be hung off the sides and cemented on the underside of the deck.
 

 
almost all of the lines are done on the bow section..........one more pair and the back stay terminating on the boat deck, from the forward structure roof,  are all that's left to do.   there are still a few more parts that need to be added to the bow section.   more to come.......
 
 

Thank you very much indeed Nigel,Bob,Peter and Michael
 
I have never really lost my workshop Nigel,I have just brought some items back out of storage.After two house sales have fallen through,it is now going to auction at the end of September.This hopefully means we can finally get relocated.My only stipulation as to where we rent is that there is a garage It means I will loose workbench space,but that will just teach me to work tidier 
 
Kind Regards
 
NIgel

Hi All,
  Well, I’ve hit the 6th month mark and while I’ve not been keeping a detailed time log, I think I am at about the 250hr mark.   Work continued on the cannons to file off the casting marks using Ken's (xken) tips in his Niagara log (Thanks Ken!). I also opened up the cannon mouths...well tried at least!   Drilling out the mouths was a real challenge in terms of just holding them firmly and my Dremel drill bits, while saying were for metal, couldn't drill out the metal cleanly. After making rather a mess of the mouths, I then slowly filed out the mouths using the end of my round needle file.  I repaired the mouths as best I could using drops of CA, allowing them to harden, filing to shape and then repeating until they looked  passable before painting them.  Not yet sure I am happy enough with the cannons to keep them...back up plan is to buy some from Chuck and he also has some nice swivel guns that would be fun to add. Every cloud has a silver lining I guess  .   Capstan was assembled using the kit parts and then the brass work was blackened using Casey’s Birchwood solution. I also completed the doors, adding the hinges and door handles. Hinge bolts were made using the head from some brass planking nails. Smallest details I've ever tried to make by far!     Final item this week was I added the cannon port rings to the bulwarks. Kit only provided 4 rings for the outsides of the ports (really AL??), so now I need to figure out how to make some decent rings from some brass wire.    Images below and as always thanks for reading. Hope everyone on the States enjoyed their 4th July.   Cheers,   Nigel.                    

Hi All,
  Well, I’ve hit the 6th month mark and while I’ve not been keeping a detailed time log, I think I am at about the 250hr mark.   Work continued on the cannons to file off the casting marks using Ken's (xken) tips in his Niagara log (Thanks Ken!). I also opened up the cannon mouths...well tried at least!   Drilling out the mouths was a real challenge in terms of just holding them firmly and my Dremel drill bits, while saying were for metal, couldn't drill out the metal cleanly. After making rather a mess of the mouths, I then slowly filed out the mouths using the end of my round needle file.  I repaired the mouths as best I could using drops of CA, allowing them to harden, filing to shape and then repeating until they looked  passable before painting them.  Not yet sure I am happy enough with the cannons to keep them...back up plan is to buy some from Chuck and he also has some nice swivel guns that would be fun to add. Every cloud has a silver lining I guess  .   Capstan was assembled using the kit parts and then the brass work was blackened using Casey’s Birchwood solution. I also completed the doors, adding the hinges and door handles. Hinge bolts were made using the head from some brass planking nails. Smallest details I've ever tried to make by far!     Final item this week was I added the cannon port rings to the bulwarks. Kit only provided 4 rings for the outsides of the ports (really AL??), so now I need to figure out how to make some decent rings from some brass wire.    Images below and as always thanks for reading. Hope everyone on the States enjoyed their 4th July.   Cheers,   Nigel.                    

Hi All,
 
So, work on the Dragon has resumed after a great, but all too short, vacation with the family.
 
A few posts ago, Captain Steve wondered if there was a way to make the cannon carriages on the Dragon more authentic than those provided in the kit.  I decided to try and scratch out the carriages using a picture I found on the web as a reference. I also wanted to lower the height of the cannons to better center the cannons in the ports. 
 
Carriages were made by gluing eight 5mm walnut strips together and then slowly filing out the carriage shape using my needle files. After cutting the excess wood away, the glue was then loosened by soaking in water overnight to separate the pieces. The carriages were then assembled using another piece of 5mm walnut as the base and 1mm wide walnut strips to form the feet. I hope the finished prototype looks OK and certainly a little different from the kit carriages.
 
In other news, the Admiral and Captain looked after me this Father's Day and the Lady Confederacy has now docked in Saratoga Springs!  . Be a while before I start her as I must finish my Dragon first!
 
Thumbnails below and thanks for reading.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 
 

 

 

 

Thanks to everyone for the likes and kind words of support.
 
Since the elm tree pump, Harry has been hard pressed to design the deck fittings. Red and Woodie have had the crew running hard, too much down time and tensions grow between the Clans.
 
So I've been mentoring Tiny as he helped me do some work on the windlass. At first we were going to make it mostly out of brass, but ended up with a multitude of different items. Walnut was chosen and the turning began. The small brass gears were obtained from some watch parts. The gear itself was actually used to cut the groove, and once the spokes were removed, the gears were cut and wrapped into the groove.

After this, whelps were cut and glued into place. While Tiny trimmed the whelps flush, I soldered two flat pieces of metal to the ratchet gear and filed them down to just above flush.

The end spools were turned and fitted with brass nails. The main cylinder was cut in half and joined back together with the ratchet gear in the middle. The bits were then made and holes were drilled through the deck for fastening.

