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HSM

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    http://www.historicshipmodel.com

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  1. Looks like lots of fun! I live directly in the middle of North America so not much cruise activity for me unless I first fly to a port. I am intrigued by this though, and maybe some day will try it out. If you wouldn't mind I would like to see your photos and stories...
  2. You have lots of responses, but I am wondering why stretching does not work... As suggested by xken, put it between 2 pliers, or a vice and pliers and pull on it until you feel it stretch a bit. This is called the yield-point. If you release it carefully it will be perfectly straight. I much prefer this method to any of the others, but do whatever works for you.
  3. I bought an 8050 (thanks again for the recommendation John!) and love it. I haven't used my old flex-shaft dremel in months. The battery seems to have sufficient run time, at least for me. I have never had it go flat or slow down during a job and I use it daily. The fact that it doesn't remember your last set speed is the most significant drawback to this tool. It can be quite annoying when you are doing lots of slow speed work and have to continually be pushing buttons. I put a jacobs chuck on it and it blocks the lights in such a way that there is light everywhere EXCEPT where the blade meets the work! On the possibility of the battery getting weak over time, I have had mine for 6 months and if it were to die right now I would spend the money to buy another one. I like it that much. It is not perfect, but is well worth the money for the cordless convenience. I don't think you would regret buying an 8050.
  4. The Bluenose is a perfect subject to use white decal paper on because the hull is black. I have made 2 MS Bluenoses and drew the name and scrollwork in Turbocad, with the yellow and black printed, leaving the letters white. It worked great and the decal was all but invisible.
  5. #11 Exacto blade and handle A Dremel 8050 as suggested by John Allen in a previous post A small disk/belt sander Digital caliper
  6. I made a model (Corel's Half-Moon) for a gentleman who lives in Stony Point NY. He is a HUGE model ship fan, but he doesn't currently posses the skills to make them himself, despite several attempts. Is there a club or show or anything around that area he might be able to attend to meet some other local builders? I didn't see anything near him on the NRG page. Thanks for any suggestions I can send his way!
  7. Thanks for the suggestion John! I have had 15 great years out of my corded Dremel, and wasn't even thinking of replacing it until I read your review, and then other reviews online. I have been leery of battery operated tools in the past, but for smaller jobs (probably 80% of them) this will be great! I will keep my old, powerful corded Dremel and I'm sure the two will complement each other well. Will stop at Home Depot on my way home and pick one up :-)
  8. The plates stick like white on rice, but they do adhere better to a glossy surface than they do to a flat one. They are also very thin so they don't hide imperfections in the hull surface.
  9. Military modellers have literally THOUSANDS of figures available at a scale of 1:35 and I am sure you will be able to find figures posed and dressed exactly as you like. I just ordered figure sets from HobbyInc for figures I required for a diorama to copy a famous photograph of a meeting between King Aziz of Egypt, FDR, Admiral Nimits and an interpreter that took place on the cruiser Quincy. In my case I had to find clothing and poses that matched the photograph and was able to match each figure pretty accurately. The military figure kits come with the body parts all separated so you can mix and match if you don't like the arm position of this figure you can take one from another figure.
  10. I use this Micro-Mark X-Y table that I can attach to my drill-press when I need it. Works great for small jobs. https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-X-Y-Table-Attachment
  11. I generally put the line through the pin-hole, then around and through again, then I put the pin in the hole to hold it in place. Once I have adjusted all (or most) of the rigging I glue down all of the pins and clip off the excess line. I then add rope coils of appropriate sized line that I make off of the model. You are right... If they yard is down then you would have less of a coil than you would if the yard is hoisted and there would be lots of line to coil.
  12. Seen on a camping trip through South Dakota.
  13. I am working on the Euromodel Friedrich WIlhelm zu Pferde (strange... spellchecker doesn't like that name!) and am wondering about the shroud run on the mizzen mast. The deadeyes for the fore and main mast have wood spacers (channels) that hold them away from the hull and there is room for the rigged shrouds to clear the bulwarks. The deadeyes on the mizzen mast are attached without the spacer to hold them away from the hull, and there appears to be no way to get the shrouds to clear the bulwarks. The shrouds are forced to bend around the hull and I am certain that would never happen in real life. The shrouds would chafe badly and the railing on the poopdeck would be excessively stressed. My model will be built admiralty style without masts or rigging so I will likely install the deadeyes as shown on the plans, but what am I missing here? Attached are some photos that show the area:
  14. I think all belaying pins are removable. If the lines need to be freed quickly a sailor can just pull the pin out and let out the line. If it were me I would end up with a tangled mess and swinging from my ankle from the yardarm but I'm sure a sailor would be able to keep it under control quite well.
  15. Someone mentioned moving the lift blocks from the main mast to the topmast so they are more forward. I have done similar even if the plans show the blocks on the aft section of the masthead. Plans are a good starting point, but if there is a more practical and functional way to do it I'm sure the sailors of the day would have made a similar modification in real-life.

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