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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    Red, white, blue and common pennant (RN) are all commission pennants and one is flown at the main mast truck 24-7 from commissioning ceremony until the ship is decommissioned, unless an admiral's or other rank flag needs to be flown. If under the command of an admiral, the color would match his squadronal color. If under Admiralty orders, as was Endeavour, the striped, private ship or common pennant was flown.
  2. jbshan
    Try this: http://www.crwflags.com/fotw/flags/vxt-dvm1.html#mastheadpennant
  3. jbshan
    They are however, very small compared to past times, except for the paying off or homeward bound pennant (RN and USN, respectively).
  4. jbshan
    The commissioning pennant was always at the mainmast truck, unless superseded by a rank flag. In this time frame they came in red, white and blue, depending on the squadron of the Admiral under whom the ship is serving. There was a red, white and blue commissioning pennant in stripes for a 'private ship', that was not serving under the squadron system; Endeavour would have probably used this one. At sea? The 'private ship' commissioning pennant at the main mast truck and the red ensign at the gaff or ensign staff. Try this link. More than you probably wanted to know. http://www.crwflags.com/fotw/flags
  5. jbshan
    I'm thinking Darrell must be a surgeon, he's so fast tying knots.
  6. jbshan
    Topsail and topgallant can come down to their respective caps, to'gallant royal I suppose could come down near and be secured to the t'gallant, for display purposes. Harland, 'Seamanship...' has a lot, if you have that. Lees, 'Masting and Rigging...' should have some also, though I haven't looked there myself, and don't forget Lever.
  7. jbshan
    I read somewhere that these were fine and dandy (and stylish) for harbor duty, but something simpler might have been used if repair was needed at sea. Conversely, that the rigging line was deemed unreliable and the multiple tackles were used to spread the load along the stay or shroud.
  8. jbshan
    Very kewl little boats. Cabin, canopy, gasoline, steam? Tea service or wet bar? All of the above?
  9. jbshan
    I looked through some material this morning and didn't find any reference to an un-sailed topgallant royal yard being left on the mast. When they took the sail in, they bundled sail and yard together and lashed it to the shrouds in the top. The sail was bent to the yard on deck before it was hoisted. There were no lifts or braces to hold it aligned with the other yards, only the sheets from the lower corners of the sail that went to the topgallant yard, and no reef points or other furling mechanism. If you take the sail off, there are no longer any sheets, just the halliard or tye. All that being said, there is nothing to prevent you displaying it raised, you just have to come up with a way to hold it in place, a pin into the mast perhaps, which is not a bad idea for all the yards.
  10. jbshan
    Is there a full moon? Is that model enscorcelled? Just asking.
  11. jbshan
    No sails, they should be lowered, yes. The topgallant would come down to near the topmast cap. The topgallant royal MIGHT be carried housed, tilted up and lashed parallel to the topgallant mast, out of the way of the topgallant yard, but I defer to other opinion on that one. It wouldn't be as aesthetically pleasing, of course as if it was left crossed a bit above the topgallant yard. Darcy Lever should show how the yard was housed.
  12. jbshan
    Don't hit me with that big stick. Mizzen topmast stay. They only lasted a short while either side of 1650. Perhaps the idea was to keep the center clear for the mizzen lateen yard. The fan of the lines would have spread the load over more of the after main shroud to which they belay. They were found on both English and European ships.
  13. jbshan
    Try 'futtock shrouds'. Or not. That might be in Anderson. I'll give it a look. From mizzen forward, correct?
  14. jbshan
    Beginning to look like the pictures in the books, isn't it?
  15. jbshan
    Don't rush things. I gashed my shin once and had stitches. I was amazed how much tension there was on them. All I could do was sit with my feet up, crutches for moving around the house. You'll know when it's OK to sit up and work again.
  16. jbshan
    I like the recess in the table top to hold the workpiece while chiseling. Clever.
  17. jbshan
    It's somewhat of a slow process, could have measured as they went, or just measure and divide by 20 or however many. Check your numbers as the gap gets narrower.
  18. jbshan
    I put mine under the rail, FWIW.
  19. jbshan
    Umm...., er... Too late for Scott, Mike and for me, I found more examples of tapered than straight in an unscientific survey I did. Everything was sawed by hand, no more work to follow a taper than a straight, the boards came out of tapered trees, longer thicker edge to fasten and plank at the deck edge, I guess.
  20. jbshan
    Yes, Mike. The angle of the chain should follow the shroud, so you have a straight pull. A mockup mast needn't be complicated, of course. I made a couple extra notches in the channel edges (later to be covered by the edge board) and used pins to give something more than just glue holding things to the hull. This whole structure should be somewhat like the bridge of a violin, with the channels having mostly inward tension on them, not up or down, but you could use brackets below the channels to help with some additional support. The brackets might be supposed to be there, check the plans.
  21. jbshan
    The different hobby houses have wire. Bass pro shops would have fishing tackle wire. All you need is a drill to make wire into rope, it doesn't need the same torsion control as fiber rope. Do please try to do a neater job on the whipping of the ends than the original builder. Any picture wire I've worked with turns gray and nasty looking, plus I think it is a weave instead of a twist. Your repaint scheme sounds as if it should work. You also have, mostly, a damaged side and an undamaged side for comparison. I've seen some where both sides are 'gone' which must make it tougher to restore.
  22. jbshan
    I wonder if actual pine tar and turps might be of use.
  23. jbshan
    Obviously, as I have said to Chuck, a painter doesn't have to precisely match colors (usually), but building a model, a lengthy period of time may go by between you painting two ultimately adjoining pieces, and it is far better if you can find a jar or tube straight from a maker's line that you like. This is what Chuck is trying to do. Now he merely needs Mr. Peabody's help to go back, paint jars in hand, and match to the original.
  24. jbshan
    HSS stands for High Speed Steel and is kind of a standard for normal metal working. You can go up a step to cobalt if the work is harder.
  25. jbshan
    A bit brace for drilling, perhaps merely a bit with small handle for fine stuff. If you have a stiff wire you can drill with it. Maybe a spoon type bit. Sharkskin for sandpaper, for one. I think you're right about fine cabinetmakers.

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