The brass rod was cut to length and the nail were pressed into the tube, affixing it to the bits.
 

Previous to this, the main section of the bowsprit was made from walnut and fitted with bits that were fastened to the deck.
 

The pawl assembly along with the hand pumps are still in the making. So for now this is how the Nutz ship is sitting. The crew has been set loose on the town to enjoy this sunny 4th of July, while me and Tiny head out to test fire some cannons.
 

To everyone: enjoy your 4th of July and stay safe.

....... continued
 
The completed anchors. The straps are dyed card. I stained the Castello with Oak stain to give them a more weathered look :
 

 
The Ring is Puddened :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 Danny

And thanks again Greg, Christian, Mark, wyzwyk and mhegazi .
 
Anchors
 
Work begins on the Anchors by filing the bevels into a piece of tapered brass stock for the Shank :
 

 

 
The Shanks and Arms after milling and filing to shape :
 

 
The arms are silver soldered to the shank :
 

 
Then the Palms (or Flukes) are cut from flat brass stock and soldered to the arms. The assemblies were then blackened using Jax Black - I'd run out of Birchwood Casey Brass Black and was having difficulties importing some more, so Grant Dale very kindly sent me some of this. Thanks again Grant,  it seems to work quite well .
 
The Stocks are made from Castello in two pieces per anchor. This will allow for a small air gap between them to prevent rot. They were tapered on the disc sander and finished with a fine sanding stick. I spot glued the two halves together before sanding them to shape to ensure they were pefectly similar. The holes for the bolts and treenails were also drilled before assembly to the stocks, and then the pieces were dropped into a jar of Isopropyl to separate them :
 

 

 

 
Continued next post .......

Hi everyone!
Many thanks for all your Likes!
Here are next updates.

Hi Ken,
 
Please do! It is a short build and it won't take long to see it to the end here.
 
Woody Joe gave me the okay to use images from the instructions in my build log, so we're all on the up-and-up!
 
 
As you can see, there's a lot of imagery will little text. What text you see is telling you things that are really pretty obvious if it wasn't there.
 

 
Step 3  Attaching the Lower Planking
• When fitting the planks, make sure the laser-etched alignment marks line up with frames before gluing the planks into place (The text in red)
• Bevel the bow edge of the lower planks (laser cut parts 2 and 3) using the laser-etched lines as guides.
• Bend planks by first soaking them in water. Bend the wet plank across a plastic bucket or similar curved surface for support.
• When mounting the lower planks, make sure the laser-scribed marks line up with frame 
 
 

 
Probably the main issue here is bending the hinoki, which bends very nicely, but only when wet! Dry hinoki is very brittle, so don't go there without wetting the planks first. Not even a little bit, because I doubt you're going to be able to get replacement parts, and you're probably going to need to fabricate your own from basswood or boxwood maybe. Hinoki is very hard to find here in the States. It's not that it's a rare wood, it's just not something that you can get here.
 
I managed to get a block of it from a Japanese tool shop in Berkeley, CA, but it's not big enough to cut any significant sized sheets from. It was just a piece of scrap they had laying around that they gave me.
 
I've heard that Port Orford Cedar is very similar, but I've never tried it. Luckily, I've never needed to go that far. If I've lost a piece or used up the strip woods in a kit, there has always been enough scraps from the laser-cut sheets to come up with anything I've needed.
 

 
The part of this build that I've been most concerned and careful about has been the position of these first hull planks. The  inside edge of the planks at the bottom should line up with the bottom of the hull. You can see this in the bottom center diagram of the instructions. 
 
The last part of this step is sanding the top edge of the plank so that that the plank is flush with the upper part of the frames. This is necessary in order for the upper planks to lay flat against the frames and the bottom planks.
 
Note the notch in the upper edge of the planks in the photo below.
 

  This notch allows the upper planks to seat nicely against the  stem. Without the notch, I'm guessing the that fitting the planks into place would be much more difficult, require more bending, etc. I don't know for sure if this is a kit simplification, but Woody Joe seems to incorporate this on all their recently engineered traditional Japanese boat kits.
 
Also, if you look at that forward frame, you'll note that there will be a gap between the frame and the lower edge of the upper plank. That appears to be how it is unless I've been doing something wrong with these builds.
 
With the completion of this step, adding the two bottom planks, one might call them the garboards, the hull planking is half done!
 
Clare
 

Lessons learned at this point on framing, fairing, and planking....
 
I guess I should say that it's not that I lacked the courage but more of the knowledge of deciphering the plans, supplementing them with the correct information and translating it all in my head to a course of action.  And then I got side-tracked...  anyway, after working through the side-track for the last 30 days, I'm re-focused and back on course.  Solution.. try not to get side-tracked by new toys... think further ahead.. instead of 10 steps or 20 steps... look 100 steps.
 
The problem stems from not fairing the aft frames as far as the Hahn frame drawing show and the lack of knowledge on my part in setting up the transom timbers.   I guess I should have done a better documented ship first....
 
Same goes for the garboard strake.. I wasn't thinking that far ahead when I did the rabbet.  I've been working through the problem and have a better result which should show when I put that strake in.  Seems I didn't get the bevel quite where it should be in the aft section.  
 
Next update will be after I get everything re-faired and sorted out and the now four strakes of wide planks replaced...  If you hear foul language from the west coast, ignore it.. it's just me sorting out things and venting to myself.    But it will be fun.