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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    Roughly, yes. It's been through the camera, to my computer, through the internet and now your computer and your monitor, but yes. That's why I try to use a description you can find an example of instead of relying on the picture. Another way is to use Crayolas, because you can buy a box and use that for a color match.
  2. jbshan
    Mike, you could use the Constitution (from your Niagara thread) photos for a painting guide for the gun carriages. Sometimes they're red, sometimes yellow ochre/buff. Painted wood work, black iron work, my take.
  3. jbshan
    A larger work table may be in order, for keeping away from the edge of.
  4. jbshan
    I used a couple of Lil Pins, in one of the parts bags, to reinforce the stern davits to the rail. They're in a good place to get bumped. After they're in, just paint the heads black.
  5. jbshan
    Coils look really good, Darrell.
  6. jbshan
    Good examples, Dave, thanks. Treenails have always seemed to me to be an example of doing a thing because you can, but if they are out of scale or, on hull planking, only used where the kit bulkheads happen to come instead of every foot or two, they're done mostly for the 'coo factor' ('coo, woodja look a' that'). Look at Chuck's work or TFFM series by David Antscherl for properly done, subtle work.
  7. jbshan
    I've found several images showing a couple of chains (?) between the forward fairlead and jack staff leading down and a bit aft, both anchored and underway. They may have intended to hook up the paravane, use it, then, upon recovery, restow the chain. I still don't think they would have let her anywhere near enemy-mined waters, at least without an escort more suitable for that work.
  8. jbshan
    Cool photos, Darrell. The farmer on whose land this transpired, Wilmer McLean (thanks, Yahoo Search) decided he didn't like the neighborhood and moved to a nice quiet spot at Appomattox Court House.
  9. jbshan
    Keep in mind what you are seeing is not trunnels but rather wooden plugs covering either nail or screw heads. On the quarterdeck, supposedly, instead of a plug with wedge (as you can see in some of the pics) they would use a diamond shape with the grain running parallel with the grain of the plank. I doubt you could see those, to scale. I would say any of these would be max of 3/4" so be very careful of scale. I have read of these being done with broom straws which are pretty small, but between 1" and 2" in 1:64 scale. I've been working on a 1/2" scale model and have had good luck using the tip of a drafting pencil to make a deep mark. This model I don't think had plugs, just the bare nails, but you can judge the appearance for yourself.
  10. jbshan
    Perhaps this was something they provided for, but never actually used. I can't imagine letting one of these get anywhere near anyplace they even suspected had mines. Likewise, some had submerged torpedo tubes. Torpedo range, 5 miles. Main armament range 15 + miles. They'd be more likely to hit one of their own. Looking forward to more progress pics. This is a type of vessel and model I'm not likely to be involved with, so I'm participating vicariously.
  11. jbshan
    I saw years ago a reference to life lines being kept on top of the quarter galleries. These included a length of line and a life ring. I wonder if these might be a similar thing, stuffed into a bag.
  12. jbshan
    Going back a little, I'm wondering how they worked the paravanes from that fitting low on the bow. Were there chains or cables permanently affixed? I can't imagine sending even a seaman apprentice (from another thread) down to hook things up when required.
  13. jbshan
    Tackle would be used to keep the gun tight to the bulwark. Mike's frapping would be involved. Chocks under the wheels would also keep it from coming loose. There are some illustrations in the literature.
  14. jbshan
    Bob, try some thin wire and twist it up in a drill, like an egg beater drill so it goes slow. Jud, it is the Seaman Apprentices that fish out easily and drip dry well, yes? :-)
  15. jbshan
    Mike, some people make up a coil off the model, then place it on deck with the fall of the tackle disappearing under the coil, as if it were all one line. If frapping works for you, frap away, it looks good, too.
  16. jbshan
    There might even be less inhaul tackles than guns. They would share with each other. Considering a 'gun crew of 10' might serve two guns (P&S), each needing 7, those two guns might share one inhaul tackle, though I haven't seen this anywhere in print. They would be needed only to withdraw the weapon upon first loading. Once fired, the weapon would recoil into loading position.
  17. jbshan
    I put the ringbolts in the deck, but didn't rig inhaul tackles.
  18. jbshan
    That's the type of burr I was thinking of, Mike. Use it like a countersink, just to knock the roughness off. That'll help with whatever else you do around the hole, too.
  19. jbshan
    Careful, Mike. It may be addictive. Yes, if you cut a cylinder on an angle, you get an oval hole. Here you have compound angles. Make 'em long and trim to fit. Mine look a little rough, too. I probably would try to chamfer the edges with a bit or other grinding thingy turned backwards in my pinvise. Just be careful about it grabbing the paint and pulling.
  20. jbshan
    The inboard end of the anchor cable goes through a hole in the corner of a hatch and is coiled in the cable tier. The end is belayed to the foot of the foremast so it doesn't run out.
  21. jbshan
    The tube may be your charlie noble. I just drilled holes. As I'm going to leave cables in, you won't be able to see whether it's lined or not, and who's to say they were lined originally, anyway.
  22. jbshan
    Frankie posted a link to the whole.
  23. jbshan
    We are seeing into the shadow next to the far bulwarks, so bring the shade up several notches. Could well be clean white decks, just in the shadow, in fact, a close look makes this just about the same as the shadow on the boat's hull and the ship's side.
  24. jbshan
    I used a smaller drill and pin vise and off set it to be on the center of the hole, not, for example, on the waterway or the bolster outboard. Drill partway from each side, using the plans for a rough angle, then when the holes meet, go up in size and adjust the angles to meet. If you can get a set of reamers, sort of hand-powered square drill bits, you can finish up with those and avoid tearing the wood. Hawse holes were sometimes lined with sheet lead, made into a tube and extra left on the ends which was then slit and the ends folded back and nailed. This is to protect from chafing and water getting inside the planking. Think of lead flashing used on a roof, around a chimney or dormer.
  25. jbshan
    And the corollary to Mike's post: With a thicker deck watch out for the clearance for the carronade barrels. Put one together and check that the ports are high enough.

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