J T Lombard

Ken:
Dry in Vietnam? 
Hot and humid - about 115% humidity all over SE Asia and then there is the monsoon season.  There were times I'd have killed for a dry breeze.
Glad the model is traveling well.
Kurt

I believe that nitrocelluose is laquer resin.  It makes a good sanding sealer because it is hard.  Will check and advise if incorrect.
 
Ed

Hello All,
I add new item into my webpages-resin sailors in 1/72 scale:
http://www.dusekshipkits.com/sailors-1-72
 
Best regards
Daniel

Any chance of you getting these scaled up to 1/48
Regards Paul 

I use this Micro-Mark X-Y table that I can attach to my drill-press when I need it. Works great for small jobs.
 
https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-X-Y-Table-Attachment

Hi J,   With regards the prep for my wood, it's been a lot of trial and error but what I've settled for is first make sure that there is no glue in the grain, I make sure that I wipe away any excess when using, I give it a good sand mostly with a solid block with 120 grit attached. I then always rub in a thin penetrating wood dye mostly a light oak, this doesn't change the colour of the wood much but it makes it look richer and really brings out the grain, for contrast on rubbing strips etc. I'll use dark oak. I then always apply sanding sealer, this dries quickly and after a few minutes I give a light rub with 180 grit just held in my fingers. To finish I use a poly satin varnish. On the decks I use acrylic matt varnish, this dries quicker and is easily re touched when I end up marking the deck.
 
For paints I use Caldercraft dull acrylic for wood and Tamiya Gold gilt on the decorative castings. I only ever use brushes but good quality ones and build up the colour using thin layers.
 
I hope that this helps.
 
Ken

Anton:
I just bought an early version of Sergal's Sovereign of the Seas. I was going to use your build as A guide. I hope you are still planning to finish your build.
 
regards
 
J Lombard
 
any advise on the early version would be appreciated

Hello everyone, my name is Shawn and I live in Reno Nevada, I am totally new to building wooden ships, but I am enjoying every minute of it. I used to build plastic models and always wanted to try the wooden ships, but I now feel I am at the age where I have the patience for it. A couple of weeks ago I ordered an 18th century longboat from Model Expo,
and while I waited for it to arrive I purchased a few tools that I did not have. I have already started my longboat, and I am on the planking stage, it is kind of horrid, I wish I would have found this site earlier, after going through some of the build logs for the longboat, I see a few mistakes that I made that will effect the outcome of the planking. but I see this model as a learning experience anyways, and it sure is. anyways I am happy to be here and eager to learn lots more.

Thank you for your input Don
 
J

Thank you for your input Don
 
J

Thank you Vince.
 
J

Thank you Vince.
 
J

I have a Sherline lathe that I subsequently equipped with their DRO as an add-on.  It's a huge improvement on counting the number of times that I've cranked the handwheels. I end up with fewer parts spoiled when I lose track of the number of times I've turned the crank. 
 
With regard to portability, the wires unhook readily, so that's not a problem.

Thank you ,Ben, for your input. I plan on using the lathe for modeling only both for wood & metal.
 
regards
 
J
 

Anton:
I just bought an early version of Sergal's Sovereign of the Seas. I was going to use your build as A guide. I hope you are still planning to finish your build.
 
regards
 
J Lombard
 
any advise on the early version would be appreciated

Thank you ,Ben, for your input. I plan on using the lathe for modeling only both for wood & metal.
 
regards
 
J
 

If you have interests in machining beyond ship building there are certainly some advantages with a larger machine but if it's just for model making then it probably covers all of what you would want.  I have a small non-Sherline mill but after significant deliberation and work on a friend's machines I'm leaning towards getting a standard bench mill and lathe.
 
You might luck out and find a Sherline on Craigslist, on eBay it seems the used prices are 60%+ of the retail prices.  Tooling and accessories seem to be better deals.  A couple of months ago, I missed a craigslist sale of a retired clock maker that was selling both machines with the DRO packages for a fantastic price.  So they are out there.
 
Also, take a look at their distributors list and call around to see what price they can offer since I think most will be drop shipping your order from Sherline.

Ben:
Thank you for your input. I do not have a mill so your info on a milling column is very interesting.
 
thanks again
 
J

John:
Thank you so much for your thoughts. I was also looking at the "B"  package.
 
best regards
 
J

John:
Thank you so much for your thoughts. I was also looking at the "B"  package.
 
best regards
 
J

I see no one has responded so far. I don't have the DRO version of the lathe so I can't comment on the usefulness of DRO. I do have it on my mill and am very glad I do but there haven't been many times where I wished I had it on the lathe, although I can see how it could be useful - especially for repetitive tasks. As for accessories, I think it's a matter of what you can afford and what you want to do. I think it's cheaper to buy a package deal up front than it is to add all the same accessories individually later. I got a B package with mine and some of the things I've used and some I haven't. I didn't feel like I'd need the thread cutting attachment that comes with the C package and so far, haven't missed it. I've often thought about buying the compound slide though and likely will one of these days. I also added a 4-jaw, self centering chuck. I have not had occasion or need to use the steady rest, faceplate, or lathe dog so far and I've had my lathe for about 3 years now.
 
One other accessory you might want to consider is a quick-change tool post. I know Sherline makes one, but I think it's too expensive. You can find one for half the price at Little Machine Shop that looks good - http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4039
I bought one made by another company (A2Z) but they have since gone out of business. It would be much more tedious to use the lathe without that tool post. I often change tools frequently while working on a single part.
 
One other accessory you might consider getting is the WW collet set (1160). If you're working with small-diameter wood stock, a collet can hold it well without causing indentation marks the way a 3-jaw chuck can. The drawback to collets, though, is that the diameter of the stock must be very close to the internal diameter of the collet so their usefulness can be limited. I use my 3-jaw chuck 99% of the time. But if, for instance, you were turning a bunch of wooden belaying pins, the collet would be very nice to have. If you only turn metal or wood where the indentations won't matter, then I think the 3-jaw chuck is just fine.
 
I bought my lathe and mill from Discount Campus.
They have better pricing than Sherline Direct and they are an authorized reseller. I've bought accessories from them as well and have no complaints.
 
Hope that helps -
John
 
 

I thought of one more thing you might want to consider about the DRO option. I don't have room in my shop to leave the lathe out on a workbench all the time. I have to store it away between uses. There are a lot of wires and things associated with the DRO that would add to the difficulty of moving it around a lot. So if you're considering the DRO option, you'll likely be happier if you don't ever have to move the lathe.
 
Cheers -
John

Chuck, is there a rigging plan or diagram showing how the anchor and buoy are rigged?  I'm somewhat confused by the pictures.
                                            Walt Haynes

Bob
Is the kit complete other than the plans? If so I'll cover the shipping charges.
 
regards
 
J Lombard

Bob
Is the kit complete other than the plans? If so I'll cover the shipping charges.
 
regards
 
J Lombard