jbshan

Nice and neat, Darrell.  If you're not a plastic surgeon you must be a weaver.

FOREMAST MAIN STAY AND PREVENTER STAY
 
I served .045 rope for the main and .035 rope for the preventer stays.
 
I then measured them for length, and clamped in a closed heart.  I purchased 7mm closed hearts from Chuck and Syren. Great product again. After some assembly, I gave them a coat of cherry stain and finished with tung oil.
 
I was able to position my portable vice with a spring clamp close enough to insert the heart for lashing. The heavy served stay ropes were pretty stiff, so the whipping was a bit challenging. I weaved a section of .018 tan rope for the lanyard.
 
Once done, I threaded the lanyard and tied it off on the upper lashing of the heart. It turned out pretty good.

Are these funnels for ventilation, for letting the smoke out perhaps?

Are these funnels for ventilation, for letting the smoke out perhaps?

Are these funnels for ventilation, for letting the smoke out perhaps?

A lot of what we do is to simulate things we know should be a particular way, but it's just too darn small.

At least as good as you are going to get at 1:64 . Have you seen how they do a real eye splice?  Not even going there.

Mike, there are any number of ways to space the deadeyes.  You have found one that I haven't seen before. 

Mike, there are any number of ways to space the deadeyes.  You have found one that I haven't seen before. 

Mike, there are any number of ways to space the deadeyes.  You have found one that I haven't seen before. 

First off make sure you're sitting down    You know it's funny how something that works for me may suck for you. Materials, techniques, whatever.  I realized that I was putting off rigging because I had no idea how I was going to hold multiple ropes, thread on a block or deadeye, tie a knot all at the same time. Especially with these fat fingers. And I thought I had a reasonable amount of dexterity.
 
I've been thru tutorials, build logs and the like but never found something that seemed right for me. I finally came across Ed Tosti's Victory build and the lightbulb went off when I saw his rigging chapter. At least for some of the standing rigging. I'm going to repeat some of it here as I am sure to lose the link.
 
So I started out with scrap of sheet 1/32 thick.
 

 
This is basswood and it began to crack after use. Next channel I will either go to 1/16 or use boxwood.
 
Drill some holes right at the bottom. Stick some wire thru those to help fasten the piece to the channel
 

 
Draw a line parallel to the channel. Looks crooked I know but actually it's the scrap. It's not a rectangle.
 

 
Wrap some rope around the mast head, take the other end and hold it on a deadeye in the channel. Mark where the rope crosses the line on the scrap.
 

 
This is where the upper deadeyes will go.
 

 
Drill a couple of holes at each intersection
 

 
Stick some wire in the holes similar to earlier. Slide a deadeye on the wire. Life just got a lot easier.
 

 
Take the rope to be used for your shrouds. Serve the middle 2 1/2 - 3 inches (the first shroud is completely served and one end is a Burton Pendant). Loop the middle around the mast head - this assumes you have not glued all the mast spars yet. Leaving an adequate sized loop, lash the rope. Hang rope around the mast head. Tighten one end and wrap around the next deadeye.
 

 
Remove the rope from the mast. Use alligator clips to keep the loop
 

 
There are any number of ways to seize the deadeye and the rope end. I used my serving machine. After all, the seizing is just serving 2 pieces of rope instead of 1. Here's a few back on the mast.
 

 

 
And OMG he has some rigging!
 
 
 

Early days, Mike.  You'll work it out, then you can make your labels more permanent.  I don't have depth enough for drawers so have a couple of these.
 

A further thought:
Assuming the units are modular, you could have some drawers for 'rigging' or 'wood work', then move those drawers closer in reach when you're doing those types of jobs.

Mike, I had a chest of drawers at work that I decided needed labels.  I got some 'decorator' tape, electrical tape in colors, and wrote labels on the tape.  Red was for fractional, yellow was for metric, white for universal, then 'sockets, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2"', pliers, or "wrenches" on red, "wrenches" on yellow, you get the picture.  If something didn't work out, the tape could be changed.  In your case, if the drawer fronts are paper, you could write on the paper, then cover up with the tape and write the new designation.  I highly recommend labeling, there are too many drawers there not to have some sort of storage system.

Well, those are 32 pdrs., the same size ball as on Victory's lower deck guns.  Guess not even the strip planking and epoxy stood up well to the proof test on the guns.

Just a teaser to show I have been working on my project. It's far from being done and there are a lot of temp pins holding things together. Once I have all the parts made than I will do the final assembly.

Now you have me feeling like a gearhead. Can't finish a build, but the workbench looks cool

Early days, Mike.  You'll work it out, then you can make your labels more permanent.  I don't have depth enough for drawers so have a couple of these.
 

A further thought:
Assuming the units are modular, you could have some drawers for 'rigging' or 'wood work', then move those drawers closer in reach when you're doing those types of jobs.

Stripped the old paint off nicely, you said?  It freak-n GLEAMS.  Well done.

Mike, I had a chest of drawers at work that I decided needed labels.  I got some 'decorator' tape, electrical tape in colors, and wrote labels on the tape.  Red was for fractional, yellow was for metric, white for universal, then 'sockets, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2"', pliers, or "wrenches" on red, "wrenches" on yellow, you get the picture.  If something didn't work out, the tape could be changed.  In your case, if the drawer fronts are paper, you could write on the paper, then cover up with the tape and write the new designation.  I highly recommend labeling, there are too many drawers there not to have some sort of storage system.

QUIET!!!!!!!!!! I'm hunting rabets, i mean rabbits, I mean rebates, NO NO NO, I mean wabbits!

Very kewl little boats.  Cabin, canopy, gasoline, steam?  Tea service or wet bar?  All of the above?

I use Elmer's white glue, but whatever you use, the glue needs to soak in to both surfaces for a good bond.  Any sealer between layers of plank might interfere with that.

Well, those are 32 pdrs., the same size ball as on Victory's lower deck guns.  Guess not even the strip planking and epoxy stood up well to the proof test on the guns.