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Everything posted by jbshan
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Whining is OK, but no whinging, please. One trick this time of year is to find a way to work where you can also watch football (the kind with helmets and pads, for all you disadvantaged, although Aussie rules might be interesting) or golf later in the year and next winter. The Lions are playing Thursday, I understand. Back to plank notching now.
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Oh, I dunno, that's a lot of responsibility to put on me. What if I screw up sometime and lead you guys down a twisty trail to the dark side? The one I'm working on now I will, I will, do the masts and rigging. (Philadelphia, of 1776. Only one mast, not much rigging.) The mast is done in a novel fashion, with quarters cut to shape and glued up, not a dowel in sight. That should be fun.
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Well, those are 32 pdrs., the same size ball as on Victory's lower deck guns. Guess not even the strip planking and epoxy stood up well to the proof test on the guns.
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Careful, Mike. I have several in an 'admiralty model' state. It might become a habit. Any case you use can be a lot shorter, of course.
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Microwaving the wood?
jbshan replied to a topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Wrap it in a wet paper towel and nuke for 30 seconds if your nuker is fairly good. More if it's an old low power one like mine. Test for timing and if needed refresh the water on the towel if it dries out. -
Introduction of royal yards to the Royal Navy
jbshan replied to Mark P's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Boudroit: 74 Gun Ship covers one ship which he put together from a multitude of sources. It is a generic ship design. The full work is, as stated, in four volumes, weighing about 25 pounds, and the last time I looked, the set cost, used, from $563 to $1473. It is certainly worth looking at, if nothing else to see the work of a master. To prove you've read them, you have to report back on what the ship's boy is doing outboard of the catheads in I believe it is the third volume. Royals: Early royals were indeed set on a long pole head t'gallant mast and properly called t'gallant royals. They were set flying, no lifts or braces and sheeted to the t'gallant yard. They were stowed along the shrouds, with the butt on the lower mast top. Large and later ships set them from a fidded royal mast and they were called royals. Certainly fair weather sails, they had no reefing mechanism and could only be brought in and struck. If you see a painting showing long pole heads to the t'gallants on a ship, she COULD have carried them, though it is not proof. Once royals became common, skysails began to be carried by some extremely tall ships, in the same manner. Fair American model: The rigging on this model was done in the 1920s shortly after the model was acquired by Mr. Rogers. There is written documentation stating that this was the case, by the man who did the work. -
I used to do RR models that way, the diecast type came out with a really nice finish. The hardest thing was to know when to stop before the runs began. The first couple of finish color coats you can leave a bit spotty, it'll all come out in the wash.
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I was taught to stay back from the work piece so that the paint was just shy of dry when it hit the piece and do a few light coats. Being that your funnel is all metal, you can bake the paint on in the oven. Set the temp to just barely on, 200 degs or so so the paint smell goes away. Maybe 10 or 15 minutes. Make yourself a stand to hold the piece while you paint as well. In your case maybe a tapered vertical post to jam into the funnel tube. Paint a little, rotate, paint, rotate and so on. If the base is big enough you could pick it up (gloves helpful) and do the inside. Just some thoughts, Sir.
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Bevel 2nd planking
jbshan replied to Tompslattery's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
My latest boat I used very thin stock for the planking. I did the shaping with sandpaper, so as I put the (roughly figured) spiled shape on the plank, I would add a tiny bit of bevel at the same time. -
Sooo.... Mask oversize, cut mask to shape, paint, remove mask, leaves nicely shiny brass stripe with paint on body of funnel. I could show you how to scatter a little salt on your watercolour painting, or use clean water on dry paper to limit a wash, but this masking thing is new. Intrigued to see how it comes out.
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It might come off cleaner if you run a blade along the edge first, in the joint between funnel tube and banding strip. Further testing will reveal proper technique, no doubt.
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That sounds OK, Mike. I was thinking there was nothing holding the eye except the glue and that didn't seem quite secure enough if the glue should let go. What you describe sounds similar to my technique which I learned fro a dedicated rigger. I make the eye, put a small clamp on it, then secure with smaller line in a series of half-hitches, then a bit of glue just to hold the loose ends down.
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Stripped the old paint off nicely, you said? It freak-n GLEAMS. Well done.
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I just edited, that should read 'WD40'. I slipped short lengths of the tubing over the bottom of some shrouds and colored them black.
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One good thing, Darrell and Mike, is that the main and fore are done basically the same, so practice on one immediately pays off when you come to do the other. Youse guys' speed amazes me, along with attention to accuracy. I do hope the unknotted 'seizing' doesn't come back to haunt you later on.
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I have pieces of WD40 spray tube masquerading as turnbuckles. Whatever makes it float, eh?
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Michael, suggest you label each trial cable so you can duplicate it later on. I've got several small coils of rigging line labeled for number of strands of what initial size, just in case. 3 X 4 of .008 or # 5 linen, or whatever.
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The hammock rails were there precisely to get all shot up. They provided a relatively impermeable screen against small arms fire for the crew on deck, although in this case the crew probably slept either on pallets on deck, or perhaps just wrapped up in blankets, or below, in the hold on whatever they could find. While there was a 'saloon', it probably didn't extend the full length to provide a sleeping compartment for the crew.
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Obviously the Arabian stock had not yet been introduced. Medieval horse stocks had heavier, stocky bodies.
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