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kostas_gr

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About kostas_gr

  • Birthday 01/06/1971

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Athens, Greece
  • Interests
    Outdoor sports
    Shotokan Karate
    SUP

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  1. I’ve been considering whether to add treenails to the main deck or not. The reason I’m hesitant is that I’m not satisfied with how they usually turn out. Even when I drill the holes to the correct size, inserting the wooden treenails often makes the holes expand unevenly, resulting in inconsistent sizes and an out-of-scale appearance. Perhaps there’s an issue with my technique, but I’ve decided to try something different instead. My plan is to drill small holes and fill them with a thick paste made from white glue mixed with black acrylic paint. Using acrylic is crucial since white glue is water-based, and this approach will make it easier to clean up any excess paste with a damp paper towel, avoiding black stains on the deck fisrts holes are ready, drilled, filled up, cleaned. The rest of treenail are almost ready, in this picture you can see how the holes are looking before cleaning up the excess paste This is the final outcome, and I’m quite pleased with the result. I’m considering keeping this pattern as it is and not adding any additional treenails
  2. The main deck will be planked following the "rule of 4" using 10 cm planks. I encountered a staining issue caused by a blue acrylic paint spot that I hadn't fully removed by sanding. When I oiled the deck surface, the blue paint somehow seeped into the planks. I believe this wouldn't have happened if the paint had been enamel. As a result, I had to remove and redo 4-5 rows of planks.
  3. After completing the first layer (base color), I noticed a few small gaps that needed to be filled before moving forward I chose to fill the gaps with superglue, not just because it was faster, but primarily because I needed a strong material that could hold securely. The next step is to carefully sand the filled areas to avoid creating noticeable "steps" between the sanded sections and the painted surface
  4. Ready to begin painting! I'll start with a light grey enamel paint to prime the hull. The neutral grey tone ensures it won't interfere with the subsequent colors (yellow and blue). Additionally, grey is ideal for spotting minor imperfections I’ll be using an airbrush to apply color in thin, precise layers as needed. This is my very first airbrush, over 30 years old! I got it back when I first started building plastic aircraft models painting hull 1.mp4
  5. According to the instructions, the upper deck gunholes are installed at a later stage. However, after some consideration, I have decided to attach all the wooden parts to the hull now, completing as many steps as possible at this point
  6. left side completed right side completed There are a few small gaps that have been filled with putty. If I were keeping the natural wood color, I would have replaced one or two planks. However, since it will be painted, I believe it should be fine The next task is painting. I'll start by priming the hull with a light gray smalt color
  7. It's been a while since my last post. Right now, I'm planking the hull, though progress has been slow. I’m focusing on fitting the planks as tightly as possible because I want a smooth finish. This precision is essential for the next step, which is painting, as I’d like to minimize the need for putty
  8. According to Artesania's instructions, I was supposed to trim three stern planks. However, I decided to attempt bending those planks instead Since this part of the stern will be painted, small gaps won't be an issue for me. My main objective is to ensure the Hull planking is as firm as possible I had to fill some parts of the stern with additional balsa wood to create a sturdy base for the bent planks I had to fill with balsa wood
  9. the inside of the gunports is painted black. 30% (more or less) of hull planking is done The next step will be challenging, bending the planks for the stern will be a hard task
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